# Yoshikane > Kato & Kamo



## ap1487 (Nov 21, 2020)

Edit: Originally asked to compare Kato and Kamo but now thread asking about Yoshikane knies

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Hi guys

Do you ever overanalyse a buying choice that you're completely paralysed? That's where I am!

I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts comparing the SG2 Damascus Gyuto knives from Yoshimi Kato and Shiro Kamo? Links at Kitchen Provisions here.
Yoshimi Kato
Shiro Kamo

I'm looking for a good looking stainless 210mm gyuto, available in the EU, for under 500 Euros (£450). I appreciate beauty is in the eye of the beholder so I can clarify that I prefer busier finishes than simple finishes (Damascus preferred, Nashiji & Tsuchime are ok, but for me Migaki and Kurouchi are out, don't mean to offend anyone!). I also appreciate there's a F&F price premium but like a nice watch, if you're looking at it everyday might as well pick something you like. For carbon fans I can tell you that as much as I want to try my hand at one, I am a forgetful person, easily distracted and always leave my knives on my board, I am just not ready for one yet I am ashamed to admit.

I've narrowed down my knife shortlist to these two and seeing as they're both SG2 and both Damascus and both quite similarly priced, I'm finding it hard to decide and I'd be interested to see if anyone had any thoughts? I've read both passaround threads which were interesting, but still can't decide.

KATO VS KAMO


Y KatoS KamoLength of blade:217222HRC61-6262-63Spine thickness at base:1.6mm2.5mmHeight47mm54mmWeight145-155g180-190g

From what I've read on forums, seems like Kato has more stickiness issues than the Kamo? However, ergonomically, being 5"5, using knives with a big knuckle clearance can sometimes be difficult because of the height of the knife and counter top, if the clearance is too big you end up doing unnatural motions with your elbow! On the other hand, the Kamo seems to be a touch heavier and I do have concerns that maybe the Kato will feel too delicate. Finally Kato is a new age blacksmith while Kamo is old and classical, I can't deny that owning a Kamo from such a classic maker has its charms!

Any advice or comments would be more than welcome! I'm sure I'll "be happy with either, they're both great knives" as you often hear people say... but that requires me to actually make a choice!

PS: last min swerve, if you have any other recommendations I'm open to them, I also considered the Yu Kurosaki Sujiriki / Senko / Raijin if anyone thinks those are better than both the Kato and Kamo?

LOCATION: UK
KNIFE TYPE:
- 210mm Gyuto (right handed)
- Stainless Steel
- Wa handle
- Prefer laser-to-middle weight
- Don't mind paying the uplift for a 'beautiful' finish, want a good looking vanity knife
KNIFE USE:
- Mixed use in very low volume professional setting (80% veggies, 90% meat/fish, no bones)
- Pinch grip, both push cut & rocking
- Prefer laser-to-middle weight
- Will join a Vnox 8" for heavy duty things and a Vnox Utility knife for small work (although this will also get replaced by a Japanese Petty in next few months)
KNIFE MAINTENANCE
- End Grain walnut board
- Use Naniwa Pro 800 / 3000 (low skill level, always learning though and getting better every time)


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## drsmp (Nov 21, 2020)

Kurosaki Fujin AS and Shizuku R2 are two of my favorites and I have/had Kato, Shig, Tsukasa and many Western makers for comparison.
If you find the Damascus is “sticky” a light sanding with the highest grit micro mesh pad doesn’t effect the look much but knocks down the rough surface from the etch


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## daveb (Nov 21, 2020)

Welcome.

You know that neither are Damascus? The faux dammy layer exterior on these blades has nothing to do with a Damascus blade. Yes they do look "cool" to the uninitiated but to borrow your watch analogy this dammy is much like a Rolex knockoff.

That said, both knives get good marks. A better knife (for me) would be a nashiji Yoshikane but at that level you're getting into individual preference. The only one you need to make happy is you.


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## drsmp (Nov 21, 2020)

Dave’s got a point - Yoshikane SLD damascus would be a great choice ! Absolutely one of my favorites !


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## ap1487 (Nov 21, 2020)

Thanks for comments guys, I've spent all day doing research and have come to agree that spending money on a faux-Damascus would be a waste, especially as I've just started my knife journey.

