Does anyone know where to get AlOx sheets and fine (>3000) sheets in Australia?
Try: https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au - they have up to 12k. Also, your friendly neighbourhood panel beater can usually provide at least 3k.Does anyone know where to get AlOx sheets and fine (>3000) sheets in Australia?
Sorry - it was a rushed response. Anything above 3k is indeed micromesh. Missed your AlOx request totally.At the sandpaperman, are you talking about the micromesh for the higher grits or did I miss another line of sandpaper?
Also, I couldn't see any AlOx sandpaper there apart from the (relitavely expensive) micromesh or the (also expensive) adhesive backed lapping film.
Are you saying that you use the holder without the supplied silicone? Does using the silicone make the sandpaper too soft and hence rolls (or rounds) the edge? Would appreciate your thoughts.Marek, I've been messing around with it quite a bit. One significant advantage with this paper holder is that you can get the surface extremely flat and extremely tight. Silicone that's provided his only left me with someone rolled edges
My understanding is that the silicone is to allow some "give" in the sharpening surface, a bit like the mousepad trick for convexed edges. I assume that without the silicone, it would give a more linear edge.Are you saying that you use the holder without the supplied silicone? Does using the silicone make the sandpaper too soft and hence rolls (or rounds) the edge? Would appreciate your thoughts.
My understanding is that the silicone is to allow some "give" in the sharpening surface, a bit like the mousepad trick for convexed edges. I assume that without the silicone, it would give a more linear edge.
I haven't done the mousepad trick but I have read that it takes a bit of practice to get the convexing just right. The amount of convexing depends on the "give" in the medium and the force that you use to push the blade.
The problem that I can forsee with this is that as you progress in your sharpening, you tend to press with less force as you refine your edge. This will cause a shallower convex, so you might not actually reach the edge as you try to refine the edge. I wonder whether the mousepad trick might be better used to convex behind the edge but sharpening the very edge with a microbevel?
Thanks for that feedback.I used the silicone for the first time this weekend, Id say the immediate feedback for me was the difference between a soft muddy stone and a hard stone, the finish was a little more even as it contoured to the bevel better.
... Anyone want to suggest a sandpaper progression? ....
So, I have a cleaver which I'd like to thin a bit. I think this is perfect for the task. Anyone want to suggest a sandpaper progression? My first thinning attempt so I completely own the fact that I don't know what the heck I'm doing.
What sort of grit are you talking, Mucho?With all the talk about stropping materials, I'm going to bump this thread. I still think the Kasfly is the king of strops. I suppose you could use felt or leather with it too but it really excels with polishing papers.
I'm 95% sure I'm going to buy this device. Two questions about other possible uses:
1. Could this be used as a stone flattener with either drywall screen and or sandpaper? (if so what would you recommend). Essentially rubbing your stones directly on this to flatten?
2. Would a peice of leather fit in this to be used as a strop? Or would leather not bend properly to clamp in.
Very interested and appreciate your thoughts.
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