# Carbonext sharpening with Wicked Edge system



## leonoe (Jun 10, 2013)

Hello folks... I'm new to the forum and have been doing a bit of reading in search for my first J-knife. I'm knowledgeable about EDC knives but "new" to kitchen knives... I've been using a Forschner chef's knife that needs upgrading.

I'm specifically looking for a gyuto and believe I have narrowed it down to a JCK Carbonext 240 gyuto. It seems to fit the bill for being a great all-around knife and bang for the buck. I've read that one of it's shortcomings is it's OOtB edge and will likely require a new edge to be set.

I never invested the time to learn how to sharpen using stones so purchased a Wicked Edge system to maintain my EDC's. I know the CN has a 60/40 double bevel but can't seem find any info on the angles after searching KKF and other forums. I know I can use the sharpie paint method but does anyone know what the angles are? Also, has anyone sharpened a CN gyuto using a Wicked Edge sharpener and have any tips?

Thanks


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## tk59 (Jun 10, 2013)

I wouldn't sharpen a CN too much lower than about 25 deg total included angle. I'd go with 15/10.


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## rdpx (Jun 11, 2013)

I have only sharpened by CN on stones, but I had never used stones before. I found that the knife was very forgiving for a beginner sharpener - I made mistakes but they were easily rectified and it feels lovely on the stones [though I have little to compare it to]. I am certainly very happy with my CarboNext and I am sure you will be also. You might think about getting a stone or two and learning how to use them. It is not hard and is kind of therapeutic.

Failing that I agree with tk 25deg total seems about right.


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## leonoe (Jun 11, 2013)

Thanks for the insight on the CN... 

RDPX, I ran across your post regarding the sharpening of a CN from a few months ago... it looks like you ended up putting a micro bevel on the "red" edge on the right side in the pic below (I hope you don't mind me using your pic). How is that working out for you?


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## Dave Martell (Jun 11, 2013)

leone,
Since Japanese knives (well most) aren't sharpened using machines or jigs you'll find that the angles can be anything so it's best to get away from thinking about numbers when searching for the correct angle of approach. Instead I'd suggest looking at each side as it's own angle and use what is there already as a guide to start with, grind from the top of the bevel (the transition of edge bevel and blade face) down to the edge until a burr is formed evenly along the length of the edge. Then flip the knife over and repeat.

In your case you're using a WE so I guess that you'll want to set each side up independently but then go to doing both at the same time? Only issue here is how do you detect for burr formation?

I would NOT look to modify the asymmetry as shown in the picture above - nothing good comes from that - but you will likely get some bad....like steering and wedging issues after a few sharpening sessions.



PS - welcome to KKF


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## leonoe (Jun 11, 2013)

Dave, thanks for the info about the angles... it was driving me crazy that I couldn't find info about the angles - now I know why! Seems like the marker paint method would be best to guide my grind based on your recommendation...



Dave Martell said:


> In your case you're using a WE so I guess that you'll want to set each side up independently but then go to doing both at the same time? Only issue here is how do you detect for burr formation?



Yes, I had planned on setting each side up independent of each other to keep the 60/40... I also plan on grinding one side at a time to draw the burr vs. using both simultaneously.

Thanks again to everyone... this has been very helpful!


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## rdpx (Jun 11, 2013)

leonoe said:


> Thanks for the insight on the CN...
> 
> RDPX, I ran across your post regarding the sharpening of a CN from a few months ago... it looks like you ended up putting a micro bevel on the "red" edge on the right side in the pic below (I hope you don't mind me using your pic). How is that working out for you?



I think it has been working fine - the knife is nice and sharp and seems to hold it fairly well. I don't really have anything to compare it to though as I was using old blunt SS euro knives before this. I am very pleased with it though.


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## Lefty (Jun 11, 2013)

Dave, I must say, that's one of your best "regular" posts I've read. I know that seems strange, but I mean it.


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## Dave Martell (Jun 11, 2013)

Lefty said:


> Dave, I must say, that's one of your best "regular" posts I've read. I know that seems strange, but I mean it.




Thanks Tom


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## Justin0505 (Jun 12, 2013)

I have a Kikuichi TKC, which is vsry similar too, but not the same as the CN, so i dont know if the same will hold true, but mine benifited significantly from sone thinning behind the edge which requires hitting behind the primary edge bevel and a more acute angle than the WE can reach.


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## Benuser (Jun 12, 2013)

That's indeed good practice. Different guided systems tend to focus on the very edge and neglect geometry. The result is a great edge and poor cutter.


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