# Forgecraft hi carbon 9.75 Chef's Knife



## Roastveg (Nov 18, 2020)

I love this knife! I find that I'm creeping pretty far forward with my pinch grip when I need extra agility. (balance pt. seems to be about an inch in front of the handle) Has anyone ground in a choil on one of these and/or softened the spine? If so, did you do it to make your pinch grip more comfortable and did it work? 

Thanks in advance for your time and feedback!


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## birdsfan (Nov 18, 2020)

I have never done this to that specific blade, but I have done it on a number of Japanese blades, for exactly the same reason. Yes, it definitely does make gripping the knife more comfortable. Some of the better makers, who are concerned with fit and finish make easing the spine and choil a part of their process.


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## Roastveg (Nov 18, 2020)

Thanks man!
I will circle back. I will probably just go easy a little bit at a time until it feels right!


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## M1k3 (Nov 18, 2020)

Use sandpaper like you're shining shoes. Finishing at 2k grit feels nice and silky. 400-800 works though.


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## PappaG (Nov 18, 2020)

I have done both, but have not focussed on the balance point. Softening/crating/grinding a choil is much harder then working on the spine...


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## M1k3 (Nov 18, 2020)

If you have a vice, you can use that. If not, in between some books with something heavy on top?


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## Roastveg (Nov 19, 2020)

Thanks guys! Wasn't sure what grit I would start with. That's a great heads up on finishing with the 2K. I may not have to do anything with the choil. I would probably have gone at that with a Dremel to start but that's also a great heads up on the work there. Could be a little rabbit hole to try and get it just right. Perhaps just soften it a bit. 

Thanks always for your feedback!


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## birdsfan (Nov 19, 2020)

I started at 220, and moved up a grit progression to smooth the appearance. I generally finished at 1000, but the high the grit to more finished the feel and look. I was always scared to try the Dremel. They take metal off so quickly that I was afraid I would make a dimple that would be hard to smooth out. Your hand might be steadier than mine though. An artist, I am not!


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## Roastveg (Nov 19, 2020)

Gotchya! I was thinking of using the Dremel to curve the choil (indent) a tad for my middle finger but I'm leaving it alone. Maybe just soften it a bit with the 1K / 2K.


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## Roastveg (Nov 19, 2020)

Ugh
Time to get on my horse!
Have a great day and thank kindly!


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## spaceconvoy (Nov 19, 2020)

So you mean not just rounding the choil, but removing material to change the profile? You could move the heel forward a few mm or create a TF-style finger rest. I like using a dremel with reinforced cutoff wheel for that type of work. You can use it the normal way to rough-cut the basic shape leaving a ~1mm margin for error, then use the edge of the wheel to grind the finished profile. My hand isn't particularly steady but I was able to get a nice smooth curve that way.


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## NO ChoP! (Nov 19, 2020)

Dremels like to travel. One slip and you've got a trail across your blade face that's really hard to get rid of.


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## Roastveg (Nov 19, 2020)

NO ChoP! said:


> Dremels like to travel. One slip and you've got a trail across your blade face that's really hard to get rid of.


Yes indeed!


spaceconvoy said:


> So you mean not just rounding the choil, but removing material to change the profile? You could move the heel forward a few mm or create a TF-style finger rest. I like using a dremel with reinforced cutoff wheel for that type of work. You can use it the normal way to rough-cut the basic shape leaving a ~1mm margin for error, then use the edge of the wheel to grind the finished profile. My hand isn't particularly steady but I was able to get a nice smooth curve that way.


Got it! Yes, was thinking of putting a very slight belly forward in the back of the heel and then softening the edges of course. Is that called a choil ?


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## spaceconvoy (Nov 19, 2020)

NO ChoP! said:


> Dremels like to travel. One slip and you've got a trail across your blade face that's really hard to get rid of.


I didn't find the dremel difficult to control on its lowest speed. The only problem I had was when trying to cut too acutely to the edge, less than 10 degrees off from the existing spine. Doing it again I would have been more conservative and spent more time grinding off a larger margin, but I'd still use the dremel. Could always lay down multiple layers of tape or even make a wooden jig if you want to be extra careful. What would you use for this type of project? All the alternatives I could think of (without buying new tools) seemed painfully slow.


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## birdsfan (Nov 19, 2020)

Yeah, removing that much metal and I would probably risk the Dremel too. I have never undertaken something like that on hardened blade metal. I just rounded the choil. Not sure how else to do it. Bench grinder?


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## Roastveg (Nov 19, 2020)

I would probably try a bench mounted dremel with a 1/2" round stone, stone, slow speed, water drip. But I'm just going to ease/smooth the shoulders of the spine and the back of the heel. 
Thanks everyone!!!


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## ian (Nov 19, 2020)

Dremel ftw. I've ground down fingerguards on a few knives with one. Works.


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## drsmp (Nov 19, 2020)

I used the dremel super rough sand paper wheel to make rounded out heel. Didn’t take long at all and the finish was pretty smooth. Went to the higher grit wheels to get a nice smooth finish.


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## drsmp (Nov 19, 2020)

Before and after


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## Roastveg (Nov 19, 2020)

Looks perfect ! Maybe I will hollow mine out a tad.


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## Roastveg (Nov 19, 2020)

Did it make a big difference for you drsmp? Not just comfort but feel for the last inch of the tip of the blade?


