# First Knife from Scratch



## Thom (Oct 2, 2015)

I've decided to make a blade from precision ground O1 tool steel. stock removal. Thoughts?



I do need to know where I can get it heat treated well. 



3/32 thick 1 3/4 wide and a small Petty. Hidden tang. 



As for the handle I want nice wood like redwood burl or koa. 



Ideas?


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## Sabaki (Oct 3, 2015)

Good steel, like it a lot! go for it and good luck:doublethumbsup:

post pictures as you progress if you need any feedback


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## buttermilk (Oct 3, 2015)

Peters' Heat Treat (http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html) is one of the standards for guys that don't heat treat in-house. They're great and consistent and will work with your specifications. Employing their services makes the most sense when your dealing with at least a handful of blades, but they'll happily HT a single blade as well. Be sure to not grind too thin before HT.


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## Thom (Oct 3, 2015)

Thanks guys. I just ordered 72 inches of precision ground O1 from Precision Marshall for $71 total. $1 an inch to the home. Nice.

Thank you for the HT info. My plan is to cut and grind 5 blades for friends. I'm seeing that the 3/32 is a little too think for a paring knife blade. My original plan was to cut out Pettys and paring knives from the same stock. I'll have to rethink this unless you guys have ideas. All knives will be hidden tang.

By the way, what is too thin before HT?

The grinder issue is heavy on my mind right now. I have a home belt sander (Ryobi 4x36) that I have used for 1 knife and a rehandle so far. I want a KMG, but don't have the disposable income to pay for one. Looking at those plans for a weld-free grinding using steel tube. Thoughts?


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## gic (Oct 3, 2015)

This thread really interest me, is 01 the best steel for a beginner who is trying to learn to cut and and then grind knives, would a simple steel like 1095CV or W1 be even better?? While we wait for Marko's grinder to be come available, whats's the best relatively inexpensive tool for doing the initial cutting?

TIA


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## Chuckles (Oct 4, 2015)

A band saw to cut from stock to profile. Like this one: 

http://www.factoryauthorizedoutlet....Q95gCxKOoeJSteUyezcT8qGaTsEGTMfARcaAmUY8P8HAQ

On a stand like this one:

http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-V20-Portaband-Table_p_56.html


Or use your drill press to drill holes along the profile and cut between the holes with a rotary tool. 

Knife grinders on the less expensive side of the spectrum:

http://m.2x72beltgrinder.com

http://www.esteemgrinders.com

Belts for any grinder here:

https://trugrit.com


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## J_Style (Oct 5, 2015)

Look at Wilmont Grinders, they make the lb-1000 2x72. I should have mine next week.


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## PolishAvenger (Oct 14, 2015)

Thom, you may want to put your location in your profile....there could be guys like me, who have knifemaking equipment and the will to show novices how to use it, in your neighborhood.
-Mark


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## Thom (Oct 14, 2015)

PA, thanks for the idea. I'm in the Dallas area. I just went to see family in OK last weekend and stopped by Jantz Supply and went over my budget for things to buy. This weekend I begin a paring knife and a chef knife. I didn't like the look of the Petty so found a different design and changed it up a little.

Anyone know where to get O1 heat-treated?


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## James (Oct 14, 2015)

I've read that a lot of people use Peters Heat Treat


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## Thom (Oct 17, 2015)

I started with my stock last night and traced out 3 blades - a chef and 2 paring knives. I tried to drill and outline and the hacksaw was not up to cutting O1 tool steel and broke 2 bits. 

Had to use the angle grinder to rough cut the blanks out. Moved to the grinder and managed to shape the paring knife blank with 36 grit. Slow go on my 4x36.

I'll put up some pictures later.

Question: I need a good bandsaw for cutting the blanks out of my stock. Ideas? Recommendations?


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## J_Style (Oct 17, 2015)

I have a Milwaukee portaband with a swag table. I use Lenox blades that you can get at Lowes.


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## Thom (Oct 17, 2015)

Well, I got out there this evening after scribing a 1/32 double line on the edge of the 3 blanks. I am still grinding away on that first bevel. argghhhh.






The tracings of the templates.










The first blank after profiling.


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## daveb (Oct 17, 2015)




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## mkriggen (Oct 18, 2015)

Yeah, pretty dark over hear too. Saw your comment about using a 4x36 belt sander. All I can say is...don't, just don't. There is no such thing as a 4x36 belt grinder, they're made for wood and turn much to fast for metal, besides the fact that nobody makes metal grinding belts for them. I use a 4x36 belt sander for shaping handles, and just non-ferrous spacers trash the belts (and I buy good belts). I can't imagine how quick blade steel would go through one. Get at least a 2x48, or better yet a 2x72, belt grinder. Even if it's a cheap crappy one, it'll do you better then trying to use a 4x36.

