# I ****ed up.... used a rust eraser on my brand new Tetsujin



## skahunter831 (Jul 27, 2022)

Well I finally dove in deep and bought a Tetsujin Tanrysuen k-tip gyuto, which was delivered yesterday. Gorgeous knife. Until I ****ed it up. It looked like it had some lacquer from the shipping, so instead of actually asking anyone or doing any research, I figured my rust eraser should take care of it. Nope. Instead I just marred the finish and made it look like hell. Facepalm. How can I remedy this? I've since used acetone to wipe off the knife per Jon as JKI's video, and I'm not sure it even had anything on to begin with.

I have a variety of abrasives, including micro mesh, and have some experience with finishing generally (wood mostly). Does anyone have any pointers or instructions for how I can at least even out the finish and hopefully make it look close to new? Thanks!


----------



## Pie (Jul 27, 2022)

My second hand stress is currently immeasurable. 

This is… going to be a bit of a process to restore. My first instinct is to use sandpapers to restore the hairline finish, then fingerstones or powders to bring back the frostiness. One with more experience may have suggestions as to what grit to start/end at, and which powders to use. Uchigumori would be my guess. That’s way oversimplified, and maybe there’s a better way but that’s my guess. 

There’s going to be some learning and a bit of effort spent on this if it’s to be done properly. Take your time, do the research, and good luck sir!


----------



## skahunter831 (Jul 27, 2022)

Thanks for the encouragement. My shame is similarly immeasurable.


----------



## Pie (Jul 27, 2022)

There’s a first time for everything . Hopefully you come out of it with a relatively new looking tetsujin, and some some knowledge/skills gained!


----------



## ethompson (Jul 27, 2022)

A lesson learned… It’s definitely fixable though! To temper expectations, you might never get the exact same finish, but you can get something very nice none the less.

@Pie is definitely on the right track. I’d suggest hand sanding this back to a nice even hairline finish, probably finishing somewhere around 2k or a clean 1.5k. Maybe some stone powder will be needed after that, but with the heavily etched finish these come with, I bet it won’t need it. From there you’ll need to try etching it. Based on the color of the core steel, I’d start with diluted ferric chloride.

If you need some stone powder you can PM me, I think I have some extra somewhere.


----------



## esoo (Jul 27, 2022)

Use the knife and don't stress over it. Get lots of patina on it. Then work to bring the finish back. Gives you time to research what to do, and as well see what happens as you patina it.

Part of having a carbon knife is using it, making it look like hell and then, if you so desire, bringing it back to "new". Carbon knives are living things.


----------



## Bico Doce (Jul 27, 2022)

I think there is always that initial disappointment with any new knife where you use it the finish doesn’t look like new anymore. But then you just stop caring so much about it and put it too work. IMHO, this knife will look better with a good patina and some battle scars over a factory finish.


----------



## skahunter831 (Jul 27, 2022)

ethompson said:


> i’d suggest hand sanding this back to a nice even hairline finish, probably finishing somewhere around 2k or a clean 1.5k. Maybe some stone powder will be needed after that, but with the heavily etched finish these come with, I bet it won’t need it. From there you’ll need to try etching it. Based on the color of the core steel, I’d start with diluted ferric chloride.
> 
> If you need some stone powder you can PM me, I think I have some extra somewhere.



Thanks for the advice. Do you think micro mesh will work for this? I've seen people use them for knife polishing before.


----------



## skahunter831 (Jul 27, 2022)

Bico Doce said:


> I think there is always that initial disappointment with any new knife where you use it the finish doesn’t look like new anymore. But then you just stop caring so much about it and put it too work. IMHO, this knife will look better with a good patina and some battle scars over a factory finish.



well-said.


----------



## skahunter831 (Jul 27, 2022)

esoo said:


> Use the knife and don't stress over it. Get lots of patina on it. Then work to bring the finish back. Gives you time to research what to do, and as well see what happens as you patina it.
> 
> Part of having a carbon knife is using it, making it look like hell and then, if you so desire, bringing it back to "new". Carbon knives are living things.



