# Kippington Deburring Video



## Geller8 (Nov 1, 2019)

Good morning team!

I am trying to find the thread where Kippington posted a video showing a quick way he deburs that is different than the regular ways people deburr. I found it in google once but I can't seem to find it again. 

Also, what do you guys think about the pros and cons of this deburring method. He does it on an knife where the edge looks extremely thin and the steal look easy to sharpen. Would this method not be appropriate for a knife that has a tougher and thicker edge? Also once deburred with this method what type of finishing passes might be ideal. I usually deburr and finish with slightly higher angle edge leading passes on sintered ceramic. I like to do all my sharpening on stones so edge trailing passes are liable to form a new micro-burr. Is there any amount of micro-burr that is advantageous where the loss of edge retention is outweighed by the increased keenness.

Thank you guys for the video and thank you for any insight raised by a discussion of the video.


----------



## Carl Kotte (Nov 1, 2019)

Here’s @kippington’s video - as requested:
Stropping on medium grit stones

The knife is pretty much at a right angle to the stone. Lowest amount of pressure possible.

Alright, made a video for clarity.

- Start: Knife is blunt, showing some tests to prove it
- 17 seconds: Sharpening starts, medium stone
- 24 seconds: Fine stone
- 35 seconds: Deburr, almost right angle knife-to-stone, diagonal run as to not cut into stone. Extremely low pressure. This pushes burr to the left side of knife
- 39 seconds: Pushing burr over again, even further. Low pressure again
- 42 seconds: Combination of cutting burr off completely + microbevel + polish edge.
- End: Repeat of edge tests

Hope it makes sense.
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/index.php?posts/641973/


----------



## Geller8 (Nov 1, 2019)

Thank you!


----------



## ian (Nov 1, 2019)

Geller8 said:


> Good morning team!
> 
> I am trying to find the thread where Kippington posted a video showing a quick way he deburs that is different than the regular ways people deburr. I found it in google once but I can't seem to find it again.
> 
> ...



I've used this method on crappy stainless, too, and it works fine. Might take a bit longer to completely remove the burr, but the principle is sound. I finish with only edge leading strokes. I don't think micro-burr is ever a good thing, since it's just going to tear off or flop over when you hit the board or any hard product, leaving a compromised edge.


----------



## Kippington (Nov 12, 2019)

Oh hey, I just saw my name in a thread title!

I found this deburring method somewhere online years ago. At the time I mostly ignored it and chose to use one of the more conventional methods we tend to talk about on this forum.
After gaining a better understanding of how steel behaves through making knives, I came back to using it as it's actually a scaled down version of a useful knife-making technique.
Other deburring methods work too - I happen to like this one for it's speed, consistency, ease of use (using the stone you last used), and predictability (it works the same regardless of how big the burr is).

It's difficult to explain in words, maybe I'll post another video using a scrap piece of steel to better explain what's going on.
There was a surprising amount of interest in it. I might have gone on to explain it further on the other thread, but that one went south real quick.


----------



## Geigs (Nov 12, 2019)

Looks so easy when Kipp does it...


----------



## KingShapton (Nov 12, 2019)

Kippington said:


> It's difficult to explain in words, maybe I'll post another video, using a scrap piece of steel to better explain what's going on


I would be very interested in another video with explanations. It would be great if you could take the time for it.


----------



## labor of love (Nov 12, 2019)

I stumbled upon an old Kippington vid from 7 years ago: how to sharpen w a mousepad. 91k views! Not bad.


----------



## Kippington (Nov 12, 2019)

That was for a different knife forum, many moons ago...


----------



## ian (Nov 12, 2019)

Is she singing about the previous year, when she turned 18?


----------



## Kippington (Nov 13, 2019)

Alright, here it is!
I want to be clear - This is a video to explain a technique only. It was done on a 400 grit diamond plate - no higher grits - plus the knife used was a heat-treated bit of scrap steel.
Let me know if you have any questions.


----------



## Geigs (Nov 13, 2019)

Looks so easy when Kipp does it...also how much for the heat treated piece of scrap?


----------



## ian (Nov 13, 2019)

I think in this instance it looks easy because it *is* easy. I do this often now, after reading about it in the earlier thread. The trick is to think to do it—it’s not hard to execute.