I've also set my heart on a Yoshikane with your contributions. Do you guys have any thoughts between these options?
Hamono SKD Yoshikane Hamono SKD Gyuto 210mm
Hamono White 2 Yoshikane Hamono White #2 Gyuto 210mm
SKD Gyuto
SLD Damascus Epicurean Edge: Japanese and European professional chefs knives

Are the two SKD options the exact same knife but different finish?

Any thoughts about the pros and cons of SKD vs SLD vs White 2? Is the SLD worth paying 20% more?

Thanks!


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## M1k3 (Nov 21, 2020)

The fancy finish. The grinds are all pretty similar between different models. As far as steel goes: 
Ease of sharpening White > SKD > SLD. 
Edge retention SLD > SKD > White
Stainlessness SLD > SKD > White


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## captaincaed (Nov 22, 2020)

I will add that that Yoshi SLD seems to require a bit more effort to deburr than SKD. Absolutely love their knives.


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## ModRQC (Nov 22, 2020)

I'd say SLD fits your requirements best: not carbon/closer to stainless, and "closer" to your initial steel choice, in a way.

As for SG2 itself, have you looked at these of Makoto Kurosaki and S. Tanaka? I'd put both these makers before Y. Kato or Shiro Kamo.

Not to steer you away from a Yoshi - great choice!


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## JayS20 (Nov 22, 2020)

The Yoshi SLD Dami is a nice and beautiful knife. You have to factor in shipping and tax though. So it will be over 600€. 
With the Yoshi SKD from cuttingedge you won't make a bad decision.
With M. Kurosaki SG2 not available right now and maybe too boring finish for you. VG10 version is available *Makoto Kurosaki VG10 Gyuto 210 stylk-103205.000015
S.Tanaka I can only find in Aogami SHIGEKI TANAKA BLUE STEEL NO.2 17 LAYER DAMASCUS GYUTO you would have to import else.


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## daveb (Nov 22, 2020)

Gyuto


Gyuto Yoshikane - Semi stainless Blade length: 210 mm



www.cleancut.eu


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## 9mmbhp (Nov 22, 2020)

Konosuke YS or YS-M is another option. 
Discussion thread
Konosuke YS-M Gyuto 210mm Khii Enju Handle Regular - €334.33 EUR
Tosho Knife Arts - Konosuke Sanjo


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## JayS20 (Nov 22, 2020)

9mmbhp said:


> Konosuke YS or YS-M is another option.
> Discussion thread
> Konosuke YS-M Gyuto 210mm Khii Enju Handle Regular - €334.33 EUR
> Tosho Knife Arts - Konosuke Sanjo


Only an option if you live in Canada or the US.


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## ap1487 (Nov 22, 2020)

Hi guys, thanks for everyones comments, the Yoshi SKD has been ordered! Beyond excited. Now I've finally bought the knife after so many days of research maybe I'll be able to read something else other than knife forums.... 

or not....


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## ModRQC (Nov 22, 2020)

SKD or SLD?


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## ModRQC (Nov 22, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> Hi guys, thanks for everyones comments, the Yoshi SKD has been ordered! Beyond excited. *Now I've finally bought the knife after so many days of research maybe I'll be able to read something else other than knife forums....
> 
> or not....*



I hope you can, really... from my own experience, good luck with that, though. If not now, then when you'll have used the Yoshi a bit, you'll want another something good.


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## ap1487 (Nov 22, 2020)

Haha, that's some nuanced spice I don't know how to process it.

Bought the SKD as I couldn't justify paying nearly double for the SLD (as EpicEdge is the only place selling them and shipping+taxes mean the price is basically double). Thanks again for the help.


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## captaincaed (Nov 22, 2020)

Epic edge does not miss a chance to charge a premium. If you see one for sale on BST, grab that sucker. Good job taking the plunge


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## ap1487 (Nov 22, 2020)

I don't know enough about this world but it does seem strange how Epic end up as literally the only seller in the entire world for that line when it seems like everyone and their dog is selling the SKD one!


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## JayS20 (Nov 22, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> I don't know enough about this world but it does seem strange how Epic end up as literally the only seller in the entire world for that line when it seems like everyone and their dog is selling the SKD one!


Not really. Some stores have kinda exclusive deals with retailers.
Concerning the SLD Dami, other stores also had them and there don't seem to be restocks of this knifeline since then. Cleancut also had some. I guess Epic's is old stock.


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## ap1487 (Nov 22, 2020)

oh right, got you, that makes sense! Nonetheless, if he's the only one selling it left I suppose he can charge what he wants!