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## tomsch (Nov 20, 2020)

I have a two Forgecrafts in a box in my garage I need to dig out now that I've seen this thread!


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## drsmp (Nov 20, 2020)

@Roastveg I use a pinch grip and the modified HF is much more comfortable for me . Start at mid heel with the sanding wheel and work your way up to the tang so you don’t mess up the handle. I make a template with blue masking tape to make sure I like the shape and once taped on the blade helps guide the metal removal. Taping the areas nearby that you aren’t working on helps prevent unintended damage.


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## drsmp (Nov 20, 2020)

My first knife project - complete refinish of a deeply pitted Forgecraft, wa handle conversion and forced mustard patina


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

tomsch said:


> I have a two Forgecrafts in a box in my garage I need to dig out now that I've seen this thread!


If you want to part with one please let me know! 
Thanks!


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

drsmp said:


> My first knife project - complete refinish of a deeply pitted Forgecraft, wa handle conversion and forced mustard patinaView attachment 103672
> View attachment 103673


F'n love it!
Nice job!


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

drsmp said:


> @Roastveg I use a pinch grip and the modified HF is much more comfortable for me . Start at mid heel with the sanding wheel and work your way up to the tang so you don’t mess up the handle. I make a template with blue masking tape to make sure I like the shape and once taped on the blade helps guide the metal removal. Taping the areas nearby that you aren’t working on helps prevent unintended damage.


Thank you!
I'm all in!


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## 29palms (Nov 20, 2020)

It would be easier to rehandle it and move the handle back 1/4" + you'd have a nice handle.


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

29palms said:


> It would be easier to rehandle it and move the handle back 1/4" + you'd have a nice handle.


That would be cool also but the balance point is about 7/8ths of an inch in front of the handle which is where I like to pinch the blade.

Thank you!


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## drsmp (Nov 20, 2020)

Took less than 5 min to notch the heel


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

drsmp said:


> Took less than 5 min to notch the heel


I'm there!


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

Thank you, everyone, for the generosity of your time and expertise!
I love knives. I've had a set of Henkel 4 stars for about 35 yrs. Unfortunately they are still in perfect condition. I really want to dive head first into high carbon and super fine grain steels that are insanely sharpenable.


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## birdsfan (Nov 20, 2020)

Don't let your Henckels perfect condition stop you. Just about everyone in this forum is guilty of having a dozen or more gyutos!


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## M1k3 (Nov 20, 2020)

birdsfan said:


> Don't let your Henckels perfect condition stop you. Just about everyone in this forum is guilty of having a dozen or more gyutos!


And sharpening stones.


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## birdsfan (Nov 20, 2020)

How else would we keep our dozen plus gyutos in perfect condition!


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

birdsfan said:


> Don't let your Henckels perfect condition stop you. Just about everyone in this forum is guilty of having a dozen or more gyutos!


I Fn love this s***!


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

I decided to "date" different inexpensive used knives and steels for a year before trying to find the perfect bride. Hence the Forgie. I want to learn how different steels feel on the stones.


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## tomsch (Nov 20, 2020)

Roastveg said:


> If you want to part with one please let me know!
> Thanks!


I'll let you know. This weekend is garage clean-out time since my wife is looking for Christmas decorations so I'll find them.


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

tomsch said:


> I'll let you know. This weekend is garage clean-out time since my wife is looking for Christmas decorations so I'll find them.


Thank you!


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## Roastveg (Nov 20, 2020)

Did anybody here end up at HAP40, or SG2, or ZDP189?


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## mikeeyS (Nov 12, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> So you mean not just rounding the choil, but removing material to change the profile? You could move the heel forward a few mm or create a TF-style finger rest. I like using a dremel with reinforced cutoff wheel for that type of work. You can use it the normal way to rough-cut the basic shape leaving a ~1mm margin for error, then use the edge of the wheel to grind the finished profile. My hand isn't particularly steady but I was able to get a nice smooth curve that way.


What's a TF style finger rest ? Another acronym for my dictionary


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## spaceconvoy (Nov 12, 2021)

mikeeyS said:


> What's a TF style finger rest ? Another acronym for my dictionary











Teruyasu Fujiwara


The knives Fujiwara-san makes are the real darlings of Knifewear. Partially because he forges the complete knife from start to finish. Many blacksmiths make a blade with a carbon steel core and laminate it with stainless steel for lower maintenance, well this guy invented that process.




knifewear.com


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## tostadas (Nov 12, 2021)

mikeeyS said:


> What's a TF style finger rest ? Another acronym for my dictionary


It refers to the maker Teruyasu Fujiwara (TF), who is known for including a notch in the choil area for your finger


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## M1k3 (Nov 13, 2021)

tostadas said:


> It refers to the maker Teruyasu Fujiwara (TF), who is known for including overgrinds, poor fitting handle scales, playing "20 pictures" to find the least messed up one, ridiculous price jump from 210mm to 240mm, bent spine and poor fit and finish all around a notch in the choil area for your finger


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## tostadas (Nov 13, 2021)

M1k3 said:


>


And the kind folks here are still trying to convince me to add yet another to my collection.


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## M1k3 (Nov 13, 2021)

tostadas said:


> And the kind folks here are still trying to convince me to add yet another to my collection.





CiderBear said:


> But I won't know unless I get to try one, arghhhhh


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