# Does every Jnat need to be sealed? And where the heck is all the cashew lacquer?!



## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

I have several unsealed Jnats, running from coarser to finer and hard. Should I seal all of them on the sides? What about the bottom? Is rice paper also necessary? I know a lot of people use shelac or clear nail polish, but because I'm a traditionalist in most things, where can I find cashew lacquer; I've read hyper cafe, but the site isn't working.

The stones I have/getting delivered soon are:
Ikarashi
Thai white binsui
Red aoto
A mystery stone that I think is a takashima
Khao men
Ohira suita
Okuda suita
Ohira uchigumori
Shoubudani asagi awesado
Tsuchima (already sealed)

Thanks!


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## alterwisser (Oct 11, 2016)

The Khao men is already sealed!


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## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

Good to hear. Haven't received it yet, along with the Thai binsui. They're being shipped.


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## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

Nanikawa has tubes of urushi lacquer (don't know if they ship to the US yet). Anyone sealed Jnats with urushi? Heard it's a headache, but if I can't find any cashew than I might just go for it.

http://www.namikawa-ltd.com/product-list/11


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## PalmRoyale (Oct 11, 2016)

Why not use a clear automotive lacquer? It's easy to apply and waterproof.


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## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

PalmRoyale said:


> Why not use a clear automotive lacquer? It's easy to apply and waterproof.



I like complicating my life by being an unnecessary traditionalist in some things. Also, I see my Jnats as my babies, and I want to give them the best and what makes them feel at home, even if the end result with something cheaper is the same. :urweird:


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## aboynamedsuita (Oct 11, 2016)

If you're in the USA check out TeaDogu for Cashew, Eric is a good guy.
http://www.teadogu.com/cashewlacquer.html


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## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

tjangula said:


> If you're in the USA check out TeaDogu for Cashew, Eric is a good guy.
> http://www.teadogu.com/cashewlacquer.html



Awesome, thanks! Does you know if there's a need for the base he also sells?


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## aboynamedsuita (Oct 11, 2016)

Don't think so if you're just sealing jnats. You can use artist grade turpentine instead of the thinner too. Check out Keith's (Tomo Nagura) video:
[video=youtube;fKeRRZcXNIs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKeRRZcXNIs[/video]

I'm in the process of sealing myself and this is what I'm doing based on the recommendations of others here as well.


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## foody518 (Oct 11, 2016)

I don't think the white Binsui and the Ikarashi should need sealing


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## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

tjangula said:


> Don't think so if you're just sealing jnats. You can use artist grade turpentine instead of the thinner too. Check out Keith's (Tomo Nagura) video:
> [video=youtube;fKeRRZcXNIs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fKeRRZcXNIs[/video]
> 
> I'm in the process of sealing myself and this is what I'm doing based on the recommendations of others here as well.



Are you sealing all your jnats, or just some? I don't think it would hurt to seal all of them, but maybe it's a waste of resources sealing some of them that don't really need it, given the price of the lacquer.


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## aboynamedsuita (Oct 11, 2016)

I'm gonna do all of them just for consistency. The Kouzaki Okabana Aoto I got from Watanabe would need it for sure, but the Nakayama Kiita and Ozuko Asagi probably not.

EDIT
Apparently the lacquer goes a long way so I'm not too concerned about running out.


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## PalmRoyale (Oct 11, 2016)

Smashmasta said:


> I like complicating my life by being an unnecessary traditionalist in some things. Also, I see my Jnats as my babies, and I want to give them the best and what makes them feel at home, even if the end result with something cheaper is the same. :urweird:


I usually go for the easiest option if it yields good results :biggrin: I already bought a spray can for my Ohira Suita (it's at customs right now so hopefully I should get it somewhere this week  ).


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## Mucho Bocho (Oct 11, 2016)

Actually Tanner picked up enough to cover ever j-nat in Canada. His search was long and hard but he's very persistent. HA

To say that a little goes a long way is an understatement. I'd go as far as to say that unless you're dealer, few individuals would finish a can in their lifetime. I think I used about 3.0 ml on a stone and tomo large nagura, with three coats and still have some left in the syringe. It gets thinned down so much. Stinky stuff, that stinks for a long time too, keep that in mind. 

that's what I think its so funny that Tanner has now shifted the global market trade on cashew Lacquer.