Also well-said! Thanks, all


----------



## ethompson (Jul 27, 2022)

skahunter831 said:


> Thanks for the advice. Do you think micro mesh will work for this? I've seen people use them for knife polishing before.


Quite possibly. Going to depend on how deep the rust eraser scratches are I imagine. The key to a good looking etch is a very uniform scratch pattern. Keep your strokes tip to handle and you should be fine.


----------



## icanhaschzbrgr (Jul 27, 2022)

I don't think micro mesh is coarse enough to remove those scratches in a reasonable amount of time, but pics could be deceiving. I'd start with 320-600 grit and see whether its working ok or you need to go lower.


----------



## tostadas (Jul 27, 2022)

If trying to refinish, I'd personally try starting with 400grit sandpaper to see if it's enough to get a consistent scratch pattern. If not, then you will need to drop down lower, or spend a lot more time with 400. Progress up to maybe 1500 or so, then play around with stone powders which you can apply with a micromesh backing. The knife also appears to have an etch on it, which requires acids to redo. You can use lemon juice, but the result is not quite the same as stronger acids that are typically used, if you are trying to mimic the original finish exactly.

Right now, it may not look as pretty as the stock finish, but I think with a patina on the blade, you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference.


----------



## chefwp (Jul 27, 2022)

I'd use a progression of fine grit sandpaper. You probably won't get the original 'metal flow' pattern, but you'll still have a remarkable knife.
sandpaper pack


----------



## ITKKF (Jul 27, 2022)

A side question: what was the correct thing to do to remove the protective coating?


----------



## jedy617 (Jul 27, 2022)

ITKKF said:


> A side question: what was the correct thing to do to remove the protective coating?


Acetone


----------



## McMan (Jul 27, 2022)

1. Sandpaper + micromesh
2. Sandpaper + micromesh + stone powder
3. Sandpaper + micromesh + stone powder + acid etch

I'd just go #1, carefully, since the issue doesn't go past the cladding line. The finish will never look as-new no matter what method you use, but you should be able to get a decent finish on there fairly easily. In my way of thinking about this one, you're just trying to blend out the scratches and not do a full refinish. With use, the scratches will blend more.

--Be very careful not to involve the cladding line. This opens a whole new can of worms because it'll change what the cladding line looks like
--start with higher grits wet/dry and work to lower grits. This is to help you find the best low grit without starting with too aggressive a grit. Something like 800-600-400-320... Stop at the grit where you can't distinguish that grit from the old scratches. (Check by looking with a light. Once you can't tell new scratches from old, that's what you want.)
--Then start your progression. If you found that, say, 400 was a good starting point, then 400-600-800-1000-1500-2000. The higher grits might not be necessary. Just stop at a grit where you think it looks nice.
--clamp the knife by the handle to a work surface. Sand in full swipes over the length of the blade. Avoid going back and forth--this creates "fish hooks" (J-shaped sanding scratches). Avoid the cladding line if possible.


----------



## Benuser (Jul 27, 2022)

tostadas said:


> If trying to refinish, I'd personally try starting with 400grit sandpaper to see if it's enough to get a consistent scratch pattern. If not, then you will need to drop down lower, or spend a lot more time with 400. Progress up to maybe 1500 or so, then play around with stone powders which you can apply with a micromesh backing. The knife also appears to have an etch on it, which requires acids to redo. You can use lemon juice, but the result is not quite the same as stronger acids that are typically used, if you are trying to mimic the original finish exactly.
> 
> Right now, it may not look as pretty as the stock finish, but I think with a patina on the blade, you probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference.


You may consider to force a patina prior to any fine sanding.


----------



## EricEricEric (Jul 27, 2022)

You only need a natural finishing stone and etch with FeCl after to achieve the same finish. There’s a good chance these knives have zero low spots on them.

I would remove the handle use nagura bench stone, then suita and go until satisfied and keep the mud on the knife, then finish with jibiki finger stone. 

