# Quest for the perfect in-hand paring knife



## spaceconvoy (Nov 9, 2020)

Most knife types have enough selection to find exactly what I want, but I've been frustrated by paring knives for a while now. Here's a comparison of the ones I've tried, maybe it'll save someone else some time and money. First I should explain my preferences so we're on the same page.

My ideal blade length is around 80mm, which puts my thumb comfortably at the tip without stretching, but I can live with the more typical 90mm. I want the knife to be as light as possible, giving a scalpel-like feeling of control when used in-hand. I'm bothered by exposed heels and handles without a thumb ridge/bolster to keep your hand from slipping up the blade. The tip should be as pointy as possible and centered along the axis of the knife, so coring isn't awkwardly angled.









This is a bit subtle, but notice the angle of my thumb, comparing the Shun classic on top to the Herder K1 below. The Shun feels natural, while the Herder forces my thumb to be awkwardly extended. The Herder's lower tip is half of the problem, but the other half is the curved handle. I've found I prefer straight handles, because curved or angled ones shift the axis of the knife relative to your grip.




Here are some notes on the ones I've bought this past year, from left to right:

Messermeister Olivia - I like the comfort of the partial bolster, but the handle is overall disappointing. The sloped angle below the bolster combined with its unexpected heaviness makes it awkward for in-hand work. It's also terribly thick behind the edge, like an axe.

Herder K1 stainless - You can see from the rust spots it's not particularly stainless, which is good in terms of steel though not what I was expecting. The grind is awesomely thin, but that's where my praise ends. Despite soaking it in camellia oil, the handle developed a gap at the heel and the pins feel sunken now. Maybe one of their denser woods wouldn't be so bad, but this "ice birch" is trash. The combination of low tip and angled handle makes it the most awkward for thumb position. I should have bought the K1M but wanted to try this type of tip, and the K1M tip isn't pointy enough to begin with.

Le Sabot carbon - I like this blade a lot, just as thin behind the edge as the Herder but with a narrower pointy tip and more ideal length at 84mm. The wood is stabilized and seems impervious to water, but the density makes it a bit too handle-heavy. Its smooth finish and the narrow, almost circular cross-section of the handle combine to give it the annoying tendency to roll around in your grip. And the exposed heel puts the nail in the coffin for me, which is a real shame given how much I like the blade.

Le Sabot stainless - The edge is just a thin as the carbon, and the handle is nicely lightweight with a good surface texture for grip. That's not a weird reflection, the geometry of the blade really is a bit wonky, seems like it was made in a different factory. Really wish it had some type of bolster or thumb ridge, and the pins weren't annoyingly raised. I haven't sharpened it but I suspect the steel isn't very good either.

Opinel Parallele - In terms of length, weight, and balance, this is the ideal in-hand paring knife for me. Unfortunately the blade ruins it, very thick behind the edge and garbage X50-type steel. You can see I started thinning it, hoping to overcome its shortcomings, but the steel makes me feel it's not worth the effort. Such a perfect handle though.

Shun classic - So many people recommend this I had to try it despite my misgivings, but I should have trusted my gut. The blade is too big for an in-hand knife, and the handle is extremely heavy. You can't remove the end-cap because it's part of the fastening system for the tang, I tried. I can see this being a nice small paring knife for board work, but it's a no for me dawg.

Solution:




I was so annoyed by each knife's shortcomings that I decided DIY was the only option - combining the perfect blade of the Le Sabot carbon with the perfect handle of the Opinel Parallele. Everything about it is awesome, and totally worth the effort.

This is a work in progress and I still have to decide how to finish the "pins." The steel was easy enough to dremel when dealing with the tang, but my drill bits aren't working on it. It's so small and lightweight I'm tempted to just fill the holes with more JB Weld and call it a day, since it'll live in a drawer.

If you've made it this far, thanks for reading, and may all your ideal-knife dreams come true.


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## Ericfg (Nov 9, 2020)

spaceconvoy said:


> The tip should be as pointy as possible and centered along the axis of the knife,


Yep. 'Spear Point' is optimal as far as functionality goes. IMHO
I don't get 'Sheep's Foot' profiles. I've had one for years and use it _very_ infrequently.
The 'Bird's Beak' shape I will use for peeling but it is very hard to sharpen without a lot of attention.


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## Kippington (Nov 9, 2020)

I wonder if a spine like this would make the knife any more comfortable in that hold?


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## McMan (Nov 9, 2020)

Kippington said:


> I wonder if a spine like this would make the knife any more comfortable in that hold?


This one's comfy. Old design (20s).


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## Kippington (Nov 9, 2020)

Interesting, you'd think that the rise is too far forward to make much of a difference on that example. I rounded mine over due to the finger proximity, but they didn't seem to need to in that design.


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## Tag302 (Nov 9, 2020)

This post was very helpful! I too am looking for a good paring knife!


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## spaceconvoy (Nov 9, 2020)

Kippington said:


> I wonder if a spine like this would make the knife any more comfortable in that hold?


Interesting idea, I see where you're going with this. I think you've observed how the index finger typically hangs loose apart from the others, used for stability against the product. The lump could be helpful, but I see two issues: The neck seems too narrow to me, and I've found I prefer having a wider area to grip, like the Opinel. Also, I've noticed I tend to angle my grip to bring the tip further up and shorten the length my thumb has to extend. I'd shift the middle finger divot on the top of the spine slightly towards the tip, instead of symmetrical like you have it now. 







The top photo is my natural grip, the lower photo is me trying to grip the handle perpendicular to the spine, and you can see how that forces my thumb to extend further.


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## Michi (Nov 11, 2020)

The most important thing to me in a paring knife is that it must not have an exposed heel. With a heel, I'm at risk of cutting myself every time I choke down on the knife or move the blade towards my palm, such as when peeling an apple.

I posted about this previously here. That Wüsthof paring knife is still in my favourites list. No nasty heel to get in the way, and easy and safe to choke down on.

I'm also really fond of this tourné knife, which I find myself using several times a week.


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## NO ChoP! (Nov 12, 2020)

My favorite parers are the ZKramer and the Hattori Forum. The HHH always caught my eye, just haven't been lucky enough to snag one.


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## DavidPF (Dec 30, 2020)

When the topic is a chef's knife on a cutting board, it's usually fairly simple for an expert to make an objective and useful analysis or critique of someone's techniques and methods - in short, with a chef's knife, "You're doing it wrong, that's why you don't like your knife" is a possibility. I think that possibility pretty much goes out the window with paring knives. So many little details matter with paring knives - palm width, angle of thumb-spread, length of each individual finger, blah blah blah... along with habits developed with the first few paring knives the person got familiar with - it's a good thing there are so many different sizes and styles of paring knives, because it seems like a theoretical impossibility for everyone to agree on which one works best.