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## bennyprofane (Oct 11, 2016)

According to Miles, the Thai Binsuis dont need lacquering. I dont lacquer all my stones and prefer how they look unlacquered. I usually ask the vendor if he recommends lacquering. Ikarashi also doesnt need lacquering. The rest of your stones should be lacquered. May I ask from where you are getting all these stones?


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## bennyprofane (Oct 11, 2016)

I use shellac which was recommended by Andrey V. and a few other jnat experts here on the forum. Its easy to get, cheap, completely natural (even safe for consumption) and works well.


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## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

bennyprofane said:


> According to Miles, the Thai Binsuis dont need lacquering. I dont lacquer all my stones and prefer how they look unlacquered. I usually ask the vendor if he recommends lacquering. Ikarashi also doesnt need lacquering. The rest of your stones should be lacquered. May I ask from where you are getting all these stones?



I'm getting them from all over. 

Khao men and Binsui From Miles in Hawaii 
Tsuchima and mystery stone from Morihei 
Red from Jon at JKI
Ikarashi and shoubudani awesado from maxim at JNS
Uchigumori from Japanese-Whetstones 
Ohira suita from aframestokyo 
Okudo suita from metalmaster


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## ynot1985 (Oct 11, 2016)

For ppl using the cashew.. which number colour are we using.. I was in a hardware store the other day and there's so many colirs


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## Smashmasta (Oct 11, 2016)

ynot1985 said:


> For ppl using the cashew.. which number colour are we using.. I was in a hardware store the other day and there's so many colirs



That sounds synthetic cuz there aren't any hardware stores carrying cashew lacquer that I know of, haha. The natural cashew lacquer I just bought was the clear one which I think is the Keith used in his videos. It still has a orange tint to it tho. Sorry can't help with the other stuff.


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## Badgertooth (Oct 11, 2016)

I got a special marine grade spray-on lacquer for boats. Which *hilariously* dripped round to the sharpening face of the Aiiwatani I was sealing the bottom and sides of. I am comforted by the effort it took to sand off that the back and sides are very well sealed but it's a
Pointed lesson in the importance of painters tape and possibly buying a paint on solution.


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## aboynamedsuita (Oct 11, 2016)

I also ordered the clear and got the 48 which Hyper Cafe lists as neo-clear (semi transparent). I think 51 is the transparent one from Keith's video.

Hyper Cafe (and some other sources) state that the clear ones are stronger because of no pigment, but some members here have said they haven't noticed a difference. I'd think for stones it'd not make as much of a difference since the main point is waterproofing (?), and the strength is an added bonus (?)... probably matters more if you're doing the ceramic/gold stuff.


EDIT
here's a pic:


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## ynot1985 (Oct 17, 2016)

Thanks tanner.. was at Tokyo hands and can only find 48.. now I want a 51 just to see what transparent is .. sigh


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## bennyprofane (Nov 14, 2016)

tjangula said:


> I also ordered the clear and got the 48 which Hyper Cafe lists as neo-clear (semi transparent). I think 51 is the transparent one from Keith's video.



Could you post a picture of a stone with #48 on it? I just read on a guitar forum that #51 is darker than #48.


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## Asteger (Nov 14, 2016)

From my experience, yes, the clearer the better. Clearer is purer and should be stronger. It's also a lot easier to work with, drying more evenly and quickly. On the other hand, it's more expensive in my experience. 

Yes, coloured cashew lacquer is available. Black is often used on Tsushima and, I think, is a good fit for usual aoto - both blah-looking stones, so no big deal. However, like tattoos, you'll probably live to regret coloured lacquer. The clear isn't completely colourless anyway, although some natural brownishness can look good too, I think.


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## aboynamedsuita (Nov 14, 2016)

bennyprofane said:


> Could you post a picture of a stone with #48 on it? I just read on a guitar forum that #51 is darker than #48.



I can show it on some naguras since on the stones it's harder to tell because of their own color I'd say in general it gives stones a wet look, but maybe slightly darker. You can also then compare to the video. 