If you desire you can etch to return the finish back to original

This is the fastest and easiest method, you’ll regret these sandpaper


----------



## Pie (Jul 27, 2022)

EricEricEric said:


> You only need a natural finishing stone and etch wit FeCl after to achieve the same finish. There’s a good chance these knives have zero low spots on them.
> 
> I would remove the handle use nagura bench stone, then suita and go until satisfied and keep the mud on the knife, then finish with jibiki finger stone.
> 
> ...


Man… while I 100% agree with this, the level of skill, not to mention the stones, required to execute is pretty high. Not a lot of people have the polishing experience to pull it off on bench stones.

Sure wish I could, my first path would be sandpaper.


----------



## Harrison Cutlery (Jul 28, 2022)

Totally doable with a few hours of elbow grease. If you are nervous about doing it on such a high value knife, try refurbing an older one first to get the hang of it. Also be fairly careful not to cut yourself and don't spend much time on the tip or you will round it off

First of, if you can get the handle off without wrecking it do so, will finish cleaner at the machi. 

Cover the other side with some good quality clean masking tape. If you stop for any period of time remove this tape and clean residue. Fresh tape every time you work. 

Clamp it to an old pice of timber and go to town with sandpaper. You will need a backer. I like piece of timber with some leather glued to it for a tiny bit of give. Starting at 400-600 grit sand the effected areas and surrounds. Sand at 45 degrees to the existing scratches until they are all gone. (examine carefully under bright light to make sure scratches all run at 45 degrees. Be patient and don't move up a grit until scratches are completely gone. 

Go to 600 or 800 and repeat but over the whole blade, sanding at 45 degrees in the other direction (so 90 degrees to current marks)

Rinse and repeat to 1200. Do your last grit sanding lengthwise again first scrubbing then lastly single full length pulls to remove all the j hooks. You can polish with powder at this point if you want more definition in your transition

Clean the knife super thoroughly and etch in strong instant coffee (Google coffee etch) until the nice rich black surface is achieved on the kireha. You can etch with other acids but coffee will give you the deepest black. Takes much longer though. 


You may need to do a couple of etching and polishing cycles to really get some nice detail. 

Good luck!


----------



## nicksoko (Jul 28, 2022)

skahunter831 said:


> Well I finally dove in deep and bought a Tetsujin Tanrysuen k-tip gyuto, which was delivered yesterday. Gorgeous knife. Until I ****ed it up. It looked like it had some lacquer from the shipping, so instead of actually asking anyone or doing any research, I figured my rust eraser should take care of it. Nope. Instead I just marred the finish and made it look like hell. Facepalm. How can I remedy this? I've since used acetone to wipe off the knife per Jon as JKI's video, and I'm not sure it even had anything on to begin with.
> 
> I have a variety of abrasives, including micro mesh, and have some experience with finishing generally (wood mostly). Does anyone have any pointers or instructions for how I can at least even out the finish and hopefully make it look close to new? Thanks!





skahunter831 said:


> Well I finally dove in deep and bought a Tetsujin Tanrysuen k-tip gyuto, which was delivered yesterday. Gorgeous knife. Until I ****ed it up. It looked like it had some lacquer from the shipping, so instead of actually asking anyone or doing any research, I figured my rust eraser should take care of it. Nope. Instead I just marred the finish and made it look like hell. Facepalm. How can I remedy this? I've since used acetone to wipe off the knife per Jon as JKI's video, and I'm not sure it even had anything on to begin with.
> 
> I have a variety of abrasives, including micro mesh, and have some experience with finishing generally (wood mostly). Does anyone have any pointers or instructions for how I can at least even out the finish and hopefully make it look close to new? Thanks!


dude you should never need a rust remover ever and the coating comes of with acetone


----------



## HumbleHomeCook (Jul 28, 2022)

nicksoko said:


> dude you should never need a rust remover ever and the coating comes of with acetone


 He's probably on to that by now.


----------



## ian (Jul 28, 2022)

Do not start with 400 grit sandpaper if you just f’ed up the finish with a rust eraser. Try something high grit first and see if you can get it out. If it takes too long, then drop lower.


