# End Grain Boards



## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

Hi all, 

I’m looking to buy an end grain board.

My main concern, especially after viewing Amazon reviews for Jon Boos boards, is the number of reports of warping, cracking of individual blocks and cracks in glue lines.

It will be a significant upgrade from my ikea poly cutting boards. I’m trying to avoid the frustration of forking out for something that is supposedly “better” only to have the thing break down in a short amount of time.

I understand they require a relatively high level of maintenance, but trust in my ability to meet those needs.

I plan to use it for the majority of my meal prep (except raw proteins).

Pretty keen on walnut and hoping to buy domestically (Aus) to save on the shipping costs associated with such heavy items.

I am seeking some general guidance about purchasing such a board, to hopefully avoid some of the above pitfalls. 

Ie is the longevity of the board mainly a matter of maintenance, manufacture, or are results that individual that no real generalisations can be made?

Thanks, 

Vaughan


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## jedy617 (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I’m looking to buy an end grain board.
> 
> ...


Keep it dry, oil it with mineral oil and some board wax once or twice a month and you'll be fine. A good end grain board will last decades, especially from boos. I'd recommend cheaper alternatives but not sure if they ship internationaly and might be too pricey. Walnut is a good choice. Don't overthink it.


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## jedy617 (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Hi all,
> 
> I’m looking to buy an end grain board.
> 
> ...


Just in case he ships international, this guy is local from me and by day does a lot of big commercial jobs with wood. I've used the board for years and it's held up perfectly. Honestly feels like a steal at the price. Black Walnut Butcher Block Cutting Board New End Grain 14 X 18 Sap Pattern | eBay


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

From posts I have read across several forums, the general recommendation for thickness (to avoid warping) is 2.5” or more. However, even a small board at this thickness would be pretty heavy.

If people are not experiencing issues (given regular maintenance) with thinner end grain boards, I’d rather go that route. I’m hoping to keep it relatively easy to move between the bench, sink and storage cupboard.


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 19, 2022)

jedy617 said:


> Just in case he ships international, this guy is local from me and by day does a lot of big commercial jobs with wood. I've used the board for years and it's held up perfectly. Honestly feels like a steal at the price. Black Walnut Butcher Block Cutting Board New End Grain 14 X 18 Sap Pattern | eBay


Another huge thumbs up for 227wood. I have 3 of his walnut end grain boards. I've owned my main 22x16x2 board for over 5 years and it looks as good as new. No warpage, cracking or other issues (I do use the supplied rubber feet which means I can only work on one side). I just give it a soaking in mineral oil every couple of months. These are truly heirloom quality with a budget price.

Yes he ships internationally but not cheap. Import taxes plus shipping to Germany run around $80 for that board according to Ebay.


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 19, 2022)

As an aside. Most of the warpage I have experienced has been with thinner boards YMMV. Ultimately it all comes down to quality of manufacture plus care & maintenance.


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## Jovidah (Nov 19, 2022)

My observations over the years:
-Watch the shipping costs; since these larger end grain cutting boards tend to be heavy it's rarely economical to buy them from abroad.
-There are plenty of suitable woods; which ones are most cost-effective while still being suitable varies per region. For example in Europe it's beech wood. There's lists floating around somewhere about which woods are and aren't suitable (mostly related to silica content and hardness).
-I'd say the sheer majority of cutting board failures are user error, usually related to insufficient oiling and excessive washing / moisture.
-End-grain boards really don't have to be a hassle; I'm quite lazy when it comes to these maintenance chores and mine survive just fine... oiling it just once every few months. But when I do I make sure I completely saturate them with oil.
-I always seperate my proteins to seperate boards so I can get away with washing my end-grain less (soap tends to be the main thing drying out/de-oiling your boards). I just wipe them off with some paper kitchen towel (wet if need be) and that's usually enough.
-Board wax (mix of oil + beeswax) really helps stave off the drying out of the boards.
-All my boards were modestly priced affordable boards, so it's at least _possible _to get something good without paying top bucks for a high end brand, but I might have just gotten lucky.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

Corradobrit1 said:


> As an aside. Most of the warpage I have experienced has been with thinner boards YMMV. Ultimately it all comes down to quality of manufacture plus care & maintenance.