----------



## KingShapton (Nov 13, 2019)

No more questions, thank you very much.


----------



## Kippington (Nov 13, 2019)

Glad to help.


----------



## Nemo (Dec 1, 2019)

I must confess that this technique seemed a bit counterintuitive to me.

On a recent visit to Melbourne, Kip was kind enough to walk me through it.

I am astounded at how sharp this technique can make a knife. Even with just a coarse stone and a plain cardboard strop.


----------



## Nemo (Dec 1, 2019)

As a learning exercise, I'm going to summarise the technique as I see it. Kip, please correct me where I am wrong:


1) Go through your normal sharpening progression but don't try to reduce the burr until finished on your finest stone.

I would normally have sharpened last on the left side of the knife, so the burr is on the right.


2) Raise the spine until the blade face is almost vertial, with the spine slightly towards the burr (right) side. Fully vertical is apparently ideal but feels too weird, especially on coarse stones. I found about 70-80 degrees felt OK on a coarse stone.

Use an edge trailing stroke at this almost vertical angle to fully push the burr (almost 90 degrees) to the left side of the knife. The firmness of this stroke depends on the size of the burr. Confirm that the burr is fully on the left. Repeat if the burr is not fully flipped along the whole length of the edge (increase pressure if necessary).


3) Tilt the spine around 45 degrees towards the side that the burr is now on (left Side in my example). Use an edge leading stroke to remove the burr. You are essentially removing the burr by creating a microbevel on the same side as the burr. Confirm that the burr is all gone (repeat if necessary).

It helps to have a flat stone for this bit.


4) You can now re-apex your edge by sharpening at just above the original sharpening angle.

I think that this might just be removing the microbevel. Obviously, don't raise a big burr.


5) A few strops on cardboard makes the edge very sharp.


----------



## labor of love (Dec 1, 2019)

So you do full progression(no stropping) then return to coarse stone to remove burr and form microbevel? Then maybe minor strokes on said microbevel?


----------



## ian (Dec 1, 2019)

Hmm, that's not how I was interpreting it. I was using the nearly vertical motion just to flip & kill the burr on coarse and medium stones. (Ie, doing that after finishing on a given stone.) On high grits, I'm not really raising a burr.


----------



## kayman67 (Dec 1, 2019)

You are still using whatever stone you finished on.


----------



## Nemo (Dec 1, 2019)

labor of love said:


> So you do full progression(no stropping) then return to coarse stone to remove burr and form microbevel? Then maybe minor strokes on said microbevel?



No, deburring is done only on the finest stone, as is any re-apexing after deburring.

Kip was showing me on a coarse stone only for demonstration purposes.


----------



## Carl Kotte (Dec 2, 2019)

ian said:


> Hmm, that's not how I was interpreting it. I was using the nearly vertical motion just to flip & kill the burr on coarse and medium stones. (Ie, doing that after finishing on a given stone.) On high grits, I'm not really raising a burr.



I did it on coarse/medium too, as I thought that that was the take home message from Kip’s video. Maybe doesn’t matter since I don’t raise burrs after leaving the coarse/medium grits.


----------



## kayman67 (Dec 2, 2019)

The idea behind this technique might be to change the entire sharpening process to make it work 100% as intended.
I've tried this even on SG 16k and it worked well. What it actually does is that, as you are doing the entire progression, you just don't focus at all on deburr until the end. And this takes you very fast or faster there. Seems a bit odd, I know, but I feel like this is where this method really makes a difference.
In some ways, the finish and even a part of the the process, is similar to what some people were doing with razors for ages.


----------



## Kippington (Dec 2, 2019)

The finer the grit you use, the smaller the burr, meaning each stone only needs itself to get rid the burr it left behind.
In other words, you'll generally only need to use the last stone you used. There are caveats to this, but I won't go into detail.

I was only using coarse stones in the video because I wanted the camera to pick up large burrs.


----------



## ian (Dec 2, 2019)

Hmm. For some reason I thought it was important to deburr as much as possible with each stone. Maybe in practice it doesn't matter as much as I thought?


----------



## Carl Kotte (Dec 2, 2019)

ian said:


> Hmm. For some reason I thought it was important to deburr as much as possible with each stone. Maybe in practice it doesn't matter as much as I thought?



Same here. The gospel of Nowlan says so (I think).


