# How to get read of rust spots on Swedish carbon steel (Misono) ?



## Bolek (May 27, 2015)

Some rust spots are on the bevel, I hope to wear them out by deep sharpening.
Does the rust eraser efficient on rust spot ? Can I use sandpaper ? Any chemical product ?


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## Bolek (May 27, 2015)

I was told to use acid as lemon juce or onions with some sugar. Is it OK with a carbon steel ?


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## ecchef (May 27, 2015)

I love my rust eraser. It will also erase the edge, so be prepared for a sharpening session.


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## MadDurrr (May 27, 2015)

I have a 3k rust eraser that works quick, clean and efficient. I'd recommend it. Haven't tried any other method as of yet


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## Bolek (May 27, 2015)

ecchef said:


> I love my rust eraser. It will also erase the edge, so be prepared for a sharpening session.


Is a rust eraser somthing like that ?

The sharpening session will be chalanging : my first asymetric doube beveled knives sharpening. At list I know the theorie (thanks Dave Martell), then I should practice.


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## Benuser (May 27, 2015)

The Misono Swedish is a bit of a special case. Normally we would suggest you to follow the existing edge. But the Misono got overly convexed by factory buffering. If you follow that you get some 35 degree inclusive edge, probably not what you're looking for. 
I would suggest you to put a straight 15 degree bevel on the left side until you feel a burr on the right side. Than sharpen a 10 degree on the right one, again until you've raised a new burr. This make take a bit of time. Than, remove the shoulder from the right bevel. That takes just a few strokes with a 2k or so. Next time you will start behind the edge as Dave describes.


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## Bolek (May 27, 2015)

Benuser said:


> The Misono Swedish is a bit of a special case. Normally we would suggest you to follow the existing edge. But the Misono got overly convexed by factory buffering. If you follow that you get some 35 degree inclusive edge, probably not what you're looking for.
> I would suggest you to put a straight 15 degree bevel on the left side until you feel a burr on the right side. Than sharpen a 10 degree on the right one, again until you've raised a new burr. This make take a bit of time. Than, remove the shoulder from the right bevel. That takes just a few strokes with a 2k or so. Next time you will start behind the edge as Dave describes.


Thanks.
Left side / righ side : loking from tip to handle ?


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## Benuser (May 27, 2015)

Right side is the one with logo.


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## Benuser (May 27, 2015)

Avoid rust by rinsing with really hot water. That helps in creating a patina that will protect against active rust.


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## Bolek (May 27, 2015)

thanks


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## Benuser (May 27, 2015)

You're most welcome.


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## larrybard (May 27, 2015)

Bolek said:


> . . . . Any chemical product ?



Is the fact that no one suggested Bar Keepers Friend mean that it probably wouldn't be effective for removing the rust stains?


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## Benuser (May 27, 2015)

I don't know that stuff, it's unknown in Europe, but from what hear it should be effective. But in Bolek's case it's less relevant as the rust spots are on the bevel and simple sharpening will solve the problem.


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## Bolek (May 28, 2015)

I have plenty of spots on the bevel for the honesuki and on the sids on all 8 knives. The one on the bevel is more a problem as it afect the cuting. I do not know Bar Keepers Friend. I read a lot on the web. What I understund : no simple way to change the rust back to steel; the rust have to be completly removed to avoid more rust. The rust can be removed with not to agressive acid (sugar helps). The eating compatible acid mostly cited are : Coca Cola, lemon juce and vinegar. I tied the lemon juce with sugar. Seams work. I'll report later.


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## daveb (May 28, 2015)

A rust eraser is my first choice for removing spots or unwanted patina. BKF is the next tool in the toolbox. It's very effective, leaves a dull matte finish and stinks like hell while in use. As Bernard noted it does not appear to be available in Europe. Very light sandpaper is another option. It's not good for "spot" cleaning and will usually require the whole blade to be lightly done.

Who said Coca-Cola was an eating compatible product?