How thin are we talking? The linked board is 1-3/8”. Not the thickest (but maybe sufficient?)


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## Nemo (Nov 19, 2022)

I have a Choppa Block. From a mob out of Adelaide IIRC.

Pretty thick. Choose your own wood (within limits). It has feet on it which may help with warping (depending on whose opinion about this you believe).

Mine is 6 years old. No warping. It gets oiled and conditioned when the surface is dry (I guess once every month or 3) and I've resurfaced it twice in that period.

It's too big to fir in the sink. I clean it with vinegar and paper towel. If it gets dirty or someone puts meat on it, I follow up with peroxide.


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> How thin are we talking? The linked board is 1-3/8”. Not the thickest (but maybe sufficient?)


Less than a inch thick


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

Nemo said:


> I have a Choppa Block. From a mob out of Adelaide IIRC.
> 
> Pretty thick. Choose your own wood (within limits).
> 
> Mine is 6 years old. No warping. It gets oiled and conditioned when dry (I guess once every month or 3) and I've resurfaced it twice in that period.


Had a squizz. Boards look nice but they seem to exclusively use Australian hardwoods, of which I have not seen any recommendations as ideal for use in cutting boards. Not that to say they aren’t, just that they don’t seem to be a popular choice.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

Also, found this on Etsy.

Premium End Grain Cutting Board American Walnut - Etsy Australia 

Aussie board maker. Dimensions seem to be in the ballpark of what I’m after. A little more expensive but presents well.


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## Nemo (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Had a squizz. Boards look nice but they seem to exclusively use Australian hardwoods, of which I have not seen any recommendations as ideal for use in cutting boards. Not that to say they aren’t, just that they don’t seem to be a popular choice.


Mine is Jarrah. Looks great. Probably a bit harder than ideal but it's really not that bad.

Tassie oak is supposed to be pretty soft.


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## Moooza (Nov 19, 2022)

I've got 2 Choppablock boards. Great stuff.

There's some good faq's on his website. It seems the main reason why they split or warp is because they dry out a bit - keep it well oiled, especially early on and you'll be fine.


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## jjlotti (Nov 19, 2022)

The first 6 months seem to be the critical period. After a certain period of time boards hardly need to be oiled waxed at all in my experience. New, watch them all the time, 6 months to two years, oil as needed( the color will change to let you know. After that, emmmm, most decent boards will be fine with steak juice lubes
And as said before, wood hardly ever needs dish soap.


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Also, found this on Etsy.
> 
> Premium End Grain Cutting Board American Walnut - Etsy Australia
> 
> Aussie board maker. Dimensions seem to be in the ballpark of what I’m after. A little more expensive but presents well.


Nice looking, well crafted mid priced option. Factoring costs for an imported board, not a bad price all things considered


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## HumbleHomeCook (Nov 19, 2022)

You don't have to go with end grain. Yes it has advantages but I wouldn't get overly locked in if there's an edge grain that will work for you. I in fact went from many years of end grain back to an edge grain and have no regrets. The board was the right size and the right price.

2" Boos.

I use it for everything from breaking down chickens to dicing carrots.

No big hassle to maintain. Laxative grade mineral oil is widely recommended and what I use for casual maintenance. I also mix up my own board wax with mineral oil and bees wax and apply that every so often.

I'm not trying to steer you away from end grain, just saying that I personally wouldn't make a lot of sacrifices just for that style if I could get an edge grain that had other features I valued more.

It's all about the features (especially overall size) that you want and how much you're willing to spend.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

HumbleHomeCook said:


> You don't have to go with end grain. Yes it has advantages but I wouldn't get overly locked in if there's an edge grain that will work for you. I in fact went from many years of end grain back to an edge grain and have no regrets. The board was the right size and the right price.
> 
> 2" Boos.
> 
> ...


Sorry, could you expand a little on the features that you prefer in the edge grain over the end grain?


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## deltaplex (Nov 19, 2022)

At the very least, edge (or face) grain boards are double sided, do not require feet (or some other means of keeping them up out of potential liquids) and while maybe slightly "harder" on blade edges, require less babying and maintenance than a similar dimensioned end grain board. I have both in the kitchen right now and I use them pretty much interchangeably.


