Paper Towel Challenge

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When using denim, can you use just denim or do you need compound for that also

No compound necessary. To be honest I don’t use them much. Maybe it helps but I think felt or jeans do fine on their own
 
No compound necessary. To be honest I don’t use them much. Maybe it helps but I think felt or jeans do fine on their own
That'sa relief. I didn't really want to buy and test out all different kinds of compound. Next sharpening I'll try stropping on some jeans. See how that does
 
Not hating here but doesn’t the speed of the pull affect how well it cuts the towel? I’m sure there’s a physics formula involving friction, kinetic energy and burst pressure of paper
A slow consistent pull would test the sharpness and apex better
Similar to a straight push cut vs a draw cut on paper
 
Not hating here but doesn’t the speed of the pull affect how well it cuts the towel? I’m sure there’s a physics formula involving friction, kinetic energy and burst pressure of paper
A slow consistent pull would test the sharpness and apex better
Similar to a straight push cut vs a draw cut on paper
Only one way to find out!
Test it!

 
work it GIF


Here seen gesturing a complex grind geometry
We will discuss asymmetry only in the next lesson.
 
One swipe on a Spyderco medium to get past fatigued steel. Then koma slurry on my favorite aizu, finish on clean water. No strop.

Do I need to strop to drop a paper towel like that?

No. But it could help. But be strategic.

This is some worthwhile reading. I wouldn't take it all as gospel but this was a thought provoking post for me. In general stropping on an un-treated medium really only does so much unless you bring an already clean stone edge to the strop. If you can't slowly draw cut paper towel free hanging, a strop will do precious little.

A CrOx treated strop can help with somewhat larger burrs, but even then the foundation work needs to be pretty good. Your smooth leather is doing even less.

https://scienceofsharp.com/2024/02/03/seven-misconceptions-about-knife-burrs/

When you say strop, the details matter too. Fixed to a board or hanging? Leather (smooth or rough?), cotton, linen, cardboard? Treated or untreated? If treated, with what? CrOx, diamond, red rouge? Any could have an impact on how much abrasive power and how much rounding you're doing at the edge. The sheer number of strokes has an impact on the amount of plastic deformation.

I realize that's a lot of detail but it matters for a trick like this. I'm sure your knife cuts food well. Its primary task.

A smooth leather strop I've found most useful for razors. An edge coming with almost no burr due to how razors are sharpened. I really never use one for a kitchen knife. Because my freehand angles are shakier than a razor, and I'm using coarser stones, I want a strop to have more abrasive power. This means linen, single layer cardboard or a CrOx/diamond treated denim strop.

For a trick like this, I tend to go rigid-back to avoid too much rounding (as opposed to a hanging strop). Rounding increases the effective sharpening angle, making this trick a little trickier. I would try stropping ONE time on each side, cut a paper towel. Strop ONE more time. Cut another towel. Depending on compound and abrasive power, one swipe can do more than you might think. Especially diamond. Going one at a time will help you build an intuition of what's not enough and what's too much.

And the whole time, feel and listen. Correlate those feedback queues with performance. Then re-sharpen and do it all over. Then put it down and come back tomorrow. Take notes if it helps. I rarely if ever look back at mine but writing forces me to think and decide "what did I see, hear and feel" so it imprints on me.

You're clearly eager and dedicated, keep at it!
 
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No. But it could help. But be strategic.

This is some worthwhile reading. I wouldn't take it all as gospel but this was a thought provoking post for me. In general stropping on an un-treated medium really only does so much unless you bring an already clean stone edge to the strop. If you can't slowly draw cut paper towel free hanging, a strop will do precious little.

A CrOx treated strop can help with somewhat larger burrs, but even then the foundation work needs to be pretty good. Your smooth leather is doing even less.

https://scienceofsharp.com/2024/02/03/seven-misconceptions-about-knife-burrs/

When you say strop, the details matter too. Fixed to a board or hanging? Leather (smooth or rough?), cotton, linen, cardboard? Treated or untreated? If treated, with what? CrOx, diamond, red rouge? Any could have an impact on how much abrasive power and how much rounding you're doing at the edge. The sheer number of strokes has an impact on the amount of plastic deformation.

I realize that's a lot of detail but it matters for a trick like this. I'm sure your knife cuts food well. Its primary task.

A smooth leather strop I've found most useful for razors. An edge coming with almost no burr due to how razors are sharpened. I really never use one for a kitchen knife. Because my freehand angles are shakier than a razor, and I'm using coarser stones, I want a strop to have more abrasive power. This means linen, single layer cardboard or a CrOx/diamond treated denim strop.

For a trick like this, I tend to go rigid-back to avoid too much rounding (as opposed to a hanging strop). Rounding increases the effective sharpening angle, making this trick a little trickier. I would try stropping ONE time on each side, cut a paper towel. Strop ONE more time. Cut another towel. Depending on compound and abrasive power, one swipe can do more than you might think. Especially diamond. Going one at a time will help you build an intuition of what's not enough and what's too much.