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## JayS20 (Nov 22, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> oh right, got you, that makes sense! Nonetheless, if he's the only one selling it left I suppose he can charge what he wants!


The price is pretty normal for the Yoshi and hasn't changed in over a year.
Epic edge is fine and you might get a discount as KKF member.
Captaincaed tried to sell his for 500$ too quite some time ago.


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## birdsfan (Nov 22, 2020)

You will love the SKD. It is a fine steel. Very good edge retention. Not as good as r2 but better than White. For a home cook it is much more than adequate. And really, I leave mine on my board all through service, and while I wipe it down as time permits, it often sits with tomato or onion juices on it and it only takes a mild patina. Yoshikane grinds are really well executed, thin behind the edge but enough convexity to not annoying cling to food.


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## ap1487 (Nov 22, 2020)

Thanks for the reassurance.

Incidentally, it's time to replace my stones and I've been eyeing up the Naniwa Pro 400, 800 and 3000 as my set, also using it to sharpen / restore some of my other family knives as my skill level improves. From the reading I've done apparently there's little point going above a certain grit level for both stainless steel and powdered steel like (not sure why, would love to understand better).

With that in mind, what combination do you think would suit better? 
Naniwa Pro 400+800+3000, or 400+1000+5000?

Any thoughts welcome.


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## JayS20 (Nov 22, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> Thanks for the reassurance.
> 
> Incidentally, it's time to replace my stones and I've been eyeing up the Naniwa Pro 400, 800 and 3000 as my set, also using it to sharpen / restore some of my other family knives as my skill level improves. From the reading I've done apparently there's little point going above a certain grit level for both stainless steel and powdered steel like (not sure why, would love to understand better).
> 
> ...


I would go 400, 1000 and 3000 but you can also go 5000 Super/Specialty Stone. 400 only really needed for thinning and repair work imo.


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## daveb (Nov 22, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> Naniwa



You spelled Shapton wrong.


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## M1k3 (Nov 22, 2020)

In my limited experience, I prefer SKD over SLD.


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## daveb (Nov 22, 2020)

SLD for looks,

SKD for life.


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## ap1487 (Nov 22, 2020)

daveb said:


> You spelled Shapton wrong.


Sorry!! there's a hefty sale going on at the EU store knivesgndtools which doesn't apply to the Shaptons, don't want to wade into this civil war!


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## M1k3 (Nov 22, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> Sorry!! there's a hefty sale going on at the EU store knivesgndtools which doesn't apply to the Shaptons, don't want to wade into this civil war!


There's always next time. You'll be forgiven, for now.


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## JoBone (Nov 23, 2020)

daveb said:


> You know that neither are Damascus? The faux dammy layer exterior on these blades has nothing to do with a Damascus blade.



Hi Dave,
Will you clarify this statement?

The description I have from Shiro Kamo is 
*61 Layered SG2 Damascus*

Thanks


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## mpier (Nov 23, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> Thanks for the reassurance.
> 
> Incidentally, it's time to replace my stones and I've been eyeing up the Naniwa Pro 400, 800 and 3000 as my set, also using it to sharpen / restore some of my other family knives as my skill level improves. From the reading I've done apparently there's little point going above a certain grit level for both stainless steel and powdered steel like (not sure why, would love to understand better).
> 
> ...


I would go with the 400+800+3000 those are the three best NP stones IMO


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## JDC (Nov 23, 2020)

JayS20 said:


> I would go 400, 1000 and 3000 but you can also go 5000 Super/Specialty Stone. 400 only really needed for thinning and repair work imo.


I'd go np 400, 800, 3000. I have 800 and 3000 actually. 800 removes 325 diamond scratches easily; and 3000 takes care of 800 no problem. Very efficient setup. Only thing is 3000 is a bit too refined to me for cutting red meat, yet not ultimately refined for vegetables (it's more than adequate for cutting vegetables, just not impressively refined).


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## ModRQC (Nov 23, 2020)

To date I hardly could get some patina on mine Yoshi SKD core at all, counting onions garlic and tomatoes in preps. I’m not one to wipe down in between or run to wash immediately after.

Naniwa Pro 400 and 800 I can confirm they're quite good stones. The NP400 is not the fastest and I'd feel barenaked without a couple coarser alternatives, but it's also the most undemanding coarse stone I've tried, and it just doesn't dish. Good for mild thinning, maintenance, setting bevels, minor repairs or reprofiling. Leaves a relatively nice kasumi-like finish if you get some mud working for you. The NP800 is a smooth, versatile stone. You could stop many cheap SS right there, deburring and all. Leaves a keener edge than SP1K, with a level of refinement closing on SP2K.