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## HumbleHomeCook (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Sorry, could you expand a little on the features that you prefer in the edge grain over the end grain?



For me it was mainly the size I could get for the cost. I prioritized the size of the board right up front. My last end grain was closer to 16x12. I wanted something close to 20x16x2. Lots of space but still able to wash it in my sink. Trust me, lots of cutting surface is sweet. An end grain board of that size would be around 2x the cost of the edge grain board.

I also didn't want feet or grooves.

I got this one:









John Boos Reversible Maple Board 20 x 15 x 2.25


On sale NSF approved John Boos Maple cutting board measuring 20" x 15" x 2.25" at CuttingBoard.com. Qualifies for free shipping.




www.cuttingboard.com





Again, if the cost isn't a concern, by all means pursue the end grain. It was just more than I wanted to spend and at this thickness, my board holds up well.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

My attraction to the end grain was mainly for edge preservation. I’m not sure how much of a difference using an edge grain board would make in that regard.

Is your reason for not wanting feet simply so that you can use either side of the board?

As for dimensions, something around 20” x 14” would be ideal.

Price is somewhat of a factor. Hopefully something no more than $400 AUD. Finding a local board maker will likely be crucial to avoid big shipping fees.


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## Jovidah (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Had a squizz. Boards look nice but they seem to exclusively use Australian hardwoods, of which I have not seen any recommendations as ideal for use in cutting boards. Not that to say they aren’t, just that they don’t seem to be a popular choice.


Keep in mind that the forum population is predominantly American with a sprinkling of Europeans. That's what I was hinting at with variation in local woods; the 'popular choice' in the US or Europe is largely dependent on what's locally available and economical. There might be perfectly suitable more local Australian alternatives that make more sense.


deltaplex said:


> At the very least, edge (or face) grain boards are double sided, do not require feet (or some other means of keeping them up out of potential liquids) and while maybe slightly "harder" on blade edges, require less babying and maintenance than a similar dimensioned end grain board. I have both in the kitchen right now and I use them pretty much interchangeably.


End-grain boards don't require feet? Of course this might depend on your kitchen setup but none of mine had feet, all of mine were reversible, and I always used them directly on the countertop with at most a towel under it (to catch any oil that might still be sweating out after I just oiled it). I never particularly felt like I had to baby my end-grains... though there is the one caveat that I always used seperate boards for proteins. Considering they require a lot of washing I'd lean towards edge-grain for a protein board.


HumbleHomeCook said:


> For me it was mainly the size I could get for the cost. I prioritized the size of the board right up front. My last end grain was closer to 16x12. I wanted something close to 20x16x2. Lots of space but still able to wash it in my sink. Trust me, lots of cutting surface is sweet. An end grain board of that size would be around 2x the cost of the edge grain board.
> 
> I also didn't want feet or grooves.
> 
> ...


Honestly if you shop around you can have your cake and eat it too, as long as you stay away from the 'luxury brands' and more expensive woods. Boo's Blocks is definitly one of the brands on the higher end of the price-scale. 
I'm currently using a 60x40x6 cm end-grain board (23,62 x 15,75 x 2,36) that only cost me 80 euros. Previous board I bought from the same cheap brand in a smaller size has been going strong for 15 years already and still looks virtually brand new.


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## Jovidah (Nov 19, 2022)

People differ on opinion on whether or not end grain helps edge retention (for me anecdotally it does, but others disagree with that), but for me personally the biggest boon of my end-grain board is that I quite prefer the cutting feel over that of my edge grain boards.
But admittedly 'cutting feel' is one of those personal preference things where people can have diametrically opposing opinions.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

Jovidah said:


> There might be perfectly suitable more local Australian alternatives that make more sense


Indeed, however I know very little about how they compare to the commonly used maple, walnut and cherry.



Jovidah said:


> I'm currently using a 60x40x6 cm end-grain board (23,62 x 15,75 x 2,36) that only cost me 80 euros. Previous board I bought from the same cheap brand in a smaller size has been going strong for 15 years already and still looks virtually brand new.


Essentially after this. Could be that Choppablock is the answer. Just hoping to find out a bit more about how our hardwoods compare.


