# Saya Making The Tutorial Part1



## uc357 (Nov 26, 2016)

A disclaimer to start. I am unashamedly left handed so if the images look somewhat strange simply apply the mirror image rule and the world will seem fine again.

I like to use Cedar either Red or White to make any saya. It is a soft wood which is easy to cut and shape, will not scratch the surface of your blades, is durable and dimensionaly stable. Cedar is frequently used for outdoor applications
so it will last. Some pieces can also exhibit a very attractive grain pattern.
I buy boards that are approx. 3 1/2' x 3/4" which is large enough to accommodate any knife, cleavers not included. When choosing a board go to a supplier that offers kiln dried wood that is not stored outside and get Quarter Sawed boards. In other words when you look at the end grain you want to see the lines running from one side to the other, What you do not want to see is this.[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/images.duckduckgo.com.jpeg.html]

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The regular sawn lumber will in time bow upwards at the sides.

[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/Begining.jpg.html]

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Here is my workbench with all the tools (clamps not shown) needed. All of my tools are of course Japanese. I guess in this forum I can safely say Japanese blades cut better without an argument.
The tools from left to right are: Joining Plane, Marking Gauge, Ryoba Saw, Single Bevel Utility Knife, 1/8" Bench Chisel,
3/8" Chisel, 3/8" chisel, 17mm Cranked Neck Chisel, Double Sided and Mask9ng Tape, and some clamps. in front is the board I will use to make the saya. I will describe the tools in depth when in use.
[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/Marking%20Board.jpg.html]

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Start by marking your cut along three sides of the board using a Marking Gauge. We are making a 2 piece saya which
is is carved to fit completely into one side and the other side is flat. Proportionately I divide it 70/30. The marking gauge differs from western styles because it uses a blade to mark rather than a pin or wheel. I score the wood as deep as the blade can go so it is easier to follow with the saw. 
[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/Rip%20Board.jpg.html]

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The Ryoba saw is a standard saw used in carpentry. As you can see it has two different types of teeth on either side of the saw. The side with the larger teeth is for Ripping (cutting along the grain) and the other is for cross cutting. The other difference is in thickness of the blade. This one is approx. 1mm thick. They are thin because all Japanese saws cut on the pull stroke unlike western saws. It is much easier to be accurate when you pull. Thin blades also have a thin kerf so you don't waste wood. If you are interested Google it and get a comprehensive description.
Start your cut facing the end of the board so you can clearly see your vertical and horizontal marks. As you cut it will be easy to see if your cut is not straight.
[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/Rpi%20Board%202.jpg.html]

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I make 3 cuts to separate the board in two. I hope the photo illustrates the procedure because I am finding it difficult to explain it. Make the first cut, turn the board upside down and cut again then lay the board flat and slide the saw between and complete the cut.
[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/Plane%20Panels.jpg.html]

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[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/Plane%20Panels2.jpg.html]

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Do not worry if your cut is less than perfect because a few minutes with a hand plane will flatten them. Japanese planes are quite simple in construction. As you can see there is a block of wood a blade and a smaller blade called a chip breaker which is not being used at the moment. Adjustment for blade depth is rather prehistoric. The blade is tapped in with a hammer while you look along the bottom of the plane. Do not let the looks deceive you because a sharp blade properly adjusted can pull of the finest shavings and will leave the surface smooth enough to finish. Planing will often leave a better finish than fine sand paper also will not push the sanded dust into the pores of the wood. In Japan they have planing competitions. I would go to YouTube and check them out.
In order to maintain orientation of the panels, mark one end with some lines. specifically the front end. The other end is sanded smooth. In the picture there is a square piece of wood in front of the board being planed. This is simply a stationary stop stuck to the table with DS tape.
[URL=http://s116.photobucket.com/user/cary_051/media/Panel%20Match_1.jpg.html]

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These are now ready to begin carving. You will not see any gaps between the panels. Important to the final finish.
The seam once glued should be almost invisible.

