# Scandinavian Grind. keeping it sharp.



## boomchakabowwow (Sep 10, 2014)

cant believe this.

i am hunting knife shopping. i think i want a scandi grind blade. why? i just butchered a deer with a $12 Mora Companion. it was fantastic. i pushed the envelope and cut some muddy hide and dulled the edge. i used the only sharpener i had in my backpack..an Accusharp. it worked altho it was made for convex grinds. worked enough that i cut thru my little finger..it was a gusher. i had to finish butcher work with a nitrile glove on..and my finger wrapped super tight.

i am having a difficult time finding a replacement for the MORA. why? it is that good. cheap feeling, ZERO fanfare, very boring..very very functional.but ugly..okay i said it.

i think i like the Blindhorse Woodsman Pro. but damn..it is costly. maybe i will just make or buy a real sheath for the mora.

what do you think would be the ideal tool to hone the edge in the field. just a diamond stone?


----------



## WillC (Sep 10, 2014)

I would do your bevels maintenance at home and give it the tiniest of tiny micro bevels. Use a small waterstone to work the micro bevel in the field to touch it up has required, micro bevel will grow a touch as you do, then thin it back out again at home. This works for me. Mora stainless is sandvic 12c I think, very fine grained and not the hardest so really easy to touch up with a fine waterstone and mini strop.


----------



## Noodle Soup (Sep 11, 2014)

The true Scandinavian grind is pretty much a wood carving edge. The user lays the blade flat against the edge bevel up to the center of the blade on both sides so there really isn't much of a secondary bevel. Some of us feel a bit of a secondary edge bevel makes for a stronger cutting surface in general use. Scan edges are also not universally used in the Nordic countries. I'm holding two Hultafors knives a friend brought back from Finland a couple of weeks ago. Both have strong secondary edge bevels.


----------