Before





After three coats of 48 neo-clear





Here's from Keith's video for comparison (if you look closely you can see 51 on the can at some point during the video)


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## aboynamedsuita (Nov 14, 2016)

My third layer is orettt much cured, so I'll be posting the finished results sometime in my gallery, but maybpot the originals too


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## BlueSteel (Nov 15, 2016)

tjangula said:


> My third layer is orettt much cured, so I'll be posting the finished results sometime in my gallery, but maybpot the originals too



Hi Tanner,

Did you have any method for how dry the stone was before you applied the first lacquer? Like, did you let the stone dry for a certain period after the last time you used it? Or maybe you were only doing newly purchased stones?

I plan to lacquer a stone that was wet tonight, and just thinking about how many days to let it dry first!

Cheers,
Blair


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## niwaki-boy (Nov 15, 2016)

tjangula said:


> My third layer is orettt much cured, so I'll be posting the finished results sometime in my gallery, but maybpot the originals too



Just curious.. why do you lacquer the naguras? Do they blow apart down the line.. I bought a set a while ago but didn't really give a thought to that.


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## bennyprofane (Nov 15, 2016)

Thank you, Tanner. Yes you can see he is using #51 in the video but if you can confirm the photos you posted, his does look darker and not clearer, no? The stuff also looks pretty dark in his videos so #48 might be the better alternative.


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## aboynamedsuita (Nov 15, 2016)

BlueSteel said:


> Hi Tanner,
> 
> Did you have any method for how dry the stone was before you applied the first lacquer? Like, did you let the stone dry for a certain period after the last time you used it? Or maybe you were only doing newly purchased stones?
> 
> ...



Hey Blair, I started with dry stones so am not sure how long you should wait. Right now it's also about 20°C inside with <23% RH, so I'd think it's pretty dry here too. I'm gonna rinse off my choseras and lacquer them up to prevent the binder from leaching out the sides and bottom, I'd probably give mine at least a couple days after just a quick rinse given the indoor climate here. 




niwaki-boy said:


> Just curious.. why do you lacquer the naguras? Do they blow apart down the line.. I bought a set a while ago but didn't really give a thought to that.



I've heard and seen pictures of botan nagura that split in half because there's a line of sand in them, plus it also helps preserve the stamps I think. 




bennyprofane said:


> Thank you, Tanner. Yes you can see he is using #51 in the video but if you can confirm the photos you posted, his does look darker and not clearer, no? The stuff also looks pretty dark in his videos so #48 might be the better alternative.



I agree that the 51 is darker than the 48 (also the 51 pic from the video was only 2 coats but i had 3 of 48). I'd say both are clear, inasmuch as you can still clearly see the stamps and one doesn't cloud them out more than the other. It's just that the color tone is a bit different. If you look on the koma you can see where I was kinda sloppy and had some run down the side so it is a bit darker there (one in the background is two tone color so looks even darker, but if you see my original picture you can see what I'm talking about)


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## bennyprofane (Nov 15, 2016)

Thanks, Tanner. Did you go by Keith's video?

I am surprised that Keith doesn't mind touching the lacquer as I've read that it also contains the toxic urushiol:

"Urushiol is a caustic alkaloid toxin, and when in contact with the skin, uncured lacquer can cause anything from bad rashes (ala poison ivy) to severe anaphylaxis and even anaphylactic shock in the worst cases (high exposure combined with high sensitivity). _(Here he is talking about Urushi Lacquer)_

(...)

Urushiol is also present in the double shell of the cashew nut and it is for this reason that cashews are sold almost exclusively as a shelled product. It is from this source that cashew lacquer is derived and while cashew lacquer is slightly less toxic than that of the Kiurushi tree, thats not saying a lot. Cashew lacquer is commercially available in a formulation that allows for air-curing, thus alleviating the need for curing chambers and virtually guaranteeing a hypoallergenic, non-toxic product once done. In fact, most folks I know who work with the stuff and understand its toxicity will let it cure for longer than necessary just to make sure."

Source: http://www.wardukarmouries.com/Info/Urushi.html


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## Smashmasta (Nov 15, 2016)

bennyprofane said:


> Thanks, Tanner. Did you go by Keith's video?
> 
> I am surprised that Keith doesn't mind touching the lacquer as I've read that it also contains the toxic urushiol:
> 
> ...





bennyprofane said:


> Thanks, Tanner. Did you go by Keith's video?
> 
> I am surprised that Keith doesn't mind touching the lacquer as I've read that it also contains the toxic urushiol:
> 
> ...





bennyprofane said:


> Thanks, Tanner. Did you go by Keith's video?
> 
> I am surprised that Keith doesn't mind touching the lacquer as I've read that it also contains the toxic urushiol:
> 
> ...



