# Oiling handles



## brainsausage (Jan 4, 2013)

What's your recommendations in this regard? Do different varieties of wood take to different oils?

- Josh


----------



## kalaeb (Jan 4, 2013)

For me it depends on the finish desired. I have been using mineral oil as a base, for a matte finish I use birch wood casey gunstock wax. For a shiny finish I will use Tru-Oil, followed by the gunstock wax.


----------



## brainsausage (Jan 4, 2013)

I'm just looking to extend the life of my handles, and help diminish swelling/shrinkage.


----------



## TB_London (Jan 4, 2013)

If they aren't too dried out, boardsmith board butter would be good for maintenance


----------



## kalaeb (Jan 4, 2013)

I live in a very dry climate and nothing I have found reduces shrinkage. Even when I re-handle I like to let my wood sit for 6 months to a year before use to help minimize it.


----------



## Patatas Bravas (Jan 4, 2013)

Maybe you can keep your knives in a mineral oil immersion (handles inside) if you are not using them. You can rotate half of your collection like this. I think they stay healthy then.


----------



## Jmadams13 (Jan 4, 2013)

When mine start to look a little dry, especially the vintage with original handles, I use plain mineral oil. Wipe them heavy, let sit for a few hours, then wipe them off. Seems to work well. For new handles, I just wipe them with mineral oil and wipe them off right away once in a while. Normally when they hit the stones.


----------



## ecchef (Jan 4, 2013)

If I'm not going to use a knife every day, I give the handle a good coat of 'board butter' then wrap them in plastic wrap.


----------



## Vertigo (Jan 4, 2013)

Board butter here too, then buff with a clean dry towel. If they're particularly bad I'll coat 'em in mineral oil for a few hours, buff, then board butter again.


----------



## mpukas (Jan 4, 2013)

Can ho wood be stained?


----------



## Blobby (Jan 4, 2013)

mpukas said:


> Can ho wood be stained?



Yes, I've seen it done.


----------



## daddy yo yo (Jan 5, 2013)

how about bee's wax? would that give a matte finish too?

aren't the famous re-handling masters using a mixture of mineral oil and bee's wax?


----------



## franzb69 (Jan 5, 2013)

i find beeswax a bit sticky when applied on handles. but maybe i did the mix wrong.


----------



## Eric (Jan 5, 2013)

If the wood has been stabilized with epoxy, oil probably won't penetrate. For non stabilized wood tung oil penetrates and seals wood well. I have also used bees wax based finishes, made by myself, on bowls that I have turned, and this works well but needs to be buffed.


----------



## Jmadams13 (Jan 5, 2013)

I thought tung was toxic?


----------



## The Edge (Jan 5, 2013)

For unstabilized wood, I usually wrap in a towel that is soaked in mineral oil overnight. The next morning, I'll wipe it dry, and apply a coat of Renaisance wax. For the stabilized woods, I'll just add a layer of Renaisance wax when it starts to look a little dull.


----------



## franzb69 (Jan 5, 2013)

> Food-safe / non-toxic.
> Waterlox Original Tung oil finishes are non-toxic and food-safe when dry. Special care and attention should be used when applying the finish with regard to spread rate and adequate ventilation.
> 
> There are two basic steps to the drying and curing of a Waterlox Original Tung oil finish:
> ...



http://www.waterlox.com/faqs/woodworking/food-safe-non-toxic-wood-fnish


----------



## Burl Source (Jan 5, 2013)

Jmadams13 said:


> I thought tung was toxic?


Just don't use your handle to stir your food.
OK, I know I am being a smart a**. Sorry.
Are you talking about maintaining old handles or new ones? 
Natural or stabilized?
There will be some minor variations of what to do.


----------



## brainsausage (Jan 5, 2013)

Burl Source said:


> Just don't use your handle to stir your food.
> OK, I know I am being a smart a**. Sorry.
> Are you talking about maintaining old handles or new ones?
> Natural or stabilized?
> There will be some minor variations of what to do.



I have all of the above...


----------



## Lucretia (Jan 5, 2013)

kalaeb said:


> I live in a very dry climate and nothing I have found reduces shrinkage.



I thought cold climates caused that problem...


----------



## Von blewitt (Jan 5, 2013)

Lucretia said:


> I thought cold climates caused that problem...



Hahaha


----------



## brainsausage (Jan 5, 2013)

Lucretia said:


> I thought cold climates caused that problem...



