# Catcheside - Mono steels.



## WillC (Oct 11, 2014)

I have been very focused on my Damascus and san mai work for sometime and regularly get inquires about mono steel knives. So with a considered approach I mean to make a few every now and then which will be for direct sale as and when they are produced via my mailing list and website.
In a current mono steel I want to offer a similar grind weight and geometry that I have come to offer in my custom damascus work so will be making some from thicker 4mm stock as well as some lighter in 3mm as the original Utility line were. 
The 4mm will be pitched as a higher grade product, giving you the benefit of my current geometry, heavier knife, thin geometry, the same finish and attention to detail will be given to the 3mm knives, you will just have a lighter knife, well mid weight, I would say close to 4mm is mid as well, anything over that being heavy. Handles will be made from what I have and can attain at a mid/reasonable price and from bits and pieces I have. So rarely two will be the same handle mixture, will only be using stabilised or very stable natural stock. I stress that these will all be completely hand made in shop and in no way mid-tech.
I will post pictures here as they get finished and detail geometry shots so you can see what Im talking about.

Here is the first in 4mm carbon 01. Will be about 3.8mm at the heel, very pleased the way it feels, and cuts like a custom.
It is a 230mm Gyuto, 52mm Height.

Lets get straight to the geometry, excuse the fluff on the blade, Macro lens is very unforgiving 





































I have price points in mind for both the 3mm and 4mm offerings and will publish a couple for sale soon via my mailing then place them for sale on my website.

Would love to know what you think of this,

Cheers
Will


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## Lefty (Oct 11, 2014)

Sounds and looks amazing!


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## chefcomesback (Oct 11, 2014)

Yes please


Sent from my iPhone using Kitchen Knife Forum


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## icanhaschzbrgr (Oct 11, 2014)

Looks pretty awesome to me! I bet there'll be a big demand for those. I'd get one myself if I could afford one.
:2thumbsup:


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## XooMG (Oct 11, 2014)

I think I'm out of the market for these kinds of knives at the moment but the one posted looks pretty awesome.


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## chinacats (Oct 11, 2014)

Good call Will. I think this series will be very successful.


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## WillC (Oct 11, 2014)

Thanks Guys, for your information, rough price point at this time will be £290 for 3mm 240mm knives and £60 more for the 4mm version, plus shipping but I may do a deal and split the postage on the first pair.
Just finished a 3mm version. (Thats in pounds sterling).

Will do some choil shot comparisons tomorrow side by side.


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## scotchef38 (Oct 11, 2014)

Look great Will,I prefer a heavier knife in a Gyuto the 4mm is very appealing.Do you plan to use different steels or just the 01?


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## Mangelwurzel (Oct 12, 2014)

These look amazing, Will! Definitely interested.


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## jigert (Oct 12, 2014)

If I were to buy one more knife this would definitely be it. Looks great Will! Hope I have some funds when one appears.


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## WillC (Oct 12, 2014)

Thanks Guys very much, thats encouraging. I am enthusiastic about these. 

As for steel, I feel the carbon offering is superb for an everyday use knife. Incidentally the steel is not exactly 01 it is 
DIN Grade..1.2510 (100MnCrW1) Nearest AISI Standard ............01 Hardness .......................230 HB
Chemical Composition
C Carbon ............. 0.90 - 1.05% Si Silicon .............. 0.15 - 0.35% Mn Manganese ...... 1.00 - 1.20% Cr Chromium ........ 0.50 - 0.70%
V Vanadium ......... 0.05 - 0.15%
W Tungsten .......... 0.50 - 0.70%
P Phosphorous ... max. 0.035% S Sulphur ............ max. 0.035%

A close relative with less silicon on paper. Grain break was impressive, very fine. The only finest I have seen is stainless 14c28n, but on a very very thin edge even at full 62/63 h&c hardness you have to be a little careful with it, it would fold on bone it is so fine grained, yet if you really pushed it to destruction would chip across a thicker section, it has impressive characteristics though yet can be a real pain to keep straight during HT/temper/cryo procedures. 
01 is still the perfect balance for me so robust to folding or chipping and among the finest carbide, with correct Ht of course at the cost of being a carbon steel.
But 14c28n stainless could work superbly in 4mm. But this year and into next I have too many commitments to get through, so will keep these simple, not make any promises on them and just keep them as and when, trying to have a flow of blanks HT'd ready made to finish one or two when I can of an evening or whenever, Something to develop with time.


