# Impromptu Gesshin Kagekiyo Makeover (Picture Heavy)



## tgfencer (Dec 9, 2016)

So, I make no secret that I really like the Gesshin Kagekiyo line. I'd snap up a 240-270 Blue #1 gyuto in a heartbeat if my finances would allow. However, I only have a Gesshin Kagekiyo 240m Stainless gyuto. I'm not the original owner and some sharpening had been done to it when I got it. The wide bevel shoulders had been more eased and partially flattened rather than having the bevel raised crisply. No big deal, still cuts like a dream. However, there was a very distinct scratch pattern on the blade that didnt do much for me aesthetically speaking. Well, I got to looking at it yesterday and pondered selling it because stainless just doesnt do much for me. While its always useful to have one or two lying around, stainless steel knives feel a bit sterile to me. But then it occurred to me to give it a makeover and jazz it up a bit instead. This was my first attempt at doing something like this, but my only real concern was how long it was going to take me as the steel of the Gesshin Kagekiyo Stainless line is undisclosed, but say la vie. Cue sandpaper.

Original state:







Close up of eased wide bevel shoulder




120 Grit:

Looking back, I wish I had 60 grit to start because the diagonal scratches on the core edge steel were a b**** to remove, so much so that I ended up leaving them after a while, deciding it wasn't worth my time and energy to try with 120 grit sandpaper. At this point I also decided to leave the blade flats largely untouched, rather than attempting to polish them down as well. This was partially due to my laziness and also because I was interested what it would look like in the end. I focused on short sections of the blade all down its length, then did knife-long passes to blend the scratches together before moving on. I used this pattern for each progressive grit.












320 Grit:

320 grit was really the nadir of this experience for me. Not as satisfyingly coarse as the 120, it took a long time to remove the 120 scratches and start up the base of a polish. Still, it was necessary because the jump from 120 to 600 would have taken a lot longer.









600 Grit:

This is where the magic started to happen. I also learned its worth taking your time and being thorough on the previous coarse grits because it means you save time and frustration when you start to hit the finer, polishing grits. I was lazy on the coarse grits with the right side of the knife as it was the first side I worked on. I did not repeat that error on the left side of the blade.





How bout that tree?





1500/2000 Grit:

For whatever reason I could not find any 1000 grit paper, so I had to jump up to 1500. Not ideal, but also not terrible, just meant this step took a bit longer. I spent a bit of time trying to fix errant scratches from the 600 grit and began to realize that I didn't do a good enough job at blending the scratches at the top of the bevel where it meets the flat. This was partially due to the imprecise nature of the sandpaper and probably also my increasing impatience. If I did it over, I might attempt using painters tape to mask over the top of the blade so I could leave myself a clear line to work up to. (Though maybe the sandpaper would end up ripping at the tape..)





Current State:
At the end I was glad I decided to leave the flats with the original diagonal scratch lines because it gives the knife some visual distinction. And because my hand was sore. I'll probably go back and smooth out the transition on the face so it all blends together better at some point. The wide-bevels are now very much smoothed and cannot be felt when running a finger from edge to spine, however the thickness of the steel is still there so I don't expect much noticeable drop off in food release.

There is definitely more work to be done to get a mirror finish if I wanted it. There are faint scratch patterns still on the face and the original diagonal scratch pattern on the edge of the steel that would probably annoy the perfectionists among us, but for 90 minutes of labor I'm pretty satisfied with the end result.

Oh and I also refinished the edge since I'd slipped a bit with the sandpaper on a quick progression of Gesshin 2000 synthetic and an ohira uchimugori. Not the best looking finish, but it boy does it cut.

Up against a mirror-finished honayki:


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## JBroida (Dec 9, 2016)

looks good... i think sometimes people forget that the core steel is much harder, and will thus take more time to remove scratches from.


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## Matus (Dec 9, 2016)

Nice work. But one of the reason why you have scratches left on the core steel is probably that you went with too large steps in grits. If I were to start with 120, I would have followed with 180, 240, 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 (give or take).



JBroida said:


> looks good... i think sometimes people forget that the core steel is much harder, and will thus take more time to remove scratches from.



I have a first hand experience on this and every word what Jon just said is true. I found it thoroughly frustrating to see how the scratches 'sticked' to the core steel.


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## tgfencer (Dec 9, 2016)

JBroida said:


> looks good... i think sometimes people forget that the core steel is much harder, and will thus take more time to remove scratches from.



Thanks Jon. I would have preferred to do the bulk of the work with stones, but my diamonds are out on loan to a line cook friend of mine, so sandpaper it was. Definitely would have been more enthusiastic to deal with the core steel with those rather than hand-powered sandpaper! I would like to polish out the flats at some point I think.

Matus, I knew going into it that the core would be a problem, just didnt realize how much. I think you're right though and the jumps were too big in grit. It was impromptu, so next time a trip to the hardware store will be in order beforehand!


