# Advice/help on learning how to make Wa-handles



## alterwisser (Feb 3, 2016)

Hi,

a colleague of mine has been making western style knives (as a hobby) for 30 years now. He recently invited me to make a knife with him (small parer) and I kind of got him interested in making a Japanese style knife.

I would like to help him a little with finding resources about how to make a wa handle. I assume it's easier than a western handle, but what do I know?

Any links/threads/videos you guys can point out for me to take a look at? I think he wants to invite me to make the knife with him ... so might as well do that homework for him (or rather:us!)

Thanks
Steffen


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## chefcomesback (Feb 3, 2016)

alterwisser said:


> Hi,
> 
> a colleague of mine has been making western style knives (as a hobby) for 30 years now. He recently invited me to make a knife with him (small parer) and I kind of got him interested in making a Japanese style knife.
> 
> ...



http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php?t=19259


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## Bill13 (Feb 3, 2016)

Here is another of Mikey's WIP: http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/20971-WIP


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## andur (Mar 16, 2016)

Is there anyone making Japanese handles the traditional way without glue? Just a good fit between the horn and wood - those are my favorite.


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## Matus (Mar 19, 2016)

I am just looking for the same information - thanks for the links


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## pkjames (Mar 19, 2016)

andur said:


> Is there anyone making Japanese handles the traditional way without glue? Just a good fit between the horn and wood - those are my favorite.



iirc they do use some sort of glue between the horn and the wood, most likely pva.


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## jessf (Mar 21, 2016)

I wonder if they always used some form of adhesive. I've found that often the furrel on a hand tool is meant to keep the end from splitting during the insertion of the tang and after as a way of reinforcing that area to keep from splitting during use. I've seen this more on chisels where in the absence of a socket you have a ferrule, maybe on the striking end a metal ring to keep that side from mushrooming out. 

So, perhaps you friction fit the ferrule, cut the tang slot and burn in the blade. Then we you go to assemble you place the ferrule lose around the tang, insert the blade into the handle while taping the ferrule into place adding some compression. Once the ferrule end sees some moisture or oil the wood will swell and the horn will not and the blade will be gripped tighter. Glue may not be necessary at that point.

this is all speculation but it would work if you could get the fit tight enough.


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