# Rehandle Vid



## ThEoRy

[video=youtube_share;zMaGJl4YPOQ]http://youtu.be/zMaGJl4YPOQ[/video]

Enjoy.


----------



## knyfeknerd

Nice 1 Rick. I really appreciate you doing this. I hope you keep it up in all your future rehandles. It's very cool and generous of you. This is another form of spreading the knowledge.
Keep it going brother!


----------



## ThEoRy

I don't have many western handled knives that need a rehandle left... just the yo-deba. Maybe it's time to buy a Hiromoto gyuto?


----------



## knyfeknerd

ThEoRy said:


> I don't have many western handled knives that need a rehandle left... just the yo-deba. Maybe it's time to buy a Hiromoto gyuto?


Yes, please do!
It's time for you to pop your "wa-cherry" too! 
You're hooked man, you're screwed just like me!!!
Check out woodcraft for some new equipment too, I've gotten some killer deals from them on some decent stuff. Really good sales sometimes.


----------



## ThEoRy

Yeah, I need a 4" belt and at least a 9" disk before I can attempt a wa. Plus I can use the 4" belt for menial sharpening and stock removal. Anyway, mission accomplished for the most part I'm happy with the results but there's always room for improvement.


----------



## chinacats

Thanks Rick that's awesome! As to the spacer, is that for looks or is it there to serve another purpose?

Cheers!


----------



## El Pescador

Sakabone magic! Love it!


----------



## GlassEye

Looks good. Though, I really like the stock handle on mine.


----------



## apicius9

Very nice! And a whole handle in 12:40, that's impressive  For some reason I still haven't gotten around to making a Western handle after a few hundred wa handles, but it's on my list and I held back one knife for it. And that's pretty much what I pictured it to work like, so thanks for the confirmation. I just may be more messy than you, so I usually wear thin latex gloves whenever I use epoxy or I end up gluing myself to something... What was the finish you applied at the end?

Stefan


----------



## miketayl0r

great video! maybe a list of equipment and products used in this video? looking to get into rehandling myself. not sure where to start


----------



## don

Nicely done! The video is a great watch, thanks for sharing it.


----------



## zitangy

Thanks and much appreciated. its the time and effort to video it ,your kind generosity and willingness to share.

I am less clueless now. you make it less daunting

Rgds
d


----------



## Dave Martell

It's very cool of you to make this vid Rick. Thanks for sharing with us!


----------



## Lefty

That's awesome, Rick! I always get nervous working around the bolster, but you made it look easy! As for wa handles, I've done one without a 4" belt and it was pure hell.


----------



## Mrmnms

Thank you Rick, well done.


----------



## Dream Burls

Hey Rick. I just got a call from Steven Speilberg and he told me he's interested in making a feature film out of your short. Great job and thanks for sharing.


----------



## stereo.pete

Theory, do you mind PM'ing me the following
-Where you get your spacer material?
-What Epoxy you are using?
-What type of belt grinder are you using?
-Are you laying sandpaper on your diamond plate?

Thanks and awesome video, I will definitely be using your techniques on my knife project.


----------



## RobinW

stereo.pete said:


> Theory, do you mind PM'ing me the following
> -Where you get your spacer material?
> -What Epoxy you are using?
> -What type of belt grinder are you using?
> -Are you laying sandpaper on your diamond plate?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks and awesome video, I will definitely be using your techniques on my knife project.




I'm interested in the same things...
And to Theory, Great vid, thanks for doing it!


----------



## ThEoRy

stereo.pete said:


> Theory, do you mind PM'ing me the following
> -Where you get your spacer material?
> -What Epoxy you are using?
> -What type of belt grinder are you using?
> -Are you laying sandpaper on your diamond plate?
> 
> Thanks and awesome video, I will definitely be using your techniques on my knife project.




Spacer and pins from Jantz supply

Devcon 2 ton 30 min epoxy

Harbour Freight 1x30 belt grinder with belts from 60 grit to 320

Yes but if I had a 4" belt grinder or a large disk grinder I wouldn't have to do it manually this way.


----------



## RobinW

How do you put the finishing o nhte wood? It's gotta be above 320 grit right? 

I used 1200 grit wet/dry on a handle from Stefan and i had to break out sub micron polishing paste and after that a felt wheel on a dremel to get even close to his finish...


