These are the ones that I use, but my store sell individual rasps, like those in the set for $8.99 each
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/needle-rasp-set-w-handle
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/needle-rasp-set-w-handle
These are the ones that I use, but my store sell individual rasps, like those in the set for $8.99 each
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/needle-rasp-set-w-handle
Thanks for your 'process' photos — very interesting/informative! Looks like some beautiful wood, and unique.This is my basic handle design - hidden split dowel. Once the shaping is complete, I start filing the ferrule with a dremel. After it’s roughed out, I finish with cheap Chinese files.
Handy Rasps with Square Handle - Hand - 8.5″ - cut 2 |
Needle Rasps 6.3″ - cut 2 set of 6 |
Handy Rasps with Square Handle - Hand - 8.5″ - cut 0 |
Hey guys, do you just not use the higher end stuff like Liogier hand-stitched rasps because of the unit economics (not a lot of margin in knife handles) and that you’re using them where the user can’t see? For stuff like saw handles and especially furniture they’re the gold standard.
For handles, the rasp is mainly for shaping the tang hole. So it needs to be thin enough such that you don't end up with a ginormous hole.Well you say needle file, but for wood we use rasps not files (mostly). What I’d understand you are talking about is a thin triangular or round rasp.
Well you say needle file, but for wood we use rasps not files (mostly). What I’d understand you are talking about is a thin triangular or round rasp.
I have been refining what works for a couple years. I tend to build handles with a hidden slotted dowel. I open up the tang hole on the ferrule with a milling machine (now). Not many years I would create the slot on my drill press with a number of holes in a line. Then I would angle the handle and keep drilling. Wiggle the handle back and forth until the tang slot was opened up. Once I can get files in the hole, Amazon a number of cheap mini wooden files sets that will last 99% of people years. As far as a broch tool, I use a jigsaw blade in a small vice grip. I am tempted to grab a longer sawsall blade and grind the back down to fit my needs.
Occasionally the 6 inch drill bit (as suggested above) comes out.
You could probably use something like a dovetail saw to put the slit in the dowel by hand. Or even a coping saw if your good enough at keeping it straight.Since I don't have a powered saw, I'm using a method the utilizes a shorter dowel (~40mm) with a .25" hole drilled in it. This means I do need to remove more material inside. I'm also using jigsaw blades and narrow drywall saw I've had for ages for the "rough" work. So the trick with this method is opening up the hole below the face slot in a mostly uniform way with the slot. If that makes sense...
You could probably use something like a dovetail saw to put the slit in the dowel by hand. Or even a coping saw if your good enough at keeping it straight.
Do you folks have a brand of needle files that hold up better or do you generally go for the lower cost and replace approach?
Specifically talking handle making and hard woods, like filing out the tang slot.
this one is also good.
this one is also good.
these are the best ones.Ive never seen a needle file quite like this one.
Yeah. Those are the ones i have. They do just fine.will second the husky brand use them daily!
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