# What size block of wood for Wa-Handles



## stereo.pete (Nov 1, 2014)

Ok, I am going to crowd source the experts here. What size wood block do you typically choose when making a wood handle?
Thanks,

Pete


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## mkriggen (Nov 1, 2014)

I generally look for a piece at least 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 5" to start with, but depending on the handle I have in mind and the quality of the blank (i.e. is it already smooth and square), I'll sometimes use smaller pieces. If you're going to make a very traditional style handle where the main piece extends all the way through the ferrule you'll need a longer blank.

Be well,
Mikey


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## stereo.pete (Nov 1, 2014)

That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks!


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## mkriggen (Nov 1, 2014)

No problem, let me know if there's anything else I can do to help.

Be well,
Mikey


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## CPD (Nov 1, 2014)

+1 to what Mikey said. I usually try to stay at 1 1/4" in block width. If I'm using something stabilized I may try to go 1 1/2 square so I can shave an 1/8 off the outside before shaping.
Length will vary depending on the knife and whether or not I'm using different materials for ferrule/end cap/spacer parts.

I mostly make D handles so on occasion I'll also use odd size blocks (not square) or, if making a handle for a smaller knife, use something smaller.


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## stereo.pete (Nov 1, 2014)

Are there any ground rules when shaping the tang of a knife? I know the question probably seems quite simple, but I was wondering if I needed to have it taper or would the same width tang be ok?

Thanks,

Pete


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## mkriggen (Nov 2, 2014)

stereo.pete said:


> Are there any ground rules when shaping the tang of a knife? I know the question probably seems quite simple, but I was wondering if I needed to have it taper or would the same width tang be ok?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Pete



Depends on how you're going to mount the handle. If you're going to do a traditional burn on handle the tang needs to be tapered. If you're going to epoxy on the handle a straight tang is fine. I make my handles to accommodate up to a 1/2" tall tang as this is the widest I've see from any of the Japanese makers. The main thing is, if you're doing a glue on handle, the straighter and flatter the tang, the better the fit.

Be well,
Mikey


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## pkjames (Nov 2, 2014)

IMO burn in has lots of limitations, like it is hard to achieve with hardwood, and takes a lot of skill or it is very easy to end up not straight. I like the big hole + glue in idea.


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## stereo.pete (Nov 2, 2014)

Thanks again guys!


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## Dave Martell (Nov 2, 2014)

I'd go with a 6x6x6 block to allow lots of room for my screwups.


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## mkriggen (Nov 2, 2014)

Dave Martell said:


> I'd go with a 6x6x6 block to allow lots of room for my screwups.



Is that like the sculptor staring at a boulder trying to figure out whats hidden inside?


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## Dave Martell (Nov 2, 2014)

mkriggen said:


> Is that like the sculptor staring at a boulder trying to figure out whats hidden inside?




Yeah exactly!


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## Burl Source (Nov 2, 2014)

I like mine a little bit bigger....


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## Dave Martell (Nov 2, 2014)

That's probably one handle for me Mark.


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## Geo87 (Nov 2, 2014)

Dave Martell said:


> That's probably one handle for me Mark.



Your going to need a big belt!


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## Burl Source (Nov 5, 2014)

Just goofing.
The most common block size requests I get for kitchen knives.
Minimum dimensions, WA 1&1/8 x 1&1/4 x 5&1/2, Western 1 x 1&1/2 x 5
but there can be lots of variations in size depending on the knife.


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