Edit: ah yes I forgot to tell, NP400 can sharpen deburr and be refined to a nice butchery edge level - also a nice one stop option for cheap SS where you want lasting bite. Tremendous starting stone in a full sharpening progression with better steels - feels so smooth, works fast enough.


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## ap1487 (Nov 23, 2020)

Thanks team, I went with 400-800-3000 as that seems to be the consensus! Although by the looks of things I'll focus on getting good with the 800 before I even think about using the 400/3000


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## ModRQC (Nov 23, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> Thanks team, I went with 400-800-3000 as that seems to be the consensus! Although by the looks of things I'll focus on getting good with the 800 before I even think about using the 400/3000



Focus on what is needed for the knife. The NP800 is not slow, but if you're starting from dull, or need to set a relief on a thicker knife, start with the NP400. It's no steel cruncher, it will just be quite faster to get the primary edge.


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## ModRQC (Nov 23, 2020)

Finer stones are indeed a bit dangerous - you can mess a perfectly good edge there. If you're starting, I'd say you should focus on NP400 - NP800 and learn to do light stropping for final deburring with the NP3000 when you get some muscle memory down. Don't fret however: use your stones. At worst, you'll have to go back to the NP800, and then try your chance again on the NP3000.


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## ModRQC (Nov 23, 2020)

Remember: making mistakes forces you to pass more times on the stones. Passing more time on the stones means getting better, and getting to know them better. The latter means making less mistakes, and needing less time, in turn minimizing the chances for mistakes.

The more time you're on a stone, the more inclined you are to make mistakes with angle consistency. You're no machine. Hence why I said don't be shy to use your NP400 at all. Less strokes to get an edge means less potential errors, and a good primary means less strokes needed on the next step.


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## ap1487 (Nov 23, 2020)

I've been using a King combo stone on a cheap Vnox and I've always got it to an acceptable sharpness but I'm intimidated by the jump of using NP stones on a $300 blade. I'm worried it'll be like the jump from putting some crushed black pepper on your food to putting on some sliced Carolina Reapers!


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## ModRQC (Nov 23, 2020)

You'll be anxious for sure, but if experience serves, I know you will also treat it right. There's no going around sharpening the knife, so just start with lower pressure, and use the sharpie to make sure your angle is good and keeps that way. Augment pressure just as needed to get a burr. When you got the edge, you shouldn't need that level of pressure again for the next steps, go with about 50% pressure, until blade weight only in deburring.


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## ap1487 (Nov 23, 2020)

Thanks for the advice!


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## ap1487 (Nov 23, 2020)

JoBone said:


> Hi Dave,
> Will you clarify this statement?
> 
> The description I have from Shiro Kamo is
> ...


I'm sure there are many others who can explain it better than me but from what I understand, of the many ways to get a Damascus looking knife, one of them is to forge weld (read: heat to high temp then hammer together) your core steel (SG2 in this case) in between two layers of steel, often Iron, that has been laminated with a Damascus pattern. On the other hand an actual Damascus blade is one where the entire knife is comprised of the Damascus Steel, a composite steel where several layers of different steel have been repeatedly folded, welded, cut and reassembled creating that pattern, such that, theoretically, the cutting edge is also comprised of that pattern too. Of course the Damascus layering shouldn't impact the quality of the SG2 edge quality and subsequent knife performance (except for any stickiness issues sometimes caused by Damascus finishes). I hope that helps even a little but I'd look for better answers from people more experienced than me!


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## mpier (Nov 23, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> I've been using a King combo stone on a cheap Vnox and I've always got it to an acceptable sharpness but I'm intimidated by the jump of using NP stones on a $300 blade. I'm worried it'll be like the jump from putting some crushed black pepper on your food to putting on some sliced Carolina Reapers!





ap1487 said:


> I've been using a King combo stone on a cheap Vnox and I've always got it to an acceptable sharpness but I'm intimidated by the jump of using NP stones on a $300 blade. I'm worried it'll be like the jump from putting some crushed black pepper on your food to putting on some sliced Carolina Reapers!


