# Moritaka Ishime



## mhenry (Oct 10, 2011)

Anybody got, used, or seen one of these? Available from Knifewear. 
Thanks


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## DwarvenChef (Oct 10, 2011)

Texture looks interesting, after that I have no clue sorry.


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## Dave Martell (Oct 10, 2011)

I'm pretty sure the guy that did the 1 on 1 class here on Monday had a couple of these. They looked like Moritakas but he called them something else. Anyway, I didn't see any problems with them.


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## MWhtrader (Oct 12, 2011)

I've been to knifewear a few times, since I live in the same city. Kevin (the owner) said that this finish in traditionally done on hunting knives, not sure if its hunting knives or Moritaka hunting knives. Its got much more texture than the normal kurouchi finish.


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## FinkPloyd (Feb 21, 2012)

mhenry said:


> Anybody got, used, or seen one of these? Available from Knifewear.
> Thanks



I, too, have seen it on Knifewear. As your title states it is done in Ishime finish (Rock Surface finish).

Knifewear models are Aogami #2 and they feature a "D" shaped handle. I contacted Moritaka directly and ordered a Santoku Ishime (185mm), Aogami Super with octagonal Handle. Moritaka charged a total of 16,680 Yen; shipping included.

In my opinion Ishime finish looks way better then Kurouchi finish; and it's probably more durable. The knife is straight but not too sharp out of the box. The handle feels really good but before I use the knife I'll have to fill the handle/tang hole with some epoxy (see the bottom pic); not a pretty sight. I might consider sending it to Dave for inspection and sharpening. 

Sorry about bad pictures; I might take a better set later.


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## James (Feb 21, 2012)

seems like the finish on my takagi; very rust resistant and seems pretty stuck on there


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## NO ChoP! (Feb 22, 2012)

I don't see the normal welded tang of Moritaka....interesting.


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## FinkPloyd (Feb 25, 2012)

NO ChoP! said:


> I don't see the normal welded tang of Moritaka....interesting.




Good point.

It is hard to see from the previous pictures so, I took a few closeup shots. It appears the tang is made from a different material, but since it is covered with Rock Surface finish it doesn't show well (nor would I want it to).

Here are some closeup shots of the tang and Rock Surface finish:


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## Sarge (Feb 25, 2012)

Well there is the weld. Nice looking knives. I recently sold my Moritaka Kiri-gyuto and just barely regret it. Not enough to matter though, his replacement is doing great and as I get the edge profile more to my specs it'll be a perfect fit shortly. I will say I took for granted how nice an edge that Moritaka will take.


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## jonnachang (Feb 26, 2012)

Very Takeda-esque,I wonder how a full size Chukabocho would look.


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## Lefty (Feb 26, 2012)

That's the prettiest wabocho I have ever seen. Very nice knife!


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## FinkPloyd (Feb 27, 2012)

Thank you, lefty. I really love the finish and will probably order another knife from Moritaka.


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## FinkPloyd (Mar 9, 2012)

I need to fill this handle hole with some epoxy, but I have no idea what brand to order. I would prefer a small syringe style (clear) epoxy. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.


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## Lefty (Mar 9, 2012)

You should likely use a medium thick CA glue. I don't have any links, but I think I remember reading "Zap-a-Gap" in a thread a little while back. Check it out!


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## mpukas (Mar 9, 2012)

Lefty said:


> You should likely use a medium thick CA glue. I don't have any links, but I think I remember reading "Zap-a-Gap" in a thread a little while back. Check it out!



I think you have to be a little careful with CA - it has very strong bonding properties, but once it's dried it has no structure itself. It can be very brittle and breaks easily. In my limited expereince with other crafts, I think epoxy would be a better product for this application. 

I would suggest going to your local hardware store and see what's on the shelf and compare products. Keep in mind there are different rates - 5 minute - 30 minute, etc. and different formulas for diferent purposes. I think a basic 30 minute epoxy would be fine for this. Epoxy tends to be very thick and I doubt it would work w/ a syringe. Use something fine pointed like a bodkin, leather punch, or even a bamboo skewer whittled down to apply small amounts into the hole. You're bound to get some on the edge of the bolster, so have an appropriate solvent and wet a paper towel with it to wipe off any excess.


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## Lefty (Mar 9, 2012)

Sure, that could work too 
I figured some sanding to shape would work. Really, you just need something to fill the hole, so it shouldn't be too bad either way.


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## FinkPloyd (Mar 9, 2012)

Thank you gentleman. I can't wait to get this hole filled so that I can finally start using the knife.


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## kazeryu (Mar 9, 2012)

I looked at one of these (a nakiri) last night. Very attractive knife.


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## add (Mar 9, 2012)

FinkPloyd said:


> Thank you gentleman. I can't wait to get this hole filled so that I can finally start using the knife.



I have had good success with a two-part epoxy.

This is what has worked very well for me:

Lightly sand the end of the ferrule and, optionally, hit that interior dowel with some black magic marker/Sharpie to blend color.