Be well,
Mikey


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## TB_London (Oct 18, 2015)

A lot of people mod the platen on a 4" grinder so it will take 2" belts. A couple of self tapping screws to hold the raised section in place allows it to be removable if you need to revert to 4". With decent ceramic belts there is virtually no such thing as too fast, too slow will wear them out much quicker. The issue is the motor power isn't usually enough, 1hp per inch of belt is the rule of thumb.

O1 is a good steel to start with, relatively easy to work and can be home treated relatively easily. With a top notch heat treat it'll be you're knife making skills rather than the steel that becomes the limiting factor.

Good luck, ask questions and post pics


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## Thom (Oct 18, 2015)

Okay Mickey, you won. I hated using the 4x36 anyway, so I went to Harbor Freight and bought a 1x30. It cuts about the same, but I do have the ability to remove the platen and with it being narrower it is easier to use.


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## Thom (Oct 21, 2015)

I went and got a 40 grit belt and its cutting now. Just ordered some Norton belts today.


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## buttermilk (Oct 21, 2015)

Maybe I'm getting ahead of where this is at, but be careful with those 1x30s. They're screaming fast and can burn up (too hot) a hardened blade in no time. Also, the L-shaped "flat" platens on them are next to useless for flat grinds. The platen has too much give and you end up creating a convex grind where you aimed for flat. I know some makers, if they keep a 1x30 around, brace the platen or just replace it with something more solid. If this seems like too much too soon, at least check the angle of position of your platen. For flat grinding, your platen should be _just_ proud of your wheels.

As J_Style said, the portaband with a home-made mount or Swag table is the standard for cutting your profile on a budget.


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## Thom (Oct 21, 2015)

Yes, I'm having the issue with a slight convex grind on the main bevel. I'll work with the platen a little as it is behind the wheels.


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## Thom (Oct 29, 2015)

Before I send the blades off for heat treat what grit do I need to get down to? 220 or 400 or lower?


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## buttermilk (Oct 29, 2015)

The more you refine the finish before HT, the less you'll have to fight the hardened blade and worry about overheating afterwards. Also, a more refined finish has the potential to reduce fatal results during HT. I'd suggest taking it as close to your final finish as possible, while keeping your edge at .02" or thicker. Again, I don't want to dissuade you from posting these questions here but I think you'll have much better luck just using Google to search bladeforums.com. Search like this: heat treat finish site:bladeforums.com. See that search here.


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## BloodrootLS (Nov 22, 2015)

gic said:


> This thread really interest me, is 01 the best steel for a beginner who is trying to learn to cut and and then grind knives, would a simple steel like 1095CV or W1 be even better?? While we wait for Marko's grinder to be come available, whats's the best relatively inexpensive tool for doing the initial cutting?
> 
> TIA



Just a note- any steel over 0.77%C or so (1080 or 1084), though it pretty much only have carbon in it is not an "easy" steel to heat treat. Heat control becomes VERY important for steels with more carbon than this. 1095, files, W1, etc are almost always overheated and/or incompletely quenched by people getting started and it makes things more confusing and difficult than it needs to be. Stick to something eutectic (around 0.77%C) and you will have a much easier time getting good results and will still get the full hardness that steel can achieve. 1080 tempered to HRC 63-64 is tough and performs quite well. Far better than most maker's 1095, O1, or other hypereutetic steel heat treated without proper control and hold times. 

~Luke


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## Thom (Nov 22, 2015)

So since I last responded I met a longtime maker near me and I am now getting mentored. 

I was able to hardened a batch of blades yesterday in his forge and I just finished tempering them 3 times. 

About to start grinding and sanding down to the highest grit I can and get ready to finish.

I bought a bunch of 'scrap' figured mesquite for some handles. I'm told I don't need to stabilize it due to its density. Thoughts? Would stabilizing make it prettier and easier to take care of?


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## Thom (Dec 3, 2015)

Well, here is the progress.

Started with a few materials.





Cut the blanks out...





Some of the other blades in progress...





Got it all epoxied up and ground and sanded the handle and guard...





Just finishing the edge with an Lansky System kit and then ready to do a little something with a defect/fissure in the Snake Wood handle I found.


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