# Synthetic nagura on naturals



## khashy (May 19, 2017)

This is probably a bit of a noob question, but I suppose that's what I am with naturals.

I'm getting a Nakayama suita and I think I might need to use a nagura with it(haven't received it yet so I'm not sure).

I don't have a natural nagura but have one of these things:

https://www.knivesandtools.co.uk/en/pt/-naniwa-nagura-stone.htm

Can I use this on a natural? Is there any point or do I have to start looking for a tomo nagura or something similar?


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## Benuser (May 19, 2017)

Give it a try. Works well with a Belgian coticule. Not with my Belgian blue, which is much harder and abrades a bit of the nagura. Check the colour of the slurry and the nagura surface.


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## khashy (May 19, 2017)

Benuser said:


> Give it a try. Works well with a Belgian coticule. Not with my Belgian blue, which is much harder and abrades a bit of the nagura. Check the colour of the slurry and the nagura surface.



Right, what am I looking for? the Nakayama is a kiita and this thing is red, so I will definitely be able to tell what's going on. But I guess my question is what should be going on if it's working?


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## Benuser (May 19, 2017)

Creating a bit of slurry, I guess?


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## foody518 (May 19, 2017)

Depends on what you are thinking to use it for. Does it need help to aid its cutting speed? Does it need a bigger slurry buffer than the stone would actually produce on wide bevels to give a good polish?
I think those Naniwa synthetic nagura are around 600 grit


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## khashy (May 19, 2017)

How about I actually do this and send you guys photos of what the slurry looks like. 

Just to check, this will do no harm to my beloved and expensive stone right?


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## foody518 (May 19, 2017)

khashy said:


> How about I actually do this and send you guys photos of what the slurry looks like.
> 
> Just to check, this will do no harm to my beloved and expensive stone right?



Depending on to what fineness the stone was lapped to, you can possibly decrease surface fineness by using a coarse abrasive (even after washing off the slurry). make sure nagura you are using have rounded corners and edges, no fun to put deep scratches in the stone from high areas

I would try just using your stone first. If you are struggling to use it well on the knives you want to, maybe not a good fit for knife finishers


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## khashy (May 19, 2017)

foody518 said:


> Depending on to what fineness the stone was lapped to, you can possibly decrease surface fineness by using a coarse abrasive (even after washing off the slurry). make sure nagura you are using have rounded corners and edges, no fun to put deep scratches in the stone from high areas
> 
> I would try just using your stone first. If you are struggling to use it well on the knives you want to, maybe not a good fit for knife finishers



Okay, makes sense. I'm pretty positive that if I can't make it work, it's my fault rather than the stone ;]


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## Krassi (May 20, 2017)

i actually would not like to contaminate the slurry with this thing.
Its like mixing meth in your cake.. i only use my worn out Aotma or a Iwasaki Shiro Koma Nagura

Also if its a good Suita then you would never really need to make Slurry first. Those things are fast like lightning.
i just do it if i want to start with creamy super pursuit mode (the same used in nightrider)


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## Benuser (May 20, 2017)

If so called contamination occurs it's quite obvious and can be remediated by simple rinsing. No drama.


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## khashy (May 20, 2017)

Right, so worst that can happen is I'd need to lap the stone?


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## Krassi (May 20, 2017)

So if you got a worn out diamond plate then thats better 
A suita is a 6-8K Grit Stone that gets finer.. so well i would never ever get the Idea to put something coarse synthetic on it.. I would also not polish my Car with steel wool .. or do you ? 

But just try it and if it scratches the surface, then its not so cool.. you can always lap your stone again it wont explode.. its just a stone.


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## Benuser (May 20, 2017)

Just rinsing. The Chosera nagura isn't aggressive at all, and won't cause deep scratches. I use it on the Naniwa Snow White. Only with very hard stuff you may suspect any remaining. And with very coarse stones.


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## khashy (May 20, 2017)

Understood. Thank you both.


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## zitangy (May 24, 2017)

rubbing the stone, i wld prefer to

a) for cleaning lightly.... i wld look for anything that is close to the grit of yr main stone and wash it away. too course a stone would wear out the main stone.. and do watch yr pressure applied. To flatten or remove more than the surface layer, a little more aggresive stone wld be required and thats a good time to use the mud for cleaning blades adn hopefully nice patina with sandpaper or just collect it.

b) For Polishing.. and play with mud... to raise mud I wld prefer to use the same stone adn if i dont have, I wld use a finer stone like a superstone that has good polishing properties so that i can have the properties of the stone adn hope to have best of both worlds.

c) For a good edge, I wld contaminate the slurry with a 2K grit of an old Naniwa superstone as I like the bite and shine.

d) For the last few strokes... I like it bare; naked.. no slurry.... full contact of metal to the stone..

IN the final analysis... play with it.. there is no right or wrong as long as you get the results you like; sometimes accidental or hope for. So enjoy and have fun... rgds z


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## inzite (May 24, 2017)

i like using my cris anderson stone to lightly lap my jnat for slurry or conditioning/cleaning - it's a hard stone and doesn't give off slurry if any which is a plus for this purpose .


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