----------



## Nemo (Dec 2, 2019)

Certainly the other techniques that I have used require a much greater focus on controlling and reducing the burr.


----------



## Kippington (Dec 2, 2019)

_*ian* - For some reason I thought it was important to deburr as much as possible with each stone. Maybe in practice it doesn't matter as much as I thought?_
_*Carl Kotte* - Same here._
It's semi-answered here:


Carl Kotte said:


> Maybe doesn’t matter since I don’t raise burrs after leaving the coarse/medium grits.


The finer grits get to work on the larger burr left over from the previous grits, subsequently decreasing it in size.

---------------------

Here's another way of looking at it:

By definition, a burr along the cutting edge is a loose bit of steel that wont stay rigid under relatively light pressure. The sideways de-burring method uses this property of the burr against itself by pushing the flexible zone of the knife edge to the side. Anything that doesn't get pushed, it isn't really part of the burr. If you have a thicker burr you might need more pressure on the push/drag, but it will still do the job no matter what grit you use. Doing it against a hard abrasive surface is key, as softer materials might yield to the burr.
The first pass (near 90°) works to push/drag the burr to one side, and once that is under control the second pass (around 45°) acts to shear the burr off between the stable part of the knife edge and the cutting action of the stone surface.


----------



## captaincaed (Dec 4, 2019)

I know what I'm doing when I get home. 

@Kippington you seem to be a fan of diamond and Shapton. Any thoughts compared to synthetic waterstones?


----------



## Marek07 (Feb 2, 2020)

captaincaed said:


> @Kippington you seem to be a fan of diamond and Shapton. Any thoughts compared to synthetic waterstones?


Just saw this post. I wouldn't call @Kippington a fan of diamond plates. It was a cheap, small plate I had hanging around that I donated to his workshop. Has its uses but very basic piece of kit.


----------



## Rotem Shoshani (Apr 17, 2020)

I've just tried it..

I think I may have been doing something wrong because the edge just wasn't as sharp as it normally would be coming from the Kitayama.

I really don't have it when it comes to edge leading strokes, if that makes sense.

I'm guessing my last few strokes after killing the burr aren't good enough...?

Kipp just makes it look soooo easy.


----------



## Marek07 (Apr 17, 2020)

Took me a while to "_get it_". That was despite a personal demonstration. I now get it and use it. Works really well at removing a burr and doesn't kill the edge, which was my original fear using an angle so close to perpendicular. I still make use of the _slicing the water_ technique (very lightly) and using a scourer or cork as I finish on a stone. Probably overkill, I know.


----------



## Kippington (Apr 18, 2020)

captaincaed said:


> @Kippington you seem to be a fan of diamond and Shapton. Any thoughts compared to synthetic waterstones?


I simply use stuff that won't dish quickly. Enough of my time is spent sharpening, I want to spend as little time flattening stones as possible.


----------



## captaincaed (Apr 18, 2020)

Kippington said:


> I simply use stuff that won't dish quickly. Enough of my time is spent sharpening, I want to spend as little time flattening stones as possible.


That makes a ton of sense


----------



## labor of love (Apr 18, 2020)

captaincaed said:


> That makes a ton of sense


Meh


----------



## soigne_west (Apr 18, 2020)

Kippington said:


> I simply use stuff that won't dish quickly. Enough of my time is spent sharpening, I want to spend as little time flattening stones as possible.



Jules, do you still sharpen with sandpaper?


----------



## Kippington (Apr 18, 2020)

soigne_west said:


> Jules, do you still sharpen with sandpaper?


Not for sharpening kitchen knives that I sell. I do like sandpaper for finishing though, so I always have heaps on hand and sometimes use it to touch up knives in the workshop. That video I posted years ago was for noobies with no stones. A one dollar sheet of sandpaper is a good way to get into sharpening as a beginner.







labor of love said:


> No it doesn’t.


How doesn't it make sense?


----------



## tri.ngm (Jan 10, 2021)

Hi, 
I want to resurrect this thread because I just tried the method out and got blown away by it. I got really good result using just my King 1000. 
So my question is, what's the side effect or downside of this method? One side effect that I can think of is creating a micro-bevel but is there any situation that you do not want a micro-bevel?


