SOLD 240x53mm Wootz Gyuto

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DanielC

KKF Sponsor
Joined
Sep 30, 2014
Messages
422
Reaction score
1,710
Hello all. This is made from my deep hardening chemistry Wootz I've been making lately. This particular knife was orphaned, so it found itself for sale.

This steel is made from scratch by me. Every raw ingredient is specifically tailored by me. From raw ingredients, to melt procedure, to specific forging procedures. After dozens of hours of work, I present to you this.

Specs:

-240x53mm
-4.4mm thick spine @ handle
-3mm thick spine Halfway
-1.8mm thick spine 1" from tip
-Workhorse grind with a shinogi ground in.
- ~1.6% C watered Wootz
- ~64-65rc
- 295g
- Handle is WA style, single piece, fully stabilized Bog Oak
- Hand sanded and etched.

Price: $1900+SH



Will have pics later, especially upon request.

20240121_224246.jpg20240121_224243.jpg
 
Last edited:
Daniel, Daniel, Daniel. DAMN!

Since our last discussion, you know how much respect I have for your work. It's crazy how impeccable your technique is and how much you suffered to get where you are. I'm unfortunately poor like a student just out of university, but at this price, knowing all the work behind it, it's practically a bargain...

Please someone pick this up for me 🥹
 
It's taken years to get to this point. Not really any instruction at all. The methods were lost a couple hundred years ago when the last Sikh wootzsmith hung up his hammer. Al Pendray and Verhoeven didn't really expose the intricacies on how to do it despite the way their papers read. Al kept several key points secret.

Today, I feel like I make better patterns than Al Pendray, but we have a better understanding on what's going on and what changes what in forging despite not having any of his details, but through trial and error and our own microscopes. I am not the world's best Wootzsmith, but I like to think I'm up there. The pattern reveals it all. The microstructure is the tell-all. So much time goes into each blade to properly knead the steel. So much time went to figuring that out! It's kind of exhausting when I think about it.
 
Last edited:
Incredible knife that has me considering spending twice what I would normally consider my limit on cutlery.

If one was to purchase this knife and actually use it, sharpen it often, thin it, etc. What would you recommend that individual do to maintain the incredible polish/etch as it is new?
 
Incredible knife that has me considering spending twice what I would normally consider my limit on cutlery.

If one was to purchase this knife and actually use it, sharpen it often, thin it, etc. What would you recommend that individual do to maintain the incredible polish/etch as it is new?
I've had to refinish several of these a number of times looking for the best coffee patination. It's best to he treated like any blade that underwent etchants, like patternweld. Mosaics.

These can be taken back with 1200-1500 grit sandpaper and taken to as fine as you please, and then dipped in concentrated warm coffee for 4-8hrs.

After that it's rinsed off, not touched with anything, taken to a hair dryer. Once it dries at this state, the patina is locked in. The I take it to the sink and lightly scrub with soap and a wet paper towel to makes sure any coffee remnants are gone.

I originally dipped these in highly diluted etchant to give a level of topography for the coffee to really adhere to.

This is the same blade after taking off the coffee patina with sandpaper and then taking back to 3k. After this picture it was dipped in coffee.

20240120_193642.jpg
 
Back
Top