# New sharpening station inputs and pics requested



## goatgolfer (Aug 24, 2015)

I am about to establish my work station away from the kitchen sink. My starting concepts are 0. card table size 1. readily available stuff 2. Water is portable 3. capturing swarf in a basin can be discarded and doesn't plug the drain 4. seated with overhead lighting is preferred.

Basics I have: Water, a bucket, lots of kitchen towel/rags, 2x4s, The JKS beginner kit (Atoma 140 Diamond Plate, Beston 500,Bester 1200,Suehiro Rika 5k,Felt Strop with Diamond Spray), a knife, desire, reasonable dexterity, *AND* a B&D workmate. Desk lamp and O/H fluorescent for lighting.

I located used 1/3 size - 6" deep, stainless hotel pan, a 12x20x2.5 cambro hotel pan, a sterlite tub to keep the stones wet perpetually.

Technique inputs from Martell DVDs, Jon/Carter/Kramer/YT videos and lots of KFF forum discussions (and making a mess on my own near the sink thus the migration)

Now, this is where you guys come in. 

Observations: Carter uses a grey tote about the size of a cambro and works the long way. Jon uses the identical cambro in some videos.
As a bridge, a 2x4 longer than the length with notches cut at 20" to keep it from forward/back motion
Kitchen towels/non-slip shelf liner for under the stone
A secondary, handy water source (1/3 hotel pan for me)

Setup: Try non-slip shelf liner on the flat of the B&D, or open the jaws of the workmate just wide enough for the cambro to fit between the lugs the long way. This probably means stops at both ends so I dont have to crank down on the jaws. If that doesn't work make a "holder" for the cambro that blocks fore/aft (or a better idea from you guys).

Make a mess...

Inputs, ideas and PICS of your setup and what you like and would do differently are really appreciated. No pictures yet from me because all my stuff is off the shelf. But, I promise to post the prototype.


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## Mucho Bocho (Aug 24, 2015)

This is my set-up. 1/4 shallow hotel pan with Jon's stone bridge under a Suehiro deluxe stone holder holding a JKI stone holder. In this case its holding the JKI 6000 Diamond stone. Soaking is the Suehiro 5K and 1000 bester. I love this setup although I've since gone with only splash and go stones. Rock solid and can be packed up and put in my kit for storage when I'm finished sharpeing.


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## ThEoRy (Aug 24, 2015)

I found a plastic basin and fashioned a plank of wood to bridge across it. There's no water in it, just a gold mine of stone dust. There is however a plastic fish tub right next to it which houses my stones. 

Here's my station in action.

[video=youtube;bMW5vJ4krPE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bMW5vJ4krPE[/video]


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## goatgolfer (Aug 24, 2015)

So Far too cool. Thanks for the pic and video. The swarf in ThEoRy is just a myth, or is it a hypothesis? We'll have to test it to find out.

- A Math joke for those that like them.


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## goatgolfer (Aug 24, 2015)

This is the setup I was trying to copy on my sharpening station. In my original post I said the long way of the cambro but it's clear the short was is Jon's setup.
In the video: Non-slip shelf liner under cambro, bridge and stone holder short side (2X4 & non-slip again for me) and water.

[video=youtube;I-POg4dG784]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I-POg4dG784[/video]


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## daveb (Aug 24, 2015)

If you use a 9" cambro you can sous vide dinner while sharpening :angel2:

Actually I use pretty much the same setup when away from home. Though I have a 1/3 pan to keep stones and flattener in.


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## goatgolfer (Aug 24, 2015)

Daveb: Your post alludes to a home/away setup. Do you have a pic of your home setup?


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## daveb (Aug 24, 2015)

Pretty simple. Yard sale poly board (won't warp) cut to fit sink. Suehiro stone holder at incline. Stone. 1/3 pan to hold stones not in use. Slurry goes down the drain - not ideal but...


