# Cutting bard-Hinoki vs Walnut vs Maple vs Cherry



## khashy

I have an edge grain walnut board that I'm finding too small, so I'm in the market for a new board.

Knives I use are pretty much all carbon gyutos and I try to keep my edges sharp.

What are the recommendations? Endgrain Walnut vs maple vs cherry.

Also how does Hinoki compare to these?

Thanks.


----------



## Pensacola Tiger

I've got three boards in rotation - maple, cherry, and walnut - and I keep coming back to my favorite, the maple. It's a bit harder than the others, and feels the best when cutting on it. Not as pretty, but ...


----------



## khashy

Pensacola Tiger said:


> I've got three boards in rotation - maple, cherry, and walnut - and I keep coming back to my favorite, the maple. It's a bit harder than the others, and feels the best when cutting on it. Not as pretty, but ...



Thanks R.

Which one do you find easiest on your blade? Is there a discernible difference in terms of how they edges at the end of your prep?


----------



## bkultra

I own a beautiful walnut cutting board, but you are paying a premium for looks. Maple offers the best bang for the buck


----------



## khashy

bkultra said:


> I own a beautiful walnut cutting board, but you are paying a premium for looks. Maple offers the best bang for the buck



Thank you BK.

Given the larger size, I think the price difference will be significant. If there is no functional benefit I will write walnut off the list.

So need to hear opinions regarding maple vs cherry and then to figure out where hinoki sits in all of this.


----------



## foody518

Maple I think should be clearly the hardest of all your options (at least the maple used for end grain boards in the US). Cherry and Walnut aren't far off from each other compared to Maple
227wood on ebay has end grain walnut boards, sap pattern, for a decent prices. Just not sure what shipping to UK would be


----------



## khashy

foody518 said:


> Maple I think should be clearly the hardest of all your options (at least the maple used for end grain boards in the US). Cherry and Walnut aren't far off from each other compared to Maple
> 227wood on ebay has end grain walnut boards, sap pattern, for a decent prices. Just not sure what shipping to UK would be



Oh cool, he also has maple and cherry actually. Shipping isn't actually too bad, 39$


----------



## Pensacola Tiger

khashy said:


> Thanks R.
> 
> Which one do you find easiest on your blade? Is there a discernible difference in terms of how they edges at the end of your prep?



There isn't any discernible difference in the edge, at least that I can detect.


----------



## bkultra

Pensacola Tiger said:


> There isn't any discernible difference in the edge, at least that I can detect.




Agreed, I have used all three and can't tell much of a difference in this regard. The one thing I have noticed is my walnut board seems to have slightly more open pores and requires oil more often.


----------



## khashy

Pensacola Tiger said:


> There isn't any discernible difference in the edge, at least that I can detect.



Right, can I just clarify what you mean by maple feeling the best? Is this how it 'hugs' the knife? Or the sound?


----------



## bkultra

Maple has a slightly faster feel IMO, almost as if the knife glides on the surface better. This is also why some prefer edge grain (Salty if I recall).


----------



## khashy

Thanks BK.

I can get these locally here, what do you guys think of these?

http://www.originalwoodtops.co.uk/maple-end-grain.html


----------



## bkultra

From the one picture it appears they use different size blocks (perhaps scraps from a larger project). It also looks like the blocks don't have a consistent running bond (every other row doesn't line up). I would also ask what glue is used, you want titebond 3 or similar. 

A good running bond will add strength. It should look just like brickwork


----------



## khashy

bkultra said:


> From the one picture it appears they use different size blocks (perhaps scraps from a larger project). It also looks like the blocks don't have a consistent running bond (every other row doesn't line up). I would also ask what glue is used, you want titebond 3 or similar.
> 
> A good running bond will add strength. It should look just like brickwork
> 
> View attachment 34934




Aha! I see what you mean. It also looks 'cheap' compared to what foody pointed out


----------



## bkultra

You want a board made with a consistent and larger block size, preferably utilizing a running bond. Smaller blocks are often a sign that scrap pieces were used and requires more glued joints.

