# Securing Japanese Style Handles



## gregfisk (Mar 11, 2020)

I’m new here and fairly new to knife making. I’m currently making Santoku knives with epoxy resin handles that I pour and grind myself.

My issue is securing the handle to the blade. Since I mount my end caps on ahead of time I only have a 1/16” by 1/2” slot to get my two part epoxy glue into. This means heating it up and thinning it to get it inside the handle. Heating the epoxy speeds up even the 30 minute glue to scary hardening speeds which really stresses me out

So, my question is does anyone use another type of glue that is thin enough and doesn’t set up so fast? And of course it needs to be strong enough to hold up. It also needs to fill the 5/16” - 8mm tube that runs through the handle.

I tried posting a picture here but I seem to be the only person who can see it?

Thank you,

Greg


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## gregfisk (Mar 12, 2020)

So, no glue experts here? I was hoping someone new a thin slow curing glue I could fill my handles with. I just installed a handle and it worked okay. I heated up the epoxy and used a syringe to get it into the handle. The problem is when you heat up epoxy it hardens fast so no time for mistakes.


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## parbaked (Mar 12, 2020)

Try hot glue stick shavings, and a heat gun.


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## Carl Kotte (Mar 12, 2020)

I think this topic was up for discussion the other day. IIRC, the answer was melt glue.


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## M1k3 (Mar 12, 2020)

https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/wa-handles-hidden-tangs-ferrules-and-wax-vs-epoxy.45775/


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## gregfisk (Mar 12, 2020)

Well, I Never would have thought of that. So, do you heat up your blade with a heat gun? 

I just read the other thread, thanks m1k3. So, I still have my above question regarding the use of hot glue. So you fill the handle with pieces of hot glue then heat the blade and push it in?


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## M1k3 (Mar 12, 2020)

Heat the tang. I'm sure you could also get the glue in from the gun, then install it. But probably less messy to heat the tang.


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## HSC /// Knives (Mar 12, 2020)

other options, 

a 2 part epoxy that comes in syringe form with mixing nozzle dispenser.
or Golfworks 2 part epoxy (EZ Pour High Strength) is 24 hour and pretty runny.


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## toddnmd (Mar 13, 2020)

On a YouTube video (think it was Maksim’s), he suggested using your bare hand to hold the blade, then heat the tang with a blow torch or over a burner. As long as the blade doesn’t get too hot to hold, you won’t mess up the tempering of the blade.


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## gregfisk (Mar 13, 2020)

HSC /// Knives said:


> other options,
> 
> a 2 part epoxy that comes in syringe form with mixing nozzle dispenser.
> or Golfworks 2 part epoxy (EZ Pour High Strength) is 24 hour and pretty runny.


Thanks for the info, I’ll look into the Golfworks epoxy. I tried the auto mix syringes but it just won’t push into the 1/16th slot.


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## gregfisk (Mar 13, 2020)

toddnmd said:


> On a YouTube video (think it was Maksim’s), he suggested using your bare hand to hold the blade, then heat the tang with a blow torch or over a burner. As long as the blade doesn’t get too hot to hold, you won’t mess up the tempering of the blade.


Thanks Todd, it seems like a torch would work well, just can’t get the blade too hot.


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## MowgFace (Mar 13, 2020)

Ive seen people stab a potato onto the blade, slide down to protect the heel and neck from scorching or getting too hot.

Thought it was silly, but seemed to work.


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## Dave Martell (Mar 15, 2020)

G/Flex 650 (!) pours into narrow slots even when it's cold in the shop. Freezing temps are a whole other thing though, then you'll have to heat it like any other. Just keep the epoxy warm and it'll flow nicely.


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## gregfisk (Mar 16, 2020)

Dave Martell said:


> G/Flex 650 (!) pours into narrow slots even when it's cold in the shop. Freezing temps are a whole other thing though, then you'll have to heat it like any other. Just keep the epoxy warm and it'll flow nicely.


This sounds great Dave! I’ll give it a try. Appreciate the information!


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## Dave Martell (Mar 16, 2020)

gregfisk said:


> This sounds great Dave! I’ll give it a try. Appreciate the information!



A great guy passed this onto me years ago so I'm simply paying it forward.


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## John N (Mar 21, 2020)

I use 'fastglas' resin, its the 2 part you get with a fiberglass repair kit from a car repair place. Its very liquid, takes about 20 mins to go off, so you have plenty of working time. It does not shrink, its cheap, its virtually indestructable.

cant believe more makers dont use it! - The day you have to take a handle off, as its glued in 'on the pop' you realise how good it is! (and as a side benefit, if you dont use it in a well ventilated place you get a buzz off the fumes )


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## John N (Mar 21, 2020)

I mix the fibreglass resin in an aerosol can plastic cap (lid), you can 'pinch' the edge of the cap to make a little pouring spout! when the excess resin goes off in the cap, you can knock it out as a solid lump and re-use the lid. Ive been using the same lid for the last 50 knives or so


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## gregfisk (Mar 21, 2020)

Thanks for the info John. I’ve never used that type of product so wasn’t aware how thin it is. Can you purchase it by itself without the kit? If so what’s it called? 

I looked up the product that Dave suggested and that looks promising as well. I knew there had to be products out there that would fit the bill, I just didn’t know of any.


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## John N (Mar 21, 2020)

@gregfisk yes, you can just buy the resin and hardener without the fiberglass mat! I only know of a few makers using it, which I put onto it ! (im an engineer, so dont follow the herd and work out the easy way of doing things!) - Ill find a link for the stuff i use in a min.!


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## John N (Mar 21, 2020)

@gregfisk - this is the resin I use, readily available in the UK, your source may vary.

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/p...paration/davids-fastglas-resin-1l-363991.html

In a couple of years, when all the cool kids are using it will I get any recognition?  ..... im guessing not !


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## gregfisk (Mar 21, 2020)

Thanks John, I know what you’re talking about now. The brand is different in the states but it’s readily available. I’m not an engineer but I do invent and build products to make what I’m doing easier. If you look at the end of my cutting tang slots thread you’ll see one of my contraptions. A slot cutter made with a trim router. It works great and saves me a lot of time. Not to mention I get a really nice end result. I’ve made several machines and devices for my new knife making hobby. They really help make the job easier. And to answer your question, no, you won’t get credit when everyone is using your idea. Thanks again!


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