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SOLD A2 or M2 Gyuto Batch

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Blank Blades.

Blank Blank.
KKF Supporting Craftsman
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Ok so I'm getting ready to get started on the batch of gyutos that was discussed a little while back I will post in the WIP thread also. I didn't know the best way to get the word out to find everyone that is still interested so I figured I would make a post here. Have whoever wanted one reach out.

I still think m2 is the better choice since In my opinion it has better banding and the properties are nice as well. similar to hap40. though if people want A2 I could do that instead. Or if I get a big enough group of people that want m2, and another that want A2 I can do a batch of each.

I can do Mokume and a dark wood like the one that I did in a2 that had a lot of people reaching out to buy. but I will need people to let me know what they want.

I need to start getting deposits now so I can get the materials I need to make them and get a count on the number of knives I am going to need to make.
 
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What's the price point going to look like?

As an aside, about to process a big batch of ancient redgum (wood I provided for the last batch), so if everyone likes the handle on the last one, will be happy to provide
 
I can do slightly varying specs depending on the person. I'll just need to write it down so I can keep track.

Price. I think $600 is probably about where final price will land with m2 give or take. I will need to get everything worked out with handle materials. Because buying this much redgum might add up lol. Though if I can't get enough of that, I can possible substitute African blackwood, and bog oak (both expensive also lol) and obviously I will have to make all the mokume.

I will need to buy a big sheet of m2 to get the specs most want. As far as spine thickness. Because it's just what is available.

So basically I will need to get deposits to get materials covered for these.
 
I will add. It looks like most are fine with m2. So that's good. Because if most weren't. I couldn't do it because of the size of the piece I need to buy for that steel
 
Hey guys, been talking with Mr. Blank as I supplied the redgum for his last batch, and I have more of it on the way. To help out with the group buy, I am going to be offering material at a discount for him.

To help decide how much we need, would you mind picking your favorite option for handle material? If you choose Tasmanian Blackwood or gidgee, we could select specific pieces from my site when the time comes, or go random.

This is not binding, this is just for our info.

If anyone needs examples of finished handles of each species just ask.

Please answer the poll if you are interested: https://strawpoll.com/GJn47oEbYyz
 
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Hey guys, been talking with Mr. Blank as I supplied the redgum for his last batch, and I have more of it on the way. To help out with the group buy, I am going to be offering material at a discount for him.

To help decide how much we need, would you mind picking your favorite option for handle material? If you choose Tasmanian Blackwood or gidgee, we could select specific pieces from my site when the time comes, or go random.

If anyone needs examples of finished handles of each species just ask.

Please answer the poll if you are interested: https://strawpoll.com/GJn47oEbYyz
Afzelia Xylay Would be awesome too!
 
How heavy/dense is redgum? Blackwood is heavy and big oak is usually not as much. What is the thickness of the M2 stock by the way?
It's a eucalyptus; reasonably dense, but not blackwood level. Certainly more than bog oak. A nice middle ground. This is the species before the mineral take up in the river: https://www.wood-database.com/river-red-gum/
 
Im not picky on wood. Whatever satisfies the most streamlined ordering/production process.
 
How heavy/dense is redgum? Blackwood is heavy and big oak is usually not as much. What is the thickness of the M2 stock by the way?
If you want specifics, here are some averages:
english oak(most common bog oak species apparently): avg weight 42lb/ft
redgum: 54lb/ft
african blackwood: 79 lb/ft

If you want something very dense, I have gidgee, 3d hardest wood in the world, and that is 72lb/ft. If you want something light, tasmanian blackwood is 40lb/ft. Of course my stabilized stuff is much heavier, but unstablized would do just fine as well, and I have a lot of.
 
The reason wood might be important is because it might affect balance. Of course you could compensate with the tang length, thickness, but then the whole streamlining goes out the window if you had to mess with each. On the other hand I don't make knives so maybe I am overthinking it. To me balance is vastly more important than the specific wood.
 
The reason wood might be important is because it might affect balance. Of course you could compensate with the tang length, thickness, but then the whole streamlining goes out the window if you had to mess with each. On the other hand I don't make knives so maybe I am overthinking it. To me balance is vastly more important than the specific wood.
Personally, for me it really only matters if I have a really thick workhorse or a very thin laser...IE really heavy wood for a workhorse, or something light for a laser. I think they all should work out quite well, they are medium density woods (except for the gidgee). But if someone wants to choose a heavier handle, then I suspect gidgee would be the best option, I have it on a yanick and nine.

At the end of the day, I don't think the difference is massive if the handles are the same size. I remember measuring the weight of similar sized handles in different species, and they ended up only varying in a few grams. Again, my personal opinion as a user, not maker.

Haven't asked blank if he is open to everyone choosing between 3-4 species, or we just pick 1-2. We could do one heavier and one lighter for preference. This is just a feeler because I might need to source some more redgum if it's a popular choice. I have enough for about 10 handles.

Like I said, very happy for us all to choose each block from the species listed, or we just standardize it. Up to the people and Blank.

Thanks for the feedback.
 
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The reason wood might be important is because it might affect balance. Of course you could compensate with the tang length, thickness, but then the whole streamlining goes out the window if you had to mess with each. On the other hand I don't make knives so maybe I am overthinking it. To me balance is vastly more important than the specific wood.
i dont think it is going to be too big of an issue between these different woods. especially if i can make micarta balanced. these woods shouldn't be too big of an issue.
 
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