Need Kasumi stone progression

[Logan A.]

I want to start by stating that I have no idea what I’m doing in regards to stones. I have a king 1000/6000 that I’ve used and learned on. I’m ready to move on and get into some kasumi/polishing action. Therefore I need some more serious stones.

I have made extensive efforts to find a single brand that fits my needs for a stone progression, but that doesn’t seem to be a common theme. I instead have gathered note of some of what I’ve read are good stones for Kasumi finish. The knives I am trying to achieve kasumi on are generally going to be iron clad carbon. Blue/white usually. Though I do have a 1.2519, and a stainless clad carbon.

The progression I was thinking would go
Morihei 500
(Suggestions for a 1K?)
Chosera 3000
Morihei 6000
Kitayama 8000

The questionsI’m asking is would this be a good progression for a kasumi finish? What suggestions would you have otherwise?
Again, I’m not very knowledgeable on stones, and reading threads on them still leaves me unsure. Any help or advise would be appreciated!
I would also like to note that atop the kasumi capability there would need to also be the ability for the stones to give a nice toothy edge. Thanks!

 

[nakiriknaifuwaifu]

I want to start by stating that I have no idea what I’m doing in regards to stones. I have a king 1000/6000 that I’ve used and learned on. I’m ready to move on and get into some kasumi/polishing action. Therefore I need some more serious stones.

I have made extensive efforts to find a single brand that fits my needs for a stone progression, but that doesn’t seem to be a common theme. I instead have gathered note of some of what I’ve read are good stones for Kasumi finish. The knives I am trying to achieve kasumi on are generally going to be iron clad carbon. Blue/white usually. Though I do have a 1.2519, and a stainless clad carbon.

The progression I was thinking would go
Morihei 500
(Suggestions for a 1K?)
Chosera 3000
Morihei 6000
Kitayama 8000

The questionsI’m asking is would this be a good progression for a kasumi finish? What suggestions would you have otherwise?
Again, I’m not very knowledgeable on stones, and reading threads on them still leaves me unsure. Any help or advise would be appreciated!
I would also like to note that atop the kasumi capability there would need to also be the ability for the stones to give a nice toothy edge. Thanks!

Is this list of stones what you're considering to buy or what you already have?
Also, do all of the stones need to give a toothy edge?

 

[Logan A.]

Considering! I only own a king 1000/6000. They don’t all need to give a toothy edge. Just the capability of having one with that set of stones.

 

[Logan A.]

I also want to note that if there is a single line/brand of stones that I can buy to achieve good results then I’d go with that. There’s no logical reason for me to want a single brand, but the desire is there.

 

[nakiriknaifuwaifu]

Other nice and muddy stones for kasumi are King 800, Suehiro 3k (grits aren't particularly even; gives easy contrast and a really nice edge); JNS Red Aoto Matsukuskusiuguisyama (spelling), gesshin Jinzo aoto

And if I may interest you in some naturally flavored kool aid, the natural progression that I liked best:

Tanba aoto (2k)
Takashima (4k)
Okudo Suita (6k+)
Then Suita or Aizu for edge

 

[Logan A.]

Other nice and muddy stones for kasumi are King 800, Suehiro 3k (grits aren't particularly even; gives easy contrast and a really nice edge); JNS Red Aoto Matsukuskusiuguisyama (spelling), gesshin Jinzo aoto

And if I may interest you in some naturally flavored kool aid, the natural progression that I liked best:

Tanba aoto (2k)
Takashima (4k)
Okudo Suita (6k+)
Then Suita or Aizu for edge

Thanks for the input!!! As much as I would love some naturally flavored cool aid; I don’t think my bank account feels the same way.

 

[user 16756]

Thanks for the input!!! As much as I would love some naturally flavored cool aid; I don’t think my bank account feels the same way.

some of the stones youve listed cost as much as a small tomae though.

 

[Cliff]

Have you tried with your current set up? It should work pretty well.

 

[applepieforbreakfast]

I'll second trying the stones you already have.
If you don't like the results, pick up the Ouka/Suehiro 3k to start. It's comparatively inexpensive, and leaves a nice, all-around edge too.

 

[user 16756]

Have you tried with your current set up? It should work pretty well.

a single king 1000/6000 is not really sufficient for a kasumi progression IMO.

mostly because you need lower grits.

 

[dafox]

I was in your position just a few months ago, for a one brand kasumi finish set I went with Suehiro cerax 320, 1000, 3000, 5000, reported to give a good kasumi finish, readily available, inexpensive.

 

[tostadas]

The king 800 is a good start to a progression. It's super soft and muddy and only costs about $20.

