# Wa handle Removal



## ms4awd (Jun 9, 2013)

Ive seen videos from maxim on removing wa handles that are just burnt in. Seems simple enough. My question is how do u proceed if the handle was epoxied for the whole tang? or burnt in then filled with epoxy and saw dust/ash to cover/seal the gaps in the tang hole? Any help appreciated. thanks


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## Von blewitt (Jun 9, 2013)

Are you aiming to keep the original handle intact?


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## ms4awd (Jun 9, 2013)

if at all possible. the original is a nice ebony octagon handle? hoping to reuse it on something else


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## bathonuk (Jun 9, 2013)

Boil it. I've done it with Konosuke and it works. Just take your time, it took me about 30 minutes. Do not keep your handle in boiling water for to long. If you hold the heel of the knife you will know temperature so you will not destroy temper. Then use Maxim way of removing handle. So boil and hammer it, boil and hammer.


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## SpikeC (Jun 9, 2013)

It is impossible to damage the temper with boiling water. Most epoxy should soften around 140.


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## JBroida (Jun 9, 2013)

with epoxy, its very difficult to save the handle, and for natural woods, the boiling is not ok in the long run either


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## maxim (Jun 9, 2013)

i actually never try to boil a handle  But it may work hehe, i will dont think that it will be good for ebony :scared4: I usually just chisel handle out.


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## SpikeC (Jun 9, 2013)

I had a handle that was not quite straight so I heated it with boiling water until the epoxy softened and it came right off after I hammered on the end of the chisel that I paced on the side of the handle.


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## JBroida (Jun 9, 2013)

but a handle with that much water will be useless after... might as well just break the handle off


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## Jmadams13 (Jun 9, 2013)

What about wrapping the handle and part of the blade on layers of plastic wrap to knee it dry, just getting the heat?


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## JBroida (Jun 9, 2013)

i've done something like that before for some things, but it will also loosen the connection between the ferrule and the rest of the handle FWIW.


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## Dave Martell (Jun 9, 2013)

SpikeC said:


> I had a handle that was not quite straight so I heated it with boiling water until the epoxy softened and it came right off after I hammered on the end of the chisel that I paced on the side of the handle.




:lol2:


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## greasedbullet (Jun 10, 2013)

JBroida said:


> but it will also loosen the connection between the ferrule and the rest of the handle FWIW.



My thoughts exactly. 

Could you heat the tang of the blade somehow? Hot enough to loosen the epoxy, but not hot enough to blow the temper.


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## bathonuk (Jun 10, 2013)

Guys I've boiled Konosuke HD original magnolia/water buffalo handle and I can easily use it again. It was very hard to remove it but i did few boliing sessions.


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## ms4awd (Jun 10, 2013)

wonder if using a vac bag for sous vide and just manually removing the air and sealing it with a manual ealer instead of a chamber bag would work? Then i was thinking since epoxy should loosen at 140-145 maybe i can use one of my immersion circulators at the restaurant to get the inside heated through to loosen the epoxy. Would have to wait for construction to finish in a few months on my new restaurant before i can try that though. All my equipment is boxed and locked up in storage. Has anyone tried using a blow dryer to heat the handle? Figured if water could damge the handle maybe hot air wont.


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## daveb (Jun 10, 2013)

I know nothing about handle construction and little about epoxy. That said a "heat gun" of the type electricians use with shrink wrap will give you dry, directed air at the temps that you are looking for. Think hair dryer on steroids. In the states they can be had for less than 50 bucks.

Regards,

Dave


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## Seth (Jun 10, 2013)

Would a torch work...careful not to scorch the wood or overheat? Would the steel conduct to heat to the epoxy???? I have a serious machi issue.


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## wsfarrell (Jun 10, 2013)

oops


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## ms4awd (Jun 10, 2013)

So if i was willing to lose the handle? how would i remove it? i have another with just ho wood that i wanted to switch out but im pretty sure its epoxied or at least filled with epoxy.


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## danielomalley (Jun 10, 2013)

ms4awd said:


> So if i was willing to lose the handle? how would i remove it? i have another with just ho wood that i wanted to switch out but im pretty sure its epoxied or at least filled with epoxy.



It seems like removing the handle with water or just heat in the ways suggested above would be pretty tough without damaging the handle and potentially damaging the blade. Additionally, many folks that use epoxy do a sort of heat treating to it, where after the handle is set, it is heated gently. Once the epoxy has softened slightly from heat the first time, it doesn't do it to the same degree again. This said, assuming the epoxy wasn't sent through a heat cycle, I would recommend trying the following:

Set a 75ish watt light bulb in a smallish cabinet with the knife. Close the door. Wait 1-2 hours. This will gently heat the interior of the cabinet, not damage the handle materials and might slightly soften the epoxy. Then put the blade in a padded vise and gently tap the rear of the handle (pushing it on further) ... note that I say "gently". Once it has pushed on slightly further, it will be loose enough to pull off. Sometimes the handle will crack, but it is the best way I've come up with.

For handles that won't come off, I use an old chef's knife and cut the handle off starting at the tang and slicing toward the rear of the handle.

-daniel


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## fujiyama (Mar 22, 2016)

Reviving an old one! I'm interested in removing two ebony handles from Konosuke knives and switching them with each other. 

Are there any new ways to approach this while keeping the handle intact? Experiences welcome. 

Having read the thread my current idea is to vaccum seal the entire knife and either submerge in hot water, or possibly use a Rational oven (if you're familiar with these units they're pretty impressive).


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## jessf (Mar 22, 2016)

I had good luck with this thread. http://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/showthread.php/26176-octo-wa-handle-removal?highlight=

In the end it took a 2x4 and a few good whacks with a mallet. Mine was epoxied in but still broke loose. No damage to the handle in the end.


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## Kylej (Apr 24, 2016)

My approach is to use the 2x4 and mallet method and if the handle is stubborn or epoxied in I just hit it harder and keep hitting it. Eventually it will give out usually with no damage to the handle.


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## andur (Apr 24, 2016)

The Fujiyama handle's are epoxied in place pretty hard but a little heat will soften the glue. I heated up the blade and handle before lightly tapping the handle off.


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## Asteger (Apr 25, 2016)

I just did a glued on handle too. I'd hit it hard enough it was starting to crack, but still wouldn't budge. Then boiled it for 5 mins and knocking it off was a cinch.


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