# Electricians and Their Favorite Tools



## Seth (May 9, 2016)

Well, if I could do it over, I would be an electrician. So if you are on this forum you are probably particular about your tools. I've been in buying mode. I have screwdrivers and pliers from Klein, Knipex, Wiha, Wera. All these brands seem to be pretty high-end. I like screwdrivers from Wera and pliers of various types from Knipex. The pliers from Wiha are nice too but have a different feel to them.

What would be your favorites for various categories. Just curious about pros and the brands and tools they like. I will say that these tools do less damage to the finances than collecting Shigs....
Seth


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## bkultra (May 9, 2016)

Check out this site for more of the higher end brands. You named some very good brands but this site has a few more you left out (like NWS Germany).

http://chadstoolbox.com


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## Castalia (May 9, 2016)

That is a very cool site! I liked the Wera bottle opener. :doublethumbsup:


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## Hattorichop (May 9, 2016)

I use a lot of Klein tools but I do like some others for specific task. I like Wera termination screw drivers for the small stuff. Grey tools make the best ratchet wrenches and I really like their adjustable wrenches. I just picked up a Wera multi driver with a ratcheting mechanism, I like it but it will not replace my Klein screw drives. Ridgid pipe wrenches are the only way to go.


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## Hattorichop (May 9, 2016)

A few more 

Ideal for fish tapes, hand pipe benders and wire strippers.
Greenlee for hydraulic knockout punches, cable cutters, ratcheting and electric pipe benders and cable tuggers and tugging accessories.
Fluke for meters all the way.


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## Lucretia (May 9, 2016)

+1 for Fluke meters

Omega makes good temperature measurement equipment.

If you just want to look for things that you've never heard of and didn't know you might need, Grainger (http://www.grainger.com) and McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com) are fun.


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## Bill13 (May 9, 2016)

Oh nice, a thread where I am totally in my environment.

Klein linesman pliers with the thinner insulation. I prefer the hardened ones with the crimper built in: http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/h...verage-side-cutting-pliers-connector-crimping

For diagonal cutter or "dikes" I like the thicker insulation versions with the angled head which is useful for removing nails or staples etc.: http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/h...-leverage-diagonal-cutting-pliers-angled-head

For needle nose thicker insulation again although I could not fine the thicker insulation ones, maybe they are not made anymore?: http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/h...3-mm-heavy-duty-long-nose-pliers-side-cutting.

For basic voltage testers I prefer one with a built in continuity tester since they are so often used. This one is the no brainer, if an electrician shows up at your house with another model, I would think they either have not been doing this for long or worse:nunchucks:. I still have my first one, with the leads replaced several times. I bought it in 1986:bigeek: http://www.idealind.com/ideal-elect...tinuity-testers/solenoid-voltage-testers.aspx
The digital version is not tough enough.

I prefer Greenlee pipe benders,and Ideal fishsteels.

I have two Fluke meters, an every day one: http://en-us.fluke.com/products/clamp-meters/fluke-325-clamp-meter.html

And a model that will store data: http://en-us.fluke.com/products/digital-multimeters/fluke-87v-digital-multimeter.html#features.

I use Klein screwdrivers but am not in love with them, for smaller screwdrivers I order Wera.

The king of hacksaws is by Greenlee, mine is about 20 years old. http://www.whitecap.com/shop/wc/greenlee-cutting-tools/brand-Greenlee The new model sucks.

Hilti is the best for drills. I have an older model (I sense a theme here). The chuck is removable so it takes either a true percussion SDS bit for concrete or a HS chuck for wood or metal this is the newest version of mine: https://www.us.hilti.com/drilling-&-demolition/rotary-hammers/r3509

For drilling wood my go to drill is by Makita. It's quiet, a big benefit in my mind, and powerful enough. I like the 90 degree because it's easier to pull the wires thru : http://makitatools.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?Name=DA4000LR

My small cordless is by Panasonic, I used to use the Milwaukee but their tools have really gone down hill over the last 20 years or so. I think Panasonic cordless tools are the best, at least for now They charge quickly and the battery can drive a 1.5 inch screw flush into pine. I use it mostly for switch and plugging.: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RERWXC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


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## ecchef (May 9, 2016)

Another vote for Fluke. I have an 87 III that's been indestructible.
I also like my Bosch I driver, as long as I don't try to use it as a drill. However, the shank on Japanese bits is too long to allow the collet to lock, which is really friggin annoying. :angry1:


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## WingKKF (May 9, 2016)

Speaking of screwdrivers, I've mostly replaced my Wiha phillips heads for Hozan JIS head screwdrivers. They fit the screws in anything made in Asia better than regular phillips head drivers because a lot of cruciform type screws nowadays are actually JIS head screws and not phillips. They are also compatible with phillips screws.