Here is my board as an example, notice the consistency in both size and the running bond.


----------



## khashy

Yup, I see it. Boardsmith?


----------



## bkultra

khashy said:


> Yup, I see it. Boardsmith?



Correct


----------



## khashy

I really need to bring forward my trip to your side of the pond....
I have so many things I want to buy there


----------



## aboynamedsuita

I was in the same situation a couple years ago:
http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/24249-Maple-Cherry-or-Walnut-for-Cutting-Board

I liked my 16x22x2.5 end grain napalm boardsmith enough that I also went and got a 12x20x2 made from the same maker as my mag rack.

I haven't had problems using maple end grain for edges, but technique also comes into consideration. Hinoki is softer but you can easily dig into the board

I also have hinoki and it is lighter and softer although edge grain, smells nice too. CuttingBoard.com has Kiso and Kodai hinoki boards and DHL shipping to Canada was decent, not sure what the uk would be.

Also have an interesting wood called Aomori hiba which is like hinoki but an entire slab, haven't used them as they were pretty expensive and I'd reserve them for special occasions


----------



## khashy

aboynamedsuita said:


> I was in the same situation a couple years ago:
> http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/24249-Maple-Cherry-or-Walnut-for-Cutting-Board
> 
> I liked my 16x22x2.5 end grain napalm boardsmith enough that I also went and got a 12x20x2 made from the same maker as my mag rack.
> 
> I haven't had problems using maple end grain for edges, but technique also comes into consideration. Hinoki is softer but you can easily dig into the board
> 
> I also have hinoki and it is lighter and softer although edge grain, smells nice too. CuttingBoard.com has Kiso and Kodai hinoki boards and DHL shipping to Canada was decent, not sure what the uk would be.
> 
> Also have an interesting wood called Aomori hiba which is like hinoki but an entire slab, haven't used them as they were pretty expensive and I'd reserve them for special occasions



You realise what you're doing right? This is just eroding away my knives budget.

Joking aside, I'll definitely order a boardsmith and bring it back with me. I will also probably get a hinoki too 'for the missus'.


----------



## foody518

Agree about hinoki edge grain feeling softer. And you can cut visible grooves into it with J-knives pretty easily
Here's my 2 end grain from 227wood and top chop butcher block
They both aren't 100% flat across all the corners but I just place a folded paper towel under one of the corners and it's no problem


----------



## Casaluz

I have a couple of beautiful mosaic end grain boards, however I tried one of the hinoki boards from cutting board . com and it was a revelation for me. Yes it is softer, and yes it smells wonderful, and yes it shows its use, and yes I think it is gentler to the J knives. Using hinoki has changed my cutting technique and if it's almost exclusively what I now use on a daily basis.


----------



## khashy

foody518 said:


> Agree about hinoki edge grain feeling softer. And you can cut visible grooves into it with J-knives pretty easily
> Here's my 2 end grain from 227wood and top chop butcher block
> They both aren't 100% flat across all the corners but I just place a folded paper towel under one of the corners and it's no problem



Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the boards and roughly how much they weigh? They'd have to fit into a suitcase!


----------



## foody518

khashy said:


> Would you mind sharing the dimensions of the boards and roughly how much they weigh? They'd have to fit into a suitcase!



Ooooh good point. 
Walnut 22x18x1.8 inches. Plus little feet on the bottom side however much that adds
Cherry 24x18x2 inches
(going off website quoted dimensions. I've never bothed to measure)
I'll weigh them tomorrow when I get home but would esimate the cherry at around 20lbs


----------



## khashy

foody518 said:


> Ooooh good point.
> Walnut 22x18x1.8 inches. Plus little feet on the bottom side however much that adds
> Cherry 24x18x2 inches
> (going off website quoted dimensions. I've never bothed to measure)
> I'll weigh them tomorrow when I get home but would esimate the cherry at around 20lbs



Thanks, 20lbs isn't too bad. I'm going to have next to no luggage and the case will be pretty much filled with knives and kitchen related things hat don't weigh much


----------



## foody518

khashy said:


> Thanks, 20lbs isn't too bad. I'm going to have next to no luggage and the case will be pretty much filled with knives and kitchen related things hat don't weigh much



But for 20 lbs you could be getting yourself like 40 knives :O


----------



## Jovidah

Any particular reason you don't have beech on your list? They tend to offer the most bang for the buck...Though not the most attractive looks.