I want to say this is a case-by-case type thing. My anecdotal evidence is... me! I'm VERY allergic to poison ivy, like have to go and get cortisol shots at the hospital sometimes, I'm that allergic. But when I used my cashew lacquer, it came in contact with my skin several times (despite wearing latex gloves - it's just sooo sticky). I didn't have the slightest reaction at all. 
Therefore, based off that, I think we can (ever so slightly) tone down the DANGER! warning of at least cashew lacquer. Urushi lacquer - I don't know, I haven't used it. I'd just say that if you have any fears, or know that you're more allergic than other to urushiol, wear a cheap face mask and latex gloves, and you'll probably be fine. But again, that's just MY experience.

I actually have a couple nagura from Keith, and while I don't know what number he used for the ones I bought from him, I bought #48, and it's either the same color, or close enough that I'm not concerned about it.

Lacquering does protect the stamps - in fact, occasionally you'll seem some stones, most likely nagura, with just a layer or two on the stamps alone, or a layer or two extra on the stamps besides the whole stone. Lacquer, that is a polymerized shell once dry, does stabilize especially soft/fragile and pure stones, nagura being the prime example. The shell can prevent chipping or scraping from the occasional bump into something hard, reinforce a weak part of the stone that may be due to a lengthy inclusion, and at the very least, add to some grip when holding a wet small irregularly shaped nagura (also, I don't mind the somewhat sweet scent of cashew lacquer...)

From my experience, in about a 60-70 degree F environment, with about 50-70% humidity, the lacquer, if properly thinned (that is, it has the consistency of sugar water), will take 45-60 minutes to dry adequately. Simply dabbing your finger (in a glove, if need be) to see if there's any stickiness left, will tell you if it needs more time to dry. The thicker the coat of lacquer, as well as the the colder and more humid it is where you're doing this, the more time it will take to dry.


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## bennyprofane (Nov 16, 2016)

Thank you for the very detailed answer, Smashmasta!


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## niwaki-boy (Nov 18, 2016)

tjangula said:


> Hey Blair, I started with dry stones so am not sure how long you should wait. Right now it's also about 20°C inside with <23% RH, so I'd think it's pretty dry here too. I'm gonna rinse off my choseras and lacquer them up to prevent the binder from leaching out the sides and bottom, I'd probably give mine at least a couple days after just a quick rinse given the indoor climate here.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Thanks tj... I see those lines in mine.. well you bring a good point! and also thought there had to be a little stamp preservation reason as well :biggrin:!


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## aboynamedsuita (Nov 18, 2016)

niwaki-boy said:


> Thanks tj... I see those lines in mine.. well you bring a good point! and also thought there had to be a little stamp preservation reason as well :biggrin:!


No problem, I'm sure that on the tomonagura website there's a page where Keith shows the splitting if you're interested. 




bennyprofane said:


> Thanks, Tanner. Did you go by Keith's video?
> 
> I am surprised that Keith doesn't mind touching the lacquer as I've read that it also contains the toxic urushiol



Sorry J, I missed your comment earlier I pretty much followed the video (https://youtu.be/fKeRRZcXNIs) and the write up he also did (http://www.tomonagura.com/jnats/japanese-whetstone-info/sealing-a-jnat.html). I wore nitrile gloves and gave about 24 hours between the first and second coats, then 1-2 weeks before the third (it's really dry and cool here).

I did get some on my skin but I wiped off with acetone and didn't have any problems. I'm honestly more concerned with the chemical fumes not sure if cashew contains isocyanates or not (can't read label) but it can't be good.


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## malexthekid (Nov 18, 2016)

Hope I am not derailing this but would love to know what jnat aussies use to seal? I have done a quick google search and can't find any sellers of cashew lacquer. Got myself my first jnats ib maksims sale. Though these are for my razor rather than knives (I did make sure one of them should ideally be a nice finisher for my edge if I wish).