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## mc2442 (Oct 12, 2014)

Got a 270mm gyuto (utility line?) knife for my brother a while ago....would love to get him a smaller size from you as it is probably a bit long for most to get used to


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## masibu (Oct 13, 2014)

Oh man, this is exactly the type of thing im in the market for


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## WillC (Oct 14, 2014)

Thanks Guys here is some more with geometry comparisons between the two thicknesses.

































These two will be up for sale later. I think I will add a form to the shop page to get a gauge on how many may want one in the next few months or so and in what thickness so I can buy the right amount of stock. There won't be custom options on these, it will just be a form to gauge interest, maybe I can try and produce 4 -6 per month as I can fit the work in and in a few evenings. I have shot a video of both cutting which I hope will show the subtle difference. As I thought they both cut well, but the difference in weight gives a different feel with less force needed in most cases wit the heavier knife, really comes down to personal preference and or budget.


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## Von blewitt (Oct 14, 2014)

Got the email... Trying hard to restrain myself


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## rami_m (Oct 14, 2014)

Von blewitt said:


> Got the email... Trying hard to restrain myself



Me too!


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## theo59 (Oct 14, 2014)

+ 1 !!


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## WillC (Oct 14, 2014)

They sold rapidly, thanks Guys!


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## XooMG (Oct 14, 2014)

Yep... I woke up, saw the email, decided to peek in case I was going to make an irrational decision...and they were gone.


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## Pcol2000 (Oct 20, 2014)

Signing up for the newsletter. Don't know why I hadn't before


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## Lefty (Oct 20, 2014)

What the? I'm not on the newsletter? Crappola!


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## WillC (Dec 11, 2014)

These were from last week, as always notification of new stock goes out to my mailing list. Should have two more 4mm version carbon Gyutos done this weeks and some san mai stuff coming out over the holidays.
Really enjoying seeking out every bit of performance I can from the material thickness on these. They are ground to 0.1mm on the edge and thinned on the stones from there, tested in the kitchen before final finish work. So yep the are thin, yet retain that magic geometry.

I see a lot of heel shots of thin knives that have been sharpened at quite an acute angle, after a few sharpenings it ruins the geometry with a nasty hesitation on cutting. Heavier knives especially have to be kept thin, so I establish a very low sharpening angle on these, knife only just held off the stone for the user to follow. A barely visible microbevel is put on at the end. Its nothing drastic, all done with a Takashimi or a 5k chosera. But it should give the end user something to follow which will maintain thinness for a long time to come before further compound work is necessary.

Couple of pics from last weeks knives.









You can bearly see the change in angle into the edge which is as it should be.









This is a 3mm Suji, thickness and geometry is almost identical from the base of the choil to the 4mm. 4mm carries more weight on the spine. The weight alone gives the different feeling to cutting. 





Thanks All, you can join my mailing list in my shop or contact page on my website.

http://www.catchesidecutlery.com/shop.html

If you have difficulty just let me know and I will add you manually.

Cheers

Will


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## WillC (Feb 19, 2015)

Here is an example of the 2015 profile in a 235mm Gyuto, Has a little more belly and comes parallel with the spine towards the heel, really nice blend of gentle curve/flat heel and belly.




A further subtle change on the next four blades that will come up is I have returned to forge tapering with the mono steel. It just works out very well with the heavier steel I am working in. The change is very subtle, but aesthetically pleasing in that you get a nice swift taper from the thickest part as the tang enters the handle diagonally into the heel, then gentle taper to the tip. So really it just gives me more control and fits best with my skill set. But it does give a nice aesthetic and that extra strength flowing into the tang. Subtle but pleasing changes, and all contributes to the Combination of a dead stable stiff blade combined with thin geometry.

Some pics to illustrate what I mean as forged and heat treated....





As foged thicknesses before grinding.









Next 4 blades up two 270mm and two 210's 





Another thought on handles is that I have some makings left for the old Utility line handles which were very basic, blackwood ferrule and african rosewood. Sometimes I get asked if I do blade only and while I would not provide a blade without handle in most cases, this could be a compromise doing the odd knife with basic handle, burnt in not epoxied, so as to provide a working finished knife with the option to change handles later if desired, for budding handle makers or those who might like to install a Japanese handle or one made by one of KKfs Handle guys.