----------



## Benuser (Jan 10, 2021)

tri.ngm said:


> Hi,
> I want to resurrect this thread because I just tried the method out and got blown away by it. I got really good result using just my King 1000.
> So my question is, what's the side effect or downside of this method? One side effect that I can think of is creating a micro-bevel but is there any situation that you do not want a micro-bevel?


Sure! I find further maintenance with a microbevel a bit problematic. Not that easy to feel the difference between a microbevel and a burr.


----------



## ian (Jan 10, 2021)

I always have a bit of a microbevel when I sharpen. I think you can perform this method in a way where the microbevel ends up very micro, though. 

Another downside may be that you may lose a bit more steel doing it this way, since it's rather aggressive, but it's probably negligible.

I don't find this method necessary unless I'm sharpening crap stainless steel with really tenacious burrs, though, in which case it can be useful.


----------



## tri.ngm (Jan 10, 2021)

Benuser said:


> Sure! I find further maintenance with a microbevel a bit problematic. Not that easy to feel the difference between a microbevel and a burr.


How do you maintain a microbevel? What makes it a hassle? 



ian said:


> Another downside may be that you may lose a bit more steel doing it this way, since it's rather aggressive, but it's probably negligible.


Do you mean it's aggressive during the step that you raise the knife to an almost vertical angle?


----------



## Benuser (Jan 11, 2021)

tri.ngm said:


> How do you maintain a microbevel? What makes it a hassle?


You want to hit the microbevel fairly exactly. Otherwise you get an edge rounded towards the microbevel, which compromises the fine geometry that assures performance.
The whole idea of a microbevel is having a thin geometry the steel wouldn't support otherwise.


----------



## SeattleB (Jan 11, 2021)

Question: is it necessary to use a stone to remove the burr? I remember reading in the Science of Sharp that he likes using clean cloth (linen or denim) with a similar high-angle technique. The reason I ask is that a stone appears to be great at cutting off the burr, but it also dulls that broken edge. Would denim remove the burr and dull the broken edge less? That way there is less work to do on the next stone in the progression?


----------



## captaincaed (Jan 11, 2021)

I think the SOS guys are more razor focused. They may be working with smaller, weaker burrs. I think it makes a lot of sense for an edge that's been refined to a pretty high grit. Still undecided on how I like stropping after medium grits. 

For me, some refining strokes on the fine stone help tune the edge back up after cutting thr burr off. Also it's a more quick and dirty maneuver in my playbook. Not really for when I'm fussing over a really nice edge.


----------



## kayman67 (Jan 11, 2021)

SeattleB said:


> Question: is it necessary to use a stone to remove the burr? I remember reading in the Science of Sharp that he likes using clean cloth (linen or denim) with a similar high-angle technique. The reason I ask is that a stone appears to be great at cutting off the burr, but it also dulls that broken edge. Would denim remove the burr and dull the broken edge less? That way there is less work to do on the next stone in the progression?



This is an old practice to use the rough side up to ~1-3k and the smooth side above, to clean the apex. Sometimes abrasives are loaded onto the strop, but that's more of a fine tuning. 
Try it and see how it goes. This improved sharpening a lot for some people. If your stone technique is solid, you might not notice much.


----------



## tri.ngm (Jan 12, 2021)

Benuser said:


> hit the microbevel fairly exactly


Sorry for being thick but how do you do it? Is it choosing the correct angle?


----------



## Ruso (Jan 12, 2021)

I tried Kipp’s technique multiple times but I always get duller edge then before. Abrading and reducing the burr and few final edge trailing strokes works better for me.
I will still keep trying to “master” Kipp’s technique. The more one know, the merrier.


----------



## Kippington (Jan 12, 2021)

Ruso said:


> I tried Kipp’s technique multiple times but I always get duller edge then before. Abrading and reducing the burr and few final edge trailing strokes works better for me.
> I will still keep trying to “master” Kipp’s technique. The more one know, the merrier.


You could try easing up on the pressure. Just a passing thought, it's too difficult to give proper advice without seeing your technique first hand.


----------



## demirtasem (Jan 13, 2021)

I personally think Kippington's this video explains the process better. I deburr on the plate than edge leading on whetstone then jump to paper/carboard/leather strop.


----------



## Jason183 (Sep 14, 2021)

I just tried Kippington’s method recently, it works great, cuts smoother than before, the cutting feel as good as the OOTB edge, very clean.


