# Sharpening Robert Herder



## Bucky (Jun 14, 2017)

So, got my Robert Herder santoku and parer in.
Bit weird as the santoku doesn't weigh anything 
But how do you sharpen these?
The micro bevel is almost not visible, even with the marker trick. 
Would it be a good plan for me to put a symetrical 15 degree bevel on both sides as a beginner with proper knives and sharpening?


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## Matus (Jun 14, 2017)

These knives are made from fairly simple steels - some microbevel will certainly help to improve edge holding. Did you get carbon or stainless ones?


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## LifeByA1000Cuts (Jun 14, 2017)

Do not put a big 15 degree bevel on it - microbevel yes, but a 15 degree bevel a few mm wide will just make your knife thicker.


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## Sharpchef (Jun 14, 2017)

LifeByA1000Cuts said:


> Do not put a big 15 degree bevel on it - microbevel yes, but a 15 degree bevel a few mm wide will just make your knife thicker.



I think this is a missunderstanding..... 

No Problems with 15 degree per side! The knifes are out of C75, so not the best edge retention but super easy to sharpen and as they are so thin, you can go from 1k to honing Steel. And this will last nearly for ever in homeuse......

greets sebastian


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## Bucky (Jun 14, 2017)

Thx. Got the carbon no stainless ones


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## LifeByA1000Cuts (Jun 14, 2017)

@Sharpchef The blade is probably more acute than any bevel he wants to put on, right to the microbevel ?


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## Benuser (Jun 14, 2017)

Start at the lowest angle you're comfortable with. This will be above the bevel, so you reduce the shoulder. Lift the spine little by little to come nearer to the very edge. Verify your progress by looking at the scratch pattern. Go on until you've raised a burr. That's when you start at the other side, again above the bevel. I would start with a coarse stone as the Herder's edges may be a bit sloppy. 
This steel may get refined as much as you like. Can be maintained with a 8k or a Belgian Blue, or a good 2k, or something in between.


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## Krassi (Jun 16, 2017)

Hmm i also recommend sharpchefs opinion.. I sharpen my knifes freehand on both sides to a 0 Degree angle. of course on side flat the other concave.. then comes the magic with the 16-17 degrees microbevel that i set with my sharpening system on both sides starting with a ohira Suita and then something finer.. the sharpness is still exceptional but the blade keeps the edge 4-x times longer than usual..

If its sounds stupid but it works its not stupid! 

C75 is super easy to get to a insane sharpness.. i also got a custom petty in C75 and its a nice razor.


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## Benuser (Jun 16, 2017)

I'm quite sure you get excellent results with your approach. My purpose though was showing a novice how to restore a previous configuration without having to worry about angles or asymmetry.


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## Krassi (Jun 17, 2017)

I guess you are totally right and the most important thing is that you get the result that you expect! The easier the better .. If you improve you can use more advanced Stuff like i mentioned.. but at the beginning you want easy and consistent results.


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## Bucky (Jun 21, 2017)

watched the youtubes of jki and practiced a bit with one of those soft amefa knives. 
Should get all the stuff to decently sharp/hone with the stones not moving and not make a mess, tomorrow. 
Will see what happens on one of those carbon knives. 
Wasn't able to raze a burr on that soft knife but had something like a 15 degree angle on the stones now. Lansky wasn't able to get it shart on that angle either. Is that related? Used the 220 grit. 
Right, gonna try with the 1000 somewhere the coming days.


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## Benuser (Jun 21, 2017)

Soft stainless is the worst to start with. Just don't. Will take a lot of time to get properly thinned. And the factory edge is very, very obtuse. 
With the Herder it's a different story. Their factory edge is often rather sloppy, but just start above the bevel, and only raise the spine little by little. Go ahead until you raise a burr on the opposite side. I might have suggested the method before, I guess.


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## Benuser (Jun 21, 2017)

As you've opened this thread about sharpening a new carbon Herder, and not so much about sharpening the softest stainless stuff, I have a proposal to do. Forget about those stainless. Send me the Herder and it will get a decent edge you will easily maintain.


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## Bucky (Jun 21, 2017)

I shall get a decent sharp edge on it, I'm convinced :rofl2:
thx though
I just did the stainless just to get used a bit to the movements, as initial practice.


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## Bucky (Jul 14, 2017)

I'm quite happy with my setup.
Bought a atoma 140 to flatten my stones. 
Got my knives super sharp.
I have a question though, when do you move on to the next stone? You raise a burr on both sides and then you move on to the next stone? So that means you do one side, then the other and then you grab your next stone?


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## Benuser (Jul 14, 2017)

Raising, chasing and getting rid of the burr. By flipping sides the burr will get reduced. Only when the burr is just flipping sides without getting smaller anymore it's time to go to the next stone. That being said, I wouldn't worry too much about reducing the first burr on the first -- coarse -- stone. Better reduce it on the next one when the first one is a 400 or even coarser. I want to keep the scratch pattern established by the coarsest stone, and avoid to deteriorate it by edge trailing or even longitudinal strokes on the same coarse stone.


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