# Stensils Fabricator



## Marko Tsourkan (May 7, 2012)

Looking at this one
http://www.ecemmi.com/pdf/sf200fly.jpg

Are there better options out there?

M


----------



## Rottman (May 7, 2012)

You'll need to make m-a-n-y stencils to come out cheaper than commercially made films.


----------



## Pabloz (May 7, 2012)

Marko,
If cost is no object, and you want the absolute highest quality etch, then laser cut the stensil right on the blade....that's how I do it because I did not like the results of the screen stensil method.

PZ


----------



## Marko Tsourkan (May 7, 2012)

It's hard to beat the convenience of applying your own logos, particularly when you make one knife at a time. 

Cost of laser engraving is an issue - pretty expensive if etching done in small numbers. 

Not dead set on getting a stencil fabricator, but would like to get a good idea of what's available, quality and cost.

M


----------



## Pabloz (May 7, 2012)

Then hands down Ernie makes THE BEST stensils.

http://www.erniesknives.com/


----------



## Johnny.B.Good (May 7, 2012)

Pabloz said:


> Then hands down Ernie makes THE BEST stensils.
> 
> http://www.erniesknives.com/



I see some familiar makers listed on this site (including Marko!).


----------



## Mike Davis (May 7, 2012)

I agree, Ernie was great to deal with and his stuff was top notch. Another thing that helps is a good etching solution, saltwater works, but etching solution works much better.


----------



## Pabloz (May 7, 2012)

Johnny.B.Good said:


> I see some familiar makers listed on this site (including Marko!).



OOOOPPPSSS, my bad, I didn't think to look, just figured........ Then the only other method I can think of is one that Bob Loveless did. He also put the stensil on the knife. It is described in the book on pages 45-49, How to Make Knives, by Richard W. Barney and Bob Loveless, which would probably work really well with that UV unit. 

Marko,
Let us know if you come up with something really cool and innovative.
PZ


----------



## Marko Tsourkan (May 7, 2012)

Pabloz said:


> Then hands down Ernie makes THE BEST stencils.
> 
> http://www.erniesknives.com/



Maybe it's my impression, but Ernie's stencils don't seem to stand up well to the heat. 
I am using his stencils currently and looking for a replacement. 

I was told that stencils from Electro Chemical Marking can withstand heat better. 

The problem is, every time you change a supplier or a stencils or a logo, you have to pay artist fees, and it adds up quickly. 

Having your own stencils fabricator would be ideal, but the start up cost, about $600, is pretty high. 

Paul- 
thanks for the tip, I will look that up.

M


----------



## Rottman (May 7, 2012)

I'm not 100% sure but regular silkscreens like used for silkscreen printing should work just fine as stencil. Having large sheets with plenty of stencils done shouldn't be overly expensive.
Has anybody experience with electro etching and regular silkscreen material?


----------



## Pabloz (May 7, 2012)

Rottman said:


> I'm not 100% sure but regular silkscreens like used for silkscreen printing should work just fine as stencil. Having large sheets with plenty of stencils done shouldn't be overly expensive.
> Has anybody experience with electro etching and regular silkscreen material?




Yes Sir. I have Used regular silk screen with the photo emultion and it's OK. Any of the screen stencil/ masking methods work OK. The problem is the detail. It always bleeds under the screen and then you have to re-finish the blade. When you mask the blade then laser cut the mask there is no bleeding under the masking and the detail is really crisp and clear. On most my leather knives I do the Thermark/Cermark marking and it is very durable but it is a powder coat on top of the blade and could possibly rub off. It hasn't happen to any of my knives that are out there yet....BUT???? AND then again the etching on the one Kramer that I did get to handle was all but gone just from normal wiping.

As far as the stencil burning I would take the voltage down to about 5v DC at just a couple of mA and 5 cycles at 5 seconds and let the electrolysis do the metal removal then then switch polarity to put the color. There is a ton of info on this subject at a bunch of the knife forums.


BTW...weird as hell....just after posting the link to Ernie he calls me....TOO WEIRD!!!


----------



## PierreRodrigue (May 7, 2012)

Hey Marko, have a look at this, I have the 400 model, any time I need a different size, or decide to change, or a customer needs a custom addition, I design it, print it on a transparency sheet (from any stationary store) and develop my own stencil. If they wear out, ot crack or tear, I make a new set. http://www.etch-o-matic.com/combo-kits.htm


----------



## Marko Tsourkan (May 8, 2012)

PierreRodrigue said:


> Hey Marko, have a look at this, I have the 400 model, any time I need a different size, or decide to change, or a customer needs a custom addition, I design it, print it on a transparency sheet (from any stationary store) and develop my own stencil. If they wear out, ot crack or tear, I make a new set. http://www.etch-o-matic.com/combo-kits.htm



Thanks, Pierre -
I saw that site, but it look a bit iffy, but I will give them another look.

M


----------



## Mike Davis (May 8, 2012)

PierreRodrigue said:


> Hey Marko, have a look at this, I have the 400 model, any time I need a different size, or decide to change, or a customer needs a custom addition, I design it, print it on a transparency sheet (from any stationary store) and develop my own stencil. If they wear out, ot crack or tear, I make a new set. http://www.etch-o-matic.com/combo-kits.htm



I am interested in how this works. I am a fairly artistic fella and would like to make my own custom stencils for certain projects. As of right now, i use 4 different stencils, but would like to expand and not have to pay $56 to do a set up. Is there a link on how to do this?

EDIT: nevermind....i happened to wander around the site and found it.... Looks pretty awesome, maybe i should get one of these kits...


----------



## PierreRodrigue (May 8, 2012)

Honestly, it pays for itself rather quickly. If you guys do pick one up, drop me a note, i've learned a trick or two to get a crisp stencil.


----------



## Marko Tsourkan (May 8, 2012)

PierreRodrigue said:


> Honestly, it pays for itself rather quickly. If you guys do pick one up, drop me a note, i've learned a trick or two to get a crisp stencil.



Which one of these would you recommend?


----------



## PierreRodrigue (May 8, 2012)

The 440 is more than sufficient for what we do. It will accommodate a 5" X 6" stencil. There is some glass etching stuff in there as well, in case you need to put a logo on a beer tankard! Order the larger bottle of developer. You will be glad you did.


----------



## Mike Davis (May 9, 2012)

Awesome, i think i am going to go for this soon...Need to get a few more knives done lol. Thanks for the advice!!!


----------



## David Metzger (May 9, 2012)

Is it pretty much a light box with a lid and timer? I wonder if it would be easy to make? I made my own etcher and it works great.


----------



## PierreRodrigue (May 9, 2012)

It uses an ultraviolet light, but I don't see why someone crafty couldn't do it. It uses a piece of glass to let the light through, and keep the artwork tight to the stencil material. I'm not sure if you would save a lot of money, some yes, but for me it was a mater of simplicity. Buy one, and not waste the time building one that might work.


----------



## David Metzger (May 9, 2012)

Thanks Pierre, My time isn't to valuable so I often make things or repair things. I don't need one right now but I would like one in a year or so.


----------



## StephanFowler (May 11, 2012)

Marko Tsourkan said:


> Maybe it's my impression, but Ernie's stencils don't seem to stand up well to the heat.
> 
> M



there shouldn't be a whole lot of heat involved. how long are you going between degaussing?


----------