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## Adrian (Aug 25, 2015)

Interesting. I have a bridge and an adjustable rubber stone holder, neither of which I use. I dampen a blue J cloth (not sure what they are called in the US) and lay it over my prep board (which is very large and thick, and will not move). Stone on the damp cloth so it doesn't move. Small stainless steel watering can to wet the stones (which I will have already run under the tap or soaked as necessary. Quick and easy.


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## spoiledbroth (Aug 25, 2015)

Poly boards don't warp? Since when...


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## goatgolfer (Aug 25, 2015)

Adrian said:


> Interesting. I have a bridge and an adjustable rubber stone holder, neither of which I use. I dampen a blue J cloth (not sure what they are called in the US) and lay it over my prep board (which is very large and thick, and will not move). Stone on the damp cloth so it doesn't move. Small stainless steel watering can to wet the stones (which I will have already run under the tap or soaked as necessary. Quick and easy.



It appears that J cloth are Handi-wipes in the US. Do you just wipe off the swarf from the board or does the J cloth serve two purposes: non-slip and swarf catcher?


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## TurboScooter (Aug 25, 2015)

Mucho Bocho said:


> This is my set-up. 1/4 shallow hotel pan with Jon's stone bridge under a Suehiro deluxe stone holder holding a JKI stone holder. In this case its holding the JKI 6000 Diamond stone. Soaking is the Suehiro 5K and 1000 bester. I love this setup although I've since gone with only splash and go stones. Rock solid and can be packed up and put in my kit for storage when I'm finished sharpeing.
> 
> 
> View attachment 28782



Is the double stone holder setup to get extra height? Or some other reason?


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## Mucho Bocho (Aug 25, 2015)

Turbo, It just fits together very securely this way.


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## daveb (Aug 25, 2015)

spoiledbroth said:


> Poly boards don't warp? Since when...



American poly doesn't warp. Can't speak to Canadian poly. :cool2: Of course this is poly relative to wood - the most frequent alternative for sharpening bases - and providing you don't put it in the dishwasher. The pic is at least two years old and I still use the same setup. Everything is a little gray now but fits like it was made for it.


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## DSChief (Aug 25, 2015)

Here's my setup ,since the Wife kicked me out of the kitchen






next up is stone selection


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## dblnickels (Aug 25, 2015)

+1 on the Mucho Bocho/JKI setup. 
It's what I use at the restaurant with Gesshin soakers. Always ready and
takes up very little space.


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## panda (Aug 25, 2015)

ive gone from sink bridge, to the hotel pan rig, and now a minimum of just a suehiro water catcher and free standing blocks, cheap and effective. use tupperware full of water beside it. work setup is 2 chosera stones with base built in used with a rag underneath. back 2 basics. still using jnats at home though, can't seem to give up the superior feedback.


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## Asteger (Aug 25, 2015)

DSChief said:


> Here's my setup ,since the Wife kicked me out of the kitchen...



Me, I've never really been in the kitchen. I'm not sure why so many people stand when they sharpen anyway. In a pro kitchen, sure okay, necessity. But you can make things more comfortable at home.

Anyway, my main issue was solved recently by making more room for my stuff. Here's a shot. I don't stand and sharpen there, though. Much better to sit with things near chest-level I think, so I tend to sit at a table (including my desk) or even on the floor.






Because I usually use naturals, I don't need to have stones soaking around me. I'll just get a small bowl of water, a stone or two, and a Suehiro tray or non-slip mat (or holder for thin stones) and a towel. If I were to do things at a sink, I'd much rather make my own typical wooden bridge and use a non-slip mat on it. The produced sink bridges always seemed unnecessary, a bit expensive, and not as good as just using a wood bridge. (All that adjusting; that open bit in the middle between adjustable ends.)


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## goatgolfer (Aug 25, 2015)

DSChief said:


> Here's my setup ,since the Wife kicked me out of the kitchen
> 
> 
> 
> ...



