Nanohone diamond resin?

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Kiru

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Hey guys,

Has anyone tried the diamond resin stone from nanohone?

Specifically the 100 micron one, looking to get some long lasting sub 200 grit stone to get things done quickly with less mess, out of the stones I've tried at that range the SP120 is my favourite just because it's fairly neat although I have to get it resurface with SiC powder once every 5 minutes.
 
One of my old coworkers had the 10 and 25 micron stones. I wasn't a big fan. The resin is weirdly slippery/muted compared to normal synthetic stones and doesn't have much feedback. I'm sure my technique would have adjusted with time, but I much prefer diamond stones and for hard working coarse grits, most any vitrified diamond. I also used a nanohone strop for a while on my butchery knives. I think it worked fine touching up edges on small knives, but it was very narrow and again, weirdly slippery. I'm not saying they don't work, but the resin medium is unusual and would caution me to say try before you buy.
 
tgfencer said:
One of my old coworkers had the 10 and 25 micron stones. I wasn't a big fan. The resin is weirdly slippery/muted compared to normal synthetic stones and doesn't have much feedback. I'm sure my technique would have adjusted with time, but I much prefer diamond stones and for hard working coarse grits, most any vitrified diamond. I also used a nanohone strop for a while on my butchery knives. I think it worked fine touching up edges on small knives, but it was very narrow and again, weirdly slippery. I'm not saying they don't work, but the resin medium is unusual and would caution me to say try before you buy.
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Hey man, thanks for your input

The only issue I found with diamond stones(vitrified diamond) is the main ones are quite fine in grit, the coarsest I’ve seen is from JKI’s 300(not sure if I want to drop $500 for that either), that being said, I have just purchased a NSK 400 from Japan hopefully it does well but I don’t expect it to do coarse work (push shinogi/fixing SB knives).

Of course, the grit rating could mean nothing, if they are that quick but I wouldn’t know because I’ve never tried one yet

I watched hap Stanley’s video and the scratch pattern seems very diamond plate like and very even, I’m just unsure whether if I would like the feedback and the sharpening feel, they seem slippery
 
If the JKI 300 is anything like the 400grit vitrified Triple B stone I have it's going to be very fast for 95% of coarse knife work, barring things you'd normally want to do with a grinder. Of course, Jon could give better insight if you let him know what you would use it for.

There are also Venev diamond stones. Never used them, but they're quite affordable and have a full range of grits. Other folks might have better insight into longevity and feedback on those.

Bit of diamond chat can be found here: Diamond stone survey high alloy steels
 
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daveb said:
I'm currently using the 100 for bevel setting, other coarse work. Very effective, better scratch pattern than SG120, or 220 stones. Avail from our newest vendor, Tokushu.
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Thanks mate, how do you find it?
Does it feel as slick as it looks in videos? I found the scratch pattern quite appealing but unsure about the speed for thinning, I will most likely use the stone for Sb repair or first step of bevel polishing/low spot removal.
The SP 120 to me is at okay speed but need lots of resurfacing and if the nanohone is quicker and need less of maintenance than the SP120 I would say it's quite good, just can't quite imagine how to flatten the plate if you need to, I assume SiC powder plus glass would do the job just fine?
 
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Appreciate others recommending my post on this :) yeah I’ve tried pretty much all the Diamond stuff, plates, resin, vitrified etc…

I have a decent sized set of the Nanohone Diamond resin stones, I agree with others that they feel a bit weird to me on edges but they are amazing for bevel thinning and flattening, removing scratches etc…

The 100u leaves way finer scratches than you would expect and it’s so much cleaner/easier than something like a Shapton 120 or pink brick. No need to really flatten either which is a god send with super coarse stuff when you are removing a lot of metal. Wish I had them before I turned my old TF petty from battle axe to laser, would have saved me a lot of time and hassle.

