I got the big one from the estate and a boxed WOA. I don't know the reason for the red paint. It is on the larger blocks and my understanding is these were for the French Market. Why I don't know. It was done on both the WOA and the TOS, but for a specific market so unless it was for protection of water damage only on large thick cut blocks and those were only for the French market. It seems odd.
Paper Towel Challenge
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Interesting. I just assumed it was for protection because my WOA is full of fissures and the sealed red sides were for that reason like jnats with cashew lacquer.
No the normal boxed labeled ones don’t have it. Plus there are a ton of rocks big and small sitting in those buildings. Most don’t have the paint. Some have obvious water stains yet sat for many years with no damage issues. I am guessing they were not heated either in the winter. Just a guess though.
Gotcha, I won't seal my WOA then.
If it has the paper label they are easily removed with steam.
This is off a JNS 800 after the JNS 300. Only stropping was to cut through a paper towel folded many times and then strop on the JNS 800
You can get really good edges on coarse stones
You can get really good edges on coarse stones
Just once I’d like to try a knife that sharp
What is the apperatus in the corner holding the stones down?
Just here to tell you to not give up hope. I’m 4-6 years into casual sharpening and 2 years into collecting knives and stones. A few suggestions below if you’re at the beginning stages of sharpening
1. Keep it simple at the beginning on equipment. You need a 200-500 grit stone for repairs, a 800-1000 grit stone as your workhorse and a 2000-6000 stone to bring final touches to the edge
2. Learn what a burr feels like and challenge yourself to get an even and consistent burr down the entire length of a blade
3. Somewhat controversial but I try to deburr after every stone. I usually do 10-16 edge leading strokes (alternating sides) and then 10-16 edge trailing strokes. Especially on my beginning stones (400,1000), I’ll also deburr by cutting through a paper towel folded up many times. Some people do light passes through cork too
4. If you aren’t sharp at 400-600 grit, it’s not gonna get any better as you go up. A 10,000 grit stone isn’t going to save you from mistakes on a 400 stone. Similarly, a $1k Jiro isn’t going to eliminate the problems you have sharpening a Victorinox
5. I was the best I’ve ever been at sharpening when I ran a sharpening side hustle for a month and was working on knives every night for 2-5 hours. What I mean by this is that you’ll get better the more that you practice.
Thank you! All sage advice @NickMinton
I believe it's just a towel.
Well I get my first stones next week and my benchmark is a knife that cut paper towel (but not as cleanly as @NickMinton ) out of the box. I enjoy refining new skills and listening to audiobooks, so this should be a good way to unwind from time to time.
Perhaps I will check back in re the Paper Towel Challenge in 2025…
Tow-well?! Some new technology? Is it a new material developed in silicone valley or Japan or something?
That's between @Kippington and his bird friend.Tow-well?! Some new technology? Is it a new material developed in silicone valley or Japan or something?
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All excellent suggestions. But sharpening for 5 hours doesn't work for me. When giving a full sharpening to three knives, the first one is OK. The second one brilliant. With the third one, halfway I decide to go back to the first stone and will finish it the next day.
Jville
I used to work in a Mexican restaurant
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Video or it never happened
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If it happens to be a carbon one, it deserves a high polish. Don't understand why Bernal suggests stopping at 1k.
The higher the polish the more protection against rust too, right?
It's a stainless steel sabatier, I find a high polish won't last on this particular knife. My 1950s carbon nogent takes an incredible edge all the way upto 8-10k though edge retention suffers due to the softness.
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It's common to all stainless Sabs, I'm afraid. With the carbons, keeping them thin enough behind the edge and convexing the edge makes edge retention acceptable. I maintain them with a small piece of Belgian Blue.
Yep sure is, I like to use a big charnley forest with light slurry and sharpen in hand to do this exact same thing.
Belgium blue and coticule is on my list.
Ok I’ll play
Sharpened up my lobster splitter- unknown rusted garage sale find that I restored
400 cerax, 500 shapton glass, 1000 cerax, 2000 naniwa
This thing had no real edge so had to put new bevel on
The blade geometry is definitely on the robust side more Clydesdale than laser
Sharpened up my lobster splitter- unknown rusted garage sale find that I restored
400 cerax, 500 shapton glass, 1000 cerax, 2000 naniwa
This thing had no real edge so had to put new bevel on
The blade geometry is definitely on the robust side more Clydesdale than laser
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Very nice. Very nice.
I'm starting to think I'm the only one unable to do this haha.
Good job man
I only managed it the once with a very toothy coarse edge, I have noticed everyone is using much thicker towel then me aswell.
Mine will cut paper towel very very clean but will only cut maybe 3 inches down. It's either my edge or my technique when cutting haha