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## Jovidah (Dec 30, 2020)

Only see this now but it's funny to see someone shared my 'problem' of finding a paring knife that doesn't really suck. I haven't really come to a satisfactory (and affordable) solution either.

-Regarding the Herder; I agree the mittelspitz are more convenient. You could consider getting the cheap 'standard' mittlel spitz (not from the K-series) to tryu that out. It should be about your size and in its original state it doesn't have an exposed heel. Handle is a bit on the thin side for my taste though, and the steel of the cheaper line is nothing fancy.
And sadly I just noticed today that my own K5 is starting to develop the same issue at the heel with the wood developing a gap. I think it's safe to say that it's basically a design flaw. There's no bolster of any kind, and the small potruding part of wood is just asking for trouble. Even after dunking the whole handle in a can of mineral oil overnight and trying to spare it while washing the knife, I'm still getting this problem within about a month of using it. It's ridiculous.

-With the Opinel I had hte same dissapointment in how thick it was. The strange thing is that their folding knives are actually ground much better. Far thinner behind the edge. I had expected much better... it wouldn't surprise me if they outsourced them.

-I have mixed feelings about the Wusthof mentioned before; I like the handles since there's a bit more to hang on to, but compared to a Robert Herder they're still on the fat side.

-In general I agree that while sheepsfoot blades might be nice for peeling they're just not as universally useful. Good luck coring anything with them. 

Personally I just wished Robert Herder got their act together on the handles. They have great blades, but the handles are definitly a weakpoint with room for improvement.


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## spaceconvoy (Dec 30, 2020)

Since I switched to stainless I went back and ordered another Opinel Parallele. Yes, they're outsourced to a factory in Portugal according to the box. This one seemed to be thinner behind the edge, but still not great. Only took about fifteen minutes on 120 grit sandpaper to get it to where I want. We tend to obsess about grinds here, but that's actually one of the easiest things to change about a knife.


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## GBT-Splint (Dec 30, 2020)

spaceconvoy said:


> My ideal blade length is around 80mm, which puts my thumb comfortably at the tip without stretching, but I can live with the more typical 90mm. I want the knife to be as light as possible, giving a scalpel-like feeling of control when used in-hand. I'm bothered by exposed heels and handles without a thumb ridge/bolster to keep your hand from slipping up the blade. The tip should be as pointy as possible and centered along the axis of the knife, so coring isn't awkwardly angled.



I like my blade for in hand work to be exactly like that, very thin, beak or very straight and pointy are both acceptable to me, don't like exposed heels either but I'd rather have a heel on a sharp and thin knife than the opposite.

Have you ever considered a smaller blade ? 
if so, this knife has been a revelation for me and I've done a LOT of hand work,
Misono Molybdenum Peeling 50mm (2")
it is thin and precise feels soo good to work with it, I have one of those that I modified to a pointy tip and another is still a beak. love them

If you are interested in 90mm this looks very good, I will probably order it soon. Does have a heel but on a knife this cheap I wouldn't mind fixing this myself I am sure the result would be great.
GESSHIN 90MM PARING KNIFE


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## DavidPF (Dec 30, 2020)

Jovidah said:


> ... it's funny to see someone shared my 'problem' of finding a paring knife that doesn't really suck. ...


I'd venture to guess that there are hundreds of paring knives that you'd be forced to admit are nice enough knives (i.e. ones that are good enough quality not junk). Just that too few of them are the shape and size to work the way you'd like them to work. (Add to that the fact that many people seem to find their "paring knife soul mate" in a cheap piece of junk, because all the nice ones were the wrong size or shape.)

I have small hands, plus nobody will ever be paying me to cook, so I often just give up and find a solution that doesn't involve a paring knife.


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## daveb (Dec 31, 2020)

The Shun parer you've pictured is the Shun Premier. I found it to be a pig. The oft recommended Classic is this one:

Shun Classic Limited Edition Try Me Paring

You may not like it any better but I do.

If you're going for $100+ parer, the most available "good" one is a Harner. I like Del's parer but don't know that he's making them anymore and they go fast on the bst market. Best ever in hand parer (to me) is Randy's Wharncliff (sp?).


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## Jovidah (Dec 31, 2020)

DavidPF said:


> I'd venture to guess that there are hundreds of paring knives that you'd be forced to admit are nice enough knives (i.e. ones that are good enough quality not junk). Just that too few of them are the shape and size to work the way you'd like them to work. (Add to that the fact that many people seem to find their "paring knife soul mate" in a cheap piece of junk, because all the nice ones were the wrong size or shape.)
> 
> I have small hands, plus nobody will ever be paying me to cook, so I often just give up and find a solution that doesn't involve a paring knife.


I probably overstated it by saying they suck, but it's just that anything on the lower end of the budget scale usually left me unsatisfied on at least 1 aspect. Herders have great nice thin blades but the handles suck. Most typical western stuff has nice handles but is too thick behind the edge. I'm sure there's probably some 'perfect' ones out there, but a lot of them go for far more than I'm willing to spend on a knife that I frankly don't use all that much. I peel with a speed peeler and 90% of the time I do almost all prep with just a gyuto. 
Considering the dissapointments on the lower end of the price scale I would be willing to pay a bit more, but I'm rather hesitant to continue this trial-and-error process in a higher budget range. Especially when a lot of them, at least on pictures, already look too thick and overbuilt to 'work'.

Hand size is probably my main problem. If I had smaller hands I probably wouldn't be complaining so much about the handles on the cheap Herders being on the small side. What does kind of surprise me is how Wüsthof tends to win the majority of those 'consumer test' type of things. I like the handles and they're not bad, but when it comes to cutting performance I'm not exactly overwhelmed by them. Feels like most of those testers never held a thin knife in their life.


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## spaceconvoy (Dec 31, 2020)

daveb said:


> The Shun parer you've pictured is the Shun Premier. I found it to be a pig. The oft recommended Classic is this one:
> 
> Shun Classic Limited Edition Try Me Paring
> 
> ...






It's a classic Shun with a blonde handle, and I like the balance a lot more since I took off the metal endcap. Also looks nicer after removing the labels and refinishing with sandpaper to reduce the visibility of the cladding layers. But now I realize the round handle is a problem for me, feels like I can't get a good grip on it when doing in-hand work. I'm going to try a Nogent-style stainless Sabatier next, which should have the blade-heavy balance and rectangular handle cross-section I'm looking for.


