# So What's a good place to eat in Italy?



## Chef Niloc (Sep 20, 2011)

Ok so my crazy summer is coming to a very fast end, and just in time as I'm getinging married in a month. Marissa has done all the work planing her ( our) wedding. We have a place booked in Rome for from oct 24- nov 14th" the Domus Adriani" in Rome address is "Via di Pallacorda, 9 " it's by the Spanish steps 
Web sight http://www.hoteladriano.com/inglese/domus.htm

So it's my first time in Rome, anyone/ every one want to point out a few places to eat? I'm looking for the "must go to" places but also any cool little place you might know, love the little places no one knows about I.E. Non tourist traps. We will be spending a good amount of time in Rome but will also be going on "day trips" to other cities and staying in Florence for a few days. 
Thanks
Colin


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## sachem allison (Sep 20, 2011)

so I spent two weeks in Rome back when the Pope passed away. not a good time to be there. But i found that there are a lot of great places to eat in the Campo De Fiori neighborhood interesting nightlife. everyone gathers after 10 in the plaza and just hangs out and has a great time. Get to a restaurant before nine. the hours at a lot of Roman restaurants say they close at 10 or 11pm but they actually stop seating a couple hours before. There is a little tiny photo booth size porchetta shop that opens around 9 at night in the Trastevere neighborhood I don't even think it has a name. When you get to the area at night just ask anyone there for porchetta and follow your nose. everyone in the neighborhood heads out that way for a late nite snack and beer. it is amazing.

The best handmade chocolates and candies you will ever have is made by a very small husband and wife team in a place called
MORIONDO E GARIGLIO
Traditional, old-fashoned chocolate and pralines shop - all presented in personalized, exquisite packagings
Via Piè di Marmo, 21/22
The best Roman desserts at:
FORNO DEL GHETTO
Jewish pastries with marzipan and candied fruit - ricotta cakes with chocolate or sour cherries - traditional Roman cakes
Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 1 

Hopes this helps a little.

Remember taxis are not like in NYC you can't just hail a cab, you have to go to a taxi stop and wait in line for a cab. first come first serve. However if you are only two and a larger group is waiting behind you and a van pulls up they go first. cars are for smaller groups vans larger.

your wife should keep her shoulders covered if visiting a church or holy place, either long sleeves or a shawl will do. If you are together you should always be seen paying, a lot of old timers don't like uppity women and will let you know about it. There are 2 public restrooms in Rome, The bus terminal and I think the Armoury I'm not to sure I remember the second one.


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## sachem allison (Sep 20, 2011)

bread and water is not free, like in the states. too many Americans expect free stuff and are shocked they have to pay. Remember if you touch it you bought it. Be patient ordering it may take 45min to an hour to get your food. They take their time dinner is a two to three hour affair. You relax, eat ,talk and smoke, have dessert and cafe.


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## ecchef (Sep 20, 2011)

Damn it. The best rabbit I ever at was in a restaurant in Fiesole and I can't remember the name. It was within walking distance of some Etruscan ruins...

The best food I ate in Rome was pizza. But that was over 15 years ago. 

The best food (and most fun) I had in Italy was some fritto misto at a local communist party club on Murano.


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## Keith Neal (Sep 20, 2011)

If you get to Modena, the bollito misto at Danilo is a life changing experience.

In San Gimignano, the Cinghiale con polenta at Ristorante Enoteca il Castello
is a favorite.

But I enjoyed every meal in Italy. 

Her Ladyship and I will be there the latter half of October. Perhaps we will see you!

Keith


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## oivind_dahle (Sep 20, 2011)

Colin

One word: Trastevere
http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/rome/areas/trastevere.html

The food is great almost where ever you eat


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## mr drinky (Sep 20, 2011)

Like the show or not, I just watched a 2010 episode of No Reservations a couple of nights ago on Rome and there was one restaurant that they wouldn't name so it wouldn't send a flood of tourists there. After some internet searching, I found it was called Roma Sparita in Trastevere. Apparently the tagliolini al cacio e pepe is their special and quite good. I'm going there the next time I go to Rome. Maybe next year.

Here's a link that has information

k.