DS: Does your wood bridge have a shark fin on the bottom? Does it touch the cambro or is it above the plastic? Do you put water in the bottom of the cambro to make swarf cleaning easier or just wipe it out afterwards? Is Craftsman TB + 6" cambro + wood bridge + stone = elbows parallel to the floor for you standing?


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## goatgolfer (Aug 25, 2015)

For those of you that can't post a pic will you at least comment about Sit/Stand -- flat/angled stone -- if inclined: is the high end towards you or away from you?:O


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## _PixelNinja (Aug 25, 2015)

I prefer to stand and I have my stones set up at a negative angle (further end lower) ever since Jon suggested it to me.


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## panda (Aug 25, 2015)

prefer standing, with end closest to me higher than the front.


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## DSChief (Aug 25, 2015)

DS: Does your wood bridge have a shark fin on the bottom? Does it touch the cambro or is it above the plastic? Do you put water in the bottom of the cambro to make swarf cleaning easier or just wipe it out afterwards? Is Craftsman TB + 6" cambro + wood bridge + stone = elbows parallel to the floor for you standing? 

The Bridge has a wood cleat on each end, It is just pushed over the lip of the Cambro /W a rag or hunk of mat to take up any slop.

I usually put a couple of Qts. of water in the tub to pre soak the next stone in progression & to splash the mounted stone.

The setup is a bit Hi for Optimal use, but I'm not sharpening all day , & at 6' 5" my elbows are a bit higher off the ground


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## Matus (Aug 26, 2015)

I basically copied Jon's approach. It works very well.









After sharpening I allow the mudy water to clear, slowly pour away the water and collect the mud with paper napkin as I do not want to risk clogging the pipes.


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## berko (Aug 26, 2015)

whats that gesshin stone matus?


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## Adrian (Aug 26, 2015)

I stand. Prefer the stone level. Swap hands. Tend to sharpen several knives in one go, so they all get a run through each stone (if they need it), swap to next stone, some go on to finer polishing stones, then strop. I tend to have a polishing stone and stop to hand pretty often as I like to keep the edge fine - nothing is allowed to get that far away from properly sharp.


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## Matus (Aug 26, 2015)

berko said:


> whats that gesshin stone matus?



I suppose you mean the one mounted on the base and reinforced on sides with origami paper - it is Gesshin 6000. I was miss-treating it (soaking and drying too often) and it developed light cracks along the edges. Not too bad (the stone was not falling apart yet), but I wanted to be on the safe side. I should have read the description on JKI webpage properly - this stone can be permasoaked or used as splash-and-go, but it should not be soaked and dried with every sharpening session.


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## Dave Martell (Aug 26, 2015)

DSChief said:


> Here's my setup ,since the Wife kicked me out of the kitchen
> 
> 
> 
> ...




How do you like your Coote? I couldn't say enough good things about mine. Yeah it's simple but very sturdy and reliable, runs super smooth too.


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## Dave Martell (Aug 26, 2015)

I sit when I sharpen. My set up is a very expensive adjustable height dog grooming table with a dedicated true daylight lamp/magnifier. I have a half height cinder block sitting on the table to give me the correct height and table clearance. This table has been through the ringer over the years and it's still holding strong. I like this a lot because it's mobile and VERY sturdy - no wobble at all - unlike every other table I've ever used.


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## _PixelNinja (Aug 26, 2015)

Any chances of you posting a picture of your setup Dave?


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## DSChief (Aug 26, 2015)

Dave Martell said:


> How do you like your Coote? I couldn't say enough good things about mine. Yeah it's simple but very sturdy and reliable, runs super smooth too.



Love the Coote, But the real star of the show is the reversible, variable speed Motor Controller.

I haven't done any edge work on my knives with it. But have experimented with thinning a couple of German style blades, By running Low Rpm's & Laying the blade Flat against the Platen. Attempting to turn an Almond shaped cross-section into a Blade of Grass. Have repaired a couple of broken tips
with decent results for a beginner.