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## deltaplex (Nov 19, 2022)

I agree that they do not require feet, but a plurality of them come with feet or something similar so they are kept up off the surface.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

Jovidah said:


> People differ on opinion on whether or not end grain helps edge retention (for me anecdotally it does, but others disagree with that), but for me personally the biggest boon of my end-grain board is that I quite prefer the cutting feel over that of my edge grain boards.
> But admittedly 'cutting feel' is one of those personal preference things where people can have diametrically opposing opinions.


It sounds like something that’s worth the added expense to me. Especially if this board is going to be my primary cutting surface for the next 20+ years


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

deltaplex said:


> I agree that they do not require feet, but a plurality of them come with feet or something similar so they are kept up off the surface.


Is there likely to be any issues that arise from the board having feet? Say maintaining flatness? I’d imagine the board would have to be fairly long and thin for that to be a problem though.


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## Jovidah (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Indeed, however I know very little about how they compare to the commonly used maple, walnut and cherry.
> 
> 
> Essentially after this. Could be that Choppablock is the answer. Just hoping to find out a bit more about how our hardwoods compare.


Yeah there's enough Australians on this forum that I hope sooner or later someone can exhaustively answer your question. 
In Europe the 'default bang for your buck' choice is beech wood.


Vaughan said:


> It sounds like something that’s worth the added expense to me. Especially if this board is going to be my primary cutting surface for the next 20+ years


In general I'm off the opinion that unless you're for whatever reason extremely limited in your budget, cutting boards are a place where it makes sense to splurge. It's something you'll use every day for decades to come (if you give it some limited care and attention).


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## deltaplex (Nov 19, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Is there likely to be any issues that arise from the board having feet? Say maintaining flatness? I’d imagine the board would have to be fairly long and thin for that to be a problem though.


The end grain of the wood wicks up liquid like it was specifically designed for it, so the feet keep it up and out of any potential spills. With the thickness of boards that have been discussed, there's no additional chance of warpage with added feet.


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 19, 2022)

I could envisage some fibre loss with a heavily used edge grain board. Most of my cutting occurs in a fairly confined area (centre) of the board and over the years I could see this area being less stable. Just a considered guess since I've never used an edge grain.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

deltaplex said:


> The end grain of the wood wicks up liquid like it was specifically designed for it, so the feet keep it up and out of any potential spills. With the thickness of boards that have been discussed, there's no additional chance of warpage with added feet.


Copy. I’d imagine using a towel underneath a board without feet would limit this as well.


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 19, 2022)

Jovidah said:


> People differ on opinion on whether or not end grain helps edge retention (for me anecdotally it does, but others disagree with that), but for me personally the biggest boon of my end-grain board is that I quite prefer the cutting feel over that of my edge grain boards.
> But admittedly 'cutting feel' is one of those personal preference things where people can have diametrically opposing opinions.


Also depends what steel you generally use. I would say W#2 will dull quicker on edge grain.
For me cutting feel is impt too. Prob one reason I rarely use my Hasegawa. Plastic boards suck in that dept.


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## jedy617 (Nov 19, 2022)

Over thinking it on the thickness. I don't think I'd ever consider something much over 1.5 inches thick. That's mammoth sized lol. I'd say anything over 0.75in thick is fine.


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 19, 2022)

jedy617 said:


> Over thinking it on the thickness. I don't think I'd ever consider something much over 1.5 inches thick. That's mammoth sized lol. I'd say anything over 0.75in thick is fine.


Depends on the size of board so I wouldn't generalize, but given the OP's preferred dimensions I would agree.


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## HumbleHomeCook (Nov 19, 2022)

jedy617 said:


> Over thinking it on the thickness. I don't think I'd ever consider something much over 1.5 inches thick. That's mammoth sized lol. I'd say anything over 0.75in thick is fine.



I couldn't disagree more. Thick cutting boards are awesome. Super stable and many, many years of sanding available.


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## Bodine (Nov 19, 2022)

I like a thick board, with rubber feet, oil on all sides for stabilization.


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## Vaughan (Nov 19, 2022)

Jovidah said:


> Yeah there's enough Australians on this forum that I hope sooner or later someone can exhaustively answer your question.


I might give Choppablock a call tomorrow and see what they have to say about their woods.


