# Tips for hand sawing handle scales for western handles and blocks for wa handles?



## milkbaby (Oct 21, 2016)

Anybody have good experience hand sawing scales and blocks for both western and wa handles? I don't have access to a table saw and trying not to buy any more pricey equipment...

I was thinking of coping saw or hacksaw as straight as possible then grinding on the disc grinder to flatten. I ordered a few scales and they seemed to lie flat against the blade tang I made, but I'd also like to be able to cut down some wood myself, plus be able to do a wa/hidden tang handle eventually...


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## jessf (Oct 21, 2016)

Mitre box maybe? If tou make the back of the scale slightly hollow it will flatten out and be nice and tight when you glue it to the blade.


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## RDalman (Oct 22, 2016)

I used to do this alot. The best for me I found was marking up my lines, clamp sturdy and freehand saw. For mitre box you probably need a fairly pricey version to get good cuts.


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## milkbaby (Oct 25, 2016)

Thanks y'all! I was thinking about a miter box, but wasn't sure if what's in my price range (cheap) would fit or properly hold the blocks I have. Out of desperation, I did start a test run on a piece of 2x4. One of the issues is judging the swarf, looks like I have to cut fairly large and waste some scrap... I think I'll probably be doing some sanding to get things straight afterwards!


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## Dave Martell (Oct 25, 2016)

If I had to cut blocks by hand I'd try a Japanese saw. I've seen some really precision work being done with those things. Check out YouTube


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## Castalia (Oct 25, 2016)

:cool2:Try something like this


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## RDalman (Oct 26, 2016)

Not sure this goes for all, but I know many of those japanese saws are designed for soft woods. The less aggressive teeth on western saws are a better design for hard woods (or stabilised). Or atleast that's what I gathered when I reseached a bit for this. May be something to consider.


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## Dave Martell (Oct 26, 2016)

RDalman said:


> Not sure this goes for all, but I know many of those japanese saws are designed for soft woods. The less aggressive teeth on western saws are a better design for hard woods (or stabilised). Or atleast that's what I gathered when I reseached a bit for this. May be something to consider.




I didn't know that. Thanks for mentioning it.


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## Matus (Oct 26, 2016)

This thread goes pretty much in the same direction than what I am considering. From what I read the coping saw is not a god idea. Best is a proper 14", 1+ hp bandsaw, but these cost quite a bit and take quite some space. I am probably going to stay with hack saw for the moment and should the pressure grow high enough I will get a proper bandsaw. I heard too many warnings ti pick a table-top 300W for this kind if work.


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