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## goatgolfer (Aug 26, 2015)

Dave Martell said:


> I sit when I sharpen. My set up is a very expensive adjustable height dog grooming table with a dedicated true daylight lamp/magnifier. I have a half height cinder block sitting on the table to give me the correct height and table clearance. This table has been through the ringer over the years and it's still holding strong. I like this a lot because it's mobile and VERY sturdy - no wobble at all - unlike every other table I've ever used.



Don't know how I missed this ancient quote but it shows one Pro's stone selection. http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/s...harpening-Equipment-for-you?highlight=suehiro


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## zitangy (Aug 27, 2015)

Prefer standing up as i believe that if i sit.. the stone and knife wld be ard chest level whilst standing up.. it wld be ard waist level and hence more weight of hand on the knife and can exert more when desired.. I have more flexibility in playing with the pressure applied on the knife to the stone.

If i am just stropping it.. stone or leather ... it doesnt not make a diff.

rgds d


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## brooksie967 (Aug 27, 2015)

Standing is the way to go! I just use my stone holder and throw a towel under it usually. If i'm going to be doing a lot of steel removal on a busted knife or rusty mess then I'll get some kind of tray like have been shown to collect all the junk


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## goatgolfer (Aug 28, 2015)

brooksie967 said:


> Standing is the way to go! I just use my stone holder and throw a towel under it usually. If i'm going to be doing a lot of steel removal on a busted knife or rusty mess then I'll get some kind of tray like have been shown to collect all the junk



I don't really have a strong opinion about sitting or standing [not enough experience, that's why I started the thread] and Dave M. has commented about his ability to change the height of his work to accommodate sitting. But, it seems to me that sinks don't generally go up and down but cambros can if you just keep putting books under the table legs or cinder blocks under the stone.

So, no one has said *WHY* they prefer or must use sit/stand and if they had a choice. As a plant engineer doing process stuff (and kitchen work) making the work at bent elbow height was the least tiring but not necessarily the best leverage for long sessions. And, then you have the positive or negative angle of the stone. Is that a leverage issue or [it seems to me] a way to keep the stone/knife angle consistent through the stroke. 

I am hoping that Jon B is following this thread about tools and technique when given a choice or the means to create that work station.

Pics are still invited. If you look at the posts/responses they have elicited the most exchange of ideas. Even to the point of belt sander discussions. How COOL!


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## spoiledbroth (Aug 30, 2015)

Mucho Bocho said:


> This is my set-up. 1/4 shallow hotel pan with Jon's stone bridge under a Suehiro deluxe stone holder holding a JKI stone holder. In this case its holding the JKI 6000 Diamond stone. Soaking is the Suehiro 5K and 1000 bester. I love this setup although I've since gone with only splash and go stones. Rock solid and can be packed up and put in my kit for storage when I'm finished sharpeing.
> 
> 
> View attachment 28782



this is a bloody clever modification of jons setup... I like. Though I don't get the double stoneholder thing.


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## JBroida (Aug 30, 2015)

the double stone holder allows for stones with less height to be used in the setup more easily, and allows you to use the stones to a thinner point before having to mount them on something

@goatgolfer did you have a specific question you wanted me to answer?


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## daveb (Aug 30, 2015)

The top stone holder is for the diamond plates. It has very short walls so that you can access the relatively short stone. The Suehiro stone holder provides height to the stone set up and functions as a normal stone holder.


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## brooksie967 (Aug 30, 2015)

goatgolfer said:


> I don't really have a strong opinion about sitting or standing [not enough experience, that's why I started the thread] and Dave M. has commented about his ability to change the height of his work to accommodate sitting. But, it seems to me that sinks don't generally go up and down but cambros can if you just keep putting books under the table legs or cinder blocks under the stone.
> 
> So, no one has said *WHY* they prefer or must use sit/stand and if they had a choice. As a plant engineer doing process stuff (and kitchen work) making the work at bent elbow height was the least tiring but not necessarily the best leverage for long sessions. And, then you have the positive or negative angle of the stone. Is that a leverage issue or [it seems to me] a way to keep the stone/knife angle consistent through the stroke.
> 
> ...