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## WildBoar (Sep 20, 2011)

Keith Neal said:


> In San Gimignano, the Cinghiale con polenta at Ristorante Enoteca il Castello is a favorite.
> 
> But I enjoyed every meal in Italy.


That one brought a tear to my eye, as that was the first place where I ever had cinghiale.

I will dig up the name of a place in Colle Val d'Elsa (it's a little southwest of Firenze). We ate there a couple times on my last trip and it did not disappoint.

If you think you will make it over to the Asissi area I can dig up (i.e., ask my wife to check) the names of a couple good places we ate at -- one inside the old city, and one at a small hotel a few miles to the west.

Be prepared for a great time!


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## Chef Niloc (Sep 20, 2011)

Keith Neal said:


> If you get to Modena, the bollito misto at Danilo is a life changing experience.
> 
> In San Gimignano, the Cinghiale con polenta at Ristorante Enoteca il Castello
> is a favorite.
> ...


 
Were going by our selves, weddings on the 28 th if your there you can be my best man


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## Chef Niloc (Sep 20, 2011)

WildBoar said:


> That one brought a tear to my eye, as that was the first place where I ever had cinghiale.
> 
> I will dig up the name of a place in Colle Val d'Elsa (it's a little southwest of Firenze). We ate there a couple times on my last trip and it did not disappoint.
> 
> ...


Definitely going to Asissi.


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## WildBoar (Sep 21, 2011)

Chef Niloc said:


> Definitely going to Asissi.


 
_La Villa_
_S.S. 147 Assisana, 124, __Bastia__ Umbra, 06083_
_http://www.activereservations.com/hotel/brochure/en/83715#fd_


We stayed in this place, just a few minute drive from the walled city. It looks a little 'corporate' in the interior public spaces, but has a nice exterior garden and our room had a large terrace that faced Asissi. The restaurant had a pretty good breakfast, but what really surprised us was how good the dinner was (not sure what possessed us to try it that night, vs returning to the walled city). It was very good regional cuisine. As usual I had the pasta w/ cinghiale. I think my wife had some grilled meats.
-------------------


Trattoria da Erminio
_via montecavallo,19 _
_06081 __Assisi__ (PG)_
http://www.trattoriadaerminio.it/entry.htm

The most memorable dining experience we had on out entire trip was dinner at an outside table at this trattoria inside the walled city. It did not look like much, but the setting was really nice. The adjacent building walls were lit by gas lamps, and you had the sense that any moment a few knights on horseback would come clomping down the cobblestone walkway. The food was fantastic. Their take on the cinghiale sauce differed from all others I have tried, as instead of a bolognaise consistency it was small cubes of braised shoulder in a smooth sauce largely flavored with, well, pork products :cool2: I think my wife had a mixed grill w/ some rabbit and other critters.


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## Keith Neal (Sep 21, 2011)

WildBoar said:


> That one brought a tear to my eye, as that was the first place where I ever had cinghiale."
> 
> That was the first place I had cinghiale also. I go back every year, and enjoy it more each time. Oddly enough, we have found more leather and pottery that we like in San Gimignano than anywhere else in Italy.
> 
> ...


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## bieniek (Sep 21, 2011)

every little trattoria you manage to get into with no tourists inside and staff talking italian only. 
Ask taxi drivers.


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## Chef Niloc (Oct 8, 2011)

I'm bumping this
Big day coming soon and I have to pick the place to eat for the big night.
So....
Most romantic place to eat in Rome... That must have amazing food.


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## shankster (Oct 8, 2011)

Check out the NYT Travel Section(online) "High End Dining in Italy"
Some very cool looking restaurants.....
P.S can't say how romantic they are,but some good vino and great food can't hurt


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## Chef Niloc (Oct 9, 2011)

shankster said:


> Check out the NYT Travel Section(online) "High End Dining in Italy"
> Some very cool looking restaurants.....
> P.S can't say how romantic they are,but some good vino and great food can't hurt


Thank you I will check it out


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## shankster (Oct 9, 2011)

Chef Niloc said:


> Thank you I will check it out



Sorry CN,I just noticed that none of the restaurants featured in the article are in Rome..my bad:O


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## sachem allison (Oct 9, 2011)

very romantic, local cuisine, awesome food and atmosphere, we loved it here. Very friendly family run.

