# CCK 1303 Cleaver Handle Upgrade?



## toddnmd (Feb 23, 2013)

I recently got my first cleaver, a CCK 1303. I love the cutting, but the handle could use an upgrade. (Yes, I knew this was a distinct possibility, but decided I'd give it a try first.) Just wondering if anyone on here has recommendations for someone who could do a handle upgrade. Given the cost of the blade, I don't want to go too crazy, but if I can find something reasonably priced, I think I'd like the cleaver a good bit more. Thanks for any input or suggestions.


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## cclin (Feb 23, 2013)

Mike Henry..... make sure re-handle use short & thick handle for best control wide/heavy blade. I have seen many Chinese cleaver re-handle used gyuto size handle, its just won't work with Chinese cleaver!! the best Japan made Cleaver handle I have seen is Gesshin Ginga #6 Chinese Cleaver (Wa-Handle)


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## NO ChoP! (Feb 24, 2013)

Maybe an off the shelf rosewood deba handle from EE?


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## joyless (Feb 24, 2013)

i think this one looks fantastic, even though i'm usually not a fan of such heavy patina on blades:


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## shaneg (Feb 24, 2013)

Nice..

Stripped with acetone then forced patina?


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## toddnmd (Feb 24, 2013)

Thanks for all the thoughts. I'm discussing the project with Mike. Didn't see rosewood handles on EE, but maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. I do like that CCK in the photo--would be curious to know the handle material and how the patina was forced.


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## shaneg (Feb 25, 2013)

#42
macmiddlebrooks 
Join Date
Jul 2011
Posts
254
Here's my newest prep tool..A CCK 1303 re-handled with cocobolo and ebony..as well as a fantastic saya from our friend Eamon.This cleaver cuts ridiculously well (as I'm sure many of you know) and with a new handle, it feels very natural in hand.
I did my usual "finishing" which includes:
-taking the dremel to the spine and choil followed by progressive sanding and then polishing.
-light sanding of the corners of the handle followed by some tung oil.
-removal of the forge slag and lacquer.
-forced patina with mustard and then a hot vinegar bath for a couple hours.
-stained the saya and carved a new pin out of "fatwood". I love fatwood pins due to there resinous nature....they really grip the hole when pushed in.
-put a new edge on it of course .

After the pics were taken, I took a green scotchbrite pad to the steel, removed the patina (and extra slag that remained) and let the blade sit up-rite in an onion for about twenty min. to check re-activity. I fully expected the onion to have turned black where it sat up next to the blade, but it was totally unstained! Well, that's about it...thanks for looking.


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## Chef Niloc (Feb 25, 2013)

Funny i think It's the second out of the three or four handles I think that I've ever made? Madagascan rosewood and reclaimed tortoise shell from old Japanese comb.


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## chinacats (Feb 25, 2013)

Chef Niloc said:


> Funny i think It's the second out of the three or four handles I think that I've ever made? Madagascan rosewood and reclaimed tortoise shell from old Japanese comb.



Nice handle chef, and good to see you back to posting.

Cheers!


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## etbenton (Feb 25, 2013)

joyless said:


> i think this one looks fantastic, even though i'm usually not a fan of such heavy patina on blades:



Do you know where I could find this cleaver?


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## Jmadams13 (Feb 25, 2013)

Browse the show your newest knife buy thread. It explains it in there. It's just a rehandled 1303, but sexy as hell.


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## shaneg (Feb 26, 2013)

Jmadams13 said:


> Browse the show your newest knife buy thread. It explains it in there. It's just a rehandled 1303, but sexy as hell.



I think people have given up reading and just look at the pictures.


The photo everyone is looking at is from member "macmiddlebrooks"
In my previous post I copied and pasted the handle and patina modifications from his original post.


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## Keith Sinclair (Feb 26, 2013)

The thing about those stubby barrel handles on chinese cleavers is that they work really well.Comfortable in the hand for long cutting sessions.

One inexpensive option is to sand the handle to a finer grit,some of those handles have a nice grain.Rub in some coats of Tung oil mixture will make the handle pop.Then Buff it.Will add water resistance & the handle looks much better.


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## Jmadams13 (Feb 26, 2013)

I agree with Keith. I have a rehandled 1303, and a stock one, and leave the rehandle at home, and even then still pull the stock one out of my roll when I'm cutting more than a meals worth. The stock handle is ugly for sure, but I couldn't imagine using the other one all day


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## Chef Niloc (Feb 27, 2013)

Jmadams13 said:


> I agree with Keith. I have a rehandled 1303, and a stock one, and leave the rehandle at home, and even then still pull the stock one out of my roll when I'm cutting more than a meals worth. The stock handle is ugly for sure, but I couldn't imagine using the other one all day



Yup after all 1 billion Chinamen can't be wrong i like the 3/4 size handes for ceavers too but I do like the "D" shape to a handle. That's why I made my own couldn't find a short "D" and the KKF handle master is a busy busy man these days.


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## smilesenpai (Jun 14, 2013)

keithsaltydog said:


> Rub in some coats of Tung oil mixture will make the handle pop.Then Buff it.Will add water resistance & the handle looks much better.


What do you mean by "handle pop"?


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## franzb69 (Jun 14, 2013)

> What do you mean by "handle pop"?



he meant it'll make the handle look better by making it more "showy"


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