I prefer standing for a few reasons but mainly my back. Sitting in an office chair/the most comfortable chair available still isn't as good for your back/body as standing. If I was sharpening knives 8 hours a day I'd probably want to sit but since it's for my own personal knives/straight razors only I find everything about the standing position to feel better.


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## _PixelNinja (Aug 30, 2015)

I also prefer to stand because I have better posture in that position. I would tend to adopt a bad position when sitting.


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## goatgolfer (Aug 30, 2015)

JBroida said:


> the double stone holder allows for stones with less height to be used in the setup more easily, and allows you to use the stones to a thinner point before having to mount them on something
> 
> @goatgolfer did you have a specific question you wanted me to answer?



Konichiwa @Jon-san: My questions are about two elements in the sharpening video near the start of this thread. Is the stone canted to the rear to achieve a certain knife/stone angle that the arm presents as it extends and, you are standing in the videos. Other than for photographic reasons, is it for some kind of leverage or similar to (1) to keep the arm+hand motion in some relative relation to the stone? Thanks.


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## JBroida (Aug 30, 2015)

its actually pretty simple... its about 3 things (none of which are the specific angle it is held at, which is far less important):

1. Water control... when the stone is tilted, water doesnt pool up. So, in order to keep the stone wet, all i need to do is splash some water at the top (the taller side).

2. Ergonomics... it seems that when the stone is parallel to the work surface, peoples wrists have a tendency to tilt back towards them as they push away from themselves. The slight downward angle minimizes this and makes the motion a bit easier.

3. Its what my masters do... yeah... this one is simple. The guys i train under all sharpen this way, so until i'm as good as they are, i'm going to just do what they tell me 

Really, if you want to sharpen with the stone flat on a surface, thats totally fine. Nothing wrong with that at all... and you will even see that kind of sharpening done by some craftsmen in certain parts of japan.

-Jon


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## goatgolfer (Aug 31, 2015)

JBroida said:


> its actually pretty simple... its about 3 things (none of which are the specific angle it is held at, which is far less important):
> 
> 1. Water control... when the stone is tilted, water doesnt pool up. So, in order to keep the stone wet, all i need to do is splash some water at the top (the taller side).
> 
> ...



Dr. Deming taught "Learn from the master not the student". One element you didn't touch on was standing v. sitting. Asians are seen sharpening seated on the floor (the Korin videos if none else) and there are daily personal situations where that is physically and culturally comfortable with the opposite for occidentals. Your videos show you standing. Convenience or technique? -Goat


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## JBroida (Aug 31, 2015)

most guys in sakai kneel or sit while sharpening, while some of my teachers in other areas stand while sharpening. I've asked about this, and its about finding a comfortable height of the stones relative to one's body. My setup is designed to fit my size best. You will find what works for you best and use that. So, the main point is find the height that fits you best, instead of worrying about standing or sitting.

The kind of setup that my sakai sharpening masters use puts a lot of strain on my lower back, so i prefer to stand. I specifically asked them what they thought about this, and they totally thought it was pointless to worry about.

When we recently had a sakai based dento kougei-shi sharpener in the store doing a demo (he's a few inches shorter than me, and i'm not tall), we had to adjust my sharpening station to fit him. We removed the hotel pans and used our basic stone holder with base setup, which reduced the height of the stone by about 3-4 inches. That was enough.


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## goatgolfer (Aug 31, 2015)

JBroida said:


> most guys in sakai kneel or sit while sharpening, while some of my teachers in other areas stand while sharpening. I've asked about this, and its about finding a comfortable height of the stones relative to one's body. My setup is designed to fit my size best. You will find what works for you best and use that. So, the main point is find the height that fits you best, instead of worrying about standing or sitting.
> 
> The kind of setup that my sakai sharpening masters use puts a lot of strain on my lower back, so i prefer to stand. I specifically asked them what they thought about this, and they totally thought it was pointless to worry about.
> 
> When we recently had a sakai based dento kougei-shi sharpener in the store doing a demo (he's a few inches shorter than me, and i'm not tall), we had to adjust my sharpening station to fit him. We removed the hotel pans and used our basic stone holder with base setup, which reduced the height of the stone by about 3-4 inches. That was enough.