----------



## r0bz (Dec 8, 2022)

Kippington said:


> Alright, here it is!
> I want to be clear - This is a video to explain a technique only. It was done on a 400 grit diamond plate - no higher grits - plus the knife used was a heat-treated bit of scrap steel.
> Let me know if you have any questions.



@Kippington
your method looks very nice i will give it a try next time i am sharpening
i have 3 questions if you don't mind
1. when you are doing the high angle pass stropping close to 90 degree are you applying alot of pressure ?
2. when you are doing the edge leading after the high-angle pass are you applying a lot of pressure ? and what is the angle you are trying to hit ? the same sharpening angle or a little bit higher ?
3. after you deburr using your method like you said it produces a burrless edge but less sharp, what do you do after the deburring in order to get the knife into the desired sharpness ?
4. does your method create a microbevel ?


----------



## sansho (Dec 8, 2022)

a question of my own.. what steel is that? i've never seen such a huge, easily visible wire edge. i wonder why. is it the steel, or is how i sharpen?


----------



## Kippington (Dec 8, 2022)

sansho said:


> a question of my own.. what steel is that? i've never seen such a huge, easily visible wire edge. i wonder why. is it the steel, or is how i sharpen?


Before recording, I made the burr as big as possible to make it easier for the camera to pick up.
If you wanna make your own phat burr, sharpen at a low angle with low grit and high pressure.



r0bz said:


> i have 3 questions if you don't mind


That's four questions! 

_*1. when you are doing the high angle pass stropping close to 90 degree are you applying alot of pressure ?*_​​It depends on the thickness of the burr, (which in turn depends on how you sharpened the knife - see my reply to sansho above)
Generally speaking, you need light pressure, but bigger burrs need more.

_*2. when you are doing the edge leading after the high-angle pass are you applying a lot of pressure ? and what is the angle you are trying to hit ? the same sharpening angle or a little bit higher ?*_​​It should be higher than the sharpening angle. Same pressure as the 90 degree angle pass.

_*3. after you deburr using your method like you said it produces a burrless edge but less sharp, what do you do after the deburring in order to get the knife into the desired sharpness ?*_​​Resharpen lightly at your normal angles, edge leading strokes. It only takes a couple more passes, depending on pressure and grit.

_*4. does your method create a microbevel ?*_​​Kinda... yes. But I consider it more of a convex grind, which happens when you sharpen by hand anyway.


Hope this helps!


----------



## r0bz (Dec 8, 2022)

Kippington said:


> Before recording, I made the burr as big as possible to make it easier for the camera to pick up.
> If you wanna make your own phat burr, sharpen at a low angle with low grit and high pressure.
> 
> 
> ...


thank you for the information 
I am pretty unexperienced with a micro bevel I only know about it in theory

I do want to know if will it be a lot harder to feel for the angle next time sharpening because it creates a micro bevel/ convex grind.

also, I use a steel honing rod to maintain the low HRC knives will the micro-bevel make it harder to do so?


----------



## Kippington (Dec 8, 2022)

> I do want to know if will it be a lot harder to feel for the angle next time sharpening because it creates a micro bevel/ convex grind.


It won't be more difficult. The microbevel should be so small that it wont make a difference to your normal sharpening.



> also, I use a steel honing rod to maintain the low HRC knives will the micro-bevel make it harder to do so?


Think of it like this:

You are used to sharpening at a certain angle _without_ a microbevel - Let's say you normally sharpen to 15 degrees per side.
Change your sharpening angle to 13 degrees per side, and add a microbevel at 15 degrees per side.

Now you have a blade that...

is just as sharp
will go through food better
you can strop and use a steel exactly as you normally would
Easy!


----------



## OyakoDont (Dec 9, 2022)

I lurked on this thread, ran down to try out this method and it seems like it works great. Burr removal feels consistent throughout the length of the blade, there is a bite to it on my fingernail, it cuts through food fine, but for some reason when I put my skin right on the edge it doesn't split me open. Am I experiencing geometry cutting food and not sharpening correctly or am I now on the right path to sharpening better? If it matters I just took a few knives that needed some touching up and put them on a hard aoto.


