# Knife handle question - need some guidance



## johndavid (Aug 25, 2016)

I saw a post and some pictures from the user @mhenry - but evidently he doesn't accept private messages. I understand. 

I want to buy some wood scales to do some custom handles for a knife I own. I am looking for some pointers.

I am trying to find out what tool is used to create the hole in the scale to insert the tang of the knife. The small slot. Is this just done with a drill press and a small drill bit ? 

Also, what is the best way to create the octagon handle shape? Is there any trick? Do I just lay it on the table saw? 

I saw this - http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/mhenry5/media/IMG_0144-Copy.jpg.html

Also, it looks like his scale came with the collar. Who sales these scales with the collar already there? Most that I can find are just one single piece of wood whereas his appears to be two. 

http://s1180.photobucket.com/user/mhenry5/media/IMG_0137.jpg.html


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## RDalman (Aug 25, 2016)

You'll need to make your own handle block. Then I like to rough shape on a sander, drill and insert a slotted dowel wich I can burn fit into. Many ways to do it 

https://www.instagram.com/p/BHKEPa3jAtN/


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## Castalia (Aug 25, 2016)

From your post it sounds like you are making a wa handle. Check this thread for more info: http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/19259-WIP-How-I-Make-a-Wa-Handle

You can buy some blocks from several vendors on the site.:biggrin:

And here is how traditional handles are made in Japan:

[video=youtube;Faq8fG7emYQ]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Faq8fG7emYQ[/video]


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## Castalia (Aug 25, 2016)

And another thread about rasps and broaches for the tang slot:http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/20301-Files-for-tang-hole?highlight=broach


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## johndavid (Aug 26, 2016)

RDalman said:


> You'll need to make your own handle block. Then I like to rough shape on a sander, drill and insert a slotted dowel wich I can burn fit into. Many ways to do it
> 
> https://www.instagram.com/p/BHKEPa3jAtN/



Can you clarify what you mean by a handle block? 


I am looking at buying a decently priced, maybe used, belt sander. Any recommendations? Between this and a drill press I think I can make one. Whats the deal on a lathe? Very helpful to have, a must have? Dont really need? 

It looks like for the tang insert in the handle, people usually do a small drill press into the center and either burn the rest with an insert (like you said) or use a wood file to finish it. With burning the whole with the dowel, can you use a basic blow torch?


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## daveb (Aug 27, 2016)

A stabilized (most wood), dyed (optional) block is the raw material hobbyists start with. We have 3(?) vendors supporting this site that provide excellent product. Shop their "sales" section for good buy on starter blocks.


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## johndavid (Aug 27, 2016)

Yes will do. Do you know if any of the suppliers use k&g for stabilization? I hear they are top notch. Is dream burl the sole burl supplier on here?


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## NO ChoP! (Aug 28, 2016)

I use a dremel for the tang notch, and find that a disc sander is indispensable for octogan shaped handles.


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## ThEoRy (Aug 28, 2016)

johndavid said:


> I saw a post and some pictures from the user @mhenry - but evidently he doesn't accept private messages. I understand.
> 
> I want to buy some wood scales to do some custom handles for a knife I own. I am looking for some pointers.
> 
> ...



I've only made 3 wa handles (#4 in the works) so maybe I do things different than some. I'll try and answer your questions with my own limited experience.

First, for wa handles you want blocks, not scales. Scales are for western style handles.

For the tang slot I used a drill press with a 1/4" drill bit to create a hole the depth of the tang then I used a needle file to widen it in both directions. This was a long process on my Konosuke HD. Super long tang.

To create the octagonal shape I just used a band saw with a tilting table at 45 degrees to slice off the corners of my squared blocks.

For the multi piece construction I drilled a 3/8" hole in all of the parts before assembly then fitted them together using a 3/8" wooden dowel and epoxied them all together forming one piece.

Here is an example of my work.

http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/28317-Apparently-I-can-make-a-wa-handle-now

Feel free to ask any questions regarding the information I have provided.


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## johndavid (Aug 30, 2016)

ThEoRy said:


> I've only made 3 wa handles (#4 in the works) so maybe I do things different than some. I'll try and answer your questions with my own limited experience.
> 
> First, for wa handles you want blocks, not scales. Scales are for western style handles.
> 
> ...



Awesome Yes thank you. Do you have any pics of you removing the original handles? The Nickle silver spacers, how do you grind those/shape them with the handle? Does the sander eat through it also? Seems like this would kill my table saws blade when im shaping the burl. 

The ferrul and the end cap - do you have any pics and/or instructions for making the hole and inserting the wood dowel? I'm assuming the dowel doesnt go all the way through the handle and that you have two dowels? One for the ferrul and one for the end cap? 

I am ordering some burls and plan to play around with my Tojiro and a small cheap knife I planned on throwing away. Instead of the metal spacers Ive seen some people use like (what appeared to me to be) a plastic paper. Need to shop around and see if i can find it.

Edited: I almost forgot - I keep reading about people who make handles and how they dont want to use epoxy because its semi permanent - meaning its hard to go back and take the knife handle off and do something else with it (i guess this is what they mean). Is this true? And if not epoxy, then what?


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## Beau Nidle (Aug 31, 2016)

I would imagine the bandsaw is only used for roughly shaping the block, more work will be done on the sander to get it properly shaped and smoothed. Nickel silver isn't a very tough metal, any sander capable of doing the wood should also be able to handle the nickel.


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## Aleque (Sep 7, 2016)

I'm curious about gluing the pieces of the handle together. Should I use epoxy to combine my ferrule piece and handle piece? I'm using two different kinds of wood for both the ferrule and the handle portion if that makes any difference. Also, with the dowel technique that many are using, how does the dowel stay open? Should I insert something to keep the two "prongs" open while the glue/epoxy (or whatever, see first question) dries?


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## RDalman (Sep 8, 2016)

Yes epoxy, slow curing max strength, I like west gflex. And something to hold open the slot yes. Baking sheets are a good barrier if you want to safe against epoxy leak.


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## clippingpath100 (Sep 8, 2016)

johndavid said:


> I saw a post and some pictures from the user @mhenry - but evidently he doesn't accept private messages. I understand.
> 
> I want to buy some wood scales to do some custom handles for a knife I own. I am looking for some pointers.
> 
> ...


thanks


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## Aleque (Sep 8, 2016)

RDalman said:


> Yes epoxy, slow curing max strength, I like west gflex. And something to hold open the slot yes. Baking sheets are a good barrier if you want to safe against epoxy leak.



Thanks Robin, I'm making my first handle and I'm learning a lot of the steps the hard way. 

In terms of placing the tang in the handle, should I burn the tang in? I've seen videos of people doing it and others that don't. Also, should I epoxy the knife in, or use beeswax? I'm not sure if I want the handle to be permanent, but I would like it to be stable enough to use.


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