Finally! Find the work position that is comfortable for what you're doing and how long you're going to do it. No magic. Pretty cool when it's boiled down. Thank you Jon.


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## JBroida (Aug 31, 2015)

no prob... glad to be of service


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## Chuckles (Aug 31, 2015)

My sharpening set up is a total mess right now but I was in the basement rooting around so here's a pic. I use an adjustable stool so I can sit or stand depending on the mood and what I am working on. I usually have a rubber-made tub for perma-soaking my synthetic stones but it is missing right now. Also I have found those pans that are kinda third pans that are just a bit shorter fit well in a fish box and I usually use that but it is missing right now too. Second pic is out in the garage.


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## daveb (Aug 31, 2015)

Good thing the garage isn't missing:clown:


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## Chuckles (Aug 31, 2015)

Found one. Thinge that store stones fit remote controls well too. :clown:


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## goatgolfer (Aug 31, 2015)

Re: Chuckles sharpening setup (pic 1): Observations: a) full pitcher of dark liquid - contents unknown b) two bottles of micron stropping spray c) >10 stones but no water in sight c) TWO tape measures d) boning knife of unknown provenance e) substantial axe. Normally Chuckles posts well choreographed pictures of projects in action. Here we see the heart of the man. Thus, the signature finally comes into 3D and color. 

Thanks for the pics. That's what I think most of the pics would look like if others had the fortitude to share the engine room.


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## Chuckles (Sep 1, 2015)

A) Pitcher is diluted ferric chloride for etching. 
B) Diamond spray from Dave. Unused.
C) Stones in the background are the soakers. Foreground are naturals, Diamond stones and plate, plus balsa strop. 
C.1) two tape measures. I dunno, neither do millimeters.
D) Forschner 6" semi stiff
E) Wetterlings - I think it's the backcountry axe. In desperate need of love.


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## mark76 (Sep 2, 2015)

This is a great thread! I've started reading it just today because I was on holiday. My setup is also basically the same as Jon's (copy from the master...) and I stand.

However, because of back problems I've started to experiment with other positions, sitting. I haven't read at what height you guys do this, when sitting. This is rather tricky, I've found out. Anyone who can tell me what's the most comfortable sitting position/height for you? (And if Jon is reading this, what sitting position/height do the guys in Sakai use?)

Also, is there anyone who knows of YT videos of people sharpening while sitting?


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## JBroida (Sep 2, 2015)

i cant say off the top of my head, but i'll try to take lots of pics when i'm there in october


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## cave_dweller (Sep 2, 2015)

mark76 said:


> Also, is there anyone who knows of YT videos of people sharpening while sitting?



I've seen one of the Korin guys doing a YT sharpening tutorial while sitting. Here you go... 

[video=youtube;JCYI7lk3eKY]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JCYI7lk3eKY[/video]


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## Asteger (Sep 2, 2015)

mark76 said:


> However, because of back problems I've started to experiment with other positions, sitting. I haven't read at what height you guys do this, when sitting. This is rather tricky, I've found out. Anyone who can tell me what's the most comfortable sitting position/height for you? (And if Jon is reading this, what sitting position/height do the guys in Sakai use?)



I guess for me the stone would be a bit below chest height or even chest height, and my arms can move back and forth parallel to the table, so not at an downward angle. 

About the earlier discussion on tilting stones, I think this is an issue (and works well) if you use synth stones and you don't want the water/slurry to pool up, as was said. However, this is often exactly what you want to do if using naturals, and so the tilting tip would generally be bad advice with naturals where it's all about working up, managing and maintaining the right consistency of slurry, although a very slight tilt maybe doesn't make much difference. Ergonomics-wise, I agree if you're sharpening with the stone well below your chest (say, if you're a stander) then tilting helps maintain a better back-forth motion and consistent angle. So two reasons I like the stone at a higher level, as at near chest-level my forearms aren't at that downward angle, and it is more probably more useful to a natural stone user who needs stones to be level so the slurry doesn't run off the stone, depending on the stone.


