# First 5 WA Handles



## ForeverLearning (Aug 24, 2019)

Thanks to a lot of help from JoboneCraftsman (another member of this forum and a great uploader on Instagram) I produced 5 WA handles and plan to make many more.









They're a combination of hidden and non hidden dowel construction. Finished to #400 (would go higher if they were going to be used) with a beeswax and mineral oil mixture.

Lots of work to be improved upon but thoroughly enjoyed the process!


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## Bensbites (Aug 24, 2019)

Nice job. I remember my first handles and yours look a lot better!


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## Matus (Aug 24, 2019)

Way better than my first handles (and frankly beyond that). There is absolutely nothing wrong with a 400 grit finish. Not glossy, but will give a little more secure grip.


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## milkbaby (Aug 24, 2019)

Very nice work!

Also agree nothing wrong with 400 grit finish, nice grippy feel, and in some cases gives a different look to the surface that is still appealing to the eye.


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## ForeverLearning (Aug 25, 2019)

Thanks for all the comments, a few improvements I am aiming for next:

#1 - start with larger blank to avoid final dimensions being too small due to drilling off centre (biggest improvement) 
#2 - Play with taper and chamfer sizes for research (going to make practice handles out of cheap wood) 
#3 - Ensure blanks are square before drilling, ensure square after glueup. Square is king! 
#4 - Start stabilizing at home


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## JoBone (Aug 25, 2019)

They look great, just need to purchase or make some knives to go with them


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## ForeverLearning (Aug 25, 2019)

I don't really know what to do with them, I will make a few knives personally but couldn't afford anything good to rehandle.

They're un-stabilized so I doubt anyone would be interested in buying.

Have any of you guys purchased un-stabilized handles?


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## JoBone (Aug 25, 2019)

A lot of woods do not require stabilizing. I may have shared this reference from Ben earlier 

http://greenbergwoods.com/wood-identification-and-info/


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## Tim Rowland (Aug 25, 2019)

Those look great for a 1st go at it. 
Much better than my 1st time trying.
With some practice I bet your work will be awesome.
I concur with everyone else saying 400 grit is great for grip and actual use.


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 2, 2019)

I wanted to share what I consider my most achieved handle yet. It is a hidden dowel construction of padauk, brass and, cherry. 

It measures: 

23.5 x 27 tapering to 20.5 x 23.5 and is 128mm (5") in length. 

It weighs 47g too. 

Finished to 400 grit and coated in a beeswax/mineral oil paste.


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 2, 2019)

Second to that is this:

It is a visible dowel construction, consisting of purple heart and tulip wood.

It measures:

25.5 x 28.6 tapering to 21.24 x 24.5,

130mm long (~5", I am metric so forgive me for not giving it in 16'ths or 1/4'ers)

It weighs:

47g

Overall I'm very happy with this too. I have a few idea for improving dowel positioning during glue up as I did have a couple handles go astray on me.


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 2, 2019)

Question is what do I do with them all now?


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## JoBone (Sep 2, 2019)

They look great


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 3, 2019)

A few close-ups of another handle: 

Visible dowel construction made of bubinga and brass. 

It measures 23 x 24 tapering to 18.5 x 21.7 and is 128mm (5") in length. 

I chamfered the front and back identical to the sides to see what it would look like.


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 3, 2019)

I also really liked a walnut and ebony/african blackwood combination I created. Unfortunately I sized it too big/square and decided to freehand a taper as opposed to marking lines like all my other handles. This meant I went wildly off path the dowel is now no longer aligned. It is a great looking handle though.


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## BryceMorsley (Sep 4, 2019)

How do these feel in the hand? They look quite square; photos can be deceiving though.


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## Bensbites (Sep 4, 2019)

ForeverLearning said:


> I don't really know what to do with them, I will make a few knives personally but couldn't afford anything good to rehandle.
> 
> They're un-stabilized so I doubt anyone would be interested in buying.
> 
> Have any of you guys purchased un-stabilized handles?


Plenty of people value unstabilized woods for their lightweight. They will not throw off the balance of a small lightweight knife. You can always seal them with 100% tung oil.


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 4, 2019)

BryceMorsley said:


> How do these feel in the hand? They look quite square; photos can be deceiving though.



A few are too square and I wouldn't give them away. The walnut one is definitely too square but the others I have posted individually all fit nice in the hand


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## Danzo (Sep 11, 2019)

Since that walnut one is fairly square you probably have a chance to realign it by removing the excess. I make only a few marks on my handles, and do the majority by eye. The more you do it the easier it gets.


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## NO ChoP! (Sep 24, 2019)

It takes a bit of measuring, and a bit of guessing, but I etch the final square I want to achieve on the front and back of the handle, and I constantly check to make sure I am removing material evenly. I insert the handle into the knife, and etch the center on top and bottom of handle, as well as the center line I would like the profile to follow. This will help you gauge the end square. I have also found anytime I try to be thrifty and stretch the life of my disc paper, I regret it. I am doomed to always learn the hard way... 

