# pro teak cutting board



## clintonior

I'm new to the Forum. A bit about me I used to cook in my 20's for about 13 years prep and line mostly, since then I'm a desk jocky .. but I cook at home.. I've currently upgraded to a Dexter 48912 12 inch Chef knife. 10 in chef kantna and full katana set aswell. I'm looking at a teak 24x18x1 1/2 cutting board to pair with the 12in chefs knife and before I make any purchase I'd like some advise. Is this board excessive for a standard counter top and any reccomendations please.


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## chinacats

Is it end grain?


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## aboynamedsuita

18x24 is fairly large but there is nothing wrong with that if you have the counter and storage space, and think you'll make use of the extra area. Not so sure about teak personally, I thought I remember reading that it can be hard on your knives, although it does look nice. If you one day decide to get into the thinner ground Japanese knives you may have regrets. Maple, walnut and cherry are three of the commonly recommended woods; end grain is generally advantageous over edge grain


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## Zwiefel

I bought a 12X18 as a replacement for my 18X24 a couple of years ago. I very much regret that choice and wish I had gotten the same board in 18X24, the difference in total area is quite large: 216 square inches versus 432....that's a whole 12X18 board of DIFFERENCE. If you have the space, absolutely get the bigger board.


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## clintonior

I'm still looking storage might be the only real concern . I've heard wood is a bit more sanitary than poly only recently..


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## chiffonodd

This may sound silly, but another concern is being able to clean the board. I love my 18x24 for prep space but it was almost impossible to clean in my kitchen sink without flooding the counter and floor. If you've got a big and deep enough sink then more power to you, but it's something to think about!


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## Mucho Bocho

Chiff, Second that, I don't know whey everyone wants a big board either. I've got a custom 14" maple/cherry end grain. I can cut most things on it and I toss it in the sink and rinse at will. Now I do have a larger board 18" X 20" that I pull out when I'm slicing a large piece of meat or lots of prep. which isn't very often. I also don't have the counter space for the larger board either. Stay away from Pro Teak. I have two of them, you're better off with an end grain maple/walnut/cherry or a combo as others have mentioned. Lots of folks here are crazy about their Boardsmith board. Reach out to John Loftus at Lonestar Cutting Boards. Maybe he'll give you a KKF discount too?


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## Zwiefel

Mucho Bocho said:


> I don't know whey everyone wants a big board either.



Semi-on topic post....

Must admit some surprise to see this coming from you...I frequently do 5+lbs onion, 10+lbs potatoes, 2+ bunches celery, etc. being able to do each of those tasks on the board without stopping to manage space makes it a much more pleasant task for me. But, I am fortunate to have a lot of counter space (though the board is put away when not in use)...I replaced the double sink with a very deep single so I can almost lay my 18X24 flat on the bottom of the sink....with a handful of dishes to one side (I don't understand having a double sink if you have a dishwasher). Also, maybe I never learned a good approach for managing the space since I've had this board for at least 15 years.


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## Artichoke

Another semi-on topic post....



Zwiefel said:


> ...I replaced the double sink with a very deep single so I can almost lay my 18X24 flat on the bottom of the sink....with a handful of dishes to one side (I don't understand having a double sink if you have a dishwasher)...




Very good point - I never thought about that.


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## bkdc

You guys are so sanitary. After I'm done with the board, I scrape the top off with several passes of a pastry scraper that is perfectly flat (I have several scrapers that I have ground down with flattened whetstones give the scraper a perfectly flat edge from any angle). Then I take a wet clean bartowel and scrub the surface. Then a few spritzes of dilute vinegar. Wipe off after a few minutes. Done. No wash in water unless I think I've really put something unsanitary on it. This is rare since I typically use veggies, and anything dirty or protein goes onto my synthetic hi-soft board. And the bigger, the better when it comes to boards. Whatever will fit in your kitchen space.

And teak is hard on your knife edge.


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## Mucho Bocho

Danny, That made me laugh. I'm not knocking you guys that use large boards. I can clearly see their use and have one. D as you know my tight kitchen is tight, I just don't have the counter space to keep out a full sized board. I can just pop my 14" in a deticated drawer when not in use.

Heck Wildboar has full-sized him and her boards on display at ll times. I find its easier to manage a smaller board. True, I can really only manage a few ingredients on it at a time, but thats ok cause I almost never move food from the board directly to the pan. I prep and then transfer to Mies bowls. 

BKDC, I hear what your saying, but your cleaning method really isn't easier than tossing in the sink, rinsing with cold water and leaving dry. Plus, I've found that repeated doses of vinegar leave the board pickled smelling. Also, the constant scrubbing from a wet bar towel will quickly remove the oils from the wood. Causing you to treat the wood more often and will leave you with a waxy towel. 

Sometimes I'll rinse my board five or six times in prep. with just cold water. I also prep everything on it meats veg whatever I got. I will prep the veg before the meat, or flip the board. If I prepping meats, I will use warm water and a little soap. Hey, we all have reasons for our own kitchen style, I get it.