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## Badgertooth (Nov 19, 2016)

malexthekid said:


> Hope I am not derailing this but would love to know what jnat aussies use to seal? I have done a quick google search and can't find any sellers of cashew lacquer. Got myself my first jnats ib maksims sale. Though these are for my razor rather than knives (I did make sure one of them should ideally be a nice finisher for my edge if I wish).



Mate if you have Mitre10 in Aus (I think you do) ask for a marine grade spray on lacquer, I'll nip into the shed later and PM you the brand name. Piece of piss to apply, just remember to mask the top edge otherwise you'll be sanding lacquer off your sharpening surface from where it drips down.


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## Badgertooth (Nov 19, 2016)




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## malexthekid (Nov 19, 2016)

Badgertooth said:


> Mate if you have Mitre10 in Aus (I think you do) ask for a marine grade spray on lacquer, I'll nip into the shed later and PM you the brand name. Piece of piss to apply, just remember to mask the top edge otherwise you'll be sanding lacquer off your sharpening surface from where it drips down.



Awesome thanks for that.


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## ynot1985 (Dec 1, 2016)

Does any one know the dilution factor btw the cashew lacquer and the thinner?


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## Mucho Bocho (Dec 2, 2016)

Blame Tanner. He's monopolized the cashew lac. market.

But as the Black Keys say "I got mine"


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## TheCaptain (Dec 2, 2016)

ynot1985 said:


> Does any one know the dilution factor btw the cashew lacquer and the thinner?



Dude...you beat me to that question. I was going to work on my stones this weekend!

Also, I heard the fumes can be pretty bad. I'm doing this in a heated basement. Will I need to open windows to air things out?

It's supposed to snow so I may need to wait.


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## TheCaptain (Dec 2, 2016)

@badgertooth Thanks for the hint about masking off the top. Seems obvious once you say it BUT I would have missed that step.


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## Mucho Bocho (Dec 2, 2016)

TheCaptain said:


> Dude...you beat me to that question. I was going to work on my stones this weekend!
> 
> Also, I heard the fumes can be pretty bad. I'm doing this in a heated basement. Will I need to open windows to air things out?
> 
> It's supposed to snow so I may need to wait.



DONT DO IT INSIDE. Also, it takes weeks even months to finally cure and stop stinking. It's part of the charm of jnats. You'll also want to apply at least three coats.


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## ynot1985 (Dec 2, 2016)

It's a pretty strong and distinctive smell and really thick too. I did it inside cause it was in the workshop at work and no one will be there for the weekend but yeah I wouldn't do it inside if at home


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## LucasFur (Dec 2, 2016)

Anybody have any opposition to just applying clear nail polish? - Curiosity


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## TheCaptain (Dec 2, 2016)

Alrighty then. Guess I won't be sealing my stones until springtime.

How much risk is it to use my stones (no soakers) until then? I don't see any obvious faults any any except one and I can hold off on using that for now.


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## Mucho Bocho (Dec 2, 2016)

Captain, Understand that applying lacquer is really a preference not a requirement (as far as I know). I'd argue that most natural stones purchased outside of Japan never get lacquered. You'll be fine, their freaking rocks after all. Just be careful not to bang them around much.


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## Krassi (Dec 2, 2016)

If you dry them good after usage its ok.. one reason far the laquering is that the mostly rough sides with cracks and other holes could easily draw water and if you put them i the hot summer sun they might crack..
i havend laquered all stones but will soon in a big shellac laquering sesseion .

Yep and banging them against other stones is far more dangerous  got a ugly reminder of that on my brick size ohira ;(


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## Badgertooth (Dec 2, 2016)

TheCaptain said:


> @badgertooth Thanks for the hint about masking off the top. Seems obvious once you say it BUT I would have missed that step.



Sometimes it takes a fellow forum member's mistakes to add to our collective knowledge. I.e. I'm the boob who was sanding his Aiiwatani


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## Badgertooth (Dec 2, 2016)

Mucho Bocho said:


> But as the Black Keys say "I got mine"



From their debut album "Pistol Fingered Urushi dunk"


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## Smashmasta (Dec 2, 2016)

TheCaptain said:


> Dude...you beat me to that question. I was going to work on my stones this weekend!
> 
> Also, I heard the fumes can be pretty bad. I'm doing this in a heated basement. Will I need to open windows to air things out?
> 
> It's supposed to snow so I may need to wait.