I love my Fluke 179. If you are dealing with higher voltages, I would not trust any no name Made in China meter. Check out some of the videos where they subject different meters to high voltages. Positively hair raising.


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## Dardeau (May 9, 2016)

That is interesting. I've noticed the Asian Phillips problem, good to know its not just me.


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## Seth (May 10, 2016)

Hattorichop said:


> A few more
> 
> Ideal for fish tapes, hand pipe benders and wire strippers.
> Greenlee for hydraulic knockout punches, cable cutters, ratcheting and electric pipe benders and cable tuggers and tugging accessories.
> Fluke for meters all the way.



As a non-pro, I was trying to figure out some three way switches probably from around 1920 so I finally broke down and got a fluke 117 - best thing I ever did. I could locate the common and travelers on the old switch in seconds. Old porcelain mechanical cleverness; surprising the thing still worked. This house was owned by an engineer who tagged numbers on everything including inside the boxes with those little metal rimmed price tags. Ha...interesting concept!

I find there is some variability on pliers in particular; regardless of the brand some work like butter with no wobble and some are too tight. Fortunately most worked really well as I have about 10 of these and they tend to cost about $35 to $55 each.


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## Bill13 (May 10, 2016)

For cutting smaller screws like 6/32, 8/32, and 10/32 I found these to be the best, anything made by Thomas and Betts is quality: https://www.emisupply.com/catalog/t...gclid=CLLOhu7Az8wCFcokhgodWzcACw#.VzHTyVgrKUk

The crimper for insulated and non insulated crimps is nice too. The last plus is that unlike most strippers it has marking for solid or stranded wire. The bad news is that it's on the hand side of the pivot so there is less leverage.

For stripping Romex this Ideal stripper is indispensable. The curved handles are great and it will cut the overall sheath of the romex which is a time saver and neater. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D1IYUS/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The downside is you lose the stripping holes for 10 ga wire.


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## Bill13 (May 10, 2016)

Hattorichop said:


> A few more
> 
> Ideal for fish tapes, hand pipe benders and wire strippers.
> Greenlee for hydraulic knockout punches, cable cutters, ratcheting and electric pipe benders and cable tuggers and tugging accessories.
> Fluke for meters all the way.



Agree with everything but the pipe benders - I prefer Greenlee, but both are good.


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## Seth (May 10, 2016)

My amazon wishlist is out of control now. Thanks, guys. Does anyone use crimper sleeves for tying together grounds in a box instead of wire nuts?


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## Bill13 (May 10, 2016)

Seth said:


> My amazon wishlist is out of control now. Thanks, guys. Does anyone use crimper sleeves for tying together grounds in a box instead of wire nuts?



I hate crimper sleeves with a passion. Guys cut the grounds to short to work on them later and they suck when you are going back years later on a job where they were used. Around here they are mostly used on new construction, larger projects. Use instead for 14ga or 2 12 ga my favorite wirenut: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ASFD7Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

For 12 ga I only use these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B016X3W42O/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
The spring inside has a slightly larger opening so the wire range is greater.


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## Mucho Bocho (May 10, 2016)

This is great thread guys. I went to electrical trade school so brings back good memories. When are we going to start talking about cutting oil!!


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## Seth (May 10, 2016)

I know the answer. I was looking at a sub panel in my house and all neutrals and grounds go to the same interconnected bars both of which seem to be floating. Not really a question but my house was owned by an electrician so I don't get it. Was there anytime during the 1960s forward when this would have been allowed? Or was this previous owner just the worst electrician in the world? On the plus side there are three way and four way switches every 2 feet....ha.

I have another puzzle with the answer: rip it out. Back to the 1920s house: Some outlets are reversed. Okay, so you reverse the conductors and any conductor with color will look like it is in the wrong place. I thought it could be interesting to find the origin of polarity disparity. I've been told that, especially with knob and tube, sometimes splice boxes get their conductors messed up and reversed. But then it occurred to me that if you reverse the wires up stream you could energize neutral wires downstream. Not so bad except that if you have a bootleg ground (new word for me) you could potentially energize the entire grounding system. That would be bad.

The real answer is I am going to invite everyone on this thread to the house to have a re-wire party. I think I like this stuff because it has that nice balance between trade skills and the ability to problem solve. You electricians must want to tear your hair out when you see what homeowners do (except me of course)!


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## Bill13 (May 10, 2016)

Post a picture. A residential sub panel should have three insulated wires (hot, hot, and white neutral) and a bare or insulated green ground. The grounds are supposed to be bonded to the metal enclosure with a grounding bar. The neutrals are supposed to go to a neutral bar that as you said floats, it does not connect to the panel (at least electrically). Connecting the neutrals and grounds in a sub panel has not been allowed unless maybe during and shortly after WW2, thankfully that is WAY before my time. I know during the war dryers and ranges were allowed to be powered with no neutral and it was not changed back until much later. 