I will post part 2 possibly tomorrow as a new post


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## Marek07 (Nov 26, 2016)

Great start - thanks for posting!
:thumbsup:
Do you have any tips to keep the saw parallel to the sides while cutting, or is it just "steady as she goes"?


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## uc357 (Nov 26, 2016)

Marek07 said:


> Great start - thanks for posting!
> :thumbsup:
> Do you have any tips to keep the saw parallel to the sides while cutting, or is it just "steady as she goes"?



I think making a cut like this is probably the most difficult part of the whole process. I myself have never been able to do it. On the bright side I usually account for a loss of 5mm due to a misaligned cut. This is why I don't try to cut through
the entire height at one time. The one I am working on now had at least a 4mm deviation, It takes little time to plane it flat so I don't stress the cut too much.


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## HPoirot (Nov 28, 2016)

excellent post!!!

more please. 

i'm totally lost on first read, but a little cross referencing on google should bring me up to speed. 

keep it up!!!


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## Matus (Nov 28, 2016)

Excellent! I can not wait to see more of this series. Please do tell us more about the specific tools. In particular I would like to know what kind of plane is best suited for the work - I have 0 knowledge there. I have actually considered to get a plane, but did not do that because I simply do not know what kind of plane(s) do I need for saya making.


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## uc357 (Nov 28, 2016)

Matus said:


> Excellent! I can not wait to see more of this series. Please do tell us more about the specific tools. In particular I would like to know what kind of plane is best suited for the work - I have 0 knowledge there. I have actually considered to get a plane, but did not do that because I simply do not know what kind of plane(s) do I need for saya making.



Hi Matus
I wanted to thank you for the knife making posts. They are enjoyable to read and educational.
In terms of a plane, I don't think there is one that is necessarily better for saya making. I use a standard 55mm joining plane. A joining plane is different to others only in the length of the body. A standard smoothing plane which is half the length should do just fine. I prefer a wide blade so I can plane the entire board at once as opposed to thinner blades and more passes. I use the plane extensively when shaping the outside of the saya. The last 3 saya I made were shaped with a plane and 1 chisel. The great thing about a Japanese plane is the finish it leaves on the wood. In Japan woodworkers need not sand the wood to finish it because a plane cuts so cleanly. In fact a sharp blade will cut the fibers of the wood cleanly which exposes the grain and leaves a shinier finish than sanding. When you sand wood you are removing material which is good but you are also forcing wood dust into the pores which hides the actual grain. 
I am about to post part2 soon. The photography is killing me. It is taking forever.


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## milkbaby (Nov 28, 2016)

Thanks for the tutorial! :doublethumbsup:

For resawing the wood board into two thinner boards, do you need a really nice Japanese pullsaw? I've thought of picking up a cheap one from the hardware store before but never did because unsure of the quality and the width of the kerf it will make compared to a more expensive saw. Or is technique more important to the quality of the result?

Somebody posted a video of one of the Japanese planing competitions and the thinness of the wood ribbon they can generate is unbelievable...


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## uc357 (Nov 28, 2016)

milkbaby said:


> Thanks for the tutorial! :doublethumbsup:
> 
> For resawing the wood board into two thinner boards, do you need a really nice Japanese pullsaw? I've thought of picking up a cheap one from the hardware store before but never did because unsure of the quality and the width of the kerf it will make compared to a more expensive saw. Or is technique more important to the quality of the result?
> 
> Somebody posted a video of one of the Japanese planing competitions and the thinness of the wood ribbon they can generate is unbelievable...


My Ryoba saw is modern design meaning synthetic handle with replaceable blades and was the cheapest from Lee Valley tools. Just noticed Amazon.com has them for $27.25 US$. there should be no difference in kerf width, all of the saws are really thin regardless of price. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000224U3/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


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## Matus (Nov 28, 2016)

Thank you, uc357, that helps me a lot. And thanks for the kind words


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