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## mc2442 (Nov 19, 2022)

I am fortunate to be able to keep a 22x16x2 board with feet on my counter. If you don't use raw proteins on it you don't have to worry that much about washing it. The vast majority of the time I just use a mix of white vinegar and water (50/50). Rarely would I use a sponge to wash it, and finish in the same vinegar and water solution.
If you use other boards for raw protein I don't think you need to worry about the extra side if you don't want feet. Personally I like the feet. As far as end vs. end grain, I 2nd an earlier comment that I just like the feel more.
As far as maintenance, I agree that the early stages require more frequent application of mineral oil, basically just keep adding in batches until it does not absorb anymore. After the first few times you can go quite a few months between. Early on I would hit all sides a time or two, but after that just the cutting surface most times.
I would go as large as is usable in your kitchen, bigger is definitely better with cutting boards.


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## gentiscid (Nov 19, 2022)

Check your locals… marketplace. Lots of
people making boards and selling locally at flea markets etc.


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## JASinIL2006 (Nov 19, 2022)

If an end grain board is properly oiled, there is no need to worry about it wicking up liquids. If one is really worried about it, roll a couple paper towels and let board rest on them. No need for feet on a board; feet just prevent you from using both sides.


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## JoBone (Nov 19, 2022)

I occasionally make end grain cutting boards for gifts. As such, I’ve done a little research but I am certainly not a pro.

I recommend end grain over edge grain for edge retentions, definitely stay away from bamboo. You don’t want a board with a lot of glue, so some of the boards with small pieces can also be unkind towards your knives.

You want a wood that is durable (rot resistant), does not have open pores, is not too soft, not to hard and doesn’t contain oils with a discernible taste.

I like to check out the hardness and endgrain of woods to see what works and what doesn’t.






The Wood Database


Explore the woods, break out of the ordinary. Identifying and using hundreds of woods worldwide.




www.wood-database.com





Walnut, cherry and maple are great, if you stick to those you will be golden.

For thickness, I think 1.25” is good for smaller to medium size boards, but 1.75+ for the bigger boards. But it sounds like some people use thinner boards with good success.

I use a walnut board. After making it, I soaked it in walrus oil for a few days, now it just needs a little added every few months.


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## jedy617 (Nov 20, 2022)

HumbleHomeCook said:


> I couldn't disagree more. Thick cutting boards are awesome. Super stable and many, many years of sanding available.


I think anything 1.5 inch and over is indeed quite thick. Just trying to say that it's not a hard and fast rule that you need something like 2+ inch thick board to be safe. 

I have a 1 inch board from my grandfather that is at least 50+ years old and is holding up just fine. Even if you sand down your board once a year or so it will take a long long time to thin it down by any meaningful way


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## Vaughan (Nov 20, 2022)

Glad to hear there are plenty of examples of thinner boards that seem to be holding up fine. Before starting this thread I was thinking I was going to have to buy some 2.5" monster slab of lumber.


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## jedy617 (Nov 20, 2022)

My 18x20 is a huge and lumbering beast at 1 7/8 in thick. Wouldn't want it a mm thicker.


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## Vaughan (Nov 20, 2022)

jedy617 said:


> My 18x20 is a huge and lumbering beast at 1 7/8 in thick. Wouldn't want it a mm thicker.
> 
> View attachment 209477


Has a nice rugged aesthetic to it too


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## Beerzebub (Nov 20, 2022)

I've had this one that's 4 cm thick (50x38x4 cm, i.e. 20x15x1.6 inches) and it's holding up fine after a year and a half with regular oiling/'buttering'. It's made from rimu, a native New Zealand conifer. I like it. It's softer than maple and shows lots of cut marks (this picture is from when it was new) but works well and is easy on knife edges.

Makes sense to look at local options before getting something so bulky shipped internationally. This one cost me only 205 NZD including shipping within NZ (that's 189 AUD or 126 USD currently).

