# converting a hollow ground to a beveled blade



## Crothcipt (Apr 2, 2012)

I have been on a roll. I bought a flat v shaped blade that went straight to a hollow ground edge. At first I thought the weight was why I didn't like it, but it was the edge. It would shave hair with out a problem, and start on a tomato without a hitch. But as soon as it hit the blade face it would stop and want to wedge. 

The hollow grind itself was badly done it looked like someone used a dremmel that left indentations. I think this was a idea of trying to be a guide so the food wouldn't stick. I got rid of the "indentations" thinking this would help in slicing, which it did. But now that I am gonna have a 18 year old kid try to make a saya for my work blade I was thinking of making this better. 

so I am wondering how to change the edge of the blade. If creating a new bevel down to the edge would be the right thing. I have been looking here to see if there is anything written on this but have not found anything. Is there something someone can link so I can read about how to do this. I am sure I am not the first person to have this problem. hopefully I can post pics of what I mean.


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## Crothcipt (Apr 2, 2012)

hopefully you can see the horizontal marks left by the stone when cutting the edge.


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## Taz575 (Apr 2, 2012)

Based on the pictures, it looks like the edge is pretty thick. I would thin behind the edge a bit, then sharpen as you would normally. It will scuff up the damascus and most likely remove the contrast in the steels where you thin it, but you can re etch it. Those dents in the edge are common for factory knives sharpened on a wheel or belt. Many production knives have the same marks.

To thin the edge, you basically start with coarse stones and work on the part of the blade behind the edge to thin it out. You can redo the whole flat part of the blade to get the edge thinner, or start say 1/3 to halfway up the blade and thin from there down to the edge. That whole blade looks pretty beefy, not sure if you wanted it like that or not?? Also, what blade is this?


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## GlassEye (Apr 2, 2012)

That looks really thick behind the edge, you may need more than stones to get that to perform well. What is that blade?


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## Crothcipt (Apr 2, 2012)

They said it is a 1095/15n20. It is from:eeew: packastan which I think im gonna call posastan for this knifes sake. I put the etching on myself so not really worried about that. the fit and finish sux at this present time. It is a beefey blade, not as bad as the zombie buschknife, this one is more manageable. I am getting some stones in sometime this week, what you see is pretty much my scraping on the bottom of some rough china.


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## JohnnyChance (Apr 2, 2012)

It is wedging because it is at least 10 times thicker than it should be.


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## Taz575 (Apr 2, 2012)

Yikes. I would look for some other damascus blades or something, you have the worst luck with the ones you are finding!! The specs for 1095 changed a few years back where the Mn content changed, which can lead to the steel not hardening properly. I dunno of you want to put a lot of time into this blade and find out it's soft like the other one. That one looks like it would need a whole re grind on it, which will take a long time on the stones. Can you get a refund?


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## GlassEye (Apr 2, 2012)

Crothcipt said:


> They said it is a 1095/15n20. It is from:eeew: packastan which I think im gonna call posastan for this knifes sake.


If it is anything like the zombie buschef, you should consider grabbing something from B/S/T unless you already have something good and you are just messing with this for fun. If that is the case, good luck.


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## Crothcipt (Apr 2, 2012)

lol I would say yes just because the symmetry from the edge to the face just stops right in the path. 



my cord on my hd computer cam isn't long enough to get a full pic.

Also it looks like they were having problems with the tip too. It is doing a bird beak thing at about 5mm from the end.


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## Crothcipt (Apr 2, 2012)

Oh ya this is more for fun.


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## Crothcipt (Apr 2, 2012)

Taz575 said:


> Yikes. I would look for some other damascus blades or something, you have the worst luck with the ones you are finding!! The specs for 1095 changed a few years back where the Mn content changed, which can lead to the steel not hardening properly. I dunno of you want to put a lot of time into this blade and find out it's soft like the other one. That one looks like it would need a whole re grind on it, which will take a long time on the stones. Can you get a refund?



no I bought this back in Feb. This is probably a drawer queen. Next damascus I buy prob will be a billet from a maker in the us.


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## SpikeC (Apr 2, 2012)

Typically these will not hold an edge because they can not be hardened, so you can probably reshape the face of the blade with a file.


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## Eamon Burke (Apr 2, 2012)

+1 on the file.

Got an Atoma plate? DMT XXC? Harbor Freight Story nearby(a 1x30 belt sander is like $40).


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## EdipisReks (Apr 2, 2012)

JohnnyChance said:


> It is wedging because it is at least 10 times thicker than it should be.



i'd say more like 50.


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## stereo.pete (Apr 3, 2012)

EdipisReks said:


> i'd say more like 50.



yep, lolz


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## stevenStefano (Apr 4, 2012)

Do you have much use for a Western Deba? Looks like it would save you a lot of bother and time if you just used your knife for that


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## Crothcipt (Apr 10, 2012)

Ty for all the feed back. The blade in the pic. that everyone was asking about I was using to set the focus, for the primary knife. It was the first damascus I bought off of e-bay. It is a dagger that needs to have a handle put on. 

I have thinned this down, and it needs more. When I bought a 600 stone I didn't think I would need a lower one.:fishslap: I have yet to put a edge on this yet, but will do soon. It looks really rough atm. Ty all for your help and suggestions.

My friend took another knife to do a saya for before doing a larger one. Tanaka santoku I bought quite a while ago that doesn't fit in my knife carrier.

Will post pic's soon


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