# Damascus in handles correct order of things.



## WillC (Dec 8, 2011)

I've not used damascus in a handle before. I'm guessing its best to dry assemble everything so it will fit perfectly. etch the damascus bits, then glue together leaving only the final finish and polish. Is there another way? I wonder if stabilized wood is fairly ferric proof due to the epoxy element. Or masking the wood off for etching post assembly.?


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## HHH Knives (Dec 8, 2011)

Will, I do what you first mentioned. Fit and finished then etch and neutralize B4 assembly.

I would be afraid to etch after, Because of the effects the acid may have on the rest of the handle. As well as, if some gets into areas and then doesnt get neutralized its gona cause problems later. just my 2cents Good luck and have fun!


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## WillC (Dec 8, 2011)

Sounds like a plan man. Thanks Randy. Do you ever use a temporary fix glue to hold stuff together while you shape it?


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## jmforge (Dec 8, 2011)

Will, are you sure they use epoxy to stabilize wood? That would be rather expensive to do on an "industrial" scale. Also if you shape the damascus parts to fit the handle before etching, you might want to mask off the surfaces that aren't going to show with nail polish so that they don't etch.


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## TB_London (Dec 9, 2011)

I'd temporarily glue it together, shape, dismantle and etch then reassemble. When I used to temporarily assemble wood parts I'd put a layer of grease proof paper in the glue line and use a few drops of CA on each side. A sharp knock will then separate the parts again. Etching post assembly would make me nervous, especially if it's a ferrule, as any that gets in the tang slot could cause problems. Maybe a practice run with offcuts?


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## WillC (Dec 9, 2011)

Good advice chaps, many thanks.


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## Eamon Burke (Dec 9, 2011)

Maybe take a scrap piece of a stabilized handle and etch it, see what it does?


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