Are you sure you have K & T wiring, it's very uncommon now. If it's BX it can be a pain to find where the problem is. If the place is a mess sometimes it can be quicker to just disconnect everything in the problem circuit then turn the power back on to fine the first powered up location. Work you way away from the panel, so to speak connecting things back together one at a time. Order tamper resistant self grounding receptacles and you should be GTG.


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## LifeByA1000Cuts (May 22, 2016)

Look at Lindstrom's cutters too - carbon steel and precise


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## boomchakabowwow (May 26, 2016)

haha..
i'm house shopping now. i broke a personal house shopping rule of mine and went into a few home renovated by flippers. there were some BEAUTIES. i got caught up all the bright lights and shiney kitchens and made an offer or two. the first home, i notice on a third visit the neighboring property was church, that stored their food dumpster right next to my potential backyard. i was "okay"with it, my wife..nope. pulled that offer.

second flip house..was stunning. i crawled around and looked that the fancy jet tubs, cool kitchen, etc..and flipped open the elec panel. it was a beat up Zinsco box with the missing inner panel. rut roh..i dug deeper and found that none of the work was done with permits..i pulled my money out..

third house, i am back to my rules. no flip home. found an older lady selling to move. super clean, nicely modded..i'll happily finish the work slowly. should be and easy painless purchase. she wants to sell to me, i want to buy from her. easy peasy.

i cannot wait to get my tools out of the storage unit. none of it are elect tools except my multi meter.. i'm a car guy.


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## Bill13 (May 27, 2016)

boomchakabowwow said:


> haha..
> i'm house shopping now. i broke a personal house shopping rule of mine and went into a few home renovated by flippers. there were some BEAUTIES. i got caught up all the bright lights and shiney kitchens and made an offer or two. the first home, i notice on a third visit the neighboring property was church, that stored their food dumpster right next to my potential backyard. i was "okay"with it, my wife..nope. pulled that offer.
> 
> second flip house..was stunning. i crawled around and looked that the fancy jet tubs, cool kitchen, etc..and flipped open the elec panel. it was a beat up Zinsco box with the missing inner panel. rut roh..i dug deeper and found that none of the work was done with permits..i pulled my money out..
> ...



I'm with you. I bought and flipped a couple of houses a long time ago, I refused to cut corners and used quality stuff, but most people don't want to pay for that. Fancy plumbing and nice appliances win the women over, everything else is the cheapest possible. You are much better off buying an unmolested home. Congrats on the new home!!


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## LifeByA1000Cuts (May 27, 2016)

I don't know how the HELL a topic came up that made that fact appropriate to mention on a forum like this: There is a larger-than-most-think community around 1950s to 1970s lab-grade electronics test gear (HP, General Radio, Tek...) ... industrial grade rabbit hole too, as stuff that used to be very expensive and still outclasses modern entry-level kit tends to create.

To keep some knife-related content in the thread: The more you get into stuff that involves printed circuit boards or manual construction techniques that are similar to such, the more there is one very counter-climactic knife you need: Cheap segblades. In dozen packs, or with packs of replacement blades. You need it sharp. You will be working on copper, sometimes mineral-filled plastics, and FR3/FR4/FR5 laminate. Good blades are wasted on such hostile materials. Yes, FR4/FR5 is roughly equivalent to G10, still would makers please stop advising to use FR4 for culinary handles unless very well sealed in - there are unspecified organic-halogen flame retardants, volatile enough to make various brands recognizable by smell, in that stuff, and with older stock that might well be bromine compounds.


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## Mucho Bocho (May 30, 2016)

Inspired by this thread and the prime enabler Bill13, I decided to upgrade a few of my pathetic hand tools. Check out this bad A$$ shovel, its 12 gauge and they were nice enough to send it without an edge, so I can put mine on it. Behind is a shot of 100 pickles in a 5% brine. Thanks for the inspiration. Happy Memorial Day!


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## TheNewMexican (Jun 6, 2016)

And after you have acquired a nice set of primo tools you can keep them all nice and organized in an "Ideal Industries" tote like this.........


















Have to be honest, when I saw this show up on a jobsite the other day I had to do a double take. Very cool way to carry stuff around.



Available from Amazon...... for you, today, only 5 dollar.........

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ZZK78K/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


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## Bill13 (Jun 6, 2016)

Gotta say that looks nice. I use this:


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## LifeByA1000Cuts (Jun 7, 2016)

@Mucho the spade in the second pic, I guess, will be needed in case the insulation on the tools in the first pic doesn't hold?


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