I wouldn't say there is a magic dilution factor. I've sealed over 20 Jnats in cashew and every time I've eyeballed the ratios. The important thing is the viscousity you end up with. I've found that having it on the thinner side is easier to work with, and saves on the cashew lacquer. The best viscosity I've found is like sugar water - not like honey, which is closer to the concentration of the cashew out of the jar (it's suuuper thick); you want it to be able to move around a bit less than water could when you twirl the jar. If IRC, use ~ 1/2 tbl for 3-5 stones, and slowly add turp until you get around this consistency. It all depends on how many stones you're going to seal too, so it's hard to say amounts. The best thing is to use a glass seal able jar so you can cap it off between coats, so if you have too much, then it won't be a problem. 

A thinner consistency is easier to apply, dries faster, and goes farther than a thicker coat. Plus it's easier to remove if you over apply or get it on spots you don't want. It does mean sometimes that you'll have to apply an additional coat or two, but it's really not a big deal. This is all to say, err on the thinner side, and don't forget that it can be removed if you 'screw up'. Also, while the smell lasts (I actually find the cashew scent to be pleasant once the turp dries) a while, it really doesn't take weeks to cure, not at all; unless you're talking urushi, which can take days between coats. I generally give coats an hour or so to dry between re applying. Just tap your finger tip lightly on a part, and if it's still sticky, let it dry longer. You'll get the hang of it, don't worry.


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## aboynamedsuita (Dec 2, 2016)

ynot1985 said:


> Does any one know the dilution factor btw the cashew lacquer and the thinner?





TheCaptain said:


> Dude...you beat me to that question. I was going to work on my stones this weekend!
> 
> Also, I heard the fumes can be pretty bad. I'm doing this in a heated basement. Will I need to open windows to air things out?
> 
> It's supposed to snow so I may need to wait.




I used the Winsor & Newton Turpentine since I saw it in the video and it's easier to get than the thinner. The first coat was quite thin but subsequent ones are thicker. It evaporates as you're working so you need to add more as you go IME.

I did mine indoors in a bathroom with the fan on, not sure I'd want to do it in an open room without ventilation. It is cold and dry here in Canada so I have to put my stones on a black horticultural tray with a second one inverted as a lid to keep the humidity in so it will cure properly. Once first applied I give 24 hrs for solvent evaporation then mist the top lid with a spray bottle and place back on (I alternate between on and slightly off every 12 hours or so). I'm able to do a coat every few days this way, but my second coat yesterday evening on batch II of jnats seemed pretty thick compared to the first, so it may take longer before the third. I let the final coat cure this way for 1-2 weeks and I can still smell it

Some more info:
http://www.tomonagura.com/jnats/japanese-whetstone-info/sealing-a-jnat.html


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## bennyprofane (Dec 4, 2016)

Tanner, I think only Urushi needs hunidity for curing but not Cashew or am I wrong on this?


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## Smashmasta (Dec 4, 2016)

bennyprofane said:


> Tanner, I think only Urushi needs hunidity for curing but not Cashew or am I wrong on this?



Urushi definitely does, but cashew either doesn't or not nearly as much as urushi, as I've applied mine in a dry climate.


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## pkjames (Dec 4, 2016)

wrong post.


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## aboynamedsuita (Dec 4, 2016)

bennyprofane said:


> Tanner, I think only Urushi needs hunidity for curing but not Cashew or am I wrong on this?



I'm no expert but I've gone off the info on tomo nagura. I'm not sure what else is in cashew lacquer, but may be isocyanates as the symbols on the can suggest respiratory hazard. Also they react with water (it what caused the Bhopal disaster)


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## malexthekid (Dec 19, 2016)

Badgertooth said:


>



Hey Badger just quick shout out and thanks. Picked up some of this a few weeks ago. Finally got to apply it last night. Checked it this morninf and it worked a treat.


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## Badgertooth (Dec 20, 2016)

Kerthunk..

Yeah, I love the stuff


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## tgfencer (Dec 20, 2016)

+1 for Badgers method also. Quick, painless, and cheap.


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## aboynamedsuita (Dec 20, 2016)

tgfencer said:


> +1 for Badgers method also. Quick, painless, and cheap.