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## stevenStefano (Dec 31, 2020)

I know Global knives aren't exactly highly regarded round here but I've used a Global parer for years. This is about the only example where the handle design is actually useful, the knife fits in your hand really snugly as the handle is so slender


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## Barry's Knives (Dec 31, 2020)

Sabatier could be a good solution. Nice handles, carbon steel and with the heel guard to keep your fingers safe. Its also available in 80mm








Sabatier Paring Knife 3 inch Carbon Steel Red Stamina Handle


This is a 3inch/8cm Sabatier paring knife from our Traditional Forged Range with a carbon steel blade and beautiful red stamina handle.




www.sabatierknivesuk.co.uk


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## spaceconvoy (Dec 31, 2020)

Nogent 8 cm Stainless Steel Paring Knife with Ebony Handle


A classic stainless steel French paring knife is crafted in Thiers, the historic center of French blade making by Thiers Issard, a company with over 125 years of blade making experience. The Nogent name refers to the unique construction of this lightweight and useful paring knife.




www.flotsamandfork.com




I was thinking this one


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## Barry's Knives (Dec 31, 2020)

Barry's Knives said:


> Sabatier could be a good solution. Nice handles, carbon steel and with the heel guard to keep your fingers safe. Its also available in 80mm
> 
> 
> 
> ...


or this even:





Paring Knife 2 3/4 in - Carbon Steel - Olive Wood Handle : professional kitchen knife series Vintage Carbon Olive Wood - Sabatier K


Cutlery industry of Thiers for 200 years, the Sabatier K firm produces 100% forged knives : kitchen knives, table or office knives forged in one piece. Discover the Sabatier K pocket knives and home accessories as well.




www.sabatier-shop.com


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## daveb (Dec 31, 2020)

spaceconvoy said:


> It's a classic Shun with a blonde handle, and I like the balance a lot more since I took off the metal endcap. Also looks nicer after removing the labels and refinishing with sandpaper to reduce the visibility of the cladding layers. But now I realize the round handle is a problem for me, feels like I can't get a good grip on it when doing in-hand work.



Okay. Not seen one with a blonde handle before. A good part of the reason the classic "Classic" works for me is the "D" handle on it. Just noticed you're in Fl - let me know if you would like to try one of the one's mentioned above. I've toyed with a Nogent for awhile but have not gotten around to one.


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## big D (Jan 14, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> Most knife types have enough selection to find exactly what I want, but I've been frustrated by paring knives for a while now. Here's a comparison of the ones I've tried, maybe it'll save someone else some time and money. First I should explain my preferences so we're on the same page.
> 
> My ideal blade length is around 80mm, which puts my thumb comfortably at the tip without stretching, but I can live with the more typical 90mm. I want the knife to be as light as possible, giving a scalpel-like feeling of control when used in-hand. I'm bothered by exposed heels and handles without a thumb ridge/bolster to keep your hand from slipping up the blade. The tip should be as pointy as possible and centered along the axis of the knife, so coring isn't awkwardly angled.
> View attachment 102287
> ...



I would suggest trying a cobalt drill bit. I do not know if this will work for carbon but I have had to drill stainless which is a pain. Though the cobalt is better, I have used just a normal bit also. First you need lots of cutting oil both on the bit and in the hole. Heat is your enemy for drilling. For stainless, very very slow drill speed with high pressure. When the combo is right, you will see spirals of steel coming out. Make sure the bit is sunk deep into the drill so the bit is stiffer and less prone to snapping. Be careful at the very end because often the bit will grab and lock as it starts to go through the metal. As such your work piece needs to be clamped well, and you will have to futz a bit with speed and pressure to get through the last bit. As I said, I do not know if this will work on the carbon. You could always drop in on one of the knife making forums and ask also. Remember, drill just a bit then oil oil oil.
Edited - wear safety glasses
Good luck,
D.


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## Eloh (Jan 14, 2021)

Wow, you are really picky lol. I personally like the wüsthoff ikon with a thinned blade. I have big hands and the handle is super comfy for a parer imo. My fav at work.
These small knives are thinned pretty fast, too, so I wouldn't worry too much if you are fine with putting in 30 min of work on the stones.


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## JASinIL2006 (Jan 14, 2021)

I really like the shape of this paring knife, especially the relieved choil.









Buy ZWILLING Bob Kramer Meiji Paring knife | ZWILLING.COM


ZWILLING Bob Kramer Meiji 4-inch, Paring knife ►Free shipping on orders above $59 ✓ Order now directly from the manufacturer✓




www.zwilling.com


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## gregfisk (Jan 14, 2021)

I’ve been making a few paring knives for gifts the last couple of months. The handles are tapered and are an oval but it’s hard to tell from the pictures.


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## JASinIL2006 (Jan 14, 2021)

gregfisk said:


> I’ve been making a few paring knives for gifts the last couple of months. The handles are tapered and are an oval but it’s hard to tell from the pictures. View attachment 110055
> View attachment 110056



Wow! Those are gorgeous!


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## Taz575 (Jan 15, 2021)

What about something like this? Its a little longer blade wise, but should be able to be trimmed down. 1095 carbon steel.


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## gregfisk (Jan 15, 2021)

Thanks JAS, I just started making this style of handle. I was reading the original post from the OP and wondering how many boxes this paring knife would check. No bolster so no check for that box. The blade is very thin, especially on the lower pictured knife. I used 1/16” thick 1095 and pushed it to about 63rc so the steel is pretty hard. The handle is pretty light since it’s mostly wood but heavier than an all wood handle. The tip is basically centered on the blade although I didn’t do that on purpose. One thing I do on all my knives is round over the spine. I find that especially useful on a paring knife, much more comfortable to use. I don’t think that was one of the boxes though.


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## spaceconvoy (Jan 15, 2021)

Eloh said:


> Wow, you are really picky lol.


Generally yes  but most people here are pickier about their gyutos. I'm just picky about all my knives (and headphones, and guitars, and...)


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## cotedupy (Jan 17, 2021)

Interesting thread!

I've found similar with my Opinel inox paring knife (I think it's a smidge longer than yours). It's ok, but slightly disappointing when compared to how good the carbon pocket knives are. TBH if I needed a paring knife I'd be tempted to get a folding Carbone Opinel no. 6 or 7.


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## DavidPF (Jan 17, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> We tend to obsess about grinds here, but that's actually one of the easiest things to change about a knife.


