# New Old Sabatier Reconditioning Question



## tacobell (Oct 9, 2014)

Just found this old 8" Sabatier washed up on the "Bay". Going to try my hand at reconditioning. The knife is actually in great shape. The handle, which is a composite, is uncracked and the blade itself blade itself appears perfect, spare some patina and dull as heck. The only tools I have are whetstones, 500-6000, and some wet/dry sandpaper. 

Any suggestions on resources regarding bringing this guys back to life? I would love some pointers. 

I am not sure how to post pictures here so I will link to the same thread I started on Badger and Blade with pics.

Thanks

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/425790-New-Old-Sabatier


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## MrOli (Oct 9, 2014)

tacobell said:


> Just found this old 8" Sabatier washed up on the "Bay". Going to try my hand at reconditioning. The knife is actually in great shape. The handle, which is a composite, is uncracked and the blade itself blade itself appears perfect, spare some patina and dull as heck. The only tools I have are whetstones, 500-6000, and some wet/dry sandpaper.
> 
> Any suggestions on resources regarding bringing this guys back to life? I would love some pointers.
> 
> ...



I have the very same project for an old K Sabatier. The plan is to protect the handle while removing the patina, several methods seem to exist so I have not made my mind up yet. after that the handle will need a light sanding and tinting, followed with some tru oil to lift the grain. I will not receive the knife until the end of next week but it will surely need the full works from coarse to very fine stones in the range you mentioned.


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## Geo87 (Oct 9, 2014)

I can't see any pictures on your link sorry. To link images you need to use an image host like : http://postimage.org

You may need some coarser sandpaper to remove scratches on the blade face. I would start from p120 wet and dry and work your way up to 2000. If the handle is in good condition then just give it a sand then reseal it with a coat of tung oil or something similar. You could then add some wax like beeswax & buff it up for extra protection. 
I'm guessing the blade may need alot of thinning and Probobly the bolster reduced (big job) and the spine rounded if you wanted to 
You could do all of that with sandpaper & stones but the bolster work & spine rounding is a whole lot easier with a rotary tool / belt sander ( easier but not necessary )


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## tacobell (Oct 10, 2014)

Geo87 said:


> I can't see any pictures on your link sorry. To link images you need to use an image host like : http://postimage.org
> 
> You may need some coarser sandpaper to remove scratches on the blade face. I would start from p120 wet and dry and work your way up to 2000. If the handle is in good condition then just give it a sand then reseal it with a coat of tung oil or something similar. You could then add some wax like beeswax & buff it up for extra protection.
> I'm guessing the blade may need alot of thinning and Probobly the bolster reduced (big job) and the spine rounded if you wanted to
> You could do all of that with sandpaper & stones but the bolster work & spine rounding is a whole lot easier with a rotary tool / belt sander ( easier but not necessary )



Thanks Geo

Here is a link to the actual auction with better pictures:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311109906341?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

I think you are right on the money with what I have to do. The handle is a composite/plastic/bakerlite? ... so I think I will won't do much to it if anything. Can you use a fine sandpaper on these materials? As for the blade I will do as you say. I hadn't considered rounding the spine but that would look sweet. As for the bolster work, I will just spend some time with it and tape off the handle to protect it.

All suggestions welcome! 

Thanks


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## Geo87 (Oct 10, 2014)

Not too sure about the handle sorry I was assuming it was wood.


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## EdipisReks (Oct 10, 2014)

Just hit it with some barkeepers friend and then sharpen it.


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## TB_London (Oct 10, 2014)

Just sharpen and use, from the pics no need to restore that I can see. Looks barely used.


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## MrOli (Oct 10, 2014)

Yours appears to be pretty much in the same condition as mine, the handle is composite but not plastic by the way. The cleaning job should be easy enough.


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## Chuckles (Oct 10, 2014)

I found the bolster to be soft on the one Sab I have worked on. I was hesitant to use power tools on the bolster because I didn't want to ruin it. A round file did the job much faster than I ever would have thought. Something like this.

http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ctn11904.htm

Made it pretty simple and straight forward.


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## MrOli (Oct 10, 2014)

I have seen this beautiful Sab when you posted it a while ago I own a newish K Sab I would love to shorten like yours as the tip is factory bent (thank you K Sab for shipping bent and blunt knives as well as not answering mails sent in your native language...). I will probably end up doing it with a hacksaw and fine files.


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## tacobell (Oct 10, 2014)

Chuckles said:


> I found the bolster to be soft on the one Sab I have worked on. I was hesitant to use power tools on the bolster because I didn't want to ruin it. A round file did the job much faster than I ever would have thought. Something like this.
> 
> http://www.knifemaking.com/product-p/ctn11904.htm
> 
> Made it pretty simple and straight forward.



Chuckles, this is beautiful! I agree that the knife is in "like new" condition spare it's patina, but I'm going for better than new like this. How did you refinish the blade? What kind of file for the bolster?


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## psfred (Nov 16, 2014)

I'd not bother to "remove" the patina, it's carbon steel and should be that purplish gray that carbon steel knives acquire with use. Why? The "patina" is actually iron phosphate or some other iron compound that is NOT water soluble and is reasonably corrosion resistant. This protects the knife from rusting and makes it very much non-reactive when used with food. Removing the "patina" is the equivalent of removing the paint on your car, it's just going to expose the steel to corrosion. My Kraut cutter has carbon steel blades that have had nothing done to them over the last 100 years other than a quick sharpening this month. There are a few spots of rust under the rails, but the blades are very dark with patina and have not rusted anywhere there has not been bits of cabbage or cucumber stuck in storage. That patina works great to prevent rust.

Wipe the knife dry every use, and wipe a small amount of camellia oil on it before storing it at the end of the day. Keep your knife storage clean, clean, clean -- bits of food will cause serious corrosion and pits if left in contact with the blade.

I do agree with removing the bolster near the edge, but if you can remove it with a file the whole blade is very soft and you will have to use a steel constantly to keep the edge sharp enough to cut with. Be careful, a standard steel will remove metal from the edge if used aggressively, and if you use the "standard" Z-shaped motion so often advocated for carbon steel, you will oversharpen the heel and end up with a hole in the edge there. If you find a file skating on the bolster, you have a better knife in my opinion.

Peter


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