# Grinding tips



## tk59 (Dec 3, 2011)

I notice everyone seems to cut the profile and then thin the blade, including the tip. I'm finding that I tend to destroy tips fairly often that way. Is there anything wrong with thinning first and then finishing the tip profile? Am I the only one that needs to make three tips for every knife I grind?


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## PierreRodrigue (Dec 3, 2011)

I would say no, there is nothing wrong with it. No one says it has to be this way or its wrong! The only thing you may find after you profile, is there might be too much thickness on the tip for your liking. A solution might be to cut a 250mm blank instead of 240, do everything as you do now, when done, "adjust" the tip/length to where you want it, thus giving you a little more material on the tip.


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## Don Nguyen (Dec 3, 2011)

I have the same problem when I'm grinding down a blade.

One thing I saw someone do is they leave a little extra material right on the tip; like a little blob of extra metal hanging there. Helps with grinding down without destroying the tip, and when you're ready, just grind off the blob in like 2 seconds. Don't think I'll be able to find a picture, but it looks like a fat water droplet on the end.


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## Mike Davis (Dec 3, 2011)

An idea that i have tried, trying to learn the wharncliff grind, is to leave a "tab" on the tip...Think of the shape as kind of a popsicle. That way you can grind in your bevels, make any adjustments you need, then grind in your profile. Tinh, what type of grinder do you have? Also what type of belts are you using?


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## RRLOVER (Dec 3, 2011)

tk59 said:


> I notice everyone seems to cut the profile and then thin the blade, including the tip. I'm finding that I tend to destroy tips fairly often that way. Is there anything wrong with thinning first and then finishing the tip profile? Am I the only one that needs to make three tips for every knife I grind?




You should be able to adjust your profile at almost any point of rough grinding.Are the tips breaking off or are you burning them up??


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## tk59 (Dec 3, 2011)

I believe I have the cheapest grinder on the planet (HF 1x30). I'm definitely burning up the tips. It's a lot better with fresh belts. I'm using some cheapies right now that I got from Home Depot or Lowes. Maybe I need to go to Cubitron or Blaze?


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## Eamon Burke (Dec 3, 2011)

usaknifemaker.com sells Blaze in 1x30.

Getting good, fresh belts will make a shocking difference in the amount of heat generated.


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## RRLOVER (Dec 3, 2011)

I see a real grinder in your near future.


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## PierreRodrigue (Dec 3, 2011)

Hard to beat Blaze. Gators are great to, if you can find that size.


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## tk59 (Dec 3, 2011)

RRLOVER said:


> I see a real grinder in your near future.


Haha. So did I until my wife got wind of it. I'll have to find someplace other than home to keep it.


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## JBroida (Dec 3, 2011)

you can keep it up here


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## tk59 (Dec 3, 2011)

JBroida said:


> you can keep it up here


Are you sure you (and Sara) know what you're getting into?:devilburn:


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## JBroida (Dec 3, 2011)

i'll get you an aerobed for the store too


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## Mike Davis (Dec 3, 2011)

LOL!!! There is a kit grinder from polar bear forge that is really reasonable, pretty much add a motor, a few wheels and go! I can see very little sleep in your future Tinh:coffeelove:....The issue with the 1x30 is, no speed adjustment. 3450 rpm's from start to finish is not really a good thing...At least until your comfortable grinding on it. Works great(with good belts) for rough shaping handles. Also you can use a fresh..ish 400 grit belt to start your edge bevels...go fast and dip in water often.


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