And the whole time, feel and listen. Correlate those feedback queues with performance. Then re-sharpen and do it all over. Then put it down and come back tomorrow. Take notes if it helps. I rarely if ever look back at mine but writing forces me to think and decide "what did I see, hear and feel" so it imprints on me.

You're clearly eager and dedicated, keep at it!
Thank you. All I can do is try and try again while learning along the way
 
No compound necessary. To be honest I don’t use them much. Maybe it helps but I think felt or jeans do fine on their own
Sorry to bug you again. Will it work to just pull jeans taut or do I need to glue a piece to some wood?
 
It is perfectly possible to abrade the burr at the sharpening angle. That said, it's easier with a slightly convexed edge.
I see neeves knives flip the burr each time he flips the knife before grinding on that side. At the end, he does trailing passes alternating sides to flip the burr back and forth before finally finishing with a couple leading passes. Does that way work out do you think there's a better way?
Sorry, remind me again what's wrong with the light 45dps pass to grind it off and then back at the sharpening angle, cross hatching the grit pattern?
 
Sorry to bug you again. Will it work to just pull jeans taut or do I need to glue a piece to some wood?
For a trick like this, I tend to go rigid-back to avoid too much rounding (as opposed to a hanging strop). Rounding increases the effective sharpening angle, making this trick a little trickier.
See the response above 👆
 
Not hating here but doesn’t the speed of the pull affect how well it cuts the towel? I’m sure there’s a physics formula involving friction, kinetic energy and burst pressure of paper
A slow consistent pull would test the sharpness and apex better
Similar to a straight push cut vs a draw cut on paper


This is an interesting q., or at least I find it interesting, though I realise I may be in a minority ;). Unfortunately it's difficult to answer definitively, because there are a couple of factors that work in slightly different or opposite ways here.

As far as I understand; speed or KE will have almost no bearing on the frictional force in the majority of situations, including this. Which suggests that faster or slower movement will make no noticeable difference to the ease of cut.

However (1): Slicing a piece of paper towel gets easier as you through the cut. Which is because the already cut section of it falls away, and the weight makes the area you're cutting toward the bottom more taught, which in turn increases the normal force against the knife, and hence the overall friction. Which means that slower cutting of paper towel can sometimes actually be easier. Though obviously the cut itself is more likely to be curved than straight (see @iMLG4Fun's vid above), because the towel is falling away.

However (2): In practice, to say that slow cutting paper towel is easier than fast wouldn't be entirely true either. It only applies if the the section of the edge used is; good, and consistent, and very cleanly deburred. If it's not, then slow cutting will highlight these imperfections, and be more likely to snag. Whereas faster cutting may obfuscate them.

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Whilst I don't think you can really say that one might be more 'difficult' than the other, I'd absolutely be inclined to think that what you say about usefulness is correct... If one is doing (any kind of) paper test to check the state of an edge, or the sharpening job you've just done - then slower cutting is gonna tell you more.
 
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@cotedupy you can stop flexing on us anytime (but don’t, because I love watching that clean paper towel drop)

😬 😬 😬

I *promise* this will be my last wanky video on this thread, but I was bored just now, and intrigued by this q...


Anyone pull this off with a Crystolon?
I just tried with a medium on a Chicago Cutlery. I think the stone is just to muddy to get a clean apex. I think the stones in my 313 are just soft for some reason. Maybe I will try on another sic stone....
I can't get a clean cut off of the crystolon coarse. Comes out ragged. Haven't tried the medium crystolon. I can get a pretty clean cut off of a coarse India.


So I went out to the shed to find an old SiC/Crystolon (one of the by-products of too many ebay mystery stone gambles) and flattened it on some paving stones in my garden. Which gave me the added benefit of a special, performance-enhancing, green algae/moss slurry to work off:

IMG_5490.jpg


IMG_5491.jpg



It's 6x2 and though I don't know exactly what it is, I'd say it's pretty decent quality. My guess would be probably a Norton 'Fine' Crystolon, ie around the range of 320 JIS.

Used with oil, finished leading, and stropped firmly on suede side leather. This is actually going to be a pretty mega kitchen knife edge by the feel of it, so much tooth and bite for something so keen:

IMG_5493.jpg





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Anyway, good luck @hibbs00, as you can see - there is no specialized technique or equipment involved in this kind of thing. Just practice, and it will come!
 
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Y'all are waaaaay better than I am at this but here's me taking a Kiwi from dull to paper towel s-cuts in <90s on worn sandpaper... Okay... Here goes nothing... https://www.reddit.com/r/sharpening/s/qMGeqEJo4N

Edit: So I wobble quite a lot and also rock on my heels. Not sure when I started the rocking but it's p weird, huh. I guess it's good to step back and evaluate once in a while.
 
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