You just couldn't resist could you?


----------



## antbanks (Jan 5, 2013)

My handles are all stabilized wood. What do you recommend to put on them to keep them looking nice and how often should they be treated? Thanks in advance for your time.


----------



## iceman01 (Jan 5, 2013)

I use Tung oil 1:10 diluted with orange oil. I usually submerge the handle for a few days in the oil and then let it dry in sunlight since tung polymerises in sunlight. I do the same with sayas, because I'm always afraid of staining them.

Polymerised Tung with orange oil is foodsafe and the orange kills the unpleasant smell of tung.

I posted pictures here. (I don't know if the link is allowed, if not, please delete and let me know.)


----------



## Jmadams13 (Jan 5, 2013)

Thank franz


----------



## kalaeb (Jan 5, 2013)

Lucretia said:


> I thought cold climates caused that problem...



Its not a problem...it happens to everyone. :whistling:


I oil mine every three months.


----------



## Burl Source (Jan 6, 2013)

This is just my opinion and what I do so take it with a grain of salt.

On an old handle I would apply a few liberal coats of cutting board oil until the handle doesn't appear dried out anymore. 
After that I would apply a couple coats of wood wax or board butter.
I use Minwax paste finishing wax on mine.

On the new knives and stabilized stuff I just use the paste wax when I think of it.
The wax creates a barrier and makes the wood look better and slows down changes in moisture level.
I treat wood a lot like with a pair of leather shoes. If it is dried out and dull, I oil and wax. 

When I wax my handles I use a scrap of cloth and rub in the wax like I am polishing a pair of shoes.
After it sits for about 15 minutes I use a dish towel or ??? and buff off any excess and polish it till it looks good.


----------



## antbanks (Jan 7, 2013)

Thanks for all the advice


----------



## brainsausage (Jan 7, 2013)

^ what he said.


----------



## daddy yo yo (Jul 17, 2013)

i understand that many of you use mineral oil and/or board butter for handle maintenance. 

do handles made of stabilized wood need that maintenance too? i am asking because i have an yet unsed piece of stabilized oregon myrtlewood (from burl source) which has been sitting around my home for half a year now, and it looks a bit bleached/dry compared to when i bought it...

i am also trying to get mineral oil around the place where i live. wikipedia says that mineral oil = white oil = (liquid) paraffin (oil) = (liquid) petroleum. is that what you guys mean with mineral oil? i can get (liquid) paraffin (oil) at my local pharmacy/drugstore...


----------



## TheDispossessed (Jul 17, 2013)

low-tech for me:
50/50 of beeswax (must be pure) and tsubaki oil for handles and sayas.
i just can't get into using anything i wouldn't want to eat even a little of on my knives. 
rub it on with a paper towel and buff it out with the same, dunzo!


----------



## daddy yo yo (Jul 17, 2013)

need to post my questions again before it gets lost on p.3


daddy yo yo said:


> i understand that many of you use mineral oil and/or board butter for handle maintenance.
> 
> *do handles made of stabilized wood need that maintenance too*? i am asking because i have an yet unsed piece of stabilized oregon myrtlewood (from burl source) which has been sitting around my home for half a year now, and it looks a bit bleached/dry compared to when i bought it...
> 
> i am also trying to get mineral oil around the place where i live. wikipedia says that *mineral oil = white oil = (liquid) paraffin (oil) = (liquid) petroleum. is that what you guys mean with mineral oil*? i can get (liquid) paraffin (oil) at my local pharmacy/drugstore...


----------



## Timthebeaver (Jul 17, 2013)

daddy yo yo said:


> need to post my questions again before it gets lost on p.3



Yes, liquid paraffin is refined mineral oil.


----------



## NO ChoP! (Jul 17, 2013)

I use Howard's Feed and Wax products. I like the beeswax and orange oil; it has a pleasant scent, and leaves a nice shimmer. The cutting block oil and wax is also very nice. The wax is more prevalent in this product. I too use a Minwax wood wax after a few douses of Danish oil when I do handle and saya work.


----------



## bkdc (Jul 17, 2013)

I don't like the feel of ho-wood/magnolia when it's been coated with mineral oil. That's just me. My ho-wood never gets any maintenance.


----------



## Timthebeaver (Jul 17, 2013)

bkdc said:


> I don't like the feel of ho-wood/magnolia when it's been coated with mineral oil. That's just me. * My ho-wood never gets any maintenance.*



+1


----------