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## JBroida (Sep 2, 2015)

Asteger said:


> I guess for me the stone would be a bit below chest height or even chest height, and my arms can move back and forth parallel to the table, so not at an downward angle.
> 
> About the earlier discussion on tilting stones, I think this is an issue (and works well) if you use synth stones and you don't want the water/slurry to pool up, as was said. However, this is often exactly what you want to do if using naturals, and so the tilting tip would generally be bad advice with naturals where it's all about working up, managing and maintaining the right consistency of slurry, although a very slight tilt maybe doesn't make much difference. Ergonomics-wise, I agree if you're sharpening with the stone well below your chest (say, if you're a stander) then tilting helps maintain a better back-forth motion and consistent angle. So two reasons I like the stone at a higher level, as at near chest-level my forearms aren't at that downward angle, and it is more probably more useful to a natural stone user who needs stones to be level so the slurry doesn't run off the stone, depending on the stone.



actually, most people in japan even use naturals at an angle... the mud is easy to develop that way too, and its much more about water control than the angle. If you dont add too much, it works great. Just FYI.

(i use naturals in my normal setup all of the time, as do many of the craftsmen i train under)


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## Asteger (Sep 3, 2015)

Works fine with softer stones (Takeshima, most aoto, the JNS 'red/green aoto', etc) agreed, and can even be desireable with the mudfest ones (monzen, perhaps). It's true, most knife people prefer stones like this. However, for me it's more of an issue with the harder stones - not just finishers (I tend not to try hard fine finishers on a knife), but with stiffer medium/coarse naturals: Aizu, Numata, Iyo, kishu (Wakayama omura). Sometimes just a little water, then the slurry, and with some like this the wet-dry slurry balance is too delicate. Overall, though, with many naturals, you'll be pausing to add water more often than necessary if the stone's non-slightly tilted. (And not to forget many naturals are slightly tilted already, due to irregular cutting.)


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## JBroida (Sep 3, 2015)

fair enough... totally get where you are coming from


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## mark76 (Sep 3, 2015)

Thanks, cave_dwellar! That is a very useful vid.

Thanks Jon as well, I'm really looking forward to your pics in october.

The vids I've seen until now were about ppl sitting in a tailors position (is this proper english?) If anyone could point me to images/vids/or any other info a sharpening position while sitting on a chair at a table, that'd be highly appreciated.


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## jer (Sep 3, 2015)

[video=youtube;x9zX239JgKo]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9zX239JgKo[/video]

and here beginning around 6:40:

[video=youtube;zNPc6xBBiLk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNPc6xBBiLk[/video]


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## goatgolfer (Sep 3, 2015)

Chuckles said:


> My sharpening set up is a total mess right now but I was in the basement rooting around so here's a pic. I use an adjustable stool so I can sit or stand depending on the mood and what I am working on. I usually have a rubber-made tub for perma-soaking my synthetic stones but it is missing right now. Also I have found those pans that are kinda third pans that are just a bit shorter fit well in a fish box and I usually use that but it is missing right now too. Second pic is out in the garage.



Since Chuckles showed his, I'll show mine. Just out of view is my Sterlite with the stones soaking. The white thing is the sterlite lid, center island with a plastic wrap base coat and the island chairs make my elbows parallel to the stone(s). My $25 cleaver is in view and because I'm behind the camera you can't see I'm not chuckling... More badgerish in my pursuit but it's a start and influenced by all of your pics and comments. Thanks for helping with ver 0.2.