Ristorante Santa Cristina al Quirinale
Via della Cordonata, 21, 00187 Rome, Italy
06 69925485 | www.ristorantesantacristinaalquirinale.it


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## shankster (Oct 9, 2011)

www.lapostavecchia.com/en an hour outside Rome

www.santaluciaristorante.it/


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## mr drinky (Oct 10, 2011)

Apparently, you can now just go to McDonald's for a Michelin 3-star hamburger.

Italian Chef Goes McDonald's

k.


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## mc2442 (Oct 10, 2011)

Enjoy, and congratulations!


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## mr drinky (Nov 26, 2011)

So where did you end up eating? And I hope everything went well.

k.


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## Chef Niloc (Nov 26, 2011)

I started a review of all the place I went to, only to become overwhelmed by the amount of writing. For a quick sum up.

Out of 36 places I can say did not have one terrible meal. Rome was a little disappointing, but only B/C I had very high expectations. Florence was very disappointing, the food was not bad, but nothing special. Assisi gets the biggest Wow, again I might have had higher expectations for Rome and Florence but at the end of the day I still know good food when I see it. all in all NY is still the best city to eat out of all the city's I have been to in the world.

Best restaurant all in all would have to go to Glass Hostaria in Rome. 
http://www.glass-restaurant.it/

I'll post more and some detailed info when I finish my wright up

There bread basket







Robella cheese W/ prosciutto ham & turnip puree






Wild bore stuffed ravioli and consume. The consume was WoW!! Crazy pure pork heaven!


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## oivind_dahle (Nov 26, 2011)

Chef Niloc said:


> NY is still the best city to eat out of all the city's I have been to in the world.



Have been to NYC and Rome several times, and can't agree 
In NYC I have had fantastic food at Jean-Georges and really a huge disappointment at Del Frisco's Grille (I was not impressed by the Bonne Soup as well).
An other thing I really hate about NYC, is that the waitress is around us all the time to make us be finished sooner. Its stressful to be in a mediocre restaurant i NYC. 

Rome on the other hand is laid-back, the waitress are often old (not only students) and they hardly interrupt your dinner. Only if you call them, they come to help.
The Italian food is great, and I didn't find one place that serves bad food in Rome. However Im visiting you Niloc on my next NYC trip, Im looking forward to dine at your place.


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## Chef Niloc (Nov 26, 2011)

Funny looking at it from a non-American view. I had herd all about " the European Survice" but never thought it could be as bad as people say. What I look at as inattentive you look at as "laid-back". The thought crossed our minds more then once " these are the laziest people in the world". Seriously I would sit there with a empty glass of wine in front of me for the entire meal. The first few days I was not sure if I was suppose to wait for a check at my table or get up and ask for it at the door...still not sure about how that works. I found it odd how a lot of places were only open from 7pm-11pm, how do they stay in business only being open 4 hours 5 days a week?


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## oivind_dahle (Nov 26, 2011)

I guess there are a huge difference between americans and europeans when coming to wining and dining 
I have no problem with poring my self a glass of wine or the guests at my table, and sometimes we sit and talk for half-hour before going into coffee and desserts. In US we get the bill before we are finished with the main course.

The waitress bring the check to your table on your command, its just that when on a restaurant in Europe you should feel comfortable. Not meet sellers, that want you to order a lot from the menu. You as customer will choose wisely and under no pressure  I find the meal itself to be better in Europe than US, due to laid-back atmosphere. 

The first real dinner I had with my GF was in Rome, we sat for 4-5 hours and saw the waitress maybe 5-6 times during our meal. Fantastic  Not to be seen, but there on a call. Not like US where there are like a guest at the table


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## JohnnyChance (Nov 27, 2011)

If they are bringing you the check while you are still eating the main course, they are doing something wrong.

None of what you are describing sounds like normal good service here in the states. And there are plenty of people here who like to relax and take their time with their meal. A good waiter/waitress will realize this and will let them dine at their own pace.


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## WildBoar (Nov 27, 2011)

Assisi rocks. Sorry dining wasn't all you had hoped, though. We like rustic more then refined, so we tend to avoid well-known restaurants and stick with trattorias. As a result we probably miss some really good dining experiences but at the same time we find some unexpected treasures.