----------



## Kippington (Dec 9, 2022)

OyakoDont said:


> I lurked on this thread, ran down to try out this method and it seems like it works great. Burr removal feels consistent throughout the length of the blade, there is a bite to it on my fingernail, it cuts through food fine, but for some reason when I put my skin right on the edge it doesn't split me open. Am I experiencing geometry cutting food and not sharpening correctly or am I now on the right path to sharpening better? If it matters I just took a few knives that needed some touching up and put them on a hard aoto.


If the knife cuts through food fine , you might be used to feeling a raggedy edge against your skin. Sometimes a super sharp knife - done on a high grit - won't grip into your skin the same way.
For example, the edges I sharpen to do a hanging hair test will feel pretty dull, if I push it into my skin.

If you try the same after finishing on a coarser stone - say 500 to 800 grit - you will re-gain the feeling of an edge with bite. There's also the idea of sharpening on a low grit (500), deburring. then stropping on a polishing grit (4,000) to keep some teeth along the edge.

As you might have already guessed, there's also a chance you're not hitting the apex on the edge-leading strokes after the deburr... but if your knife is sharp during use, that wouldn't be the case. Try slicing through tomatoes and you'll get your answer.


----------



## OyakoDont (Dec 9, 2022)

Thanks, I wouldn’t be surprised if I was the root cause, but I can always try to be an optimist. Looks like tomatoes are back on the menu.


----------



## jwthaparc (Dec 10, 2022)

Kippington said:


> Oh hey, I just saw my name in a thread title!
> 
> I found this deburring method somewhere online years ago. At the time I mostly ignored it and chose to use one of the more conventional methods we tend to talk about on this forum.
> After gaining a better understanding of how steel behaves through making knives, I came back to using it as it's actually a scaled down version of a useful knife-making technique.
> ...


What is the useful knife making technique?


----------



## jwthaparc (Dec 10, 2022)

tri.ngm said:


> Hi,
> I want to resurrect this thread because I just tried the method out and got blown away by it. I got really good result using just my King 1000.
> So my question is, what's the side effect or downside of this method? One side effect that I can think of is creating a micro-bevel but is there any situation that you do not want a micro-bevel?


Testicular enlargement is probably the most common side effect of this method.


----------



## r0bz (Dec 10, 2022)

OyakoDont said:


> Thanks, I wouldn’t be surprised if I was the root cause, but I can always try to be an optimist. Looks like tomatoes are back on the menu.


please report back when you test the tomato its interesting
also at what grits did you sharpen ?


----------



## OyakoDont (Dec 12, 2022)

So I made a tomato bisque for the first time and it came out nicely. There wasn’t a whole lot of tomato cutting required, so I changed it up to move it closer to dicing tomatoes to roast them. I sharpened three knives with the Kippington finishing method: Takeshi Saji Aogami 2 gyuto, Tadafusa Aogami 2(I think) nakiri, and HSC magnacut santoku. All three were recently sharpened so I just went straight into using an aoto for a few strokes (large aoto from this link SOLD - 2×Hard Aono Aoto (Final Drops)). Overall, I would say I’m pleased would with the consistency of the edge throughout the length of the blade. All were able to cut into the skin of ripe tomatoes nicely and did not experience any issues going through the flesh. It’s not a magical fix for any prior issues I had, but it sure helped finish the blade off. Example of this is with the Saji. I feel the blade is a bit thick behind the edge, but I’m too scared to attempt to thin it an destroy the pattern. So while it still can cut, it’s not the nice feeling I want to experience.


----------



## Kippington (Dec 13, 2022)

OyakoDont said:


> So I made a tomato bisque for the first time and it came out nicely. There wasn’t a whole lot of tomato cutting required, so I changed it up to move it closer to dicing tomatoes to roast them. I sharpened three knives with the Kippington finishing method: Takeshi Saji Aogami 2 gyuto, Tadafusa Aogami 2(I think) nakiri, and HSC magnacut santoku. All three were recently sharpened so I just went straight into using an aoto for a few strokes (large aoto from this link SOLD - 2×Hard Aono Aoto (Final Drops)). Overall, I would say I’m pleased would with the consistency of the edge throughout the length of the blade. All were able to cut into the skin of ripe tomatoes nicely and did not experience any issues going through the flesh. It’s not a magical fix for any prior issues I had, but it sure helped finish the blade off. Example of this is with the Saji. I feel the blade is a bit thick behind the edge, but I’m too scared to attempt to thin it an destroy the pattern. So while it still can cut, it’s not the nice feeling I want to experience.