Doesn't that depend on the grind? (Both the old one and the new one?)

I think your idea is right for small blades, maybe not always for larger ones.


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## DavidPF (Jan 17, 2021)

cotedupy said:


> ... TBH if I needed a paring knife I'd be tempted to get a folding Carbone Opinel no. 6 or 7.


Folding kitchen knives ... the final frontier ...


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## Chuckles (Jan 17, 2021)

Paring knives can for sure be very personal. At least you know what you are looking for. I like paring knives quite a bit. For your preferences I think that the LaSeur in a smaller size would fit the bill nicely. What do you think of that one from a design perspective?










Edit: group pic left to right:

Sakai yusuke, LaSeur, Wustoff, Harner, Ealy, Marko, Rader


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## childermass (Jan 17, 2021)

Chuckles said:


> View attachment 110384


Nice collection of shorts here 
What’s the one to the far left?


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## DT74 (Jan 17, 2021)

Cool thread!


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## HumbleHomeCook (Jan 17, 2021)

I don't own one of these so can't give firsthand experience but I've always thought the Yaxell pairing knives looked like good designs. Not sure about thickness. I have a Yaxell gyuto and it is well made.

Here is one of the lesser expensive models: Yaxell Mon Paring Knife, 3.25" | Cutlery and More


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## spaceconvoy (Aug 16, 2021)

I have been a damn fool... I ignored bird's beak paring knives for so long, using the logic of "they're too difficult to sharpen" as cover for my illogical dislike of their ugliness. I would have kept ignoring it if I hadn't needed to spend $10 to get free shipping. Turns out (ha!) they are the perfect in-hand paring knife - who knew? Well, the French for over a hundred years, but still.

The shorter length plus the angle of the blade makes it easier to reach the tip with your thumb. The narrowness of the tip plus the inward curve creates a much smoother cut when coring strawberries or eyeing potatoes. And the curved blade makes cutting stuff like cucumbers against your thumb so much better. Haven't tried peeling garlic or onions with it yet, but others praise it for those tasks too.

The blade is from the basic Opinel 114 model that I swapped with my favorite Parallele handle. I do think having some type of finger ridge helps give better control. And I actually like the ricasso, how it protects the handle from getting scuffed while sharpening. But it's a bit thick behind the edge and the steel is crummy... starting to feel like another Herder is in my future.

Now that I understand how useful it is the shape is starting to grow on me.


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## Jovidah (Aug 24, 2021)

Since I've had this same reason to completely disregard all birdsbeak-knives, what IS the way to sharpen them? Is there any easy solution?

My first thought was 'this is just begging for a Massdrop', but the more I look into it, the more I realize that different people have diametrically opposed desires when it comes to paring knives. At this point I'm still trying to figure out my own way through this... and I'm starting to wonder if you might not want to split it up into more different knives. Specifically to get something really short just for coring stuff, at which point you gain a lot more flexibility on your 'second' in-hand knife when it comes to length / profile.


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## Qapla' (Aug 24, 2021)

Jovidah said:


> Since I've had this same reason to completely disregard all birdsbeak-knives, what IS the way to sharpen them? Is there any easy solution?



Here's one possibility:








Naniwa Gouken Curved Water Stone


A Water Stone for Curved Blades Water Stones have become a favorite of sharpeners in search of the best edges. But previously, sharpeners working with curved edges like those found on pruning shears, florist's and grafting knives, and hawksbill knives have had to work mostly with flat stones...



www.sharpeningsupplies.com





For another idea, I wonder if these are a case where abrasive-sharpening-rods are valid?


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## HumbleHomeCook (Aug 24, 2021)

Jovidah said:


> Since I've had this same reason to completely disregard all birdsbeak-knives, what IS the way to sharpen them? Is there any easy solution?
> 
> My first thought was 'this is just begging for a Massdrop', but the more I look into it, the more I realize that different people have diametrically opposed desires when it comes to paring knives. At this point I'm still trying to figure out my own way through this... and I'm starting to wonder if you might not want to split it up into more different knives. Specifically to get something really short just for coring stuff, at which point you gain a lot more flexibility on your 'second' in-hand knife when it comes to length / profile.



You can use the long edge "corner" of a stone.

Sandpaper around a dowel is also common.


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## Steampunk (Aug 24, 2021)

Sandpaper on a dowel and stropping compounds are ways to get recurve-profiles 'sorta sharp', but they typically lack bite, and at some point these methods lose their ability to bring the edge fully back on their own. 

Contouring the edge of one of your stones, taking edge trailing strokes, and then stropping with compounds works well. As do edge-leading strokes on round/oval ceramic/ruby/diamond-plated honing rods, India slipstones, scythe stones, and grooved sharpening steels, providing the blade is sufficiently thinned behind the edge that these can still generate a burr/cut in a new apex. You need something hard to set that bevel, and I've not found a way to deburr/sufficiently refine such weirdly shaped blades without compounds on contoured strops quickly/reliably. Edge-leading strokes on very large, very hard, very fine slip or scythe stones (Like Translucent Arkansas) can sometimes do the trick, but it's slow, fiddly, and not guaranteed to work on all steels. Stropping on compounds tends to be a more reliable finishing technique for these blades. 

You can thin them using coarser sandpaper over a compressible backing, like a wet piece of t-shirt rag, around a dowel or - better yet - oval piece of moulding. This will convex the grind up to the apex. You'll then need to cut in a bevel using a harder stone/rod, before stropping it, to get the edge desired. 

Thin with sandpaper on a contourable media, bevel set on an unforgiving media, refine/zero-convex the apex on a relatively fine sandpaper (1000-2000 grit) over a contourable base, and then strop on compound. Great edge. Skip that bevel setting phase on a hard rod/stone corner, and it won't be that sharp at the end.

Periodically sharpening the spine-side of the tip, to crisp it up, also helps tip penetration for birds-beak parers. Think of them like Karambits. Keep them almost zero-thinned like scythes, but with more attention to the tip. You need them thin.

That said, I still avoid birds-beak parers like the plague. They can work for some cutting techniques, but are so difficult and frustrating to maintain geometrically and just in terms of basic sharpness, whatever they can do that more conventional blade shapes cannot virtually isn't worth it to me. 

If you do get one, get a Robert Herder.


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## Ericfg (Aug 25, 2021)

Here's a very cool Ebay purchase that was delivered today. Lots of different profiles to choose from. A couple recognizable items here.
Anything tickle your fancy?
.