(edited to correct dimensions)


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## Vaughan (Nov 20, 2022)

Beerzebub said:


> I've had this one that's 4 cm thick (50x38x4 cm, i.e. 20x15x1.6 inches) and it's holding up fine after a year and a half with regular oiling/'buttering'. It's made from rimu, a native New Zealand conifer. I like it. It's softer than maple and shows lots of cut marks (this picture is from when it was new) but works well and is easy on knife edges.
> 
> Makes sense to look at local options before getting something so bulky shipped internationally. This one cost me only 205 NZD including shipping within NZ (that's 189 AUD or 126 USD currently).
> 
> ...


Sounds very reasonably priced especially given the size. If I can find something in a native timber that performs closely to walnut I’d be pretty keen to give it a go


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## Beerzebub (Nov 20, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> Sounds very reasonably priced especially given the size. If I can find something in a native timber that performs closely to walnut I’d be pretty keen to give it a go


I got this one from a small maker called Chopmate, it seems like just a one-person operation, found a recommendation on a local forum and went for it. Probably the most important thing to watch out for is to make sure the maker doesn't treat the wood with anything other than mineral oil.


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## mouton29 (Nov 20, 2022)

My primary food prep is on a large 24 x 48 x 10 thick butcher block maple end grain table but in the last few months I’ve started using a lightweight Hinoki board for serious chopping. I’ve found my knife edges last longer. I can feel the knife cutting a bit into the Hinoki.


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## Vaughan (Nov 20, 2022)

*** Update ***

I have just ordered this Red Grandis (Rose Gum) end grain board from ChoppaBlock. 

Janka score from website is 5.3. So a bit harder than walnut but softer than maple.

Cant wait to receive it


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## jedy617 (Nov 20, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> *** Update ***
> 
> I have just ordered this Red Grandis (Rose Gum) end grain board from ChoppaBlock.
> 
> ...


congrats, looks great


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## Corradobrit1 (Nov 20, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> *** Update ***
> 
> I have just ordered this Red Grandis (Rose Gum) end grain board from ChoppaBlock.
> 
> ...


Nice. The offset blocks will also make a thinner block more resilient


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## JoBone (Nov 20, 2022)

Beautiful board, but not one that I would purchase. I tend to obsess over wood… 

While the hardness and durability look great, my concern is the open pores, it’s not a tight grain. With open pores, there is room for bacteria to embed in the board. The board will work, but will required more maintenance, both cleaning and oiling/waxing. 


Rose Gum End Grain : 
*Diffuse-porous; exclusively solitary; large to very large pores in no specific arrangement,* few to very few; tyloses present; parenchyma vasicentric, confluent; narrow rays, spacing fairly close.


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## Vaughan (Nov 20, 2022)

JoBone said:


> Beautiful board, but not one that I would purchase. I tend to obsess over wood…
> 
> While the hardness and durability look great, my concern is the open pores, it’s not a tight grain. With open pores, there is room for bacteria to embed in the board. The board will work, but will required more maintenance, both cleaning and oiling/waxing.
> 
> ...


I was of the understanding Walnut had reasonably large pores too. 

Could you provide a bit of guide regarding cleaning to reduce the chance of harmful bacteria growth. 

I will not be cutting raw proteins on this board, which hopefully will assist with regard to this.


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## Vaughan (Nov 20, 2022)

JoBone said:


> Beautiful board, but not one that I would purchase. I tend to obsess over wood…
> 
> While the hardness and durability look great, my concern is the open pores, it’s not a tight grain. With open pores, there is room for bacteria to embed in the board. The board will work, but will required more maintenance, both cleaning and oiling/waxing.
> 
> ...


Also I think there have been similar concerns regarding larch wood, but I have yet to see much negative feedback from people who have bought them.


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## jedy617 (Nov 20, 2022)

Definitely much smaller pores with walnut:

Also I defer to all things wood to Joe, he's the expert. I think the simple stuff like walnut, cherry etc are usually best


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## JoBone (Nov 21, 2022)

Vaughan said:


> I was of the understanding Walnut had reasonably large pores too.
> 
> Could you provide a bit of guide regarding cleaning to reduce the chance of harmful bacteria growth.
> 
> I will not be cutting raw proteins on this board, which hopefully will assist with regard to this.



Walnut is semi-ring-porous - the pores start out large when the tree is young (earlywood) and gradually become smaller as it ages (latewood)

Rose Gum is Diffuse-porous, which means the pores are the same size in earlywood vs latewood. In this case, large pores from start to finish.