You can modify the method till you get something you like - It's a surprisingly versatile deburring technique, once you understand what's going on at the edge.


----------



## jwthaparc (Dec 13, 2022)

Kippington said:


> You can modify the method till you get something you like - It's a surprisingly versatile deburring technique, once you understand what's going on at the edge.


I need to know this knife making thing you mentioned in passing earlier in the thread. Its going to drive me crazy, not knowing.


----------



## OyakoDont (Dec 13, 2022)

Kippington said:


> You can modify the method till you get something you like - It's a surprisingly versatile deburring technique, once you understand what's going on at the edge.


It’s not that I don’t believe you, I lack the fundamental understanding to be more creative. Or at least that’s how I see it. What’s your favorite material for understanding the edge?


----------



## The_Real_Self (Dec 13, 2022)

Would this method work to deburr on a finer finishing grit after taking a knife straight off a Tormek grinding wheel at 220 grit? 

The Tormek wheel is my standard tool for reprofiling and after I get done shaping the edge there's always a prominent and difficult to remove burr even after trying to minimize it with a couple light passes and increasing the angle slightly. 

My goal is to simply use a micro-bevel to set the apex finish between 600-2000 and not polish the entire edge bevel (leaving 220 finish) as it adds little performance wise. I often spend 30-60 minutes on the Tormek reprofiling and want to spend as little time as possible to deburr and apex.


----------



## Kippington (Dec 13, 2022)

The_Real_Self said:


> The Tormek wheel is my standard tool for reprofiling and after I get done shaping the edge there's always a prominent and difficult to remove burr even after trying to minimize it with a couple light passes and increasing the angle slightly.


I was gonna suggest this, but it seems you've already done it!

Doing it this way should make the burr smaller, then you can go ahead and remove it using any deburring method you want.
If the burr is small, you won't need to use much force to get rid of it - no matter which method you choose.



OyakoDont said:


> What’s your favorite material for understanding the edge?


Knife making!


----------



## r0bz (Jan 1, 2023)

Kippington said:


> Before recording, I made the burr as big as possible to make it easier for the camera to pick up.
> If you wanna make your own phat burr, sharpen at a low angle with low grit and high pressure.
> 
> 
> ...


when you do the 90 degrees pass do you apply a lot of pressure ?
or very light pressure


----------



## M1k3 (Jan 1, 2023)

I'd think very light. But try with high pressure.


----------



## Kippington (Jan 1, 2023)

r0bz said:


> when you do the 90 degrees pass do you apply a lot of pressure ?
> or very light pressure


Light pressure.
If it doesn't work, resharpen then try it with more.

You know what....


jwthaparc said:


> I need to know this knife making thing you mentioned in passing earlier in the thread. Its going to drive me crazy, not knowing.



I'll post another video in a short while, in the hope it will clear both these questions up a bit.


----------



## Kippington (Jan 1, 2023)

@r0bz
This is a good starting point to learn how much pressure to use. As you improve your sharpening, you'll need less pressure than this - as if you had used thinner tape. (Use a coarse stone for thick tape)

@jwthaparc
This is one of the ways to use the technique, to protect a knife in the works.


----------



## Dhoff (Jan 1, 2023)

Kippington said:


> @r0bz
> This is a good starting point to learn how much pressure to use.
> 
> @jwthaparc
> This is one of the ways to use the technique to protect a knife in the works.




That was dang cool to a sharpening newbie


----------



## jwthaparc (Jan 1, 2023)

Kippington said:


> @r0bz
> This is a good starting point to learn how much pressure to use.
> 
> @jwthaparc
> This is one of the ways to use the technique to protect a knife in the works.



Ah got it


----------



## enchappo (Jan 2, 2023)

Consider that burr officially removed


----------



## Kippington (Jan 2, 2023)

enchappo said:


> View attachment 217288
> Consider that burr officially removed


It's kinda satisfying to see it, isn't it?


----------



## enchappo (Jan 2, 2023)

Kippington said:


> It's kinda satisfying to see it, isn't it?


Extremely!


----------