 

[Pie]

I’ll be honest, for a the longest time I thought some of my stones were crap in the polish progression, then I did other stuff for a few months, and now they seem decent at worst. Could be worth a revisit to your current stones. I definitely don’t do that many stones in the progression either, although that might be causing my unimpressive results. For what it’s worth, Naniwa pro mid grits might be also worth looking into, I find them easy to manage and agreeable to polishing. Just pricey.

also Hideriyama. All day.

 

[Logan A.]

Thanks for all the input guys! I’ll definitely revisit my current stones before jumping too much further into purchasing, but I’m definitely still interested in hearing all the options and thoughts everyone’s putting out there! It’s very helpful.

 

[Pie]

… but Hideriyama tho

 

[Logan A.]

… but Hideriyama tho

That is definitely in consideration!

 

[zizirex]

Morihei 500
King Hyper 1k/Arashiyama 1k/ New Kent 1k
Shapton Pro 2k/Suehiro Ouka 3k or Morihei 4k
Morihei Hi 6K
Kitayama 8k/Karasu 9K or Morihei 12K if you have budget.

Optional, Uchigumori for final contrast, but it won't work if you have a rough finish on your blade.

 

[Cliff]

If you're looking to add to your collection -- my King 800 is terrific -- I would look at Cerax 3K and/or Rika 5K. If you buy from JNS, the big, red 3K and 6K are both great. I'm less sold on the 800.

 

[cotedupy]

As above... King 800 and 1200 both superb, and I also like the Cerax 3k.

 

[Kawa]

I see you are still open to a 1k suggestion. Consider the Naniwa superstone 1000. Very soft and muddy and rather cheap. It gives a very hazy/dark result. Don't consider higher gritt superstones for kasumi, since they start to mirror polish from 2k and upwards (thats where this series shines)

I can also confirm that the kitayama 8k gives a toothy edge on carbons (blue2 and white2), while the appearance is shiny (as far as you can actually judge this, looking at the small edge alone). Very nice and usable edge for a usually ''to high gritt for a kitchen knife'' gritt stone. Haven't used the kitayama 8k on a knives finish, so can't tell you how polished/matte the finish would look on a bigger surface than the edge.

 

[Matus]

There are most likely multiple really options for the 1k stone. JNS 1k stones is really good. Shapton Pro 1k or Shapton Glass 1k - not so much.

 

[dafox]

I was in your position just a few months ago, for a one brand kasumi finish set I went with Suehiro cerax 320, 1000, 3000, 5000, reported to give a good kasumi finish, readily available, inexpensive.

Finished with a Kitayama 8000.

 

[WifeNotUnderstand]

I found this a while ago on IG

 

[Kawa]

I understand that pressure, amount of water and amount of mud alter the end result.

Can someone explain why a long or short stroke or a slow and fast stroke alter the end result aswell? Is it temperature?

 

[applepieforbreakfast]

I understand that pressure, amount of water and amount of mud alter the end result.

Can someone explain why a long or short stroke or a slow and fast stroke alter the end result aswell? Is it temperature?

My guess would be that short strokes would result in a more random scratch pattern.

 

[Pie]

I understand that pressure, amount of water and amount of mud alter the end result.

Can someone explain why a long or short stroke or a slow and fast stroke alter the end result aswell? Is it temperature?

I can’t imagine temperature being affected unless your long/fast stroke is crazy fast. I think it might be easier to manage the same small amount of mud with a short stroke. Also conditions vary across the face of the stone, so possibly shorter strokes provides more consistency?

 

[Cliff]

I found this a while ago on IG

Interesting that this advice is the opposite of Josh's, from Bernal. Josh says small, gentle strokes on dryish mud produce mirror on the core, rather than haziness. Am I missing something?

 

[Blank Blades.]

I was able to do this with the king 6000. It was a while back, before I joined this forum.

The point is. The stones can't do the work for you. With that said, some will make your life easier.


So what I recommend is getting a decent low grit for thinning 120. 320ish grit to remove those scratches. From their you can move up to 1000ish level stones. At this point I recommend you have one soft one, and one hard one. The hard one will show you any imperfections you still have on the bevel, the soft will smooth out any peaks you may have on the bevel.

Then go 3000, 8000 you can stop there, or go on to high grit naturals.

 

[Logan A.]

This is all great to know guys! I’m likely going to practice with my King 1000 and my “throw away” single bevel. If I got way the morihei 4000, then could I jump straight from any 1k to the 4K and effectively erase all the scratches? Or would I be better of going 2k->4K. Perhaps instead making the jump from 320/500 -> 2k instead of 1k.
Hope the way I wrote that makes sense!

 

[Cliff]

Either is fine, but you already have the 1K, and it should be a pretty good one.