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volta87

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This is my first 240 Gyuto. I own a custom O1 170, but it’s too small for many tasks.

I’m torn between these

Yoshikane 240mm #White 2 (£300)

Konosuke Limited Edition SKD (£550)

Hitohira Togashi Blue #2 Kurouchi Gyuto 240mm Cherry W (£400)

Isamitsu White #1 Stainless Clad Kurouchi Gyuto (£575)

Or break the bank with this

Isamitsu Aogami Super (£775)

Im wanting a really special blade, but at the same time, i appreciate diminishing returns. So id want to rule out the cheaper ones IF the quality will lack compared to the pricier ones.

Thanks in advance
 
Yoshikane w2 or even better skd non in the limited edition for pure performance. Flatter profile and narrower than the other blades you have mentioned, keep this in mind.
volta87 said:
This is my first 240 Gyuto. I own a custom O1 170, but it’s too small for many tasks.

I’m torn between these

Yoshikane 240mm #White 2 (£300)

Konosuke Limited Edition SKD (£550)

Hitohira Togashi Blue #2 Kurouchi Gyuto 240mm Cherry W (£400)

Isamitsu White #1 Stainless Clad Kurouchi Gyuto (£575)

Or break the bank with this

Isamitsu Aogami Super (£775)

Im wanting a really special blade, but at the same time, i appreciate diminishing returns. So id want to rule out the cheaper ones IF the quality will lack compared to the pricier ones.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
 
plantgainz said:
Yoshikane w2 or even better skd non in the limited edition for pure performance. Flatter profile and narrower than the other blades you have mentioned, keep this in mind.
Click to expand...

Hey

So you think the £550/700 ones are essentialy a waste of money in terms of having a better tool for the task needed?
 
I agree with the above comments. Also, you will probably become addicted and buy many more knives. No need to buy the more expensive ones now, you’ll do that plenty when you know better what you want 😁

FWIW - I have the SKD Yoshi k-tip and it’s fantastic, I highly recommend. I’ve not handled the others so can’t speak on them.
 
+1 on yoshi skd. Many many knives later and it still has a place right on the block because first I can set it down for extended periods without worrying about it, and second the performance is just phenomenal for the price. Great knife to introduce you to ghosting through ingredients
 
volta87 said:
This is my first 240 Gyuto. I own a custom O1 170, but it’s too small for many tasks.

I’m torn between these

Yoshikane 240mm #White 2 (£300)

Konosuke Limited Edition SKD (£550)

Hitohira Togashi Blue #2 Kurouchi Gyuto 240mm Cherry W (£400)

Isamitsu White #1 Stainless Clad Kurouchi Gyuto (£575)

Or break the bank with this

Isamitsu Aogami Super (£775)

Im wanting a really special blade, but at the same time, i appreciate diminishing returns. So id want to rule out the cheaper ones IF the quality will lack compared to the pricier ones.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
I have a Yoshikane 240 gyuto in w2, and it is an exceptional knife.
 
Simply said:
+1 on yoshi skd. Many many knives later and it still has a place right on the block because first I can set it down for extended periods without worrying about it, and second the performance is just phenomenal for the price. Great knife to introduce you to ghosting through ingredients
Click to expand...
Another +1 for Yoshikane SKD for the same reasons stated here.
 
Some of these are quite different from the others. Beyond a certain price level it's not so much about 'which one is better' but 'which one aligns more with my preferences'. So to ask other people what they prefer is a bit like asking others to recommend you a flavor of ice cream or pizza topping.

I for one sold my Yoshikane SKD because it never really jived with me. That doesn't mean it's a bad knife, it just didn't work for me.
 
volta87 said:
Hey

So you think the £550/700 ones are essentialy a waste of money in terms of having a better tool for the task needed?
Click to expand...
It depends on what you are looking for and added cost doesn't translate necessary in added performance. I highlighted the flat profile of the yoshikane because many users here don't like it for that reason, to me it's the perfect knife. I didn't add the very delicate edge aspect just because the other knives you listed can chip easily as well if you cut through hard stuff or twist them on board.
 
Johnsmyname said:
I agree with the above comments. Also, you will probably become addicted and buy many more knives. No need to buy the more expensive ones now, you’ll do that plenty when you know better what you want 😁

FWIW - I have the SKD Yoshi k-tip and it’s fantastic, I highly recommend. I’ve not handled the others so can’t speak on them.
Click to expand...

I’ve found little info on SKD steel on YouTube. What was your reasoning for getting this steel and not the more usual white, blue. vg10 etc?
 
Simply said:
+1 on yoshi skd. Many many knives later and it still has a place right on the block because first I can set it down for extended periods without worrying about it, and second the performance is just phenomenal for the price. Great knife to introduce you to ghosting through ingredients
Click to expand...


Why SKD and not White 2?

I’ve read SKD has a better retention and this would benefit me with the Gyuto being my workhorse.
 
Jovidah said:
Some of these are quite different from the others. Beyond a certain price level it's not so much about 'which one is better' but 'which one aligns more with my preferences'. So to ask other people what they prefer is a bit like asking others to recommend you a flavor of ice cream or pizza topping.

