# Giving it a try. Converting and restoring.



## Paradox (Oct 24, 2012)

I have been very inspired by the stuff you folks are up to. I decided I have to give it a try. I got myself this cool old Forgecraft Chef knife. It looked worse than it really was. I used an old Indian trick I "learnt" from a grumpy old white man on it. I wet it up with some Breakfree CLP and let it sit for a day or two then I took some scotchbrite to it and it cleaned up well. Next I'll take the handle off and make the tang so it can take a WA handle. Then I guess I'll be taking my first stab handle making. 


Any tips or advice is MORE than welcome.


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## HHH Knives (Oct 24, 2012)

WOW, that cleaned up GREAT. cool trick. 

Tips, Its almost to nice to even tear the handle off. Just oil it and use that baby!

Edit: A rehandle will only make this old blade even nicer. have fun.


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## Dave Martell (Oct 24, 2012)

Scott that came out great, so good that I'm shocked to tell you the truth. Breakfree CLP, eh?


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## Paradox (Oct 24, 2012)

Dave Martell said:


> Scott that came out great, so good that I'm shocked to tell you the truth. Breakfree CLP, eh?



Yup. Been using it on guns to remove surface rust for years, after that old fart clued me in on the trick. Just get it wet with the stuff and let sit a day or two. It gets the rust but won't hurt the blue. Then there was a lot of rubbing with scotchbrite pads (synthetic steel wool pads to be more specific). I keep it fairly wet with the CLP while rubbing it out too. I think regular steel wool would work too?


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## kalaeb (Oct 25, 2012)

Wow, that looks great. Nice job!

My only advice on the handle is have fun and take it slow.


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## steeley (Oct 25, 2012)

That look's brand new ! very cool


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## chinacats (Oct 25, 2012)

That looks awesome!


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## knyfeknerd (Oct 25, 2012)

Looks great, that's a killer clean-up job. I'd leave it alone for a while and just use it as-is! 
A new handle will be great though.


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## Mike9 (Oct 25, 2012)

Sweet - in stock form it's a great "sleeper" knife.


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## stevenStefano (Oct 25, 2012)

I'd rehandle it but stick with wood of a similar colour to the original. It looks brand new


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## Don Nguyen (Oct 25, 2012)

I say go all-out with the handle, but take your time like said above.

That's an awesome trick, and it's a great looking blade.


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## RoanRoks29 (Oct 26, 2012)

That looks awesome man!! I would say do a little practice handle and get your bearings first then work on a final handle for it!!


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## apicius9 (Oct 26, 2012)

I missed the whole Forgecraft story, but this really looks nice, great job. The handle doesn't look bad, but I would probably also try and go all the way. Of course, I still haven't made a Western handle myself, so I should probably just shut up 

Stefan


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## Paradox (Oct 26, 2012)

HELP! I want to jump in this thing in the worst way. But I want to do it right. I got the old handle off, it was easier than I thought it would be too. :cool2:

I have layed out what I think I should do to the tang. Too short? Thoughts? Also I'm thinking a one piece handle for the first try is the way to go. Thoughts? Got some blocks at Woodcraft today. Hopefully I can get one decent handle between them.


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## mhenry (Oct 26, 2012)

The steel under that old handle looks great. The tang looks a little short try to extend it past the second rivet hole. I hope you don't mind me adding a pic to your thread. Forgive me please


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## knyfeknerd (Oct 26, 2012)

What are the woods you got?
I assume you are going full-on wa with the tang you're going for?


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## Paradox (Oct 26, 2012)

Yes, full-on WA has been my goal from the start really. The dark wood is ironwood, and the lighter color one I don't know. I got it from the $3 a lb. bin at Woodcraft based on it's size more than anything else. 

mhenrey, pics are awesome! That picture is exactly why I asked this. The small cleaver conversion you did had the tang cut closer to how I layed mine out. I looked at the pictures again and it made me wonder. If you hadn't noticed I am very much running a copycat on what you did in that Forgecraft thread, I hope YOU don't mind.  Thanks!


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## mhenry (Oct 26, 2012)

I don't mind at all, its cool that you are using my thread as a guide Let me re-phrase, TRY to keep the tang as long as possible. The tang you have laid out will work fine. I just think the longer the tang the stronger the knife will be. I could be wrong though


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## Paradox (Oct 26, 2012)

The tough part for me in relation to the tang will be drilling the handle. The longer the tang the harder it will be for me to drill. The bits I have that are the proper size are fairly short.


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## Canadian (Oct 28, 2012)

Looks great, but would be a shame if you converted the handle to wa.


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## Canadian (Oct 28, 2012)

Scratch that. Looks like you already did.


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## heirkb (Oct 29, 2012)

Your tang looks angled down too much IMO. It'd make the handle be lower at the butt end than the ferrule end, unless you drill a crooked tang slot into the handle. If anything, I'd angle the tang a tiny bit up relative to the rest of the knife.

Edit: I take that back. I personally would make the center line of the tang parallel to the spine of the knife like Mike did on his.


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## Don Nguyen (Oct 29, 2012)

heirkb said:


> Your tang looks angled down too much IMO. It'd make the handle be lower at the butt end than the ferrule end, unless you drill a crooked tang slot into the handle. If anything, I'd angle the tang a tiny bit up relative to the rest of the knife.
> 
> Edit: I take that back. I personally would make the center line of the tang parallel to the spine of the knife like Mike did on his.



Good eye. I agree on getting the center line parallel with the spine (which means angling it up a bit). Should make things a bit easier down the road.


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## jklip13 (Oct 25, 2013)

that was one hell of a rust spot


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