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## Zwiefel

Mucho Bocho said:


> Danny, That made me laugh.



Heh. Good. 

As you said, it's a question of logistics and what you want to optimize for.


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## clintonior

My current largest board is a true bamboo 12x18. And a poly 11x14. They run a bit small when using the 12 in Dexter. Not terribly so but more space would be nice. These do both fit into my sink. That is a valid concern.


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## EdipisReks

Teak has a tendency to harbor silica, which can and will blunt your knives. I wouldn't own a Teak cutting board.


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## tcmx3

yeah I'd skip teak too.

there is a carolina slab size from theboardsmith which is inbetween the 18x24 and 12x18 (it is 16x22) which is what I have that I have found to be adequately sized without taking up the entirety of my apartment's kitchen.


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## Burl Source

Just to throw in my 2 cents worth.
I have 2 boards at home. One will fit into the sink at an angle to wash it off after use.
The other is too large for the sink so I go out on the back deck to wash it.
I like the large one the best but use the smallest the most.


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## Burl Source

couldn't edit so.....
a final comment.
I always wash my boards with soapy water and a green scratchy pad after use.
Then I wipe off excess water and stand on edge in the dish drainer to dry.
Boards don't smell and are still flat.


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## clintonior

Are those end grain boards or edge grain. most of my edge grain boards have split and gone in the stove by know..I've had some luck with bamboo.its 11x14 fit into the dishwasher and sink..yes ive found it in the dishwasher before..ugh.. I'm on the fence between an end grain board or just a large poly board..and 16x22 sounds like a nice size...does any one recommend a slab cut board?


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## DamageInc

About the large board thing, I made the mistake of making my board too large for my sink.

I have to wash it in the shower. No joke.


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## aboynamedsuita

I have to do that with one of my carb-x food totes as well, it's like 18x26x9


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## EdipisReks

I scrape my 15x20x4 boards. No way they fit in the sink, and too heavy to lug around anywhere else. Scraping seems to work just fine.


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## clintonior

i have a bid on a NSF poly board its 15x22 for 28$ free ship is that a good deal its probably a waste as I wont be satisfied till i have an end grain board..lol


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## Adrian

Never buy teak chopping boards. Teak is grown in similar swampy / sandy conditions to mangrove, and the grain is frequently clogged with fine sand and silica. It is notorious for dulling woodworking tools, and the furniture workshops invariably use carbide blades to cope with this. It will quickly degrade and dull a fine knife blade.


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## clintonior

seems very sound. I would likey get a domestic end grain board after that info..heard that mentioned twice now..I have read wood has natural anti microbial properties and that poly can harbor mold and bacteria..thats contrary to health inspectors requiring poly and only grandfathering in wood butcher block in the past.(80"s)


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## clintonior

Update. I ended up unable to pull the trigger at this time on an end grain board. I ended up with (I'm sure a temporary solution) a wally find 15x22 (edge grain) board in hindu chin hard wood. the cost $16.87 hardly made a dent in the walet. the Board soaked up about a 1/4 cup of mineral oil first wiping, anyways it is big enough for the Deter 48912 12 inch chef knife. I think that 16x22 suggestion would be optimal perhaps on a standard home counter with a 10 or 12 inch knife..


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## FireDragon76

Teak doesn't feel nearly as hard as bamboo or maple, more like cutting on pine (which is used for Chinese-style chopping blocks). My teak board got a small gouge in it the day after I bought it. And they are usually priced about as much as a maple or cypress board- if not for the fact I got my board on sale, I doubt I would have bothered with it.

Most of the reviews I read said they are not as hard on knife blades as bamboo or maple.


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## chinacats

FireDragon76 said:


> Teak doesn't feel nearly as hard as bamboo or maple, more like cutting on pine (which is used for Chinese-style chopping blocks). My teak board got a small gouge in it the day after I bought it. And they are usually priced about as much as a maple or cypress board- if not for the fact I got my board on sale, I doubt I would have bothered with it.
> 
> Most of the reviews I read said they are not as hard on knife blades as bamboo or maple.



Where did you read that maple was bad on knife blades? Sounds like something ken shwag would say...


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## FireDragon76

chinacats said:


> Where did you read that maple was bad on knife blades? Sounds like something ken shwag would say...



It's hard on knives only compared to softwoods.


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## Mucho Bocho

Fire, maple, cherry and walnut are considered preferred woods for cutting boards. I have two proteak boards and they are harder on knife edges than my walnut/cherry board. Teal is nice if a wood board is used in a wet/moist environment.


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## daveb

FireDragon76 said:


> It's hard on knives only compared to softwoods.



I call bull####

From your experience with which knives / boards do you make this assertion?


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## FireDragon76

America's Test Kitchen ran tests on common cutting boards (including knife wear tests), the teak cutting board came out on top.