Food aside, I hope you enjoyed the trip and saw a lot of cool places. (oh, and had a nice wedding, as well!)


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## Chef Niloc (Nov 27, 2011)

WildBoar said:


> Assisi rocks. Sorry dining wasn't all you had hoped, though. We like rustic more then refined, so we tend to avoid well-known restaurants and stick with trattorias. As a result we probably miss some really good dining experiences but at the same time we find some unexpected treasures.
> 
> Food aside, I hope you enjoyed the trip and saw a lot of cool places. (oh, and had a nice wedding, as well!)


Don't get me wrong food and dinning were great, I just commented that I think all in all NY is better. I was kind of prepared for the type of service to expect, just one of those things you don't get till you experience it firsthand. I found Oivinds comment interesting as I found the service to be inattentive and borderline neglecting, but after reading his comment I can see it both ways. I like to think of servers as part of the dinning experience.There personalities should add to the experience, not distract but also not just mindless automatons that bring you things when you ask. BTW it was only in Rome that I found the service so lax, very different sense of work ethic in the other parts of Italy I was in. By comparison I think service in the states would seem "less pushy" out side of N.Y, fast pace in NY, not that way everywhere.


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## Chef Niloc (Nov 27, 2011)

Just for fun I just took a poll in my restaurant asking the staff the top 5 things they hate about European customers. It's very funny B/C all the things they complane about fit Oivinds definition of a good meal.

1) They don't tip

2) Rudeness, specifically they "snap at you" 

3) They ignore you when you are checking on them

4) They pretend they don't here you or don't understand you.

5) They never lave, staying for hours with nothing to eat or drink, just talking...and then they don't tip.


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## oivind_dahle (Nov 28, 2011)

I can see your experience Colin 

But there are huge culture differences between europeans, norwegians tip like crazy while germans don't. However norwegians are more likely to be noisy and get drunk. Even among neighbor countries like Norway and Sweden there are huge differences. Lol at number 5  Well europeans sees the table as a meeting place, not just a place to eat  

I promis to behave and tip when Im at your place


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## WildBoar (Nov 29, 2011)

And there are huge culture differences between Americans, too!


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## WildBoar (Oct 30, 2016)

Had to unearth this thread, as I was trying to find the name of a place in Assisi. This is one of the restaurant threads that really drums up a lot of good memories for me. The sad part is many of the participants aren't around any longer. But damn, I really want to get back to Assisi and to the Tuscan countryside!


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## boomchakabowwow (Oct 30, 2016)

AutoGrills!!

super awesome stop. inexpensive food with inexpensive wine. just sayin.. you dont always need to go fancy.


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## WildBoar (Oct 31, 2016)

AutoGrills kick ass. Great paninis, good drinks, very inexpensive. Screw McDonald's.


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## boomchakabowwow (Oct 31, 2016)

WildBoar said:


> AutoGrills kick ass. Great paninis, good drinks, very inexpensive. Screw McDonald's.



driving across italy has been one of my greatest joys. (once i figured out which toll lane takes cash)

Autogrill...i stopped in one and they were spooning out Gnoochi. it was awesome with a glass of wine. i loved how the locals just had a glass and went on their drive. i bet i stopped at 10 locations!! easily the cheapest food on my trip.


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## boomchakabowwow (Oct 31, 2016)

the drive would have been perfect if i could have kicked my sister and BIl out of the moving van, TJ HOOKER style. those two idiots cant read a map to save their lives. and they bogarted the map. (since they bought it)


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## preizzo (Oct 31, 2016)

&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;&#128514;


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## preizzo (Oct 31, 2016)

BTW McDonald's own autogrill &#128521;


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## WildBoar (Nov 1, 2016)

Well then those poopheads need to redo their failing 'restaurants' here and convert them to Autogrilles. I would be a regular customer.


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## boomchakabowwow (Nov 2, 2016)

WildBoar said:


> Well then those poopheads need to redo their failing 'restaurants' here and convert them to Autogrilles. I would be a regular customer.



agreed. Autogrills is like good karma in the fast food world..

McD's owns a lot of stuff..


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