Your handles look great! I still am too impatient to work with metal spacers.


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 25, 2019)

NO ChoP! said:


> It takes a bit of measuring, and a bit of guessing, but I etch the final square I want to achieve on the front and back of the handle, and I constantly check to make sure I am removing material evenly. I insert the handle into the knife, and etch the center on top and bottom of handle, as well as the center line I would like the profile to follow. This will help you gauge the end square. I have also found anytime I try to be thrifty and stretch the life of my disc paper, I regret it. I am doomed to always learn the hard way...
> 
> Your handles look great! I still am too impatient to work with metal spacers.



Yeah I learnt the hard way with them. Loosened 3 handles before I stopped over-heating them. 

Just made a batch of 5 and worked on them bit by bit so the brass had time to cool down.


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## Chefgibson (Sep 25, 2019)

Some nice combos there. Impressive first batch


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## Bensbites (Sep 25, 2019)

ForeverLearning said:


> Yeah I learnt the hard way with them. Loosened 3 handles before I stopped over-heating them.
> 
> Just made a batch of 5 and worked on them bit by bit so the brass had time to cool down.



I have found red label abrasive to sell quality belts. They claim SiCarbite is slower to build up heat. unless someone I trust comes along with something different, I have no plans to switch from red label.


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## ForeverLearning (Sep 25, 2019)

Bensbites said:


> I have found red label abrasive to sell quality belts. They claim SiCarbite is slower to build up heat. unless someone I trust comes along with something different, I have no plans to switch from red label.


I'll keep that in mind. I've only used aluminium oxide belts. Just got to let things cool, if you wouldn't hold it against your hand then put it down till room temp


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## NO ChoP! (Sep 25, 2019)

I find silocone oxide to clog super duper quick with wood. I use mostly aluminum on the belts with wood, and have recently switched to zirconia on the disc sander, as it has about double the life, and switching discs is a pita.


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## ForeverLearning (Oct 8, 2019)

Put some work in to rendering images, I think its important that any potential customer should know what they'll be receiving.

What d'you think? I am also including tech drawings of all handles to avoid any confusion.


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## Bensbites (Oct 8, 2019)

NO ChoP! said:


> I find silocone oxide to clog super duper quick with wood. I use mostly aluminum on the belts with wood, and have recently switched to zirconia on the disc sander, as it has about double the life, and switching discs is a pita.


I have a sanding cleaning stick next to my belt sanders. It works great to extend the life of my belts.


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## ForeverLearning (Dec 11, 2019)

Just finished my first customer order - 18 handles (2 sets of 9) so a step up from my past works. 

Walnut - Perspex - African Blackwood

Made the leap and got a 12" disk sander and what an investment! Work went so much smoother!

When I couldn't work at home I used a community workshop too, the concept is such a good idea and I would encourage anyone to look out locally for such a space.


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## ForeverLearning (Dec 11, 2019)

I am also thinking of revisiting my first handles and re-shaping/touching them up. Some comments of them being too square were not wrong and some slots were poorly shaped with room for correction. I get surgery for my ankle on Monday so when i'm off work sick I could potentially get on the disk sander and touch these up


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## M1k3 (Dec 11, 2019)

Looking good and hope you have a speedy recovery!


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## Gjackson98 (Dec 11, 2019)

Awesome looking handles!


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## Dhoff (Dec 13, 2019)

ForeverLearning said:


> Question is what do I do with them all now? View attachment 60331


I quite like the reddish one fourth from the left. As to what to do with them, either attempt to sell or give away if you feel like it. Would be a shame for them not to be used in my opinion.


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## ForeverLearning (Dec 17, 2019)

First day after the surgery. Got to making an Instagram page purely for handle/kitchen knives away from my personal account.

Www.instagtam.com/fellsidecustoms

I grew up in a small village surrounded by fells (hills) so I am really happy with the name.

Go give it a follow, I will update it with all new handles/kitchen knives. I will try and keep wips away from it and just keep it to finished products


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## ForeverLearning (Jan 13, 2020)

Hi all, I am 4 weeks in to my post surgery recovery, cast is off and I have a moon-boot on. Hasn't stopped me getting stocked up on supplies for some handles.





I have found a UK contact to stabilize some blanks for me as i've purchased some nice looking burls. I am weighing up doing it myself vs getting it done. It is £8/blank approximately and a initial setup is £330 all in. So am I going to use more than 40 stabilized handles or shall I just use the service and focus on the making of the handles themselves?

Anyways, very happy with the wood i've purchased, really like the look of fiddleback/flamed maple. Does anyone know some good colours it takes?


