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Welcome aboard! Ryusen Blazen are fantastic knives. I could imagine you were looking for information about sharpening SG-2. The archive here is your friend. Rather than using the site's search engine, you may consider Google's 'site:'-function. E.g. search site:kitchenknifeforums.com term1...

Welcome aboard! If you're interested in the huge archive, rather than using the site's search engine, you may consider Google's 'site:'-function. E.g. search site:kitchenknifeforums.com term1 AND term2

A lot of factory edges are weak, very weak. Has to do with poor buffing. So you get a new knife with fatigued steel. All too common. So you better give it a full sharpening, starting with a 500 or a 320. Make sure to remove all of the original edge. A sharpie and a loupe are very helpful.

Never used the Takamura. From what I hear, they are laserish and strictly symmetric. Food release shouldn't be their strong side. But they are quite popular these days, so others can tell you from their experiences.

Don't know if you need go that high. The Naniwa Chocera Pro 3k offers a 4k edge. The Shapton Glass 4k is a very different stone, with equally good results. The quality of your edge is mainly determined by your patient work with the first stone. What goes wrong there can't be corrected by higher...

Not exactly, at least not for my use of it. If I start behind the edge I do raise a bit of mud. Anyway, with this kind of maintenance the art is in performing it in time, and not insisting if you're too late. If I can't easily get a smooth edge with a few BBW strokes I go to a coarser stone, a...

The Fepa 220 F corresponds more or less with the first stone I used for working the Deep Impact, a Shapton Glass 320. Do the progression as you like, but the finest stone should IMHO be at least a Japanese 3 or 4k, which is just slightly finer than Fepa F 1k, according to my grit chart. Always...

Neither! Only edge leading, as with deburring, but starting a bit behind the edge. All my edges are convexed. Once a year or so I deglaze with a worn-in Atoma, or in the rare cases I want indeed to rase more mud. I should add I use — very old school — saliva instead of water.

A have BBW in different sizes, but a 15 x 4cm in the kitchen, for in-hand reviving an edge. It's by far my most used BBW.

What did you bought in Paris?

Curious about that 4k ceramic rod. That's quite a high grit. Well, I use a small BBW for daily maintenance of all my knives, except with German soft stainless, who don't hold a somewhat polished edge. The fun about BBW is that their garnets do abrade a burr, without raising a new one.

Welcome aboard! If you're interested in the huge archive, rather than using the site's search engine, you may consider Google's 'site:'-function. E.g. search site:kitchenknifeforums.com term1 AND term2

You're most welcome!

The Deep Impact has a similar, strongly asymmetric geometry as the Carbonext, Misono and most other Japanese yo-knives, but it comes with a 50/50 edge, which is far from corresponding to the blade's geometry. It's done for marketing reasons. That makes that some work is required to give it an...

Handle is quite substantial, blade stiff thanks to the relatively thick spine. The first Herder in 1.2519 at 60Rc, long before the introduction of the K-series.

Herder has very different series. Your sweeping judgment probably applies to the K series. Certainly not to the 1922 or the Lignum 3, unless you've actually experienced so. I certainly did not. With my last orders with JCK I paid €3.15 VAT – the Netherlands tariff is 21% – and € 5 handling...

Problem is, there aren't much knives today that come ready for use out of the box. I guess you won't feel comfortable with having to heavily thin a brand new knife. The only ones I know that only need a bit of refinement but have a decent edge, are the Robert Herders. Prices for the 1922 series...

You still pay your German VAT, and the Dutch middleman. I get stuff from JCK cheaper, much cheaper, than buying here. I find the Misono 210 a bit narrow. Got recently the 195 which is better balanced but it required a lot of thinning. The same with a recent 240. Very different from the one I got...

The Misono Swedish Carbons are excellent knives. Recent ones though come far too fat behind the edge out of the factory, and require serious thinning. About the Kanetsune: VG-10 is a great steel if it got the right Heat Treatment, which rarely is the case.

You may consider a stainless cladded with a carbon core. Easy maintenance. This one offers a spectacular edge retention, and a good food release thanks to the careful grinding, even when being really thin. I've the 210 in mind...