Basic handle in the foreground, will likely install this on one of the 210's. With a discounted price. Others glued up are all premium burls and buffalo horn. Would like your thoughts and feedback on this idea. Cheers

Will


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## WillC (Feb 19, 2015)

Forgot the pic.... duh


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## chinacats (Feb 19, 2015)

I think the options are a great idea. I also like the idea of having the handles burnt in so that while thinning it can be removed. Looking forward to seeing pics of these all put together.

Cheers


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## Bill13 (Feb 19, 2015)

I can't believe you are using a Milwaukee radio - or is it just for charging your batteries? Those things are the bane of my existence on jobsites!

Back on topic, those are really sweet knives!!! What is the white - red spacer?


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## WillC (Feb 19, 2015)

Thanks Fellas  Ha ha , I used to be much louder with an old Pa system , competing with the power hammer, so the Milwaukee was a sensible downgrade to keep the neighbours happy, and it seems quite content to be constantly blasted with dust and chucked around 

The White spacers are a rather nice ivory substitute, some kind of GPS blend, they kindly added some kind of scent as well so it smells like coconut when you grind it, The Red/purple In the top is a slice of dyed maple burl.


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## skiajl6297 (Feb 23, 2015)

Will - I just finished a weekend of putting the Mono to work (home user) and all I can say is wow. Gorgeous (as expected) but also a fantastic performer. I took apart a few bags of onion (after getting a base patina from some other onion, lemon, garlic, and beef), and it performed admirably. Nice heavy/sturdy blade, but still very nimble. I really like the '15 profile as well. These mono steel knives are tremendous, and I am thrilled to have one. Thanks again for doing these!


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## WillC (Feb 24, 2015)

After all the hard work on these thats great to hear:doublethumbsup:


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## WillC (Mar 19, 2015)

Last couple of mono's. Quite a bit on the go at the moment but added these yesterday and will get around to finishing a couple more by the end of the month.





And some real close up work with my macro lens.....left the tripod in the workshop so excuse the background blur in some....

To give you some idea of scale as everything looks huge through macro Spine at handle measures 4.2mm over the heel around 3.8, 1cm from the tip 0.8mm.
And on the heel, halfway down is around 2mm, 1cm from the edge just over 1mm at the heel tapping from there. This should give you an idea of the extreme geometry and keeping just the right amount of meat in the blade at the apex of the change in angle...around 12mm up from the edge, to allow convexity right to the edge allowing release without wedge. You can see it keeps this strength and a degree of convexity into the tip, until the very point, so there is no flex anywhere. The edge geometry is controlled at every finishing grit by visiting the stones in-between each grit. While painstaking I have found this the only way to repeatably and consistently achieve this thinness at the edge, while maintaining the convexity. This leaves very little to do on the stones when the knife is finished, I can usually go straight to a Takashima stone where I set a thinning bevel around 6-7 degrees per side, (this helps the user and gives a bevel to follow when ever the knife is sharpened to maintain a thin edge without any further thinning further up for a long time.) and a microbevel on this. Enough babble...Hopefully the photos clearly show these details for you.

Spine... Forging helps here in this larger stock...





Heel, remember for scale the apex at about 12mm from the edge up measures approx 1.2mm at this heel section.





This shows the apex clearer, and the low angle thinning bevel set at the end. 





Tip remember for scale about 0.8mm 1cm from the tip.





Very close with complimentary fabric fluff!





Thanks for looking


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## Mangelwurzel (Mar 19, 2015)

Superb work as always, Will!


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## ImpossibleGermany (Jun 5, 2015)

These are stunning! Love the burl handles with the horn too - really clean looking.


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## WillC (Jan 30, 2016)

Hello All, some updates on the standard mono lines. I will continue to do some as premium, with premium handle materials and some as Utility line with simpler handle materials. Blades will be the same for each line.

Im always tweaking my process and some key evolutions of the finishing process I will share here and it will help you in techniques to keep these knives as thin as they deserbve to be kept at the edge, not only that but maintain the all important convexity. 

Here is one after grinding, its been down to 150 grit, then a bevel set several times with more thinning in-between on the belt. When the edge is even and thin enough that it flexes at the very edge good to continue to hand finishing.

The first step is to go across the grain on the edge. I use an em 180 grit stone, these are a ceramic based small stone usually silicon carbide abrasive in a ceramic binder. Good quality ones have a nice binding material cut very flat and quickly whilst making a slight slurry.





