# Reshaping western handle



## sharptools (Jul 31, 2017)

I have the bolsterless version of Hiromoto Honyaki which I have spent significant time thinning and making convex. I am now moving onto giving the handle some love which I am looking to reshape and refinish it. The handle is made of basic unfinished rosewood.

Something I should mention is that I live in an apartment and have no space for power tools of any sort and will basically have to do everything by hand.

Does anyone have recommendations on what set up I should have? Any tips and tricks which may make my life easier would also be appreciated.

Thanks!


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## Matus (Jul 31, 2017)

Well, a photo would help. But you want some basic way to clamp the blade to a table, then some 80/180/320/600 (give or take) sandpaper. I would add steel wool, but not in an apartment. It makes a lot of nasty steel dust. maybe even some finer D-shaped (cross section) file - depending how much you want to change to original handle.

Some pieces of wood - a short rod with a diameter of some 10 - 15 mm, a small rectangular piece, etc - to use as a support for the sandpaper while sanding. In the later stages of sanding (320 and 600) you may cut a narrow, long piece of the sandpaper, tape/glue it to some flexible material (piece of jeans cloth, etc.) and use it manually as a sanding belt. For finish you need to decide whether you just use some board butter, or something like Tung oil, or TruOil.

You will want some tape wrap the blade in. I have made great experience with the wide, thick, orange Tesa - leaves nearly no residue.

I am sure others will chime in with more/different ideas. There surely are many ways to do this.

Oh, and get some basic respirator, you do not want to breath wooden dust.


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## malexthekid (Jul 31, 2017)

Depending on what shaping you want to do a rounded smooth or Bastard file may male it quicker and/or easier than dowel and sandpaper. But if it is detail worn without much material removal than Matus's suggestions are probably close to right.


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## Yet-Another-Dave (Jul 31, 2017)

sharptools said:


> I have the bolsterless version of Hiromoto Honyaki which I have spent significant time thinning and making convex. I am now moving onto giving the handle some love which I am looking to reshape and refinish it. The handle is made of basic unfinished rosewood.
> 
> Something I should mention is that I live in an apartment and have no space for power tools of any sort and will basically have to do everything by hand.
> 
> ...



You don't (obviously, at least) say where you are. That can affect terminology and availability. (Lesson learned try to describe drywall screen to Triggaaar.) Also some idea of the shape you have (photos!) and a description of how much you want to change it.

First thought is what Matus said, a sequence of sandpaper grades. Though I'd suggest a patio or balcony. For larger changes fine rasps or wood files come to mind. (Metal files can work, but are often finer than used for wood shaping.) And of course, blades can remove more material faster, but all that depends on what you're trying to achieve and how much budget you have for tools for this.


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## JayGee (Jul 31, 2017)

for shaping handles with hand tools - I've found these very useful:

https://www.japanesetools.com.au/products/shinto-saw-rasp


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## inzite (Aug 1, 2017)

thinning the bolster less version? From what I recall, they aren't exactly thick either, especially that lovely thin tip section.


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## sharptools (Aug 1, 2017)

Matus said:


> Well, a photo would help. But you want some basic way to clamp the blade to a table, then some 80/180/320/600 (give or take) sandpaper. I would add steel wool, but not in an apartment. It makes a lot of nasty steel dust. maybe even some finer D-shaped (cross section) file - depending how much you want to change to original handle.
> 
> Some pieces of wood - a short rod with a diameter of some 10 - 15 mm, a small rectangular piece, etc - to use as a support for the sandpaper while sanding. In the later stages of sanding (320 and 600) you may cut a narrow, long piece of the sandpaper, tape/glue it to some flexible material (piece of jeans cloth, etc.) and use it manually as a sanding belt. For finish you need to decide whether you just use some board butter, or something like Tung oil, or TruOil.
> 
> ...



I will try to post some photos later today.



inzite said:


> thinning the bolster less version? From what I recall, they aren't exactly thick either, especially that lovely thin tip section.



I don't know about others but mine needed work. The distal taper is good but overall it was not thin behind the edge in any way.


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## inzite (Aug 1, 2017)

sharptools said:


> I will try to post some photos later today.
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know about others but mine needed work. The distal taper is good but overall it was not thin behind the edge in any way.



probably variations I bet. I only have the 180mm so I can't speak of the 240 variants but the front part of the blade is sufficiently thin behind the edge especially if you take the effort to tackle it lightly every sharpening.


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## stuplarosa (Aug 2, 2017)

The tool I find most useful for that kind of work is a double ended tapered rasp. It looks a lot like this one:

http://www.dilegnosupply.com/_images/Files-Rasps-Shapers/Grobet%20Detail%20File.JPG


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## Yet-Another-Dave (Aug 2, 2017)

stuplarosa said:


> The tool I find most useful for that kind of work is a double ended tapered rasp....



I'm not sure a $42 tool would be my choice for a one-time project. Maybe sharptools can weigh in on what he's looking for? (If handle shaping is his new hobby, that combo rasp would be great for several to many handles. OTOH- If he's working on several a day, looking at a set of Auriou or Logiers hand cut rasps would probably be even better.)


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## scott.livesey (Aug 13, 2017)

get some 1" or 2" wide sanding rolls and 2 or 3 sanding sponges, various grit, clamp knife down and off you go. use lengths of roll to rough out shape, sponges to refine and finish. sponges are great for rounding edges as they will form around the edge and sand all sides.


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## merlijny2k (Aug 15, 2017)

Is wood dust really that bad? I never bothered with it while hand sanding but now you got me worried.


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## Matus (Aug 15, 2017)

Any kind of fine dust is bad for your lungs + many natural and man made materials can be irritating or even poisonous. So unless you do wet sanding, you better wear some sort of respirator.


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## malexthekid (Aug 15, 2017)

Sorry but can I point out that for a one off sanding project that you are more likely to do more damage to you lungs walking around a city than in that project.

Where it makes a difference is if you do long periods of sanding often and expose your lungs to that 

Respirators aren't a bad idea. But it ain't a necessity for a single project


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## Matus (Aug 15, 2017)

I agree with what malexthekid said above - unless one works with something that can cause irritation or worse. So if one is going to go 'free style', it may be a good idea to check the materials to be sanded online.


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