# Removing scratches from the blade



## greasedbullet (Jun 6, 2013)

I have a grizzly grinder and it only has one speed, fast. Because of that I can really only use low grit belts. I have used up to 180 grit and those blow the temper really quickly, like really really quickly. So what I have started doing is using a hand sander to finish the blades, but even using low grit paper and spending hours one a side there are still some pretty deep scratches from the initial grinding. Is there any other way to finish a blade, or am I doing something wrong? Any help or advice is welcome.

Thank you.


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## AndyBillipp (Jun 6, 2013)

I've got a griz too, and it's not great but a hell of a lot better than drawfiling. That said, I cant wait till I can get a KMG.
It runs fast, so I have to be very careful, but I havent had many problems. What kind of belts are you using? I use everything from 36 grit blaze belts to 600grit trizact on mine. I usually go to 400 grit with the gator belts (great finishing belts, and super long lasting) then hand sand starting at 220. 
If your belts are worn or on the cheaper side, they are probably rubbing more than cutting, which would give you lots of heat and not much grinding.


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## Dave Martell (Jun 6, 2013)

I always wondered if it'd be possible to remove the motor from the Grizzly, relocate it, and then use step pulleys to get a 3-speed set up running. That's not variable but at least you could slow the beast down some.

As for the question, there's no way around the fact that you have to remove all scratches before moving to the next grit, just the way it is no matter what method of grinding you're using. I've found that it's important to have some great belts in the whole range and lots of them, change em up like they're free.


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## greasedbullet (Jun 6, 2013)

Alright. Thanks guys. I'll try getting some better belts, and being much more careful.


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## Don Nguyen (Jun 7, 2013)

What kind of paper are you using?

Rhynowet Redline is a pretty inexpensive paper that ranges from 80 to 2500. It's one of the best cutting and longest lasting you can get for the price. I've used it and getting rid of coarse scratches from the grinder and files doesn't take that long.

Make sure you have a strong supper under the surface you're sanding, so it doesn't flex. Are you using a hard backing surface also? If not, you should consider it. This way you aren't wasting any energy and you can really crank the pressure on there. Cutting oil really helps with the paper life.

In the end though, hand sanding will always need a lot of elbow grease. These little tips just make it more efficient.


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## wsfarrell (Jun 7, 2013)

Nice tip on the Rhynowet, thanks!


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## Don Nguyen (Jun 7, 2013)

I meant to say, "make sure you have strong support", not supper, by the way :laugh:


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## Burl Source (Jun 7, 2013)

This might help for the hand sanding part.

[video=youtube_share;u-x4wj8WC8U]http://youtu.be/u-x4wj8WC8U[/video]
[video=youtube_share;QguLGtn4eIM]http://youtu.be/QguLGtn4eIM[/video]


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## greasedbullet (Jun 7, 2013)

Perfect. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you.


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## JMJones (Jun 11, 2013)

I try to avoid using sand paper until the final grit in polishing or below 400 grit. EDM stones are really cheap and are much quicker than sand paper for removing the scratches from the grinder. Also using a 40 durometer wheel and sanding the blade from tip to choil takes out vertical scratches extremely fast. I know that is not going to do you any good on a grizzly but it may on a future three or four wheel grinder.


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