----------



## khashy

foody518 said:


> But for 20 lbs you could be getting yourself like 40 knives :O



Ha!

I think the customs officer won't believe they are all for my personal use....


----------



## khashy

Jovidah said:


> Any particular reason you don't have beech on your list? They tend to offer the most bang for the buck...Though not the most attractive looks.



No reason really, I've just not read a lot of recommendations about beech


----------



## Jovidah

khashy said:


> No reason really, I've just not read a lot of recommendations about beech



Me neither... maybe it's not as common in the US? But I'm perfectly satisfied with my (rather cheapish) end-grain beech cutting board. I know some others who are as well. So I wouldn't necessarily write it off, especially when going for price / performance.
The only real downside I can see is that it might not look as pretty.


----------



## khashy

Jovidah said:


> Me neither... maybe it's not as common in the US? But I'm perfectly satisfied with my (rather cheapish) end-grain beech cutting board. I know some others who are as well. So I wouldn't necessarily write it off, especially when going for price / performance.
> The only real downside I can see is that it might not look as pretty.



I'm nit too hung up on looks tbh. I just want to buy a cutting board that will last me at least 5 years,in terms of how it treats my edges.

Where did you buy yours from?


----------



## foody518

Weighed my cherry board, right at 20lbs


----------



## khashy

foody518 said:


> Weighed my cherry board, right at 20lbs



We should have taken bets.

Thank you


----------



## Jovidah

khashy said:


> I'm nit too hung up on looks tbh. I just want to buy a cutting board that will last me at least 5 years,in terms of how it treats my edges.
> 
> Where did you buy yours from?


I have a 45x35x4 cm end-grain board from a brand called "Butler". Sold at least in the Netherlands and Germany, don't know if they're distributed further in Europe. Cost me about 30 bucks, and after 5 years of home use still looks brand new. Cuts real smooth too.
At least one other member here has one, and some of my friends, and all seem to be quite happy with them.

Only issues: 
-Tends to arrive rather dry so needs a lot of oil on arrival; at least half a liter in my case. (Ikea is the cheapest supply BTW).
-You have to oil it before use or - like most woods - you'll encounter issues with warping. This is why there are a lot of 'negative' reviews about these kind of boards.
-Apparently newer ones don't have the baby-bottom smooth finish mine had. So newer ones might benefit from a bit of fine sanding.

But that's just one example of a beech cutting board. I'm sure there are plenty of other brands and producers. I'm quite happy with mine and would certainly consider it as a material for a larger board. I think they're simply not talked about as much in the US because the wood is a lot less common and cheap over there. But quality-wise I see no problems with it.


----------



## khashy

Jovidah said:


> I have a 45x35x4 cm end-grain board from a brand called "Butler". Sold at least in the Netherlands and Germany, don't know if they're distributed further in Europe. Cost me about 30 bucks, and after 5 years of home use still looks brand new. Cuts real smooth too.
> At least one other member here has one, and some of my friends, and all seem to be quite happy with them.
> 
> Only issues:
> -Tends to arrive rather dry so needs a lot of oil on arrival; at least half a liter in my case. (Ikea is the cheapest supply BTW).
> -You have to oil it before use or - like most woods - you'll encounter issues with warping. This is why there are a lot of 'negative' reviews about these kind of boards.
> -Apparently newer ones don't have the baby-bottom smooth finish mine had. So newer ones might benefit from a bit of fine sanding.
> 
> But that's just one example of a beech cutting board. I'm sure there are plenty of other brands and producers. I'm quite happy with mine and would certainly consider it as a material for a larger board. I think they're simply not talked about as much in the US because the wood is a lot less common and cheap over there. But quality-wise I see no problems with it.