Always best to work an old blade on your new stones anyhow, just dull it down and brake in those new stones and I think you’ll find the stones themselves will take away your anxiety and build your confidence. NP stones are beautiful to work with but you may need to slow it down just a little at first until you feel comfortable with the stones.


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## Barry's Knives (Nov 23, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> I'm sure there are many others who can explain it better than me but from what I understand, of the many ways to get a Damascus looking knife, one of them is to forge weld (read: heat to high temp then hammer together) your core steel (SG2 in this case) in between two layers of steel, often Iron, that has been laminated with a Damascus pattern. On the other hand an actual Damascus blade is one where the entire knife is comprised of the Damascus Steel, a composite steel where several layers of different steel have been repeatedly folded, welded, cut and reassembled creating that pattern, such that, theoretically, the cutting edge is also comprised of that pattern too. Of course the Damascus layering shouldn't impact the quality of the SG2 edge quality and subsequent knife performance (except for any stickiness issues sometimes caused by Damascus finishes). I hope that helps even a little but I'd look for better answers from people more experienced than me!


What you are describing here is coreless damascus. Damascus was originally a form of Wootz who's intricate (carbon?) banding was seen as a mark of quality - these blades had excellent toughness and edge retention. What we now commonly call damascus is an etched pattern that mimicks the aesthetics of this wootz steel and is created by folding different soft metals in the jigane and forge welding them to a harder core steel. Coreless damascus is when 2 hard steels are folded into each other, creating a pattern, but they comprise the whole knife and are not then welded to a core steel - hence core-less.
I'm not sure why Dave is criticising someone for wanting a knife that fits their aesthetic choices? that's pretty much what 80% of this forum is generally about.


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## ModRQC (Nov 23, 2020)




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## JoBone (Nov 23, 2020)

Barry's Knives said:


> What you are describing here is coreless damascus.



I got it, he was referring to core-less. To me, the post implied the cladding wasn’t layered, but purely etched on.

San Mai Damascus (suminagashi) cladding over core steel is what we expect from most imported Japanese ‘Damascus’ knives_. _The price gets pretty high otherwise.


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## ap1487 (Nov 23, 2020)

Ok I see, so if I got this right - essentially what we see as a Damascus finish from Japanese knives anywhere in the $200-1000 price range is as "real" a Damascus as one can get? They'll all be Sen Mai knives - Damascus steel cladded around a core steel. There's no "level above" that, until you get to significantly higher prices? Is that basically it?


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## M1k3 (Nov 23, 2020)

If you can get a Victorinox sharp, you can get a simpler carbon steel sharp. Also try this out when sharpening 
@TSF415


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## TSF415 (Nov 23, 2020)

M1k3 said:


> If you can get a Victorinox sharp, you can get a simpler carbon steel sharp. Also try this out when sharpening
> @TSF415



I watched it again


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## JoBone (Nov 23, 2020)

ap1487 said:


> Ok I see, so if I got this right - essentially what we see as a Damascus finish from Japanese knives anywhere in the $200-1000 price range is as "real" a Damascus as one can get ..



I would steer you back to either a Damascus or cool looking hammered stainless. You indicated that a dramatic look is important and you can get an excellent knife that fits your need for both style and performance.

The contenders from the early list are all good.

Kurosaki Fujin , Raijin
Yoshikane, Shiro Kamo and Kato

The smiths out of Takefu work closely with the Takefu Special Steel company, which created VG10, SG2 and Cobalt Special. I believe one of their strengths is working with those steels.

Yoshikane is based out of Sanjo City, the smiths in that region really excel with their spines and distal taper.

Personally, I would narrow it down to Yoshikane SLD black Damascus or Shiro Kamo SG2. I would just slightly lean toward Kamo San due to his age and experience. I like to get knives from the older smiths while they are producing and I believe he is still hammering those. 

If the flashy hammering is calling, pick the Raijin over the Senko. The Fujins are also really sweet...


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## M1k3 (Nov 24, 2020)

Shinko Kurokomo from KnS?


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## SeattleB (Nov 24, 2020)

Hello, I'm new to the forum. I'm fairly new to Japanese knives. I have one VG10 knife that I bought about 10 years ago and recently decided to try an artisan-forged knife. I know how to sharpen and have a fair amount of practice but would be considered a noob by this forum's standards.