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## coxhaus (Aug 25, 2021)

Here are my paring knives in my knife blocks. I am trying to come around to the bottom one. I made my apple tart using it. I cut the apples in half and cored 5 apples for the tart. It seems long but I can choke up on it well. The top 3 are Wusthof Classic knives. The bottom 4 are Henckels with the top 3 4star and the bottom 1 is a 5star


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## Ericfg (Aug 25, 2021)

coxhaus said:


> the bottom 1 is a 5 star.


As much as I like Henx I could never warm to that handle shape. How's it fit in hand?
Those others look like they've seen a lot of work.


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## coxhaus (Aug 25, 2021)

Ericfg said:


> As much as I like Henx I could never warm to that handle shape. How's it fit in hand?
> Those others look like they've seen a lot of work.



It looks funny so I have never used it much but lately I have been warming up to it. It seems comfortable the more I use it. It may be the blade shape.


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## Jovidah (Aug 25, 2021)

For a paring knife the shape might work? My main complaint about paring knives in general is that I usually find the handles too anemic. Sure it might look prettier when the handles are more proportional, but it's not necessarily ergonomical when you don't have tiny girlyhands.


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## Ericfg (Aug 25, 2021)

Jovidah said:


> For a paring knife the shape might work? My main complaint about paring knives in general is that I usually find the handles too anemic. Sure it might look prettier when the handles are more proportional, but it's not necessarily ergonomical when you don't have tiny girlyhands.


I'm finding that of the 14 paring knives I just got that I prefer the smaller handle. And up by the neck/bolster(whether there is a bolster or not) I'm leaning towards a lower heel. I mean that the heel of the blade should stick out below (towards the board/thumb) the handle.


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## gregfisk (Aug 26, 2021)

I recently made this paring knife as an experiment to see how we liked using it. My wife and I both really like how well it works for peeling different fruits and vegetables. I made this on a 10” contact wheel and ground it very thin at the edge. We also like the shape of the tip although I’d like to try some different shapes.


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## Jovidah (Aug 26, 2021)

Ericfg said:


> I'm finding that of the 14 paring knives I just got that I prefer the smaller handle. And up by the neck/bolster(whether there is a bolster or not) I'm leaning towards a lower heel. I mean that the heel of the blade should stick out below (towards the board/thumb) the handle.


I agree on the lower heel; makes sharpening so much easier. But I know there's plenty of people who fundamentally disagree with that... Just like on the hand size thing.

@gregfisk that thing looks awesome!


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## demcav (Aug 27, 2021)

Ericfg said:


> Anything tickle your fancy?


That's quite an assortment, a bit of everything in parers! One up from the bottom on the left looks like it would fit comfortably for in-hand peeling of fruit.


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## riba (Aug 27, 2021)

Qapla' said:


> For another idea, I wonder if these are a case where abrasive-sharpening-rods are valid?


I use a tapered diamond rod for serations, that works ok


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## Ericfg (Aug 27, 2021)

Jovidah said:


> I agree on the lower heel; makes sharpening so much easier.


That it does. But I like it because the edge is closer to the product that is in one's hand.


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## Ericfg (Aug 27, 2021)

demcav said:


> One up from the bottom on the left looks like it would fit comfortably for in-hand peeling of fruit.


That one was very weird to ID. I now think it's a Sabatier, an unmarked-at-all Sab, oyster knife. You can't see it from my one image but the handle is really thick. The blade is really pointy though, and sharpened on both sides no less! I do tend to like that spear/middle point for hand work.


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## McMan (Aug 27, 2021)

Ericfg said:


> Here's a very cool Ebay purchase that was delivered today. Lots of different profiles to choose from. A couple recognizable items here.
> Anything tickle your fancy?
> .
> View attachment 139327


I like that one with the upside-down handle.




Time to eat your mushrooms...


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## spaceconvoy (Aug 27, 2021)

Collection update. The more I use it the more I love the bird's beak for in-hand work. Still hate the way it looks on my knife rack next to all the 'normal' knives, but it's just too useful.

And coming to accept that I like having a second paring knife for board work too. It's nice to have something small I can use to mince garlic on the corner of a cluttered cutting board at the last minute. Leaning towards the bolstered Tojiro clone for its super flat edge.


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## spaceconvoy (Aug 27, 2021)

From the video HumbleHomeCook posted in the Youtube AWESOME! thread. Looks like Jacques Pépin uses an Opinel bird's beak too.


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## mc2442 (Aug 27, 2021)

For in hand work a short, stubby Ealy is my go to. Right about 70mm on the edge I believe.


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## gregfisk (Aug 27, 2021)

mc2442 said:


> For in hand work a short, stubby Ealy is my go to. Right about 70mm on the edge I believe.
> 
> View attachment 139692


I really like the look of this, very elegant.


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## Jovidah (Aug 28, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> View attachment 139670
> 
> From the video HumbleHomeCook posted in the Youtube AWESOME! thread. Looks like Jacques Pépin uses an Opinel bird's beak too.


In his own words he has about 300 knives, so there's probably fairly little he _doesn't_ use...


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## coxhaus (Aug 28, 2021)

I tried using a wider longer knife for making my apple tart and I broke the corner out on the apple coring it. So, I need a narrow paring knife. Wide will not work for me. These are small green apples.


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## icanhaschzbrgr (Aug 29, 2021)

I'm down to 3 paring knives. Non of them feels comfortable for in hand work. To me nothing can beat Victorinox bird beak (they are cheap eneough so that you just buy new one instead of sharpening old one). Yet I don't cut in hand.
On the board these knives are used with hammer grip and I prefer one on the left. Middle one has a bit too thin handle and is ground a bit thicker. But also cut well. I almost never use Harner as it's even thicker ground and handle isn't compatible with my hands.


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## gregfisk (Aug 29, 2021)

icanhaschzbrgr said:


> View attachment 139908
> 
> 
> I'm down to 3 paring knives. Non of them feels comfortable for in hand work. To me nothing can beat Victorinox bird beak (they are cheap eneough so that you just buy new one instead of sharpening old one). Yet I don't cut in hand.
> On the board these knives are used with hammer grip and I prefer one on the left. Middle one has a bit too thin handle and is ground a bit thicker. But also cut well. I almost never use Harner as it's even thicker ground and handle isn't compatible with my hands.


They sure are nice looking though.


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## memorael (Aug 29, 2021)

I think the opinels are the best shape but the material sucks. I really like what op did.


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## M1k3 (Aug 30, 2021)

I just bought the Victorinox birds beek. We'll see if I like the shape also. And if sharpening it is hard or not.