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## BazookaJoe (Nov 21, 2022)

My current board is a 20" x 13" x 2"... end grain white oak with walnut trim. Was a birthday present from my wife for my 60th birthday, 3 years ago. Love it! Treated it liberally with mineral oil for the first 6 months... now it gets a coat now and then. My knife edges seem to last pretty good and the feel on the board is very nice. As to people being wary of wood boards with regard to cleaning and bacteria, I've used end grain boards for over 40 year, cutting vegetables, meat, fish, etc. and I've never had food poisoning, nor have the many hundreds of people I've cooked for in all those years. I do wash my knives and board after meat or fish, but I've also noticed a reluctance of people to wash their wood boards. I get the tap water hot, put the board in the sink and with a squirt of dish detergent scrub the board down with a brush or scrubbing sponge. A quick wipe with a towel or paper towel leaves the surface dry. As long as the board is well oiled the water will not harm the wood. As always... ymmv.


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## salparadise (Nov 25, 2022)

jedy617 said:


> Just in case he ships international, this guy is local from me and by day does a lot of big commercial jobs with wood. I've used the board for years and it's held up perfectly. Honestly feels like a steal at the price. Black Walnut Butcher Block Cutting Board New End Grain 14 X 18 Sap Pattern | eBay


I bought a 20X16 end grain in cherry from 277wood based on your recommendation. Delivered today and it's beautiful –– almost hate to use it for cutting. I'm thinking about getting something cheap, thin, light, and dishwasher safe like an Epicurean to lay on top for proteins.

My older cutting board warped after I started sharpening knives on it. I'd had it for over ten years. It was from Bed Bath and Beyond. Not expensive or particularly high quality but it was end grain. I may have my friend trim it down where it's separating and use it as a smaller second board. Guess I'm in the market for a sink bridge now.


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## jedy617 (Nov 25, 2022)

salparadise said:


> I bought a 20X16 end grain in cherry from 277wood based on your recommendation. Delivered today and it's beautiful –– almost hate to use it for cutting. I'm thinking about getting something cheap, thin, light, and dishwasher safe like an Epicurean to lay on top for proteins.
> 
> My older cutting board warped after I started sharpening knives on it. I'd had it for over ten years. It was from Bed Bath and Beyond. Not expensive or particularly high quality but it was end grain. I may have my friend trim it down where it's separating and use it as a smaller second board. Guess I'm in the market for a sink bridge now.
> 
> View attachment 210550


Awesome


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## buendia (Jan 5, 2023)

I want to buy a cutting board made of acacia by Zassenhaus. I like the dark looks very much. Do you think it will be OK for my knives?


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## Dan- (Jan 5, 2023)

No, it is too hard. It’s like 2200ish janka whereas maple is 1450 or so.


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## AT5760 (Jan 5, 2023)

I've been using an acacia board for ~3 years. As a home cook, I don't notice it being particularly hard on edges compared to my old edge grain maple. It's definitely harder on edges than my new cherry board, but I think acacia is probably fine for most home users.


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## Beerzebub (Jan 5, 2023)

buendia said:


> I want to buy a cutting board made of acacia by Zassenhaus. I like the dark looks very much. Do you think it will be OK for my knives?


I think I've heard Beech is a good economical option in Europe? Cooking is funner if you don't have to worry about what you're doing to your knife's edge.


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## jedy617 (Jan 5, 2023)

Acacia is a massive genus of over 1000 species. What acacia?


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## buendia (Jan 6, 2023)

I have no idea what species of acacia can it be. I like the looks of it so much better than my old beech board that I decided to buy it anyway.... I am quite good at sharpening so that should be no big issue. As far as the cutting feel is concerned, I will see. In case I don't like it I can sell it later.


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## jedy617 (Jan 6, 2023)

Looks nice, I'm sure you will be fine


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## blokey (Jan 6, 2023)

I'm so close to buy this so many times...








358 Small Maple 12 x 18


Occasionally we make cutting boards that we call "Frankenboards". Frankenboard: When making butcher block, the first step is to glue up a large panel. We then cross-cut strips from that panel, turning them on end in sequence and gluing those together to form the final butcher block. We often...




theboardsmith.com


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## Jovidah (Jan 6, 2023)

Beerzebub said:


> I think I've heard Beech is a good economical option in Europe? Cooking is funner if you don't have to worry about what you're doing to your knife's edge.