----------



## Nemo (Jul 29, 2022)

Before using any abrasives, I'd start with acetone just to make sure that you aren't just seeing scuffed lacquer.


----------



## inferno (Jul 29, 2022)

remember. if all else fails, there is always the good old angle grinder.


----------



## inferno (Jul 29, 2022)

it sets things straight... 

you and the knife is level now. you just have to show it whos the boss. at 12k rpm.


----------



## Se1ryu (Jul 29, 2022)

We all make a mistake and learn from it. Either on sharpening, maintaining the finish or polishing.

I've also tried to remove scratches on my stainless clad gyuto using nagura stone after seeing someone do it on YouTube.
Instead of losing the scratches like in the video, the knife is bruised! Lols

Then I tried using sandpaper and finally get rid of the scratches.

That was back then.


----------



## skahunter831 (Jul 29, 2022)

ian said:


> Do not start with 400 grit sandpaper if you just f’ed up the finish with a rust eraser. Try something high grit first and see if you can get it out. If it takes too long, then drop lower.


Yeah there's no way I'm starting at 400, the rust eraser "scratches" are essentially non-existent. I was already thinking I'll start pretty high then drop. If I do it at all... I might just let it ride.


Nemo said:


> Before using any abrasives, I'd start with acetone just to make sure that you aren't just seeing scuffed lacquer.



Already done haha. Unfortunately no.


----------



## drsmp (Jul 29, 2022)

what grit is your rust eraser? If you have micro mesh give it a try -with a bit of water - sand heel to tip. If you aren’t making any progress you can always drop back to sandpaper.If so I would start with a grit similar to the rust eraser then work your way up. After your etch - either coffee or dilute Ferric chloride - I like to polish with sunshine cloth.


----------



## Se1ryu (Jul 30, 2022)

skahunter831 said:


> Well I finally dove in deep and bought a Tetsujin Tanrysuen k-tip gyuto, which was delivered yesterday. Gorgeous knife. Until I ****ed it up. It looked like it had some lacquer from the shipping, so instead of actually asking anyone or doing any research, I figured my rust eraser should take care of it. Nope. Instead I just marred the finish and made it look like hell. Facepalm. How can I remedy this? I've since used acetone to wipe off the knife per Jon as JKI's video, and I'm not sure it even had anything on to begin with.
> 
> I have a variety of abrasives, including micro mesh, and have some experience with finishing generally (wood mostly). Does anyone have any pointers or instructions for how I can at least even out the finish and hopefully make it look close to new? Thanks!


You can try refinishing the knife yourself as people explained above or send it to a professional who has a lot of experience and natural stones to recreate the kasumi finish on the knife. Or send it to the knife maker to get the exact finish as before but it will cost you a small fortune.

I recommend fine rust eraser (CKK sabitoru) for small rust or to remove patina. Medium for removing large amount of rust on kitchen knives and coarse for large amount of rust for cooktop and other home appliances. 

For sandpaper always start with the higher grit then you can move to lower grit if higher grit doesn't give the results you want.


----------



## Gregmega (Jul 30, 2022)

inferno said:


> remember. if all else fails, there is always the good old angle grinder.


Took the words right outta my mouth


----------



## TB_London (Jul 30, 2022)

That level of etch will cover a lot. I’d get some ferric and wire wool, and do a dunk and scrub. 
Before starting with sandpaper I’d use it for a bit as it may just patina over with use and washing


----------



## simar (Jul 30, 2022)

I would be tempted to try uchi powder and a 12000 grit micromesh pad.


----------



## Furminati (Jul 31, 2022)

Just use it


----------



## inferno (Aug 2, 2022)

hammertime!


----------



## M1k3 (Aug 2, 2022)

Can't touch this?


