# Corby Bolts vs. Pins



## Castalia (Dec 10, 2014)

I have been busy in my little garage workshop with hand tools rehandling some Hiromoto Gingami 180mm gyutos to give to friendsand relatives as an intro to Japanese knives. I have now rehandled most western handles in the kitchen and find it a fun hobby. 

I have been using two 1/4" brass corby bolts and a little 1/8" mosaic pin for my handles. As I was sitting down to order more corby bolts at $2-3 a bolt, I started wondering why I don't just use brass pins. :idea2: Are the corby bolts really overkill for a basic kitchen knife rehandle or do they add to the longevity and strength of the handle? Price is not a huge deal and I don't mind buying the bolts but just want to hear from some more experienced handle makers that the bolts are worth using.

I appreciate all the handle making experts on the forum and have learned a lot over the past year or so. One of these days I will try a WA handle, but a saya is next on my list of things to try.


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## Sabaki (Dec 10, 2014)

I think it's an easy choice, brass pins carefully pinned to a tight seal
grind it flat if you prefer

those slotted screws is a place for bacteria if you'r unlucky


My 100 post:angel2:


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## ecchef (Dec 11, 2014)

Corby's add a little extra protection against the scales pulling away from the tang should the wood start to move. Not an issue with synthetics.


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## Castalia (Dec 11, 2014)

Thanks for the comments. I'm typically using plenty of epoxy, liners and stabilized wood for the scales. I file, sand and polish the corbys down flush with the scale so there is no slot left. I'm okay with "wearing a belt and suspenders" if it has some possible benefit. I just have not had the opportunity of seeing how my handles fare over several years, as I have only been at it for about a year or so.


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## Pensacola Tiger (Dec 11, 2014)

FWIW, I've had issues with two knives that were only pinned, but none with knives using Corby bolts.


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## Sabaki (Dec 11, 2014)

Castalia said:


> Thanks for the comments. I'm typically using plenty of epoxy, liners and stabilized wood for the scales. I file, sand and polish the corbys down flush with the scale so there is no slot left. I'm okay with "wearing a belt and suspenders" if it has some possible benefit. I just have not had the opportunity of seeing how my handles fare over several years, as I have only been at it for about a year or so.



look's like no worries for you:thumbsup:

It's quite common to hit the pinns a little to hard, gently and slowly to make it soften without cracking resulting in a very tight and secure seal


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## knyfeknerd (Dec 11, 2014)

There is a bit of a learning curve to getting the corby's to fit properly. I prefer straight pins whilst rehandling, but mostly for my sanity.


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## stereo.pete (Dec 11, 2014)

Pensacola Tiger said:


> FWIW, I've had issues with two knives that were only pinned, but none with knives using Corby bolts.



Mind elaborating as to what type of issues, how many pins, what the handle materials were? Feel free to PM if you are worried about embarrassing anyone. I am deeply interested as I've only used pins and have had no issues so far.


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## BloodrootLS (Dec 15, 2014)

I suggest pins- if you make sure they're roughed up for increased surface area and clean them with acetone and use a good mildly flexible epoxy like G-Flex you won't have any trouble. Peening pins can impart stresses on the scales which can cause cracking over time, especially in unstabilized woods and I wouldn't recommed it. I've repaired sevearl knives with this problem. Corbys work great but I also wouldn't over-tighten them. They're both good methods and I don't think you can go wrong. Good luck! 

~Luke


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## zackerty (Apr 13, 2015)

Corbys will always be my first choice...
Pins look more graceful sometimes when the scales are a real nice looking material, but sometimes s slight flexing of the handle will allow the scales to let go, especially synthetics, as epoxies have reduced peel strength...


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## tim37 (Apr 19, 2015)

An epoxy like G-Flex, which has some flexibility, will give you all the strength you will ever need. The epoxy also acts a sealant, keeping water out of the joint between blade and scale. Carbon Steel and, to a lesser extent, stainless steel will rust if water is allowed to sit between the blade and scale.

Tim


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