# First Jnat to use for kasumi, suita?



## nkbitsch (Mar 28, 2017)

Hi KKF!

I'm new to jnats, and have one only been using synthetics and fingerstones for polishing.

I have decided that I want to add a jnats to my collection as a finishing stone, and to be able to make the beautiful kasumi finish on my KUs.

As this tend to be a very expensive hobby, I have decided to try to limit my collection to one stone.

I read good things about the suitas, and Maksim just uploaded a couple to JNS. http://www.japanesenaturalstones.com/ohira-range-suita-lv-3-5-a1240/

Are one of these the one to go for, or what will you recommend in the $500-600 category?


----------



## inzite (Mar 28, 2017)

nkbitsch said:


> Hi KKF!
> 
> I'm new to jnats, and have one only been using synthetics and fingerstones for polishing.
> 
> ...



you can probably get a decent kasumi finish with a cheaper stone. maybe a tomae or something?


----------



## foody518 (Mar 28, 2017)

You don't need to go to the 500+ category to get a good kasumi finish


----------



## nkbitsch (Mar 28, 2017)

That's good to hear. What is the advantages of the $500+ stones? I'm in Denmark, so it will be very convenient for me buying from JNS, if you have any recommendations from him?


----------



## Matus (Mar 28, 2017)

Cheaper Uchigumori from Watanabe would be a good choice. Add a softer Ikarashi and you are set


----------



## Matus (Mar 28, 2017)

Ask Maxim directly, he can certainly help you with the choice.


----------



## foody518 (Mar 29, 2017)

I have an Oouchi from JKI that polishes similarly to my Ohira Renge Suita for $200. I'm thinking some of these lvl 2.5 Hideriyama or Takashima finishing stones are in that similar range. Maksim tends to have stones of very generous dimensions and regular shapes which look very clean and uniform, and the prices reflect that
If he gets any Aiiwatani koppa lvl 2.5 that could be more promising for making kasumi finish - my lvl 3 leaves just a bit of streaking

Several of my slightly lower grit medium fine stones of smaller dimensions and not quite rectangular shape do almost the same job for $70-130, almost the same level of contrast of the cladding but a little more visible scratch pattern and a little less shine on the core steel. 

Alternately, could be a good idea to&#8203; get in touch with Watanabe and ask about options there


----------



## Matus (Mar 29, 2017)

I would recommend against too small stones (say shorter than 150 - 160 mm) as they are harder to use in particular when working on kasumi. Also - if the stone is too narrow, than there is very little space left to serve as a 'resrvoir' for the mud - you just keep pushing it off the stone. Still - stones with size around 160 mm and at least 60 mm wide can be had for much less than full size stones.


----------



## foody518 (Mar 29, 2017)

Matus said:


> I would recommend against too small stones (say shorter than 150 - 160 mm) as they are harder to use in particular when working on kasumi. Also - if the stone is too narrow, than there is very little space left to serve as a 'resrvoir' for the mud - you just keep pushing it off the stone. Still - stones with size around 160 mm and at least 60 mm wide can be had for much less than full size stones.



+1
Something like 150-160x65x15mm would be a good start


----------



## Matus (Mar 29, 2017)

+1

Just as a matter of example something like *this *Ohira suita should work just fine. It might make sense to add one not too hard medium-fine stone (maybe one of *these*).


----------



## foody518 (Mar 29, 2017)

Depending on which synthetics you have, you could also possibly bridge from your fine synthetic to a softer natural finisher that is nicer on the cladding


----------



## nkbitsch (Mar 29, 2017)

Wow! This is why I love KKF, so many good advices from experienced people! I just wrote Maksim an email, and I'm very excited about what he recommends. To answer the question about what synthetics I have, I have a JNS 1000 and 6000.


----------



## Badgertooth (Mar 29, 2017)

To add my two cents, I'd forego a little length for some width as you are using short controlled strokes for an even finish and the added width gives you more lateral stability between the pressure hand and the guiding hand


----------



## Badgertooth (Mar 29, 2017)

I would also second Foodys recommendation of the softer Oouchi, Takashima, hideriyama spectrum. They are well sized, cheap, good kasumi finishers and leave a very good working edge too. They'll give you a chance to walk before you run, so to speak, with Ohira Suita which can sometimes be hard and ungenerous with slurry. This can be overcome with excellent technique and good foundational work at lower grits but that requires a solid commitment to both process and technique which will pay off in the long run but might frustrate you in the short run.


----------



## Mute-on (Mar 30, 2017)

Badgertooth said:


> I would also second Foodys recommendation of the softer Oouchi, Takashima, hideriyama spectrum. They are well sized, cheap, good kasumi finishers and leave a very good working edge too. They'll give you a chance to walk before you run, so to speak, with Ohira Suita which can sometimes be hard and ungenerous with slurry. This can be overcome with excellent technique and good foundational work at lower grits but that requires a solid commitment to both process and technique which will pay off in the long run but might frustrate you in the short run.



My thoughts exactly!

A JNS lvl 2.5 finisher, even a bench size Tsushima nagura, will take you all, or most of the way, up to a final finisher like Ohira Suita or Aiiwatani lvl 3.5.


----------



## foody518 (Mar 30, 2017)

Sure, but the difference between such finishers for making kasumi finish can be minor until you really work the slurry in each case


----------

