# Belt Sanders for Thinning, maybe?



## amithrain (Nov 30, 2020)

If you have to sand wood/remove lots of metal (thinning, grinding out chips, etc) would you guys recommend the use of belt sanders? Seen some threads saying that it might be a bad idea, but 
If so, would you rather use 1x30 or 4x36 (and do you have any recommendations?) Any tips about working with belt sanders are also appreciated. Thanks.


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## Dendrobatez (Nov 30, 2020)

4" is too wide for most jobs and 1" is too narrow which makes it hard to get an even finish. There's a couple 2x42s out there that are decent if you don't want to fork over the cash for a 2x72


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## Up_dog128 (Nov 30, 2020)

I do this when there is a very significant thinning that needs to take place and for when I essentially want to change the grind on a knife. I use a 1x30. You'll need to practice a good bit on some beaters before you put your sweet jknife to the belt. I don't suggest going below 150 or 240 grit until you really now what your doing, or you'll likely end up removing more material than you'd intended trying to chase out those deep scratches. Keep the blade wet so it doesn't overheat, and keep the tip off of the belt cuz you'll ruin the temper in an instant on steel that thin. And you must be careful to not let the cutting edge touch the belt inadvertantly, or you could easuly end up with a low spot in your profile. Lots of risks... You'll have to decide for yourself if the reward of moving steel that quickly is worth the risk of effing up your knife.


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## jacko9 (Nov 30, 2020)

I should add that one sharpener who uses belt sander a lot and one very expensive knife imbedded in his foot for a very painful experience - be careful with belt sanders yes they save time but.


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## esoo (Nov 30, 2020)

I've never done this kind of work, so take this from that perspective...

I'd want the belt going the other way. That belt is moving towards him, so if something catches, the blade is shooting at his stomach. I think @RDalman wears chainmail to protect himself from flying blades.


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## ian (Nov 30, 2020)

Seems like a no-brainer to use a belt sander if you're a professional knifemaker/modifier. Shehan’s "backwards" belt setup seems smart to me, but I don't know anything.




I just dream of belt sanders whenever I have to use my dremel to fix broken tips and grind down fingerguards for clients. Someday I will have a house with room for a belt sander and associated soundproofing. Today during a horrible wind and rainstorm I left my son inside on his iPad and went out to our cluttered 8x6 shed, stood in the 2x2ft available space and dremeled away on the spine of this knife, grabbing handfuls of soaking wet leaves periodically from outside the door to cool down the knife between dremelings. 

I've always been curious about the vertical belt vs horizontal belt difference. Horizontal running away from you seems safest to me, but a lot of people seem to use vertical belts too. Maybe they can weigh in?


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## drsmp (Nov 30, 2020)

Worksharp belt sander is great for rounding and reprofiling spines as well as major tip repairs. I take off the sharpening guide and rotate the belt as shown. To grind heels I use the roughest sandpaper wheel on a variable speed dremel with remote hand piece. Thin on waterstones.


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## inferno (Dec 1, 2020)

30-40€


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## ian (Dec 1, 2020)

drsmp said:


> Worksharp belt sander is great for rounding and reprofiling spines as well as major tip repairs. I take off the sharpening guide and rotate the belt as shown. To grind heels I use the roughest sandpaper wheel on a variable speed dremel with remote hand piece. Thin on waterstones.
> View attachment 104868



F***, maybe I should stop complaining about not having a belt sander and just buy one, neighbors be damned. I won’t use it for too long at once. What do y’all think of this one?



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08FCDS3VR/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2FFSSOTCO7LZH&psc=1


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## RDalman (Dec 1, 2020)

ian said:


> F***, maybe I should stop complaining about not having a belt sander and just buy one, neighbors be damned. I won’t use it for too long at once. What do y’all think of this one?
> 
> 
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08FCDS3VR/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A2FFSSOTCO7LZH&psc=1


Definately. They're not super loud in general either I'd say a regular vacuumcleaner is alot noisier. Just be prepared on dealing with the dust and it's not worse than that. And keep track on where the sparks go ofc


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## Gjackson98 (Dec 1, 2020)

I have tried all kinds of Hillbilly tools and ideas the past few years working with knife handles and cheap hunting knives.
In general there is no bad idea, everything you tried and failed can be simply taken as experiment to a better outcome. 
However do measure your risks before application and make sure safety first., we are playing with knives here. 

To answer your question, a belt sander will work on "sand wood/remove lots of metal" 
I agree with *Dendrobatez *4 x 72 is too wide, 1 x 72 is too narrow. 
However if that's your only options, they will get the job done. 
1 x 72 you need to be more patient. 4 x 72 you need to be more careful (you might not be able to get to certain angles or spot that you want).

Personally I have been using the 4 x 72 because that's what I came cross at a local tool shop when it was on sale for dirt cheap (I think 36dollars). 
Was it the best tool for the job? No 
Did I struggle at first? Yes 
Did I die? No


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## DavidPF (Jan 30, 2021)

Gjackson98 said:


> ... and make sure safety first., we are playing with knives here.


Safety first means don't try.

Safety third!


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## cotedupy (Jan 31, 2021)

As others have said - perfectly possible, but you'd want a fair bit of practice and to know how your belt sander behaves pretty well. I only really use mine for repairs, and modifying tangs, but I did use one quite a bit when making this knife: Sheep Shear Debas (?)

Though I actually found the disc sander on that easier to use that the belt.

Another, probably fairly obvious, thing to note if you've not done it before - metal absolutely kills sanding belts, so try to get ones that are specifically for metal, and get quite a few. And ideally do it outside if possible because of the sparks. (Says the person who does it inside a shed with a load of sawdust everywhere.)


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