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## goatgolfer (Sep 5, 2015)

View attachment 28877


Forgot the pictures from previous post


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## brooksie967 (Sep 5, 2015)

One of the guys on a FB group I belong to posted this absolutely spectacular honing station:


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## _PixelNinja (Sep 5, 2015)

Wow! Spectacular is the word indeed.


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## goatgolfer (Sep 5, 2015)

I think the _PixelNinja's avatar is seeing family members. On my monitor just the top of the avatar showed when I was looking at the wood sculpture posing as sharpening station and I thought the avatar was a schematic or something. Try it.:bigeek:


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## mark76 (Sep 6, 2015)

Thanks, Jer! Very nice vids!

By the way, I love those sharpening stations that look almost like indoor ponds (like in Jer's Shigefusa vid and others). And brooksie's pic is just spectacular!


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## goatgolfer (Sep 7, 2015)

Well, it's been a fun weekend for me. I started the Kitchen Knife saga with Dave M at the old forum, migrated here, bought the Beston/Bester/Suehiro Rika/Felt package and a Tojiro DP Gyuto 240 mm and stalled. Facing the daunting surplus of information and how "hard" J-knives were [pun intended] I muddled along and then after Mr. T got unserviceably dull I paid a Michigan pro to revive him.

Well, I started the "what does your station look like" post to get past the gear excuse. And it worked.

Over the past 7 days I have tried to sharpen a cheap cleaver, a Wusthof 150mm utility and a Forschner paring knife and failed 6 days in a row. Following confirmation that my stones were good [both sets], setup was similar to people that can sharpen [check], I embarked.

Day 1 - spent the 45 minutes trying to created an edge on the 5K suehiro thinking it was a 500 Beston. No love until I figured it out. Put the gear away . Day 2. Call Jason B [referred by CKTG] and he spent 1.5 hours on the phone confirming the mechanics of the goal; make the two sides meet in an apex. The rest will work itself out but you can cut food again. Day 3. Find Mark Richmond's early videos where he uses the identical stone kit as I have on a Victorinox Chef's knife. I instantlyrealize I haven't spent even close to enough time establishing an edge. Now the rookie aspect of that is in ALL the videos I have watched but somehow that wasn't about me... Yesterday, establishing the angle is harder than I thought but using the reflection of the overhead light I can see where I wobbled. Today, I slow down, concentrate on the consistency of the angle and POOF - I can cut paper. 

A long way to go but thank you to all those that encouraged and cajoled including Dave M (via dvd),daveb, Cheflarge, Chuckles, Jason B, Jon, and Mark R.

I don't need to invest anything more than some time and less coffee to get my skills up to where I no longer have an excuse for why my food isn't what I envisioned.

Best of all this is fun now.


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## daveb (Sep 7, 2015)

Less coffee is never a good answer.


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## panda (Sep 7, 2015)

by the way, it helps to get the slurry started with a mini dmt slurry plate as you will remove metal quicker and get results versus going for 10minutes and nothing seems to be happening.


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## goatgolfer (Sep 7, 2015)

panda said:


> by the way, it helps to get the slurry started with a mini dmt slurry plate as you will remove metal quicker and get results versus going for 10minutes and nothing seems to be happening.



I had used the DMT XXC plate to "wake up" the new stones. Does the mini have special properties or just more convenient. Slurry level and why is my next study because Mark R. has dripping water on his 500Beston & 1000 Bester thus making the sink a good place. Drats, back to the sink again.


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## panda (Sep 7, 2015)

xxc is just fine, use it to build up that thick liquid on top of the stone before you start sharpening.


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## BHolcombe (Sep 13, 2015)

brooksie967 said:


> One of the guys on a FB group I belong to posted this absolutely spectacular honing station:



I believe that is William Ng's workshop.


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## kohtachi (Sep 14, 2015)

BHolcombe said:


> I believe that is William Ng's workshop.


Wow that looks just amazing.


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## mqphoto (Apr 10, 2016)

DSChief said:


> Here's my setup ,since the Wife kicked me out of the kitchen
> 
> 
> 
> ...




Do you own more stones than this now? =)


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