Yep... beech may be a bit boring, but they work really well, are right in the sweetspot for hardness, and are cheap as hell to boot.

As others have pointed out (and as a result I only recently learned) there's a whole bunch of different varieties of acacia wood, so it's hard to make blanket statements. I wasn't thrilled about the ones I used (from Ikea) because they were too hard, but that might not be a universal problem.

That being said if youóre on a budget and you want something that just works I'd personally go for beechwood since you can get really good thick end-grain boards for surprisingly little money.


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## JASinIL2006 (Jan 6, 2023)

buendia said:


> View attachment 217932
> I have no idea what species of acacia can it be. I like the looks of it so much better than my old beech board that I decided to buy it anyway.... I am quite good at sharpening so that should be no big issue. As far as the cutting feel is concerned, I will see. In case I don't like it I can sell it later.



Looks identical to a couple of "Ironwood Gourmet" brand acacia boards I bought off Amazon. The wood is pretty hard, but as a home cook I don't find it has any particularly bad effects on my knives compared to, say, HDPE cutting boards.


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## buendia (Jan 6, 2023)

JASinIL2006 said:


> Looks identical to a couple of "Ironwood Gourmet" brand acacia boards I bought off Amazon. The wood is pretty hard, but as a home cook I don't find it has any particularly bad effects on my knives compared to, say, HDPE cutting boards.



Yes, the wood looks identical. They are manufactured in Thailand. Supposedly from local acacia...


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## Dan- (Jan 6, 2023)

I couldn’t find any acacia numbers in the lower ranges, so I wasn’t sure it mattered. sorry, just min/maxing as usual.


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## mpier (Jan 6, 2023)

Crate and Barrel has this little monster on its web site 21”x14”x3” thick, I’ve thought about getting it like ten times but just can’t pull the trigger. Probably get a Jones or Boos board but you can’t beat the price for that size.


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## jedy617 (Jan 6, 2023)

Dan- said:


> I couldn’t find any acacia numbers in the lower ranges, so I wasn’t sure it mattered. sorry, just min/maxing as usual.


For reference, koa and tasmanian blackwood are both acacias around 1k janka. Thought about making my own tasmanian blackwood board.

So far have stuck to the tried and true, maple, mahogany, cherry, and some purpleheart(yes I know a bit hard)


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## Beerzebub (Saturday at 7:21 AM)

jedy617 said:


> Just in case he ships international, this guy is local from me and by day does a lot of big commercial jobs with wood. I've used the board for years and it's held up perfectly. Honestly feels like a steal at the price. Black Walnut Butcher Block Cutting Board New End Grain 14 X 18 Sap Pattern | eBay


By the way thanks for the tip, I got a walnut board from him as a gift for my parents in law in the States and they love it. Now I just have to try to get them to put mineral oil on it and everything


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## Delat (Saturday at 10:14 AM)

blokey said:


> I'm so close to buy this so many times...
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Damn that’s a nice deal - $140 for a Boardsmith! Just an inch too small each way for me or I’d grab one.


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## Delat (Saturday at 10:27 AM)

AT5760 said:


> I've been using an acacia board for ~3 years. As a home cook, I don't notice it being particularly hard on edges compared to my old edge grain maple. It's definitely harder on edges than my new cherry board, but I think acacia is probably fine for most home users.



I got a gorgeous maple and walnut end grain Boardsmith a couple years ago which my wife promptly declared too beautiful for me to scratch up. So she claimed it for herself as basically a glorified placemat for her morning bagel prep area and bought me a cheap acacia end-grain from Etsy instead  

So I’ve been using the Acacia for a couple years now and my knives are just fine. I only cook a couple times a week for 2 people, and rotate through about 6-8 knives so they get light use. At most I’ve lightly honed a few on a strop or 4000 grit stone but most are holding up very well in terms of edge retention. I’m pretty gentle in general when it comes to cutting and board contact though especially as most of my knives are thin and light geometry, not workhorses. So it might be different from someone who cuts with more aggressive board contact.


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