# Unstabilized Ho Wood Handle Care?



## Yamabushi (Nov 23, 2013)

Inspired by the discussion in this thread, http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/15598-Gesshin-Heiji-or-Kato-Work-Horse/page2, what is the recommended handle care and what are the best practices when starting with a new knife with an unstabilized ho wood handle?


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## bkultra (Nov 23, 2013)

The two main schools of thought are:

1) do nothing they are made to be replaced 

2) treat with mineral oil or a mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. This will help prevent staining but will also darken the color and prevent the wood fibers from standing up when wet.

Edit: 3) replace with a custom handle that the knife deserves. :laugh:


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## ecchef (Nov 23, 2013)

You're in Japan, so you shouldn't have many problems. It's the difference in climate that causes shrinkage & cracking issues in the US. Or so I've been told.


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## bahamaroot (Nov 23, 2013)

A couple coats of tru-oil, Linseed oil or Danish oil and never think about it again.


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## Yamabushi (Nov 23, 2013)

Thank you for all the quick replies and the multiple suggestions! I have some time (3 months), so before deciding I'll look around to see what is locally available. When my new knife arrives, I will almost certainly do a few coats of some sort of oil, most likely one of the aforementioned. Does anyone know what the professionals here in Japan normally do?


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## JBroida (Nov 23, 2013)

very little to be honest... but tsubaki oil is commonly used for the knives, so some chefs use it on handles too. Mineral oil and beeswax works better though (1:4-ish ratio).


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## Yamabushi (Nov 23, 2013)

Great to hear from you, Jon! I was hoping you were going to jump in. I appreciate you sharing your extensive knowledge. I was mostly just curious, for me this is definitely a case of preferring what works over what is "traditional". The mineral oil & beeswax mix recommendation sounds good!


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## panda (Nov 23, 2013)

honestly i think ho wood is perfectly fine, i treat all my handles with multiple coats of mineral oil.


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## Ruso (Nov 23, 2013)

I use mineral oil and beeswax mix. Very easy and cheap to make at home an last a while.


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## Lefty (Nov 24, 2013)

That's what I use too. It works pretty well.


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## ecchef (Nov 24, 2013)

You're in Tokyo, Man! Pop over to kapabashi dori and start picking peoples brains! Most of us in the States would kill to have that opportunity.


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## Yamabushi (Nov 24, 2013)

ecchef said:


> You're in Tokyo, Man! Pop over to kapabashi dori and start picking peoples brains! Most of us in the States would kill to have that opportunity.


 Haha! I'm in Kappabashi every other week, of course looking at knives, but mainly to restock on my custom roasted coffee beans from Union Coffee. It's only about a 10 minute bicycle ride from my home.


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## orange (Nov 24, 2013)

I tried tsubaki oil and bee wax as well. In the end, I liked tru-oil more. ^^


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## Yamabushi (Nov 24, 2013)

orange said:


> I tried tsubaki oil and bee wax as well. In the end, I liked tru-oil more. ^^


 With the Tru-oil are you applying multiple coats, or just one? Does the Tru-oil darken and/or alter the color of the ho wood?


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## bahamaroot (Nov 24, 2013)

I use three coats and sand with 600 grit paper in between coats. It does not darken the wood.


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## Yamabushi (Nov 24, 2013)

bahamaroot said:


> I use three coats and sand with 600 grit paper in between coats. It does not darken the wood.


 Thank you for follow-up!


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## dmccurtis (Nov 24, 2013)

I've used mineral oil, beeswax and mineral oil, and tung oil. They all work. People underestimate how nice ho wood can be when finely sanded and properly finished.


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## franzb69 (Dec 3, 2013)

the slightly rough texture help with grip though. little things like that by japanese knife makers are what makes the difference. the handles were made to be abused, utilitarian, and at the same time have great grip even when wet. the grip on bare ho wood reminds me of micarta really.


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## dmccurtis (Dec 4, 2013)

I agree. What I meant was that some people assume that because ho is left rough that it is an inferior wood, when in fact it can be quite nicely finished. That it can, though, doesn't mean that it should be.


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## panda (Dec 4, 2013)

i hate smooth handles, they should have texture, not shiny and pretty.


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## Yamabushi (Dec 4, 2013)

Interesting and valid points dmcurtis, franzb69, and panda. And I agree, ultimately handles should be utilitarian. That being said I'm using my knives at home, not in a super intensive work environment, and IMHO the pinch grip minimizes slippery handle issues. I'll see how the handles on my SS Heiji's are when they get here in February, but I definitely have a preference towards the more finished end of the spectrum. If they are very rough, I may consider doing some work on them.


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## Yamabushi (Dec 4, 2013)

I read somewhere about someone soaking their ho wood handle in mineral oil for about a week. It appeared to darken the wood a bit and bring out a bit more grain, which I am not opposed to. At this point I'm just considering options, but is a one week soak overkill or otherwise a bad thing to do?


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## franzb69 (Dec 4, 2013)

i soaked mine for a couple of days. i haven't had to soak it again in a matter of months. but with the number of knives we knifeknuts have, it's not like we can get to use them all, all the time.

hasn't given me trouble when it comes to grip, even after the soaking.

i don't mind pretty shiny handles, if you're not working on stuff for long hours at a time and not having an overly wet environment, makes handles slippery.


there's a reason why wa handles are also not glued on, coz some pro kitchen peeps actually take off their ho wood handles so they can let the wood dry out and not rust out the tang. then they just put them back on again.


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## icanhaschzbrgr (Dec 4, 2013)

and when you get bored with oiling plain handles, there are an army of talented makers here who would make and awesome handle for you :knife:


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## franzb69 (Dec 4, 2013)

the only thing that i don't like about naked ho wood is that when you're working on something that leaves a stain, it'll be next to impossible to remove that stain. it's like patina on your blade but you can't buff it out. lol. or when you're sharpening your knife and some particulates are left, it sticks to your handle. sure you can wash some of it off, but you can never wash it all off. just like micarta.


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## bahamaroot (Dec 4, 2013)

panda said:


> i hate smooth handles, they should have texture, not shiny and pretty.


Just like knives themselves, it's all personal preference.


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## ChefCosta (Feb 25, 2014)

Are the mineral oil and beeswax mixed together or applied in sequence?


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## toddnmd (Feb 25, 2014)

ChefCosta said:


> Are the mineral oil and beeswax mixed together or applied in sequence?



They're mixed together, and then the mixture is applied. You can use commercially formulated mixtures (which can be bought at a home center like Lowe's or Home Depot), which are more typically used for conditioning cutting boards.


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## Keith Sinclair (Feb 26, 2014)

When I was blocking Ahi quarters for banquet sashimi platters.Fish would get on the Ho handle.End of shift would have to scrub handle.

Alot of good suggestions on this site.I like beeswax & mineral oil.Another option is 50/50 pure tung oil & bullseye clear shellac,you can buff it or leave it unbuffed for more grip.


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