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## pjotr (May 28, 2015)

BKF as far as I understand contains mostly oxalic acid. You should be able to buy and use a cleaning product for wheel rims or a product for cleaning the waterline on boats. Rhubarb contains quite a bit oxalic acid, might be worth a try to polish with a stem. Then make a nice pie.


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## yinro (May 28, 2015)

BKF works fine for me as long as the rust spot is not deep. They are also great for polishing stainless steel.


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## Benuser (May 28, 2015)

If the rust hasn't gone too deep -- pitting -- you may just remove it with the green side of the common scotchbrite sponge. If you rinse with really hot water you will see a grey spot developing, that's a patina. Don't worry about fine scratches. Further patina development will hide it.
Or start sharpening with a bit of thinning behind the edge. I find it hard to believe any rust spot will resist a 2k stone.


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## mark76 (May 28, 2015)

Which rust erasers have you got, guys?


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## Bolek (Jun 1, 2015)

Benuser said:


> If the rust hasn't gone too deep -- pitting -- you may just remove it with the green side of the common scotchbrite sponge. If you rinse with really hot water you will see a grey spot developing, that's a patina. Don't worry about fine scratches. Further patina development will hide it.
> Or start sharpening with a bit of thinning behind the edge. I find it hard to believe any rust spot will resist a 2k stone.


The lemon juice and vinegar do not work (or do not work fast enough as I am reluctant to let the blade in contact with acid unattended.
My green scotchbrite sponge is nor hard enough on this steel. I get reed of rust with silicon carbide sandpaper. I started with 2400 grit but was not able to go to deep but got mirror finish. Then with 1200 - not coarse enough then 600. With 600 grit I wiped out almost all rust. Then back to 1200 then to 2400. I do not fined the blades to have an even surface (too much work for such knives). So now it is fine.


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## Bolek (Jun 1, 2015)

Benuser said:


> *The Misono Swedish is a bit of a special case*. Normally we would suggest you to follow the existing edge. But the Misono got overly convexed by factory buffering. If you follow that you get some 35 degree inclusive edge, probably not what you're looking for.
> I would suggest you to put a straight 15 degree bevel on the left side until you feel a burr on the right side. Than sharpen a 10 degree on the right one, again until you've raised a new burr. This make take a bit of time. Than, remove the shoulder from the right bevel. That takes just a few strokes with a 2k or so. Next time you will start behind the edge as Dave describes.




Thanks for your suggestion. As I am right handed and to follow the general shape of the bevels I put 15° on the right side and 10° on the left side, for the 2 bevels knives ( as much as I was able to put 10° constant bevel). They are scary sharp now.
The two boning knives look single bevel. How to sharpen them ? BTW they are quite sharp OFTB for such type of Knives


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## Bolek (Jun 12, 2015)

Benuser said:


> The Misono Swedish is a bit of a special case. Normally we would suggest you to follow the existing edge. But the Misono got overly convexed by factory buffering. If you follow that you get some 35 degree inclusive edge, probably not what you're looking for.
> I would suggest you to put a straight 15 degree bevel on the left side until you feel a burr on the right side. Than sharpen a 10 degree on the right one, again until you've raised a new burr. This make take a bit of time. Than, remove the shoulder from the right bevel. That takes just a few strokes with a 2k or so. Next time you will start behind the edge as Dave describes.



What do you advice for more asymetrical knives as the honosuki ?


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## Benuser (Jun 12, 2015)

Never handled a brand new Misono honesuki. A honesuki is a sturdy blade with a more than robust edge. I would probably end with a 18 degree right side, 25 degree left, both sides very convexed.


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## Bolek (Jun 12, 2015)

Thanks


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## Benuser (Jun 12, 2015)

Bolek said:


> Thanks for your suggestion. As I am right handed and to follow the general shape of the bevels I put 15° on the right side and 10° on the left side



I would increase the angle of the left bevel to increase friction and reduce clockwise steering. That's why I suggested 10 degree on the right side, and 15 on the left, in the case of a right-biased blade.


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## stevenn21 (Aug 8, 2015)

automotive sandpaper with oil maybe?


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