----------



## Masesknives (Aug 2, 2022)

skahunter831 said:


> Well I finally dove in deep and bought a Tetsujin Tanrysuen k-tip gyuto, which was delivered yesterday. Gorgeous knife. Until I ****ed it up. It looked like it had some lacquer from the shipping, so instead of actually asking anyone or doing any research, I figured my rust eraser should take care of it. Nope. Instead I just marred the finish and made it look like hell. Facepalm. How can I remedy this? I've since used acetone to wipe off the knife per Jon as JKI's video, and I'm not sure it even had anything on to begin with.
> 
> I have a variety of abrasives, including micro mesh, and have some experience with finishing generally (wood mostly). Does anyone have any pointers or instructions for how I can at least even out the finish and hopefully make it look close to new? Thanks!


Best way to restore this is to remove the original finish with sand paper and re-do it with uchigumori!

You will need:
1: Sandpaper
2: something to hold the blade completely straight
3: a piece of wood and a hammer for removing the handle.
4: Uchigumori powder
5: mortar & pestle
6: Tsubaki oil
7: cotton pads

Firstly, remove the handle and fixate the blade so it’s completely still.
I’d start with 600grit, it should be enough! Make sure the scratches are completely aligned. For this, you’ll need to first sand off the finish, then do long and straight strokes from heel to tip (not back and forward) until the scratches are completely straight. 

Next step is to put your uchigumori powder into a mortar and grind it down until it’s super fine. Take a cotton pad and soak it with oil, apply uchigumori powder and start polishing your blade until it gets the finish you desire! 

It can take some time so be patient


----------



## skahunter831 (Aug 5, 2022)

Furminati said:


> Just use it


 Yup, this is my plan. And the banding is already fading with use, so I'm thinking the "metal flow" finish might not be worth it compared to the kasumi. Plus, I'd rather spend my time cooking, making a saya for it, and doing things other than a laborious refinish. 

Thanks for all the input, everyone, I learned a lot.


----------



## IMakeOnionsCry (Aug 5, 2022)

skahunter831 said:


> Yup, this is my plan. And the banding is already fading with use, so I'm thinking the "metal flow" finish might not be worth it compared to the kasumi. Plus, I'd rather spend my time cooking, making a saya for it, and doing things other than a laborious refinish.
> 
> Thanks for all the input, everyone, I learned a lot.


How do you like the knife though, for like cutting food and stuff?


----------



## gentiscid (Aug 5, 2022)

Did u ever repair it with all these good advices here?


----------



## inferno (Aug 5, 2022)

gentiscid said:


> Did u ever repair it with all these good advices here?


no one ever does. they just ask for advice but usually it never materialize. 

i usually do though. "when i'm on a roll", other than that i dont touch that ****.


----------



## sansho (Aug 5, 2022)

inferno said:


> no one ever does. they just ask for advice but usually it never materialize.
> 
> i usually do though. "when i'm on a roll", other than that i dont touch that ****.



well.. on a positive note, i learned things. OP did too.


----------



## inferno (Aug 5, 2022)

yeah i dont know sansho. if that was my knife. and lets say i didn't have 200 of them. but only 1 to refinish. i would get on that within 2 days or so.

and then i would post it here.

this is a 1h job at most imo. for me probably 30min to completely replicate this finish.


----------



## sansho (Aug 5, 2022)

tell you what, buddy. come over here and help me refinish and etch this banded A2 shihan petty i kind of ****ed up. we can do some blow if you want.

actually though i am kind of inspired to try now. need to find some powder though.

uchi powder! not blow


----------



## inferno (Aug 5, 2022)

i prefer meth. and then some smack to "take to edge off".

just kidding. 

yeah i wish i could come and refinish your knives but i'm in europe.


----------



## skahunter831 (Aug 7, 2022)

IMakeOnionsCry said:


> How do you like the knife though, for like cutting food and stuff?


 It's great! Not a huge improvement over my Kanehide TK Gyuto, but definitely noticeable.


----------



## hendrix (Aug 12, 2022)

I realize this doesn't help you but I just received mine but there's no coating. Just to make sure, I made a few swipes with a acetone soaked cloth but it came off absolutely clean.


----------