I never use paper abrasives near the edge of the knife, it can create and follow ripples stones cut flat and true and give you an even bevel. The geometry at the lower bevel is made up of two angles blended, known as a compound bevel, its essential to the cutting performance to keep this blend of convexity and thinness at the very edge. The easiest way to do this is to think of the bevel as the upper and lower portion thin into the lower and blend into the upper, like on single bevel knives.









This gives you a vague idea of the overall geometry everything thinning evenly from here in proportion to the spine.





After the 180 grit edm stone I use something around 800 grit, to finish just the lower bevel, almost sharpening into the edge.

When this is complete I finish with paper abrasives to 400 grit but never on the lower of the lower bevel only blending to about halfway down it. I touch up the edge portion again after with an 800 grit stone, all heel to toe direction at this stage.

When the knife is all finished and handled I hit the stones with it at home. Only a 1000 grit stone is necessary to thin the final part, and always blend into the angle above. My final stone for the edge and the blending is my Takashima, its very forgiving to use for this type of subtle blending. Im now using the stone in the traditional direction as you would usually sharpen. 









This is how I can achieve such consistency now in these and how I get them to cut so nicely. You can try this technique on your own knives, I hope it helps  All 2016 Catcheside monos will come stone ready like this.

Here is the first one for 2016, also with the new Heat treatment allowing a very nice edge stable 64hrc

You can find it in my Shop on my site now


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## chinacats (Jan 30, 2016)

Love these monos...more work in finishing than I would have thought.:knife:


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## Mute-on (Jan 30, 2016)

A study in progressive and uniform convexity. Thank you for the detailed explanation of your process, Will. 

I'm glad I purchased one of your earlier monos when I could. Incredible craftsmanship. 

Cheers,

J


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## WillC (Jan 31, 2016)

Thanks very much chaps


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## JohnnyChance (Jan 31, 2016)

Very thorough yet concise run down Will. A lot of knife makers new to kitchen knives could benefit from this.


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## WillC (Feb 1, 2016)

Thanks Johnny, yep I reckon the edge finishing techniques are essential when you get down to a certain thinness. The tendency when you first start is to try and get right down to thinness on the belt. But this has two major downfalls. It does not leave an even finish, there will be slight dips here and there, which will only be accentuated by using paper abrasives. This means you end up having to set a larger bevel at the end and then having to thin into it. Belts can also flatten the edge geometry too much. Thin behind the edge is a common misconception, looking at the area 5mm above the edge and believing that if its thin here it will cut well. Where as in fact you need some meat around 10-12mm behind the edge and convexity all the way into the edge. Its all a balancing act with the weight of the knife however. Its most important to me to have fuller geometry with the edge finishing at 0, no bevel maybe just a microbevel if you like. And most importantly that this geometry can be maintained easily all the way up this lower bevel. This really is what I'm trying to show here, that these are stone ready, no nasty surprises when you come to sharpen and even thin them right up the lower bevel. Also helpful tips for some alternative products to look at when thinning any knife at home. The EDM stones are great, they are designed to make a flat finish on hard castings, also a handy size for edge work, heel to tip direction. Then using a softer stone to blend visually, if you can get them the Japanese Wa stones are ideal, very quick and leave a nice hazy finish.
So for home thinning if you have allot to remove, I would break out that diamond plate to remove the material, then cut across that heel to tip direction with an edm stone, 180 grit then 320 grit, from here you can hit the stones as usual, it will be a very true finish.


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## WillC (Feb 2, 2016)

Here is a Video of me prepping dinner with the 180mm mighty Gyuto. Its a one shot wonder so excuse my gabbling. Cam is on the chopping board so sound is really good and exaggerated therefore you can hear the cuts really well plenty of tough veg including a squash.

[video=youtube;6dCZIXpTRpI]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6dCZIXpTRpI&feature=youtu.be[/video]


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## Mrmnms (Feb 2, 2016)

Will, do you use the EDM stones like finger stones? Do you use lubricant with them? I was starting to think i understood a bit about geometry and bevels. Then I read your posts.


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## WillC (Feb 3, 2016)

Hey Mike, yes but there is a bit more to get hold of, they are about 100mm x 12 x 5mm and I break those into 3 smaller pieces. Sticking one to a piece of wood could be kinder on the old fingers


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## Butters (Feb 4, 2016)

Thanks Will, love these grinding and geometry tips.


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