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## Caleb Cox (Jan 13, 2020)

Stabilizing is fun and can easily produce enough for your own needs and excess that you can sell if you choose too. However, the expense is significant (don't cheap out on vacuum chamber, pump, or resin) and there is a learning curve (inadequate research can lead to ruined blocks, as I sadly experienced).


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## ForeverLearning (Jan 15, 2020)

Caleb Cox said:


> Stabilizing is fun and can easily produce enough for your own needs and excess that you can sell if you choose too. However, the expense is significant (don't cheap out on vacuum chamber, pump, or resin) and there is a learning curve (inadequate research can lead to ruined blocks, as I sadly experienced).



So I looked on turn-tex help page about vacuum pumps and the key points I took from it were the following:


Single stage is no problem (two stage pumps can achieve a greater vacuum but it is such a fine vacuum it is near impossible to actually achieve)
Budget level CFM is no problem but it will take longer
Go for Cactus Juice (re-use then die the juice when it starts to take a colour of a wood)

All in all I looked at Bacoeng kits on Amazon (UK), I could do it DIY for a saving of 10% but to start so I think I would just go for a kit as such a small saving isn't necessarily worth the time and the fit and finish will just be superior from a supplier.

All in I estimate £330


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## Caleb Cox (Jan 15, 2020)

I initially got a vacuum chamber with polymer lid. While it was very thick, it developed spider cracks almost immediately, so I returned it and bought a unit with a glass lid that's held up great.


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## John N (Jan 22, 2020)

ahhh, just recognised who you are on Instagram! ( im @non_jic )

The first handles you posted, as you have realised look pretty crap (too blocky) the batch you made later looks nice though  Its a lot easier to make a handle when you know what blade it is going on. A couple of mm off here and there and the early ones will be a lot better.

I love my 12" disc sander so much I just bought a second one to sit next to it! I can then have fine / coarse paper set up, or table @ 90 degs, or 45 degs set up next to each other. I got a promo code for machine mart so it was £140 delivered. Disc sander is definitely the best 'bang for the buck' in knifemaking.

Did you pull the trigger on the stabalising kit yet ?!


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## ForeverLearning (Jan 29, 2020)

John N said:


> I love my 12" disc sander so much I just bought a second one to sit next to it! I can then have fine / coarse paper set up



I am going to go for a hook and loop disc, hopefully it is a cheap alternative to a second disk sander. 

I run a Axminster craft series sander, wish I'd had that machine mart voucher. 



John N said:


> Did you pull the trigger on the stabalising kit yet ?!



The trigger was pulled today! Cactus juice from house of resin and the bacoeng 12l from Amazon.

Facebook marketplace is being raided for a oven following your tips


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## Caleb Cox (Jan 29, 2020)

I know there is some European distribution, you might want to look into Eastwood for a disc sander. They specialize in auto body tools. This 12 inch is a beast. Compact, but weighs about 60 pounds, runs smooth and quietly. Price point was 208 USD shipped, so for substantially less cost than a Delta unit it has over twice the power, at 1.25hp.


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## John N (Jan 29, 2020)

@ForeverLearning - I have hook and loop on sander no.1, it was a cheap from ebay, and im not sure I like it, its a bit 'spongey' so it does not sand flat unless you alter pressure.

I have since seen that you can get 'short' hook velcro, which might be better. I will try that next. It is still a fiddle to change the sanding disc, even with velcro backing, due to the minimal gap between platen and disk.

I did read a great tip the other night though, which is to cut a piece of cerial packet card a bit more than 1/2 a circle. Peel the top half of the paper off, slide the card under, then rotate the disk 180 deg, and peel the other half off. Slide out. genius!! 

edit, if you sign up to machine mart, they send you a 'vat free shopping' voucher every now and again (effectively 20% off)


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## M1k3 (Feb 7, 2020)

@ForeverLearning I have a question for you, what size blanks do you start with? Thanks.


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## ForeverLearning (Feb 12, 2020)

M1k3 said:


> @ForeverLearning I have a question for you, what size blanks do you start with? Thanks.



Up to now I begin with ~35mm sq. That gives me about 1/2 diameter of my drill bit off centre to make a mistake. 

Having stabilized wood for the first time (I'll post an update shortly) I dried the wood in the oven and thanks to @John N who explained "blanks warp to buggery" so I have gone for ~40mm square and it seems ok.

If you are bang on centering your drilling I'd imagine you could go narrower but I don't want to take the risk.


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## ForeverLearning (Mar 27, 2020)

Stabilized a few batches now:

Maple Burr
Spalted Beech (90g stabilized to 180g)
Elm Burr (90g stabilized to 180g)
Thuya Burr
Red Mallee Burr
Really enjoying it, unfortunately I did log all weight changes but based on others I'm relatively happy with it all. 

Blanks only finished to 60g as if I pass any on they're going to get chopped to pieces anyways.


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