# bandsaw blades



## tgraypots (Jun 6, 2011)

Local sawmill has given me access to about 20 ft of band saw steel. each piece is about 8 in wide, and has been cut to about 5 f in length. Needless to say, they have a little curve to them. I think they're carbon since the steel turns gray with a little vinegar splasked on, but have no idea what kind. Nevertheless, I hope to make a few knives from them, but need to straighten out the individual piece after roughing out the shape. With stuff I have on hand I can easily build a small propane fired oven, complete with digital pyrometer, if necessary, but have no idea where to begin. Any ideas would be highly appreciated.
Thanks-Tom


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## SpikeC (Jun 6, 2011)

I look forward to what develops with this!


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## sudsy9977 (Jun 6, 2011)

tom....i know alot of people do it but i wouldn't use anything except quality steel for a knife......while many people will tell you they r "x" steel .....they might be....they aldso might not.....with all the work it takes to grind something out and finish it....just get some cheap carbon steel to practice on.....ryan


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## Bill T (Jun 6, 2011)

Ryan's got it right. Go with a known steel. Call Aldo the NJ Steel Baron, he'll hook you up with whatever you need.


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## DevinT (Jun 6, 2011)

Big bands are made from 15n20. Fine for knives. I like to mix it with other high carbon steels for making damascus.

It has .75 carbon with 2% nickel. Harden from about 1500f. Temper at 350-375f.

Hoss


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## Marko Tsourkan (Jun 6, 2011)

tgraypots said:


> Local sawmill has given me access to about 20 ft of band saw steel. each piece is about 8 in wide, and has been cut to about 5 f in length. Needless to say, they have a little curve to them. I think they're carbon since the steel turns gray with a little vinegar splasked on, but have no idea what kind. Nevertheless, I hope to make a few knives from them, but need to straighten out the individual piece after roughing out the shape. With stuff I have on hand I can easily build a small propane fired oven, complete with digital pyrometer, if necessary, but have no idea where to begin. Any ideas would be highly appreciated.
> Thanks-Tom


 
Man you just landed a ton of steel. Send over some if you have no use for it. 

M


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## SpikeC (Jun 6, 2011)

Ya, I wouldn't mind some of that myself!


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## Eamon Burke (Jun 6, 2011)

How thick is it?


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## sudsy9977 (Jun 6, 2011)

so everybody wants unknown steel that may or may not make a usable knife?....i got some scrap in my backyard i'll sell ya if u want.....ryan


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## SpikeC (Jun 6, 2011)

Hay, some of us need a little practice!


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## l r harner (Jun 6, 2011)

sudsy9977 said:


> so everybody wants unknown steel that may or may not make a usable knife?....i got some scrap in my backyard i'll sell ya if u want.....ryan


 
i am for sure one of those pll that will tell you to buy new steel but on the other hand if you can get 40 or more lbs of it and have it tested jsut to make sure its what you think then i see no problem in using the "used" steel 

how even if you cnat get a lot of it or cant have it tested then i woudl not bother 

as far as for practice even ugly knives with good HT are good knives so why not make a knife looking thing that at leasty you know will take an edge post HT


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## Eamon Burke (Jun 7, 2011)

If it's thin, I was going to suggest that he use it for prototypes. That's what I do, it saves time on grinding, and a paper thin edge, while flexible, will still cut, and it won't take a billion hours to cut out. A design may look good on paper, but you really wanna hold it in your hand, and a thin sheet of easy to machine steel and a block of poplar from the hardware store makes prototypes a one day job.


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## tgraypots (Jun 7, 2011)

3/32
I'm taking a class in stock reduction in late August, but I got the bug and can't wait until then to start farting around with the steel. I' ve roughed out a nakiri shape with my angle grinder, almost burned up my dremel tool before switching to grinder, and would like to straighten it prior to more grinding. So, do I heat it up to red heat, 1200 degrees, in hopes it will 'relax? Grind, shape, then harden at 1500 and temper at 350? Thanks! Tom


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## SpikeC (Jun 7, 2011)

If you heat to around 1850 you should be able to tap it flat.


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## DevinT (Jun 7, 2011)

Heat it to a dull red and straighten. 1850f is not necessary.

Hoss


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## SpikeC (Jun 7, 2011)

DevinT said:


> Heat it to a dull red and straighten. 1850f is not necessary.
> 
> Hoss



:notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:


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## DevinT (Jun 7, 2011)

Sorry Spike 

Didn't mean to sound so arrogant.

Hoss


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## Potato42 (Jun 7, 2011)

Lol it's not arrogance. It's sorta like in Monty Python quest for the Holy Grail when god appears in the sky and gives Arthur and his knights the quest to find the Grail - you just do what the man says!


Edit; video link for those that haven't seen it or are rusty 
[video=youtube;VZ42IMu7HIQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZ42IMu7HIQ[/video]


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## SpikeC (Jun 8, 2011)

I did not see arrogance, I was just paying homage!


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