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## Ericfg (Sep 1, 2021)

icanhaschzbrgr said:


> To me nothing can beat Victorinox bird beak (they are cheap enough so that you just buy new one instead of sharpening old one). Yet I don't cut in hand.


You use a bird's beak/tourne on your board?


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## ian (Sep 1, 2021)

Yea, how does that work?


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## HumbleHomeCook (Sep 1, 2021)

Bernal just posted this as their knife of the week:


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## M1k3 (Sep 1, 2021)

Ericfg said:


> You use a bird's beak/tourne on your board?





ian said:


> Yea, how does that work?


Awkwardly.


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## ian (Sep 1, 2021)




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## M1k3 (Sep 1, 2021)

ian said:


> View attachment 140497


It'll buff out.


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## IsoJ (Sep 2, 2021)

ian said:


> View attachment 140497


Keep on honing


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## Jovidah (Sep 2, 2021)

HumbleHomeCook said:


> Bernal just posted this as their knife of the week:



For the record, windmühlenmesser = Robert Herder. Those also come in carbon versions and mittelspitz (center-tip instead of sheepsfoot) variants. Steel is very unremarkable, and the handles are rather anemic, but they are really nicely thinned out. Cuts circles around most of the other affordable crap. Think 'cheapest paring laser you can buy'.


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## spaceconvoy (Sep 2, 2021)

This is beyond the scope of the thread, but it's my thread so... Consider this an addendum: "Side quest for the perfect on-board paring knife to compliment the perfect in-hand paring knife"






The smallness of the 90mm Tojiro clone has been bugging me enough to buy a Wusthof  that I'll be returning promptly, don't worry. I do like the shape, and I couldn't find anything with similar dimensions from Japan - western knives with a metal bolster under 120mm long but over 28mm tall just don't seem to exist.

Too many things wrong with the Wusthof: handles feel like dookie, sort of rubbery and not as dense as my wife's older set, spine is kinked and the edge has a very slight curve, profile is too curvy and heel too shallow-angled relative to the handle, not as good for board works as I had hoped. I could have lived with the steel.

Since I like making extra work for myself, I decided to reprofile a 130mm Misono UX-10 I had lying around in my closet. The adjacent 440 has the same original profile, so you can see I not only chopped the tip off, but also flattened the curve of the edge and angled it higher relative to the handle. Dimensions are now 105 x 29, and if I keep a tight grip, my knuckles don't touch the board while chopping. 






Here is the lovely couple. I've come to the conclusion that the typical 90mm paring knife is the worst of both worlds, not really suited to in-hand or on-board work.


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## HumbleHomeCook (Sep 2, 2021)

Does the on-board knife have to be yo handled?

Your picture just reminded me of seeing this guy:

Muneishi 120mm Kiritsuke


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## spaceconvoy (Sep 2, 2021)

HumbleHomeCook said:


> Does the on-board knife have to be yo handled?


For my tastes it does. This is the knife I'll use in the chaos of the final minutes of cooking when my cutting board is cramped, left to sit with whatever liquids might be on it until I'll ready to clean up.


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## HumbleHomeCook (Sep 2, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> For my tastes it does. This is the knife I'll use in the chaos of the final minutes of cooking when my cutting board is cramped, left to sit with whatever liquids might be on it until I'll ready to clean up.



I very much get that. For reasons I have yet to fully nail down in my own mind, I'm much more attracted to western-handled petties. Taller ones can be challenging to find. Yaxell makes some pretty short santoku and taller petties. Just trying to recall things I've seen.


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## spaceconvoy (Sep 2, 2021)

HumbleHomeCook said:


> I very much get that. For reasons I have yet to fully nail down in my own mind, I'm much more attracted to western-handled petties. Taller ones can be challenging to find. Yaxell makes some pretty short santoku and taller petties. Just trying to recall things I've seen.


I saw that, but slightly too big, and the handle is really not my style. You should know that my kitchen counter is 4'8", with a 2' sink directly in the middle. I wanted _the_ smallest possible knife that I could still rock chop garlic with. The best size I found was this Chroma, but they have mostly bad reviews on here and I admit I'm biased against anything made in China:



JapanChef – J02 – 4″ Chef Knife | Chroma


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## Ruso (Sep 3, 2021)

Bird beaks are great for mashroom picking. However, straight blades are good too. 

For kitchen inhand use something thin and light is my goto. All the “fancy” knives are usually too thick and rigid for this use.


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## Morkandbert (Sep 3, 2021)

I'm giving these a try for right now.. The cost after the price drop and the extra 20% off they are offering for labor day make it a reasonable chance buy for me.








Nexus BD1N Stainless Steel Paring & Peeling Knife Set | Cutlery and More


Shop for Nexus BD1N Stainless Steel Paring & Peeling Knives at Cutlery and More. We are your source for everything Nexus with FREE shipping on orders over $49. We are experts in kitchen knives & cookware.




www.cutleryandmore.com





the Henckles classic peeling knife is on clearance for $9.99








Henckels Classic Curved Peeling Knife, 2.5" | Cutlery and More


Shop for Henckels Classic Paring & Peeling Knives at Cutlery and More. We are your source for everything Henckels with FREE shipping on orders over $49. We are experts in kitchen knives & cookware.




www.cutleryandmore.com


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## spaceconvoy (Sep 3, 2021)

I like the wickedly narrow tip on that Nexus peeler, but not the exposed heel.





If anyone's curious, here's what I'm dealing with for another 11 months at least. I kind of like the coziness and everything being within arms reach, but it definitely takes more forethought and planning to make anything complex.


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## Morkandbert (Sep 3, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> I like the wickedly narrow tip on that Nexus peeler, but not the exposed heel.
> 
> View attachment 140773
> 
> If anyone's curious, here's what I'm dealing with for another 11 months at least. I kind of like the coziness and everything being within arms reach, but it definitely takes more forethought and planning to make anything complex.


Attractive working space. That is about the space set up that we are working with. Trying to decide on a wall paint color so we can hang up the magnetic strips. 

And yeah, I bought the set knowing the heel on the bird beak might be too much as is. I prefer a petty and was going to skip a parings but I needed the extra item for free shipping so I risked it on a "ah what the heck" type of buy. Good chance that at least one of them will work out or teach me something.


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## Steampunk (Sep 3, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> I like the wickedly narrow tip on that Nexus peeler, but not the exposed heel.
> 
> View attachment 140773
> 
> If anyone's curious, here's what I'm dealing with for another 11 months at least. I kind of like the coziness and everything being within arms reach, but it definitely takes more forethought and planning to make anything complex.



