# Removing scratches from sharpening/thinning



## perneto (Jan 27, 2013)

How do you do it? What do you use?

Do you have a special technique for damascus cladding?


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## Ucmd (Jan 27, 2013)

i'd love to have a step by step method of removing scratches as well. i scratched up my kono cause i forgot to flatten stones before use.


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## ThEoRy (Jan 27, 2013)

Automotive wet dry sandpaper in increasingly high grits, then micromesh pads. What you do on one side you have to do on the other even if it isn't scratched in order to achieve a uniform finish. Then re etch, then sharpen. I did this on my ironwood Tanaka 240mm after thinning behind the edge. Scary stuff.


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## labor of love (Jan 27, 2013)

do you keep the auto paper and mesh pads dry or do you load them with something? btw perneto i do exactly what theory says and it works great. it does take some practice to make a consistent scratch pattern.


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## Benuser (Jan 27, 2013)

Work in one direction only, horizontally is by far the easiest. Make sure to stay away from the very edge.


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## Ucmd (Jan 27, 2013)

Could someone post grits to use in order of use and how to re etch. Also a link to the correct auto paper for sand paper or mesh pads.


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## EdipisReks (Jan 27, 2013)

Ucmd said:


> Could someone post grits to use in order of use and how to re etch. Also a link to the correct auto paper for sand paper or mesh pads.



wet/dry, doesn't matter what brand. start with 220, then 400, then 800. Dave has an etching guide, somewhere... i'd be happy to show you how to do it, Ucmd, since we live fairly close to each other.


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## ThEoRy (Jan 27, 2013)

Well, the grit level really depends on how deeply you've scratched the blade. Really you should start at the level that scratches out the scratches you originally made. If that makes any sense. As for the micro mesh pads, just hit up amazon.


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## EdipisReks (Jan 27, 2013)

ThEoRy said:


> Well, the grit level really depends on how deeply you've scratched the blade. Really you should start at the level that scratches out the scratches you originally made. If that makes any sense. As for the micro mesh pads, just hit up amazon.



that's the theory, but i find that 220/400/800 pretty much does it.


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## ThEoRy (Jan 27, 2013)

Sounds about right. I once slipped with a dremmel while rounding my yo-deba and had to go from 60 grit!!! Yeah, that sucked.


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## perneto (Jan 27, 2013)

Re-etching is only for damascus claddings, right? No need for that for plain claddings?


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## ThEoRy (Jan 27, 2013)

Yup. Or carbon you want to darken like the Hiromoto as line.


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## labor of love (Jan 27, 2013)

these are the pads i use.http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ELH7AI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


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## EdipisReks (Jan 27, 2013)

perneto said:


> Re-etching is only for damascus claddings, right? No need for that for plain claddings?



that's a misconception: etching will remove scratches, regardless if the cladding is kitaeji or no.


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## Patatas Bravas (Jan 27, 2013)

labor of love said:


> these are the pads i use.http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ELH7AI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20



Thank you for this. Is there also some special auto paper used for the 220, 400, 800?

Also, will you guys use also these papers to finish debas? (not so higher grits) In the concave back side of debas, there is often a nice finish in a diagonal direction with lines


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## labor of love (Jan 27, 2013)

Patatas Bravas said:


> Is there also some special auto paper used for the 220, 400, 800?


the stuff i use i just pick up at autozone. youll know it when you see it.


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## mc2442 (Jan 27, 2013)

One of the things I love about the memebers of this site, Edipis casually offering to show a new member how to do it. Everyone is always willing to go above and beyond to help others.


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## perneto (Jan 28, 2013)

EdipisReks said:


> that's a misconception: etching will remove scratches, regardless if the cladding is kitaeji or no.



Interesting, could you explain why that is?


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## perneto (Jan 28, 2013)

Also, with a damascus cladding, is it really essential to re-etch after polishing out scratches? I'm trying to decide whether damascus is too high-maintenance for me or not.


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## EdipisReks (Jan 28, 2013)

perneto said:


> Interesting, could you explain why that is?



because it's acid. on knives that aren't damascus, the etch gives a more even finish (once you've polished it pos- etch, anyway: flitz and fine sandpaper work well).


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## EdipisReks (Jan 28, 2013)

perneto said:


> Also, with a damascus cladding, is it really essential to re-etch after polishing out scratches? I'm trying to decide whether damascus is too high-maintenance for me or not.



it's only essential if you want to bring out the pattern. and there are other ways to do it. when i owned a Yoshikane kitaeji knife, i used a King 800 followed by fine sandpaper, instead of etching, though you have to be careful to not mess up the geometry of the blade, if you use stones.


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## Patatas Bravas (Jan 29, 2013)

EdipisReks said:


> because it's acid. on knives that aren't damascus, the etch gives a more even finish (once you've polished it pos- etch, anyway: flitz and fine sandpaper work well).



Sorry if maybe some body already said this but which acid is used for etching?


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## EdipisReks (Jan 29, 2013)

Patatas Bravas said:


> Sorry if maybe some body already said this but which acid is used for etching?



PCB etchant, sometimes diluted with white vinegar or water, is most commonly used, i'd say.


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## Patatas Bravas (Jan 29, 2013)

Hey, thank you. And how long is a knife usually inside the acid as you know?


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## ThEoRy (Jan 29, 2013)

Get the etchant from Radio Shack and some distilled water or distilled white vinegar. I make about a 50/50 mix, have to be careful pouring it together. Pour the vinegar in first then the acid. I usually dip it several minutes at a time until the desired effect is achieved. I always go darker than you would think since some of it comes off after neutralizing. Here's the original how to thread.http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/6474-Damascus-Knives-amp-Re-Etchng

Here's a Kagayaki I recently etched.http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/9458-Kagayaki-Etched?highlight=Kagayaki


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## Patatas Bravas (Jan 29, 2013)

Very nice  Thank you again for the help


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## ThEoRy (Jan 29, 2013)

I forgot that you have to sharpen after etching and cleaning since the acid eats away the edge. So don't sharpen first since you will have to do it after anyway.


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## wsfarrell (Jan 29, 2013)

I use a piece of PVC pipe, sealed at one end, to do this. The first time I did it in the kitchen, the fumes put a fine coat of rust on every carbon knife on a Mag-Blok 15 feet away. I would strongly urge doing this outdoors.


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## Patatas Bravas (Jan 29, 2013)

Haha, that is a good thing to know!


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## shaneg (Jan 29, 2013)

mc2442 said:


> One of the things I love about the memebers of this site, Edipis casually offering to show a new member how to do it. Everyone is always willing to go above and beyond to help others.



Yeah ive noticed that, its good.

Im on another forum, (not knife related) and if someone new asks a question the first 5 replies are usually "have you searched"
"not another one"
"noob"
fu*ken search before asking"
"this gets asked once a day, use the search function *********"


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## ThEoRy (Jan 29, 2013)

shaneg said:


> Yeah ive noticed that, its good.
> 
> Im on another forum, (not knife related) and if someone new asks a question the first 5 replies are usually "have you searched"
> "not another one"
> ...



My favorite is this...

"Here's a helpful link on the subject http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site:kitchenknifeforums.com+how+to+etch+"
Bwahahahaha...


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## EdipisReks (Jan 29, 2013)

Patatas Bravas said:


> Hey, thank you. And how long is a knife usually inside the acid as you know?



what ThEoRy said.


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