Cherry and walnut are slightly softer than teak. Maple is traditional but it's about 50 percent harder.


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## bkultra

ATK gives some of the worst advice (In my and many others opinions) and their reasoning is beyond me.


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## Mucho Bocho

@Puff the Magic Dragon, Teak contains a high level of silica (up to 1.4%) which has a pronounced blunting effect on cutting edges. 

Guess you approve of glass cutting boards too.


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## aboynamedsuita

bkultra said:


> ATK gives some of the worst advice (In my and many others opinions) and their reasoning is beyond me.



+1

IIRC their mandolin review didn't even include the Benriner


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## daveb

FireDragon76 said:


> America's Test Kitchen ran tests on common cutting boards (including knife wear tests), the teak cutting board came out on top..





So if I understand correctly you've no personal experience to draw on but are citing ATK website to tell members of this web site that they're wrong?


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## FireDragon76

Mucho Bocho said:


> @Puff the Magic Dragon, Teak contains a high level of silica (up to 1.4%) which has a pronounced blunting effect on cutting edges.
> 
> Guess you approve of glass cutting boards too.



I'm sure teak theoretically could have some effect on knife blades, but it may not be a significant effect. A wood with 1.4 percent silica (which is only true of the upper end of the range for teak) is not the same as cutting on glass. And the experience of woodworkers with dulling router bits and chisels is not as relevant because they are intentionally cutting into the wood, whereas a kitchen knife mostly cuts into food.


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## bkultra

So ATK knows more about what makes a good cutting board than some of the most talented woodworkers here? At first I thought you were trolling, but now I'm convinced your are ATK's target audience. Furthermore, who cares what the cutting board is made of when you are using a $10 knife?


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## aboynamedsuita

FireDragon76 said:


> I'm sure teak theoretically could have some effect on knife blades, but it may not be a significant effect. A wood with 1.4 percent silica (which is only true of the upper end of the range for teak) is not the same as cutting on glass. And the experience of woodworkers with dulling router bits and chisels is not as relevant because they are intentionally cutting into the wood, whereas a kitchen knife mostly cuts into food.



With all due respect FD, please tread lightly when posting. No, you are not "sure" about the "theoretical" effect it "may" have. There is nothing wrong with being new to the world of knives and learning, but you are spreading misinformation, and unless other members comment to the contrary it will make the forum a mess. The "real" test kitchens are those of actual professional chefs, a number of whom are members here; as well as the other knife enthusiasts (including woodworkers) who form the KKF membership. You won't convince anyone here about teak, knives or ATK.


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## Adrian

Sound words tjangula. I don't think I have ever seen an end grain teak board. As I have a woodworking shop at home, I have in the past used teak for exterior furniture and once I made some thick worktops with it for a utility room. My recollection of working with it was that it was extremely stable but ripping about 60 metres of boards for edge jointing completely blunt a new TCT blade on my table saw. If I was not fussed about edge retention then I can see that teak, being water resistant and stable, could make a hygienic board that is easy to wash down. However, in my experience teak will very quickly dull a fine edge. Those of us who go to the trouble of making knives extremely sharp and optimum performers, would steer away from teak. Boards are always a compromise between kindness to edges, long life durability and being practical to keep clean. There is a reason why high end boards are made from a limited range of woods. That said, one of my old favourites is a solid piece of edge grain Brazilian mahogany, 2" thick and about 18" by 12" that I have had for very many years and would not swap, even though that wood would not be recommended.


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## FireDragon76

Why have no reviewers mentioned teak dulling knives? This is something that has been mentioned with bamboo, but not teak. The issue with bamboo seems to be the nodes in the wood being very hard, not the mere presence of silica in the wood (which is also found in many vegetables than people are cutting, such as root vegetables).

I can see how teak might be an issue if a person had expensive knives and wanted a sharp edge to be retained as long as possible, but in that case... why use maple when there are better alternatives?


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## chinacats

You don't read about teak boards dulling edges because nobody here uses teak boards...time to break out the troll nets.:biggrin:


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## spoiledbroth

If there's one thing cooks illustrated/america's test kitchen don't know, it's ... gear. Knives and stuff anyway. I figure a lot of that is paid product placement!! The knife shootout they did, was laughable. 

They probably have stake in a teak plantation somewhere.


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## aboynamedsuita

FireDragon76 said:


> Why have no reviewers mentioned teak dulling knives? This is something that has been mentioned with bamboo, but not teak. The issue with bamboo seems to be the nodes in the wood being very hard, not the mere presence of silica in the wood (which is also found in many vegetables than people are cutting, such as root vegetables).
> 
> I can see how teak might be an issue if a person had expensive knives and wanted a sharp edge to be retained as long as possible, but in that case... why use maple when there are better alternatives?



What reviews? Probably written by people who've never used an actual sharp knife and think a $200 Wusthof is "the top of the line". Won't find much of that here. 

I'd say most here have some expensive knives with sharp edges so please refrain from trying to convince otherwise.


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