# Need a little help with wa handles



## David Metzger (Nov 30, 2011)

I need to make a few wa handles. I don't think I will have a problem making the sides with a disc grinder, but any suggestions would be appreciated. The bigger problem I have is drilling the deep slot in the handle with my drill press. 

I probably can make 5 holes in a row but what is the method used to clean out between the holes? 

Most will have a decorative ferrule and Cocobolo for the main wood. Tang is 7/64 thick, do I use 1/8 drill bit? Should i use a pin, epoxy, burn or just tight fit or some other technique?

Thanks David


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## apicius9 (Nov 30, 2011)

We all have different techniques. Marko knows best what to do if you want to use a horn 'ring' as the ferrule. If you just epoxy together solid pieces, I find it much easier to predrill them before gluing them together. Shorter spindle travel on the drill press, straigher holes. For the tang slot, drilling slowly and making sure everything is square if you drill for a tight fit is important. The easiest way to open the row of holes into a slot is with a small needle file or rasp, but many of them are around 1/8", so that will be tight. They are definitely handy if you file the slot for an exact fit of the tang. If you don't mind epoxying in the tang, you can make the inner slot a little wider and just add a little more epoxy. Maybe not as elegant, but still a safe fit and a bit easier. 

HTH,

Stefan


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## l r harner (Nov 30, 2011)

i drill multi holes and then lightly push the drill bit side to side to wallow out the webbing between the holes


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## David Metzger (Dec 1, 2011)

Thanks guys, I will probably use the wallow and mini file method combo and decide about epoxy etc based on the fit. I would like the handle to be easily replaceable.


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## Marko Tsourkan (Dec 2, 2011)

David, 
in the absence of a milling machine you are left with a few options. A file or a drill press would work. I once tried to break the webbing with a flat narrow metal and ended up splitting the handle, so a chisel approach won't work. 

You can also try handle broaches they would work faster than a file. 
http://www.riversidemachine.net/item561596.ctlg

M


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## l r harner (Dec 2, 2011)

wait i mill out the face of the handles but hog out the main part of the handle as it will be back filled with epoxy so longe as the face is well millid and a nice tight fit up you can be a hair sloppy on the back end


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## jmforge (Dec 10, 2011)

Marko, those are probably too thick for what most folks on here will be doing. I switched from the Uncle Al 3/16 to the very sleek and slender broaches made by John Perry and in order to wedge the 1/8 inch model in, you pretty much have to start out with a 3/16 round hole or have a way to make a 1/8 hole oval shape all the way to the bottom.


Marko Tsourkan said:


> David,
> in the absence of a milling machine you are left with a few options. A file or a drill press would work. I once tried to break the webbing with a flat narrow metal and ended up splitting the handle, so a chisel approach won't work.
> 
> You can also try handle broaches they would work faster than a file.
> ...


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## Marko Tsourkan (Dec 16, 2011)

******* said:


> Marko, those are probably too thick for what most folks on here will be doing. I switched from the Uncle Al 3/16 to the very sleek and slender broaches made by John Perry and in order to wedge the 1/8 inch model in, you pretty much have to start out with a 3/16 round hole or have a way to make a 1/8 hole oval shape all the way to the bottom.



I got to admit, I meant to recommend Jon Perry in first order, but I forgot his name. I have seen his broaches and they look really nice. They work pretty well too. 

M


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## jmforge (Dec 16, 2011)

I had to wait a while for mine a couple of years back because John was very busy and didn't have time to make a batch of them for several months. If he has any available, I would snap one up. IIRC, they are made from D2 and mine are still pretty sharp after a couple of years of hogging out wood and stag. I have a goodly number of Uncle Al's tools and for they most part, they are top drawer stuff. I love his tungsten carbide faced filing guide and his laddering dies, but his handle broach is not a very good design. the cutting head is threaded onto the shaft and aside from being a bit to thick, it unscrews at most inopportune times.


Marko Tsourkan said:


> I got to admit, I meant to recommend Jon Perry in first order, but I forgot his name. I have seen his broaches and they look really nice. They work pretty well too. There is a good reason that John's broaches were twice as much 4 years ago.
> 
> M


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## David Metzger (Dec 16, 2011)

Thanks for all your help everyone. I will look into ordering one of these tools. D


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