----------



## Dusty

Thanks for sharing that video Rick. That is one of the more enjoyable knife videos i've seen in a long time: I think mostly because it covers really well something I've wanted to do for a long time and haven't gotten to yet - and the knives look great.


----------



## ThEoRy

RobinW said:


> How do you put the finishing o nhte wood? It's gotta be above 320 grit right?
> 
> I used 1200 grit wet/dry on a handle from Stefan and i had to break out sub micron polishing paste and after that a felt wheel on a dremel to get even close to his finish...



I take the belt grinder from 60 grit up to 320 then hand sanding from 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 then I drop back down to 1500 on the micromesh pad and progress to 12000 grit. Then I finish by simply hand buffing with mineral oil then a quick mineral oil buff on the grinder with the felt belt. Stefan finishes entirely different. I'm not sure what he uses, he told me once long ago but I forgot. I'd like to seal my handles better and I think his finishing technique may be what's needed.


----------



## apicius9

Usually, I only sandup to 1200 grit, only very few woods benefit from going higher if I later use compounds for buffing them anyway. I apply a mix of tung oil and shellac, the number of layers depends on the wood and my mood, rubbing them down with steel wool between layers. The stabilized wood doesn't need the finish, but I find the oil lets the wood colors pop out a bit more. Buffing with white and pink compounds, then by hand with a cotton cloth. 

Stefan


----------



## GlassEye

apicius9 said:


> Usually, I only sandup to 1200 grit, only very few woods benefit from going higher if I later use compounds for buffing them anyway. I apply a mix of tung oil and shellac, the number of layers depends on the wood and my mood, rubbing them down with steel wool between layers. The stabilized wood doesn't need the finish, but I find the oil lets the wood colors pop out a bit more. Buffing with white and pink compounds, then by hand with a cotton cloth.
> 
> Stefan



What is your ratio of tung oil to shellac? I did a wa handle with several layers of shellac trying to combat the stupid humidity here, but I don't really like the feeling.


----------



## apicius9

I use about 50:50. The shellac mostly works as an accelerant for the tung oil to dry. Bark River Knives uses boiled linseed oil instead of tung oil, same idea. 

Stefan


----------



## Keith Sinclair

Thanks Rick,good to see your process.Your idea of using grid lines flattening scales will try it.What surface are you using to flatten the scale.When I trace out the scale on the wood,I cut the scale close to the line first,that way not so much time on the sander.You must be using Carbide drill bits to go thru the tang.

Been using Stephens 50/50 mix,it pops out the wood & buffs up nice.


----------



## ThEoRy

Thanks! The sandpaper is wrapped around a diamond plate but only because I don't have a wide enough belt or a disk grinder which would be a ton easier. I've done it the other way as well on my first rehandle where I roughed out the shape prior to fitting. That time I also glued the liner to the scale prior to fitting as well. Next time I think I should drill a few extra holes in the tang just so more epoxy can create a stronger total bond. Don't know why I didn't remember that prior to gluing.


----------



## Keith Sinclair

Thanks,I have had trouble trying to level on my sander(no disk)edges feather which makes it worse.I would rather do it by hand been using a 60 grit on flat surface & a small carpenter square.Deff. going wt. your grid lines next handle,see how that works.Nice clamps on your drill press.I picked a cheap Ryobe drill press at Home Depot.I think some of the carbide bits I bought to drill thu the tang for 5/16 center mosaic pin & 1/4 screw pins(bought several of each fr. Drill Bit Warehouse) in total cost almost as much as the cheap drillpress.

I am kind of learning this as I go along,figuring it out on my own,so it's nice to get a tip,one of these days I'll post some pics of my open air garage mini shop.I have to keep things covered up wt. thick garbage bags as it's been raining alot lately.


----------



## 3200+++

thank you very much for the video, very interesting and skillful.


----------



## ThEoRy

Thank you, I appreciate that. Still learning as I go.


----------



## kannamaster

Nice job. I have the same knife but I like the handle actually - at least from a functional standpoint. Still your handle adds a new dimension to the knife and personalizes it. Something to think about. Thanks for the info. One question: When you tap in the pins do you have to worry about blowout on the underside?


----------



## ThEoRy

I have had some minor "chipping" around the pinhole but it's usually not a problem since the epoxy fills any voids and then I grind it down and sand it flush anyway.


----------



## kannamaster

Thanks, Ill keep that in mind when I try my first handle soon.


----------



## crunchy

Great video. Very informative


----------

