# Yanagiba information



## Mike Davis (Aug 17, 2011)

I am going to forge out a yanagiba while doing this batch. It will be a 300mm. What is a good thickness? I feel like .103 is too thin to make this out of. Would a 3/16 be better to start? I am going to forge to shape and forge the bevel in also. I was looking at a masamoto and think i will shoot for a similar profile, just unsure of the thickness.

Thank
Mike


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## Marko Tsourkan (Aug 17, 2011)

Mike Davis said:


> I am going to forge out a yanagiba while doing this batch. It will be a 300mm. What is a good thickness? I feel like .103 is too thin to make this out of. Would a 3/16 be better to start? I am going to forge to shape and forge the bevel in also. I was looking at a masamoto and think i will shoot for a similar profile, just unsure of the thickness.
> 
> Thank
> Mike


 
Most yanagibas are 4-4.5 mm at the spine.


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## ThEoRy (Aug 17, 2011)

Usually very thick to add weight to the blade. This way when slicing the weight of the blade does the downward force through the protein making it easier to slice cleanly.


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## ecchef (Aug 17, 2011)

Is this going to real yanagiba, single bevel & urasuki? Probably around 4-4.2 mm spine @ handle should do it.


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## Mike Davis (Aug 17, 2011)

ecchef said:


> Is this going to real yanagiba, single bevel & urasuki? Probably around 4-4.2 mm spine @ handle should do it.


 
As real as i can make it. I have a platen piece i want to try to make the urasuki. If measured properly, it should come in at about a 30" hollow on the back, after i forge it in as close as possible. I know japanese makers forge the urasuki in and that is what i am shooting for....I might mess it up, but i have more steel to play with  I will start a new WIP thread as i start this one....Maybe in the morning....well later this morning lol.

Thanks for the info guys


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## Eamon Burke (Aug 17, 2011)

lus1:

Also, you can chat with Jon, he's a bottomless pit of that kind of info.


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## Mike Davis (Aug 17, 2011)

Got started forging today...Hope this is close to the right shape....I know i need to thin the tip....But the bevels look pretty good and the urasuki is pretty even...Shouldn't be hard to get this cleaned and clay coated. I am going for broke on this hamon...Should be AWESOME! have a sweet trick to try


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## SpikeC (Aug 17, 2011)

Yowza! Looks like BIG fun! I wish I still had enough right arm to use a hammer like that!


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## JohnnyChance (Aug 17, 2011)

Wow that was some fast progress!


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## jmforge (Aug 17, 2011)

LOL. Yeah,I used to think that I had the arm to do that by hand until a piece 1 inch O1 drill rod informed the tendons in my elbow that I was sorely (pun intended) mistaken.


SpikeC said:


> Yowza! Looks like BIG fun! I wish I still had enough right arm to use a hammer like that!


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## Delbert Ealy (Aug 17, 2011)

Looks good, hey that anvil looks familiar.
Del


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## Mike Davis (Aug 17, 2011)

I will say that the Delbert 5lb hammer makes stuff move FAST!


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## Mike Davis (Aug 19, 2011)

Got the profile all straightened out and waiting to HT it...Hope this doesn't warp too bad or crack...It is pretty thick, hope that helps lol


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## Daniel Fairly (Aug 19, 2011)

cool, can't wait to see more!


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## jmforge (Aug 20, 2011)

Mike, how much taper do you put into a yanagiba?


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## Mike Davis (Aug 20, 2011)

I haven't put any taper in yet. Not sure how much to do yet. I am not going to do anymore than basic clean up grinds before HT. Left the edge at a touch thicker than 1/8 to minimize cracking. I did notice on the first normalizing cycle, i put it in the forge to cool and it slipped off the back rest block and warped. No biggie, planned on 2 cycles before i clay and cook it. I will have it nice and straight before then. Mind you, i have never held a Yanagiba(or really any other japanese knife for that matter), and am unsure.


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## Mike Davis (Aug 22, 2011)

Ok so this weeks lesson....Hollow forged back with a chisel grind.....Makes a crazy warp!!!!
I did some clean up on the grinder, just removing some of the scale from forging, nothing excessive. The edge is at over 1/8th inch right now. Did 3 normalizing heats, clay coated and quenched in water(GASP!) for 3-4 seconds and then into oil for the remainder....It warped in the oil, not in the water, and i plunged it in edge first straight as can be....and wow...just wow lmao.






If i can't get it straight, i will start another and not forge it. I will HT before any grinding....LOL this is the best i have ever had warp wise....


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## SpikeC (Aug 22, 2011)

Did you try clamping it on a straight bar when tempering?


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## jmforge (Aug 22, 2011)

Even before signing up for this forum, I heard people say that trying to heat treat a single bevel blade that had the bevel ground in before HT can be an exercise in frustration.


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## Mike Davis (Aug 23, 2011)

It has went through a 3 hour temper clamped between 2 1"x1/2" bars...Hoping that with a few tempering cycles,. i can get this straight. If not, i will start over, It is in the oven cooling right now....Next time is straight profile, HT then grind.....No crazy forging lol


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