It was good timing to see this thread. I just bought a Yoshikane SKD Hammered Gyoto. I did a simple paper test to see how the edge was out of the box. It push cut through thin magazine paper easily and could cut an "s" easily. But when I did a slicing cut I noticed that it caught on the paper like the edge was nicked. I looked closely and there are about a dozen very tiny chips in the edge. They aren't chips that go along the blade. They are vertical (perpendicular to the edge), about 0.25-0.50 mm high measured from the edge and only about 0.10 mm wide (along the edge).

One more thing. A few of the chips appear to be on only one side of the blade. Also, they are mostly in the middle third of the blade. 

Questions:

Is this typical with SKD steel?

I can't figure out how they got there. Maybe someone demo'd the knife in the store and wasn't too careful? Maybe someone was scraping cut food across the board?

Is it odd to have narrow microchips that go perpendicular to the edge?

Should I simply sharpen them out? Return it to the store? Did I get a dud?


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## M1k3 (Nov 24, 2020)

SeattleB said:


> Hello, I'm new to the forum. I'm fairly new to Japanese knives. I have one VG10 knife that I bought about 10 years ago and recently decided to try an artisan-forged knife. I know how to sharpen and have a fair amount of practice but would be considered a noob by this forum's standards.
> 
> It was good timing to see this thread. I just bought a Yoshikane SKD Hammered Gyoto. I did a simple paper test to see how the edge was out of the box. It push cut through thin magazine paper easily and could cut an "s" easily. But when I did a slicing cut I noticed that it caught on the paper like the edge was nicked. I looked closely and there are about a dozen very tiny chips in the edge. They aren't chips that go along the blade. They are vertical (perpendicular to the edge), about 0.25-0.50 mm high measured from the edge and only about 0.10 mm wide (along the edge).
> 
> ...


Sounds like some kind of wire edge folded over and falling apart or micro chips. Maybe start a new thread with some pictures?


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## SeattleB (Nov 24, 2020)

Nope, no wire edge. It would be difficult to take pictures without a special camera and macro lens. I'll give it a try though.


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## mpier (Nov 24, 2020)

If it was convenient and cost prohibitive I think I would return it, there’s no reason a new knife edge should be damaged. I guess you would probably have a hard time finding another one at this point unless you get lucky so you’ll have to way the options.


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## SeattleB (Nov 24, 2020)

The chipping is very hard to photograph with my meager iPhone camera, but here are the best photos that I could get.


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## JoBone (Nov 24, 2020)

Going back to the original topic, here’s a comparison pic of a few of the original options
This is 
Kato VG10, Kamo SG2 and Kurosaki Raiji


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## JDC (Nov 24, 2020)

Am I seeing pits? If so the knife was probably used before sending to you. They probably didn't dry the knife fully and left drops of water close to the edge.


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## JoBone (Nov 24, 2020)

The only Yoshikane I have is white, hopefully it helps
This is : 
Yoshi white, Kamo SG2, shigeki tanaka VG10 Damascus, and raijin


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## ap1487 (Nov 24, 2020)

Wow these images are incredibly useful! 

Any comments on performance? Any thoughts on taper and grind?



JoBone said:


> The only Yoshikane I have is white, hopefully it helps
> This is :
> Yoshi white, Kamo SG2, shigeki tanaka VG10 Damascus, and raijin
> View attachment 104136
> View attachment 104137


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## SeattleB (Nov 28, 2020)

I wanted to return to this discussion because my earlier posts might give someone the impression that that Yoshikane SKD Gyuto is a poor choice. I took the knife back to the retailer and we figured out what went wrong. I purchased their showroom display knife. They think the microchips were due to customer operator error. They offered to sharpen the knife for free. I got it back and it looks perfect and cuts perfectly. I'm looking forward to seeing how long that SKD retains its high level of sharpness.


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## madmotts (Dec 3, 2020)

SeattleB said:


> I wanted to return to this discussion because my earlier posts might give someone the impression that that Yoshikane SKD Gyuto is a poor choice. I took the knife back to the retailer and we figured out what went wrong. I purchased their showroom display knife. They think the microchips were due to customer operator error. They offered to sharpen the knife for free. I got it back and it looks perfect and cuts perfectly. I'm looking forward to seeing how long that SKD retains its high level of sharpness.


I guess some new knives have a bit of tendency to microchip and are fine after an initial sharpening. Something to do with construction- someone in the forums will explain this. I've had a couple of knives where this happened and sure enough after a sharpening they haven't since. 

I run my yoshi skds on balsa 1um and 0.5um strop for touch-up maintenance.


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