# D handle removal



## Mike Davis (Feb 21, 2012)

How do you guy's remove the original handles without wrecking them? Is it a heat thing? I thought they were sealed in the handles with wax, but i had to break the handle off my Watanabe deba to get it off. I am just trying to rehandle my personal kitchen knives, but do not want to risk ruining any of the knives.


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## Dave Martell (Feb 21, 2012)

Marko's the man with his technique for removing them in tack, me - I chisel off most in pieces, I've never been able to get more than a small percent off in tact.


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## tk59 (Feb 21, 2012)

I could have sworn that someone posted a tutorial but I can't find it...


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## Mike Davis (Feb 21, 2012)

i can break them off...not concerned with saving them, just dont want to hurt the knife.


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## mhenry (Feb 21, 2012)

See Marko's tutorial, it's the method I use now, but some just won't come off you are gonna have to destroy it.


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## Marko Tsourkan (Feb 21, 2012)

With exception of a few makers (Carter) most handles are simply burned and forced in. To knock it off, you need a wooden block that is longer than the blade, placed against the handle. A few blows to the other side of the block, will knock the handle off. Don't forget to tape the edge of the blade, or might be very sorry.

M


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## Pensacola Tiger (Feb 21, 2012)

Marko,

If I'm not mistaken, Murray epoxies the handles of only the HG series. The SFGZ and KU knives are burned in. At least that has been my experience.

Rick



Marko Tsourkan said:


> With exception of a few makers (Carter) most handles are simply burned and forced in. To knock it off, you need a wooden block that is longer than the blade, placed against the handle. A few blows to the other side of the block, will knock the handle off. Don't forget to tape the edge of the blade, or might be very sorry.
> 
> M


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## JBroida (Feb 21, 2012)

most knives i see from japan have some kind of epoxy or sealant in the handle


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## JohnnyChance (Feb 21, 2012)

Even the ones with epoxy or sealant right where the tang meets the handle will come off with Marko's method.


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## Marko Tsourkan (Feb 21, 2012)

JBroida said:


> most knives i see from japan have some kind of epoxy or sealant in the handle



They typically seal the tip of the handle, but no epoxy is in the tang. I removed both Takeda and Moritaka handles without damaging them. Carter handles I had to split open - no regrets fro those. 

Rick, the one on your knife that I replaced with Cocobolo handle, I had to crack open. I was epoxied.


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## JBroida (Feb 21, 2012)

for almost every maker i cary they are epoxied all the way through... there are a couple that are only sealed at the top and a few with nothing at all


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## Mike Davis (Feb 21, 2012)

Thanks guys. I think i will make a block that is slotted for the blade and try Marko's method....If it doesn't work, there is always the squeeze them in a vise method...that worked for me last night lol.


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## tk59 (Feb 21, 2012)

Interesting. I've seen maybe a dozen Carters. Only the HG's have been epoxied, except for one SFGZ that had an upgraded ho wood handle on it.


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## Marko Tsourkan (Feb 21, 2012)

It's quite possible, but the one I removed had a pretty unremarkable handle on it and it was epoxied. 

M


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## tk59 (Feb 21, 2012)

I wouldn't characterize any handle I've seen from Murray as "remarkable," lol. Although, I do like my ebony handle.


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## Andy777 (Feb 22, 2012)

My whole thought this time is "why would anyone want to save a Murray handle?" 

I never try to save any, I just use a chisel, by far the best way to crack those suckers off.


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## Johnny.B.Good (Feb 22, 2012)

tk59 said:


> I wouldn't characterize any handle I've seen from Murray as "remarkable," lol. Although, I do like my ebony handle.



I like mine too (so long as you don't put it up against work from Marko, Stefan, Mike, etc.).


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## heirkb (Feb 23, 2012)

I could link you to the tutorial that TK was talking about, but what I posted below was easier to find and it's a video.

[video=youtube;6evDu8cjRps]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6evDu8cjRps[/video]


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