Thanks. I'll see what beech boards Incan find here. I'd rather not put a 20lbs board in my suitcase if it can be helped


----------



## brooksie967

For anyone that hasn't tried it, larchwood is amazing and there's a retailer in Cape Breton, Nova Scotia that hand makes these with trees they grow.


----------



## aboynamedsuita

I want a larchwood too, don't really need another board right now though


----------



## brooksie967

aboynamedsuita said:


> I want a larchwood too, don't really need another board right now though



I got mine custom made by them. Essentially just a custom size and thickness but it really didn't add much to the price. Board feel is incredible and it is apparently the most forgiving to the edge of your knife along with hinoki.


----------



## WOK-a-holic

HARD ROCK MAPLE !

.....END grain 1st choice ,EDGE grain 2nd choice....forget FACE grain it's garbage,


----------



## WOK-a-holic

HARD ROCK MAPLE #1 !!! :doublethumbsup:
cherry #2
walnut #3
END grain 1st choice ,
EDGE grain 2nd choice
....forget FACE grain it's garbage.


----------



## WOK-a-holic

..
double post.


----------



## shipbuilder

Khash - Hope your trip went as well as expected. I've used maple (edge and end grain) and walnut (end-grain; current board from LoneStar Artisans). Between all the woods, I notice little difference in wear on the edges of carbon steel knives. There is a slight difference in the feel of the blade across the wood; I have found that walnut overall suits my techniques and looks great on a dark marble countertop. About a year ago, I bought a Hi-Soft board from Yoshihiro Cutlery, and must admit that I use it when I have a lot of prep to do, mainly because it seems to cushion the blade more and thus be more comfortable for arthritic hands. Downside: cuts show minimally, it seems to stain if not wiped immediately and some products (chicken, as an example) are more difficult to clean off the surface. But it is small enough to easily be placed in the sink for a good scrub.
Tom


----------



## khashy

shipbuilder said:


> Khash - Hope your trip went as well as expected. I've used maple (edge and end grain) and walnut (end-grain; current board from LoneStar Artisans). Between all the woods, I notice little difference in wear on the edges of carbon steel knives. There is a slight difference in the feel of the blade across the wood; I have found that walnut overall suits my techniques and looks great on a dark marble countertop. About a year ago, I bought a Hi-Soft board from Yoshihiro Cutlery, and must admit that I use it when I have a lot of prep to do, mainly because it seems to cushion the blade more and thus be more comfortable for arthritic hands. Downside: cuts show minimally, it seems to stain if not wiped immediately and some products (chicken, as an example) are more difficult to clean off the surface. But it is small enough to easily be placed in the sink for a good scrub.
> Tom



Thanks, the trip was good, many knives picked up!

In terms of the board, I sort of did a U-turn. I ended up ordering an Aomori Hiba board direct from Japan. It's a nice cedar wood, which is very soft and as you mention, it will show stains. 

I like the smell of it when wet and also the fact that the entire board is one solid piece of wood. very light actually.

Downside is that it's quite expensive and the largest board sizes you can get are not really that large. It's just about manageable for home use.

I think when I upgrade my kitchen and have some more countertop space, I'll get a really nice end-grain board. Until then, Aomori Hiba it is for me


----------



## matbel

For my part, a walnut cutting board can do the same job as a maple cutting board. I bought mine from a one man shop based in Canada Bloc Poisson and it is a walnut board with a nice design.

https://www.blocpoisson.com
https://www.blocpoisson.com/en/meli-melo-cutting-board
https://www.blocpoisson.com/planche-a-decouper-noyer-noir-merisier-wenge


----------