Edges they are a bit weird for me but bevels they are amazing
 
It's worth noting also that the weak link with these currently is finding the right lapping tool for maintaining the surface. I just spoke with Hap about these (I was looking at the 100 micron) and asked about the best means of lapping/cleaning them. He said the NL-4 is not quite large enough abrasive plate to actually work well with the 100 or 200 micron stones, it may be good enough for the higher grit ones though as he lists this on the website as being the right plate. I mentioned to him that Lee Valley sells these 36 grit diamond wheel truing tools which I thought might work well as a nagura type object. You'd have to still flatten them at some point in the distant future but this should keep them cutting never the less.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho.../55075-diamond-bar-wheel-dresser?item=70M5003
As a side note, I ended up getting the 250 micron Surf Stone that Hap produces as according to him these absolutely eat steel and last for a very long time. He said to expect a finish like a 36 grit, it's very coarse and this is for pure shaping purposes to get convex edges shaped quickly after coming off my Tormek grinder.

https://nanohone.com/products/surf-stone-diamond-sheet-with-backing-plate?variant=28179580026960
 
The_Real_Self said:
It's worth noting also that the weak link with these currently is finding the right lapping tool for maintaining the surface. I just spoke with Hap about these (I was looking at the 100 micron) and asked about the best means of lapping/cleaning them. He said the NL-4 is not quite large enough abrasive plate to actually work well with the 100 or 200 micron stones, it may be good enough for the higher grit ones though as he lists this on the website as being the right plate. I mentioned to him that Lee Valley sells these 36 grit diamond wheel truing tools which I thought might work well as a nagura type object. You'd have to still flatten them at some point in the distant future but this should keep them cutting never the less.

https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/sho.../55075-diamond-bar-wheel-dresser?item=70M5003
As a side note, I ended up getting the 250 micron Surf Stone that Hap produces as according to him these absolutely eat steel and last for a very long time. He said to expect a finish like a 36 grit, it's very coarse and this is for pure shaping purposes to get convex edges shaped quickly after coming off my Tormek grinder.

https://nanohone.com/products/surf-stone-diamond-sheet-with-backing-plate?variant=28179580026960
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While Hap recommends using a diamond lapping plate, I don't recommend it. Most other resin stones are lapped with loose SiC or AlOx, so I was originally skeptical of that remark when I picked one of these up. At that time, I had been conversing with another avid knifemaker and sharpener who also expressed some concern of the diamond-on-diamond action becoming a problem.

Very early after the diamond resin stones were released I bought one (the 25micron) and experimented with it for a while. It had noticeably worse performance when lapped on diamond rather than on SiC. That being said, the difference was really only noticeable on high wear resistant steels. Low alloy steels didn't see much difference.

This is just my experience with them, and I haven't heard anyone else make this exact remark, so don't take my word as complete fact.
 
I’m going to try the DR 200 micron

He explains that the plate loads up, it doesn’t glaze, so Sic would make more sense in that case

The NL4 is just to keep it flat
 
Have you or anyone tried the 1 micron Diamond resin?

SolidSnake03 said:
Appreciate others recommending my post on this :) yeah I’ve tried pretty much all the Diamond stuff, plates, resin, vitrified etc…

I have a decent sized set of the Nanohone Diamond resin stones, I agree with others that they feel a bit weird to me on edges but they are amazing for bevel thinning and flattening, removing scratches etc…

The 100u leaves way finer scratches than you would expect and it’s so much cleaner/easier than something like a Shapton 120 or pink brick. No need to really flatten either which is a god send with super coarse stuff when you are removing a lot of metal. Wish I had them before I turned my old TF petty from battle axe to laser, would have saved me a lot of time and hassle.

Edges they are a bit weird for me but bevels they are amazing
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EricEricEric said:
Have you or anyone tried the 1 micron Diamond resin?
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Yup I’ve tried it. Outstanding polish, @ethompson can say more or speak to it too but very impressive. It’s surprising what stones you can come from using it if you don’t need perfection in your polish. I had no problem removing 3k and up scratches . Also really nice for gentle deburring strokes
 
EricEricEric said:
Thank you for your help

I was curious if it leaves visible scratches on steel or iron, or if it just leaves a very clear finish.