The precision of alignment in this photo is intellectually satisfying. Also, it's tight, but clearly well thought out. I like it... I've worked in worse, and the proximity of board to sink to stove is actually pretty nice. You'll make some nice meals in that kitchen.


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## Jovidah (Sep 3, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> This is beyond the scope of the thread, but it's my thread so... Consider this an addendum: "Side quest for the perfect on-board paring knife to compliment the perfect in-hand paring knife"
> 
> View attachment 140682
> 
> ...


Personally I've always found using anything <150mm on the board incredibly annoying. Once you get up to 150 and more you can at least pretty comfortably push cut with the front half. But to each their own. If you're looking for someting in this direction, the Robert Herder K2, K3 and K4 might be worth looking into, since they're essentially exactly in this tall-but-short-middle category. Can double as nice cheese knives I guess. Handles are not ideal on those if you're looking for 0 fuss.



spaceconvoy said:


> I like the wickedly narrow tip on that Nexus peeler, but not the exposed heel.
> 
> View attachment 140773
> 
> If anyone's curious, here's what I'm dealing with for another 11 months at least. I kind of like the coziness and everything being within arms reach, but it definitely takes more forethought and planning to make anything complex.



I sympathize... I've had to deal with such a small kitchen for a few years as well and it wasn't fun. Honestly the problem isn't so much cooking in it. When everything is clean and tidy everything is fine, the problem is that any dirty dishes immediately start cutting into your workspace, and it's very easy to end up in a situation where you can't even cook before you finsihed cleaning up everything. Maybe it works better if you're dilligent about 'clean as you go', but back then I had a bad habbit of occasionally slipping into 'clean as you need'... 

Ironically now that I have a kitchen several times as big, I still find myself doing 95% of my prep on my 'station' next to the stove that's still only 1 meter wide.  The rest mostly ends up being used as 'space to put stuff'.


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## gregfisk (Sep 3, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> I like the wickedly narrow tip on that Nexus peeler, but not the exposed heel.
> 
> View attachment 140773
> 
> If anyone's curious, here's what I'm dealing with for another 11 months at least. I kind of like the coziness and everything being within arms reach, but it definitely takes more forethought and planning to make anything complex.


Very nice looking and Orginized work space. The only issue I see is that sink needs to be much deeper.


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## spaceconvoy (Sep 4, 2021)

It's a rental so I do what I can, within reason... Thanks all for the compliments, I'm anal retentive sort of a perfectionist and mildly ADHDish in the way that I forget things exist if I can't see them. So this is the result of that combo. And yes, I really own only two forks and two spoons. I used to have a bad clean-as-you-need habit too, so I got rid of all the excess stuff and it helps keep things from piling up.



Jovidah said:


> Personally I've always found using anything <150mm on the board incredibly annoying. Once you get up to 150 and more you can at least pretty comfortably push cut with the front half. But to each their own. If you're looking for someting in this direction, the Robert Herder K2, K3 and K4 might be worth looking into, since they're essentially exactly in this tall-but-short-middle category. Can double as nice cheese knives I guess. Handles are not ideal on those if you're looking for 0 fuss.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You'd think my tiny kitchen would require prepping everything ahead of time, but it can actually makes things worse. I tend to prep the big things first with my larger knives, but wait to do certain things so there are fewer piles of ingredients taking up space. The new 105mm micro-santoku will be used exclusively for last minute additions like lemon, garlic, olives, jalapenos, basil, basically anything I feel like adding to a sauce, usually when the only space available is one corner of the board.

I have a Herder K2 but the handle developed a gap and I don't like using it anymore. Plus I think they're actually too thin, and the flat grind creates a lot of friction with cheese. I like my small honesuki a lot for this.


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## M1k3 (Sep 4, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> It's a rental so I do what I can, within reason... Thanks all for the compliments, I'm anal retentive sort of a perfectionist and mildly ADHDish in the way that I forget things exist if I can't see them. So this is the result of that combo. And yes, I really own only two forks and two spoons. I used to have a bad clean-as-you-need habit too, so I got rid of all the excess stuff and it helps keep things from piling up.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Might I suggest deli cups, the heavy duty ones unless you hate yourself, in varying sizes? You can stack them together, big one on bottom, middle sized one inside that, and small one on top. Amazon.com: (120 Pack) 32 oz Plastic Soup Containers with Lids, Heavy Duty Deli Food Storage/Take Out Containers, Microwavable, Leakproof : Home & Kitchen


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## HumbleHomeCook (Sep 4, 2021)

I was just about to suggest deli containers too. I also have limited counter space and find these containers and some paper plates HUGE benefits for prep.


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## spaceconvoy (Sep 4, 2021)

I have a thing against plastic so I use ceramic bowls or mason jars sometimes. I especially like the 24oz wide mouth style because they don't have a neck and are about the size of a water glass. They fit in the otherwise useless space between the cutting board and the wall (along with whatever I'm drinking). They've replaced all the tupperware in my life, and the size allows me to maximize storage in my small freezer. Stackability is a problem, but the trade off feels worthwhile for the other issues they solve.


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## Jovidah (Sep 4, 2021)

I'm with you on not wanting to add to the plastic pile. If I ever need to store foods I mostly try to use whatever plates I'll be having dinner on (unless it's something like raw meat).
Personally cutting on a filled board drives me absolutely insane... so what I used to do - and still do - is to ignore the general advice of doing a proper mise en place and cutting everything before cooking. Of course I still do that if I'm doing a big fancy meal for a lot of people, but when it's just 'normal' portions I prefer to just figure out what order I need the ingredients in first and basically cut things as I need them and throw them straight in the pan. Especially in a smaller setup or a 'cutting right next to the stove' setup this always worked really well for me. For me this was one of the biggest payoffs of getting better knife and knife skills (cutting a lot faster) as it's vastly more efficient than cutting everything first.


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## MarcelNL (Sep 4, 2021)

Looks a lot like the cramped space in our current rental house... If there is a benefit it is that I learned to do a proper mise en place as there is no way to put stuff down and prep, and I need to cook alone as there is no way to work side by side. We stuffed an high and narrow Ikea Billy to keep all our spices close, in glass Bormeoli containers as we also try avoid plastic when possible.


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## spaceconvoy (Sep 4, 2021)

Jovidah said:


> I prefer to just figure out what order I need the ingredients in first and basically cut things as I need them and throw them straight in the pan.