Mask off the handle with some masking or blue painters tape, leaving 1/32" or so overlap.
Put the knife upright in a vise and apply the epoxy (mine came with a syringe) a 1/8" - 1/4" up the exposed tang.

The thick epoxy will slowly goo it's way down as it sets... as it pools, the tape and overlap will contain and form a mold for the glue.

After it has hardened remove the tape and light buff or micro sand.

What you are left with is a nice small epoxy "dome" that looks professional and will shed food debris and moisture like a beaver's azz...


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## sw2geeks (Mar 9, 2012)

jonnachang said:


> Very Takeda-esque,I wonder how a full size Chukabocho would look.





Here is a picture of my last Chukabocho from Moritaka having a similar hammer patterned applied. I went 2/3 hammer pattern into 1/3 damascus.


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## FinkPloyd (Mar 9, 2012)

add said:


> I have had good success with a two-part epoxy.
> 
> This is what has worked very well for me:
> 
> ...




That's exactly the way I am going to do it; thank you!


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## Dave Martell (Mar 9, 2012)

The best and easiest to find epoxy for this is Devcon's *2-ton*. This stuff is waterproof and found everywhere.


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## FinkPloyd (Mar 9, 2012)

sw2geeks said:


> View attachment 5160
> 
> Here is a picture of my last Chukabocho from Moritaka having a similar hammer patterned applied. I went 2/3 hammer pattern into 1/3 damascus.



How thick is the spine on your Chukabocho? I am actually contemplating of getting one.


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## FinkPloyd (Mar 9, 2012)

Dave Martell said:


> The best and easiest to find epoxy for this is Devcon's *2-ton*. This stuff is waterproof and found everywhere.



Ta-daa, fount it: http://www.amazon.com/Devcon-Clear-2-Ton-Epoxy-Tube/dp/B0006O8QQ0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1331329275&sr=8-3

Thanks!


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## Dave Martell (Mar 9, 2012)

FinkPloyd said:


> Ta-daa, fount it: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006O8QQ0/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
> 
> Thanks!




You're welcome!


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## add (Mar 10, 2012)

FinkPloyd said:


> I need to fill this handle hole with some epoxy, but I have no idea what brand to order. I would prefer a small syringe style (clear) epoxy. Any ideas?
> 
> Thanks in advance.



Fink, great pic btw...

But we are now gonna need an "after" shot from the same angle... :joec:


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## FinkPloyd (Mar 11, 2012)

Well, here it is. It's not perfect, but it does the job.

Thanks everyone for helping out. :thumbsup:


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## SpikeC (Mar 11, 2012)

Looks great to me!


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## mhenry (Mar 11, 2012)

Looks good to me too


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## FinkPloyd (Mar 11, 2012)

Thank you guys, I really appreciate it.

I made a mistake by masking the Machi (heel) too close to the handle. So, some masking tape is still visible and being a perfectionist that I am, I'm not too happy about it, but in the end it does the job.

Mental message: next time NO masking on Machi. Huummmmmmm .... someone ring that Tibetan bell.


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## sachem allison (Mar 11, 2012)

sharpie should take care of the masking tape.


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## Johnny.B.Good (Mar 12, 2012)

Can't see the tape in the picture. Looks good to me. Big, big improvement.


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## Viggetorr (Oct 20, 2017)

Excuse the massive bump, but wouldn't these rust very easily? Moritakas cladding is known to be very reactive, and with this uneven surface it seems like it would be very hard to wipe off all the water. Highly reactive cladding + high risk of remaining moisture seems like a set up for rust, no?


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## Grunt173 (Feb 3, 2018)

Viggetorr said:


> Excuse the massive bump, but wouldn't these rust very easily? Moritakas cladding is known to be very reactive, and with this uneven surface it seems like it would be very hard to wipe off all the water. Highly reactive cladding + high risk of remaining moisture seems like a set up for rust, no?



Wipe dry and give it a light coat of Camilla oil and it should do well.It is a pretty cool knife and I like the rough look.It looks like Knifeware in Canada is the only supplier,by my search.I think it would cost a small fortune by the time it arrived in the U.S.


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## Framingchisel (Feb 3, 2018)

Prices are in Canadian and would be about 20% less in US. Check with them because the site is not appear to work for conversion.


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## Grunt173 (Feb 3, 2018)

Framingchisel said:


> Prices are in Canadian and would be about 20% less in US. Check with them because the site is not appear to work for conversion.



Good to know.Thanks.


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## Viggetorr (Feb 3, 2018)

Grunt173 said:


> Wipe dry and give it a light coat of Camilla oil and it should do well.It is a pretty cool knife and I like the rough look.It looks like Knifeware in Canada is the only supplier,by my search.I think it would cost a small fortune by the time it arrived in the U.S.



You could order directly from Moritakas webpage, the prices of the knives are very cheap there. Shipping is very reasonable too. I think they're not taking orders at the moment though.


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