This would be for aesthetic polishing only.
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Visible but very fine, cuts both equally. I found the finer resin plates to pull out diamond on clad sometimes causing rouge scratches. Wouldn’t recommend above 25u for polishing, I think diamond vits or traditional synths are the way to go for polishing prep above 1k
 
Question for @SolidSnake03

Have you tried the 3 micron DR?

I am looking for something to use on kitchen knives that works like a strop to quickly bring back the bite after use. I don't really care about polish, so I think the 1 mic would be too fine, and I currently have the 10 micron inbound. I was just wondering if the 3 micron would be useful for what I'm looking for?

Thanks!
 
Dakota Day Trader said:
Question for @SolidSnake03

Have you tried the 3 micron DR?

I am looking for something to use on kitchen knives that works like a strop to quickly bring back the bite after use. I don't really care about polish, so I think the 1 mic would be too fine, and I currently have the 10 micron inbound. I was just wondering if the 3 micron would be useful for what I'm looking for?

Thanks!
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So I have tried all of these and they do make a nice strop in my mind for refreshing edges. That said I like my edges toothy and if I’m stropping I want that tooth back so I personally would just use the 10 micron. These seem to finish above their stated micron so honestly 10 micron is a good stopping point unless you really want a fine edge but then I wouldn’t be stropping?

That’s my 2c on it :)
 
SolidSnake03 said:
So I have tried all of these and they do make a nice strop in my mind for refreshing edges. That said I like my edges toothy and if I’m stropping I want that tooth back so I personally would just use the 10 micron. These seem to finish above their stated micron so honestly 10 micron is a good stopping point unless you really want a fine edge but then I wouldn’t be stropping?

That’s my 2c on it :)
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I was hoping you would say that, and thanks for the super quick reply.

I decided to pick up the 10, 25, and 100 micron stones so I could try out the set. My plan is to use them like this:

10 mic. - General stropping/maintenance and finishing stone.

25 mic. - Light sharpening

100 mic. - Thinning and bevel resetting.

I’ll still use an extra course DMT for chip repair and major damage, but once the heavy lifting has been done, I want to go to a full set of the Nano Resin to bring up and maintain the edge.

I’ve been looking for a quick and cleaner way to do kitchen knives (especially with the holidays coming) for a while, so I’m pretty excited to see if these fit the bill!

Thanks again for the help!
 
Happy to help on that. I would suggest the 200 micron to faster metal remove if it’s some heavy thinning just as an fyi.
 
2 quick questions for @ethompson please:

I’m getting the 10, 25, and 100 plates mainly for sharpening the cheap stainless knives of friends/family/in-laws when we eat there.

With that in mind, would you go from the 100 directly to the 10, or would you use the 25 in between them?

Also, would it be worth getting the 1 micron plate (strictly for stropping/final burr removal) if I don’t care about the polished look, or would there be no need to go that fine on the cheap stainless kitchen knives?
Thanks!
 
He just soft released the new resin plates, I’m receiving one this week 200 µm again.

The diamonds are round again and the surface is even harder than before and the plates are even flatter than before

Also, bought all of the surf stones
 
Mr.Wizard said:
Update?
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Sorry for the delay. I've tried all 3 of them and my results can best be described as... underwhelmed.

I think it's due to my sharpening technique. I sharpen like Bob Kramer, where I do edge leading. I tried that on these but I didn't like the feel (or results) at all. I switched to edge trailing (like a traditional sharpener) and it worked better for the stones, but worse for me since I'm not used to doing it that way and don't really want to develop that technique.

In the end, they are good stones with the right technique. I'll probably use them as just light touch up stones or a hone/strop finishing stone, but for *actual* sharpening, I'm grabbing something else all day long.
 
ReiHamono said:
He just soft released the new resin plates, I’m receiving one this week 200 µm again.

The diamonds are round again and the surface is even harder than before and the plates are even flatter than before

Also, bought all of the surf stones
Click to expand...

Are these the black "Diamond Resin" ones on his facebook page? I'd love to hear how those work. I think they would be better for the way I sharpen, but will wait to get some feedback before I buy anything else.
 
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