I for one sold my Yoshikane SKD because it never really jived with me. That doesn't mean it's a bad knife, it just didn't work for me.
Click to expand...

Didn’t work how? What did you get instead?
 
superworrier said:
The Kono limited should be the same as the Yoshi.

The choice is clear: Yoshi unless you rock chop. Togashi if you do.

Isamitsu is good, but maybe order direct instead. But for a first knife, I’d save the money.
Click to expand...
Direct, how?
 
superworrier said:
The Kono limited should be the same as the Yoshi.

The choice is clear: Yoshi unless you rock chop. Togashi if you do.

Isamitsu is good, but maybe order direct instead. But for a first knife, I’d save the money.
Click to expand...

I def rock chop. You can’t do this on the Yoshi? Why?
 
volta87 said:
SKD over white #2. If so, why?
Click to expand...
Significantly better edge retention, especially with acidic ingredients. A2 really hits a nice balance of retention, sharpenability, and low reactivity (while still taking some patina).

volta87 said:
I def rock chop. You can’t do this on the Yoshi? Why?
Click to expand...

You can but the profile is very flat, which makes it kind of "thunk" down in the back half, vs something more curved that will smoothly rock through the whole cutting edge.
 
I’m unfamiliar with O1 steel but looks like a tool steal, just to add… skd is basically a stainless while white 1 is a carbon steel that will patina and will rust if it’s mistreated. Sounds like carbons may be new for OP
 
volta87 said:
Why SKD and not White 2?

I’ve read SKD has a better retention and this would benefit me with the Gyuto being my workhorse.
Click to expand...
Plus coming from O1 to SKD means little change in your habits because white steel will rust real quick if left unattended. As much as I love traditional carbon steels we live in a time that has fare superior steels now.
 
I assume that the SKD steel is SKD11 steel. I have two GYUTO knives made from this steel, and I use them frequently.
Among the knives listed, I haven't used any of them. I can only recommend based on the material. My first choice would be SKD, and the second would be stainless-clad WHITE 1.

SKD11 steel, unlike stainless steel, is not as prone to slipping (such as VG10 and AUS8/AUS10). It retains sharpness very well. Although it may rust, as long as it's wiped dry after use, it's fine.

Compared to the materials of the other knives your listed, SKD11 is much more difficult to sharpen. I need a piece of cowhide treated with KOYO K-1 polishing wax to easily sharpen a SKD11 blade, allowing it to effortlessly cut through hair. For WHITE 1 steel, I can simply use my denim jeans for the final stropping.
My next choice is stainless-clad WHITE 1.

But I have many Sanmai knives made entirely of carbon steel. When I cut chili peppers or tomatoes, the soft iron part still tends to rust, which is very frustrating for me. So I recommend the stainless-clad steel ones.

White steel doesn't rust as easily, but the soft iron part is still prone to rusting.
white sanmai.jpg
 
bill_zeng said:
I assume that the SKD steel is SKD11 steel. I have two GYUTO knives made from this steel, and I use them frequently.
Among the knives listed, I haven't used any of them. I can only recommend based on the material. My first choice would be SKD, and the second would be stainless-clad WHITE 1.

SKD11 steel, unlike stainless steel, is not as prone to slipping (such as VG10 and AUS8/AUS10). It retains sharpness very well. Although it may rust, as long as it's wiped dry after use, it's fine.

Compared to the materials of the other knives your listed, SKD11 is much more difficult to sharpen. I need a piece of cowhide treated with KOYO K-1 polishing wax to easily sharpen a SKD11 blade, allowing it to effortlessly cut through hair. For WHITE 1 steel, I can simply use my denim jeans for the final stropping.
My next choice is stainless-clad WHITE 1.

But I have many Sanmai knives made entirely of carbon steel. When I cut chili peppers or tomatoes, the soft iron part still tends to rust, which is very frustrating for me. So I recommend the stainless-clad steel ones.

White steel doesn't rust as easily, but the soft iron part is still prone to rusting.
View attachment 316736
Click to expand...
Yoshikane SKD is SKD12 aka A2 tool steel, some other SKD/SLD are SKD11/D2 steel, SKD12 has much less chromium so less large chromiun carbide and a lot easier to sharpen than SKD11
 
blokey said:
Yoshikane SKD is SKD12 aka A2 tool steel, some other SKD/SLD are SKD11/D2 steel, SKD12 has much less chromium so less large chromiun carbide and a lot easier to sharpen than SKD11
Click to expand...

A2 is also a very good material.
Based on the composition, A2 should be much easier to sharpen than D2.
Regarding the issue of sharpening SKD11, I'm quite puzzled. Many materials, such as VG10, AUS10, 440C, 154CM, etc., which have higher chromium content than SKD11, do not have the same difficulty in sharpening as D2. They also have similar hardness levels. Especially when it comes to cleaning up the burr on the edge. But looking at the composition, SKD11 does not contain elements such as vanadium, tungsten, or cobalt.
 
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