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## Matus (Dec 9, 2016)

If may recommend try to get Rhynowet Redline sanding paper. it is really nice and still reasonably priced. The only more advice I can give you is to try to figure out (next time) what is the finest grit you can start with. The scratches from grits under 400 (and in particular under 240) really take long to remove. The situation improves when you get past 400.


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## tgfencer (Dec 9, 2016)

Matus said:


> If may recommend try to get Rhynowet Redline sanding paper. it is really nice and still reasonably priced. The only more advice I can give you is to try to figure out (next time) what is the finest grit you can start with. The scratches from grits under 400 (and in particular under 240) really take long to remove. The situation improves when you get past 400.



Cool, I'll have a look out for that! I'm pretty sure a knife-making buddy of mine uses that stuff.


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## Smashmasta (Dec 9, 2016)

@tgfencer - how did you use the sandpaper ie, was it just under your thumb/fingers, or did you affix it to something? 

I'm planning on building something similar in the future (so I can't yet say how effective this is), but maybe next time consider using the simple ingenious jig seen at the 11:10 mark from [video=youtube;zNPc6xBBiLk]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zNPc6xBBiLk[/video] from Maxim...


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## tgfencer (Dec 9, 2016)

Hey Smash, that is a pretty smart set up! Crafty guy that Shigefusa..  

As for what I used, I cut off the opposite rounded sides of a wine cork so that it there were two flat sides and used one side for the sandpaper and one side for my fingers. Worked fairly well, actually, all things considered. Next time I'll use jimmy something else up to help making applying pressure a little easier, which seems to be what Shigefusa did with that piece of wood, otherwise the strain on your fingers aint too fun after a while.

I really enjoyed the attempt and I'm going to take another crack at tackling the flats and those pesky scratches on the core steel next week sometime when I have less work on my plate. I'll try to post an update.


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## Krassi (Dec 9, 2016)

Hii!1
very cool Infos in this thread!
i will also build me a long stick with sanding-block at the bottom.. really you cant do a good straight polishin just freehand and you dondt want to accidentally cut of some finger  .. i guess that way its waay easier to get a straight finish.

aahh i also found something, that i forgot were i found it but benny found it again (i also asked the guy about that giant uchigumori like looking stone, but he got it as a present or something)

[video]https://youtu.be/6e4-69hnGBI?t=224[/video]

check out that woodblock/stick with leather or some PVC on the ends...
he uses it like a stamp and can put some preasure precisly on the blade and polishes it with the jnat slurry..

i gotta try this with some leftover wood, or a cork block from the Doityourselfmarket (Baumarkt!  )
the Idea is interesting and also you wont hurt yourself doing the polishing.

Seeya Daniel


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## tgfencer (Dec 9, 2016)

Krassi, that's kinda like what I did, but smarter since he could grip with his whole hand whereas I could only get 3 fingers on the wine cork.


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## Krassi (Dec 9, 2016)

Bingo!
thats what i also thought.. any kind handle like thing that is long enough give better control and precission and you can put better pressure on the blade.
You can hold it like a handle with the full hand and i guess at the end is leather or some rubber that he uses to get some slurry on and then as asoft polishing surface..i guess a zip tie, duct tape, or a small rope would hold it.. or i use glue.


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## Omega (Dec 11, 2016)

Damn man! That looks really good! I definitely like the contrast between of mirror where the bevel starts, and the diagonal scratches above it. Not bad for 90 minutes of work, indeed!


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## tgfencer (Dec 12, 2016)

Omega said:


> Damn man! That looks really good! I definitely like the contrast between of mirror where the bevel starts, and the diagonal scratches above it. Not bad for 90 minutes of work, indeed!



Thanks! Did some more work on it yesterday and polished up the flats, so the contrast is gone. I'll post some pictures when I get the chance and can get some decent lighting.


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## krx927 (Dec 12, 2016)

Krassi said:


> Bingo!
> thats what i also thought.. any kind handle like thing that is long enough give better control and precission and you can put better pressure on the blade.
> You can hold it like a handle with the full hand and i guess at the end is leather or some rubber that he uses to get some slurry on and then as asoft polishing surface..i guess a zip tie, duct tape, or a small rope would hold it.. or i use glue.



Nice video you posted!

For fixing leather, you just cut a bigger piece on one side and fold and nail it on the side of the stick - will never move anywhere


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## tgfencer (Dec 12, 2016)

Take 2. Decided to go back and polish the flats and have another go at the core steel, though the latter objective fell by the wayside as I decided I ultimately didn't care enough to make the time investment worthwhile.

Some j-nats outside my door in the process of being sealed.







Right side, kanji.




The line of the wide bevel shows up way more (where the image distortion occurs) on the back side of the blade than the kanji side, now that its all polished.




Core scratches are still there for all my HD close-up shame. Gotta look close in real life to see them though, so that's good enough for me.


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