Exactly! Because of my background I was thinking this morning of how this approach is similar to JIT (Just-in-Time) manufacturing pioneered by Toyota. For industries where inventory costs are high (ie, small kitchens with no space), investment in design and planning increases overall efficiency 









Just-in-Time (JIT): Definition, Example, and Pros & Cons


A just-in-time (JIT) inventory system is a management strategy that aligns raw-material orders from suppliers directly with production schedules.




www.investopedia.com


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## HumbleHomeCook (Sep 4, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> Exactly! Because of my background I was thinking this morning of how this approach is similar to JIT (Just-in-Time) manufacturing pioneered by Toyota. For industries where inventory costs are high (ie, small kitchens with no space), investment in design and planning increases overall efficiency
> 
> 
> 
> ...



No! Nooooooooo!!!! No TPS in my KKF!!!! 

Whenever possible I'm a "cut as I need it" guy too. But it also depends on what I'm cooking and what I have going on. But even so, my cutting board isn't that big so if I'm dicing a few different veggies, I need to clear them off the board. More often than not, that's where the paper plates come in for me.


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## stringer (Sep 4, 2021)

Jovidah said:


> I'm with you on not wanting to add to the plastic pile. If I ever need to store foods I mostly try to use whatever plates I'll be having dinner on (unless it's something like raw meat).
> Personally cutting on a filled board drives me absolutely insane... so what I used to do - and still do - is to ignore the general advice of doing a proper mise en place and cutting everything before cooking. Of course I still do that if I'm doing a big fancy meal for a lot of people, but when it's just 'normal' portions I prefer to just figure out what order I need the ingredients in first and basically cut things as I need them and throw them straight in the pan. Especially in a smaller setup or a 'cutting right next to the stove' setup this always worked really well for me. For me this was one of the biggest payoffs of getting better knife and knife skills (cutting a lot faster) as it's vastly more efficient than cutting everything first.



The only time I mise en place everything ahead of time at home is when I'm on Sous Chef duty. And by that I mean my SO is doing the cooking and asks me to do the prep work.


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## Jovidah (Sep 4, 2021)

spaceconvoy said:


> I have a Herder K2 but the handle developed a gap and I don't like using it anymore. Plus I think they're actually too thin, and the flat grind creates a lot of friction with cheese. I like my small honesuki a lot for this.


Skipped over this part accidentally. Yeah sadly my K5 has the exact same issue; I think it's a problem across the whole line. Really a shame. I agree that food release is it's second weakness. I think it's not just becasue of the flat grind, but also because of the high polish. It's the stickiest knife I have.



stringer said:


> The only time I mise en place everything ahead of time at home is when I'm on Sous Chef duty. And by that I mean my SO is doing the cooking and asks me to do the prep work.


Yeah I can imagine that for someone with a professional background this is rather trivial, but 10 years ago for me as a casual normie it was not. I used to be one of those people who would take an hour to cut 3 bell peppers while sitting on a couch with a cuttingboard in my lap and a petty in my hand so dull you could rub it in the palm of your hand. Incredibly inefficient; it basically forced me to cook like all the TV cooks that have everything prepped in advance because their own time is too expensive and their knife skills too lacking to do it on the go.
These days I only do it when I'm cooking for a larger group so I can invest my limited attention on trying to act like a normal socially adjusted person.


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## icanhaschzbrgr (Sep 5, 2021)

Ericfg said:


> You use a bird's beak/tourne on your board?


I meant I don't use paring knives in hand anymore. But when I used to do so, small birds beak felt perfect in hand.

These days I grab paring knife mainly to quickly cut apple or  for an infant


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## daizee (Sep 5, 2021)

How am I just seeing this thread now?
VERY interesting stuff.

I have a few opinions, but amn't a pro cook:

* The blade can't be too wide, or you can't turn it in material
* I like a bit of belly, but not too much (but there's a case to be made for a mostly straight edge too)
* Too big a handle is annoying for in-hand curl cuts unless you have huge and thin hands (lots of volume inside your grip), IMO
* 3.5" is a comfortable average blade length, and handle should be at least 4.25"
* I prefer a stiffer blade than typical stamped (or even integral) 1/16" thickness, but no more than 3/32".

My own standard paring knife shape has been pretty popular (by my tiny-scale standards). But a year or two ago (now), a retired celebrity chef and I jammed for awhile on paring knife designs. (Maybe he's here? Hi W.!) We didn't reach a final conclusion of the project, but developing some prototypes was super interesting, including slanted scales, slanted plunges, and finally on to a plunge-less model with a particular scale-fronts-to-edge relationship that put the edge right under your fingers for precise control. It was a really educational project.


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## coxhaus (Sep 5, 2021)

icanhaschzbrgr said:


> I meant I don't use paring knives in hand anymore. But when I used to do so, small birds beak felt perfect in hand.
> 
> These days I grab paring knife mainly to quickly cut apple or  for an infant



How do you core the apple if you don't use your left hand? I use my left hand to rotate the apple and adjust for the coring. I would think this is a in hand operation? Maybe there is another way. I am only a home cook.


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## Ericfg (Sep 6, 2021)

daizee said:


> a retired celebrity chef and I jammed for awhile on paring knife designs. (Maybe he's here? Hi W.!) We didn't reach a final conclusion of the project, but developing some prototypes was super interesting, including slanted scales, slanted plunges, and finally on to a plunge-less model with a particular scale-fronts-to-edge relationship that put the edge right under your fingers for precise control.


Would love to see some of those designs if possible.


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## Ericfg (Sep 6, 2021)

Here's an update on the paring knife lot I posted earlier:





From left to right:
A carbon Herder. I was most interested in this one in particular. A bit worn and part of the 'R' and 'H' in Robert Herder have been sharpened away.
A Victorinox. This one had some serious pulling-away of the handles down by the bolster. Nothing a little epoxy and sanding couldn't fix.
A "Le Diamant De Cusinier" marked blade which Googles tells me to be related to Sabatier.
A couple of commonish, small blades.
The blue handled knife is marked "L'Econome Inox France" with an umbrella logo.
After that just miscellaneous junk.
Of the first 8 I sanded, epoxied as needed, polished the heavily scratched ones, and then sharpened and oiled them all.
The first two responded really well at work and I haven't taken any others there, yet.

I forgot to show the unmarked Sabatier oyster knife. Still a work in progress.


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## daizee (Sep 6, 2021)

Ericfg said:


> Would love to see some of those designs if possible.



A good idea of the profile:






This blade has no plunge yet is effectively FFG and still rigid. The entire piece of steel is tapered in a sort of shallow diagonal. Here's the spine:






And the underside:


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