It scares me to think of how many brain cells I killed while cashew lacquering 10+ stones at a time, but what annoys me the most is there are a few specks of dust on my choseras that got lacquered,


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## leansmancave (Dec 21, 2016)

I've been using nail polisher with good results...irate1:


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## ynot1985 (Dec 21, 2016)

Very impressed by that marine lacquer. I so know how you feel Tanner.. my only issue besides the smell is that they are damn hard to find replacements after you use up your can like I did now


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## aboynamedsuita (Dec 21, 2016)

You used an entire can? Wow you must have alot of stones. I think I still have about 20% after doing 3+ layers on 15 or so stones (including my S&G synths)


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## Asteger (Dec 21, 2016)

tjangula said:


> It scares me to think of how many brain cells I killed while cashew lacquering 10+ stones at a time, but what annoys me the most is there are a few specks of dust on my choseras that got lacquered,



10? Wow, wasn't it just a couple months ago you were hesitating about getting into the naturals thing? Now you can field a soccer team of them


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## Marek07 (Dec 21, 2016)

TJ - gotta ask... Why are you sealing S&G synthetics? Are there some inherent advantages?


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## Badgertooth (Dec 21, 2016)

Marek07 said:


> TJ - gotta ask... Why are you sealing S&G synthetics? Are there some inherent advantages?



The magnesia bonded stones can get brittle and crack from the small amount of water that does make ingress. If it is dried without an appropriately consistent drying rate or with temperature variance it may crack. I mention it because you have a jyunpaku and they are fairly notorious for it.


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## Marek07 (Dec 21, 2016)

Thanks for the answer Badgertooth.
Guess I better get me a can of your recommended Monocel Gold marine varnish. Cashew lacquer seems too hard to get and too fiddly (and noxious) to use. Would you also recommend sealing non S&Gs? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I have no idea of which stones are magnesia bonded.


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## malexthekid (Dec 21, 2016)

Marek07 said:


> Thanks for the answer Badgertooth.
> Guess I better get me a can of your recommended Monocel Gold marine varnish. Cashew lacquer seems too hard to get and too fiddly (and noxious) to use. Would you also recommend sealing non S&Gs? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I have no idea of which stones are magnesia bonded.



Go for it. Got mine at bunnings, I imagine it will last a lifetime.

Easy as to apply. I did a coat, waited half an hour then added another coat, half an hour the a final coat. Then let dry over night and it appears to have worked a treat.

As for magnesia bonded... i can't link it but from memory Jon did a good post on this recently.


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## aboynamedsuita (Dec 23, 2016)

Asteger said:


> 10? Wow, wasn't it just a couple months ago you were hesitating about getting into the naturals thing? Now you can field a soccer team of them


Yep, I still remember the PM I sent back earlier this year... sold some knives, bought some stones (I owe you a thanks as well as some other members for the info). I wish your sale happened earlier, maybe Santa will bring me a time machine for Xmas




Marek07 said:


> TJ - gotta ask... Why are you sealing S&G synthetics? Are there some inherent advantages?


What Badgertooth said, my 5k chosera has a bad reputation apparently (the grey unused side looks splotchy under the lacquer which methinks may be binder?)


QUOTE=Marek07;457561]Would you also recommend sealing non S&Gs? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I have no idea of which stones are magnesia bonded.[/QUOTE]
I sealed the Chosera nagura which is supposed to soak for 20min apparently... It took about 10 coats as it just kept soaking in and drying instantly.


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## Marek07 (Dec 24, 2016)

Looks like I better seal my Junpaku. The Chosera nagura sure is a thirsty little bugger, isn't it? Won't bother sealing if it takes 10 coats - got one in service and three more that are still in their packaging.


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## foody518 (Dec 24, 2016)

Marek07 said:


> Thanks for the answer Badgertooth.
> Guess I better get me a can of your recommended Monocel Gold marine varnish. Cashew lacquer seems too hard to get and too fiddly (and noxious) to use. Would you also recommend sealing non S&Gs? Sorry if that's a dumb question but I have no idea of which stones are magnesia bonded.



I think the Chosera line is all magnesia bonded. And my Jyunpaku 8k has spiderweb kind of cracking from <5 times usage, no long soaking, not deliberate fast or slow drying


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## Marek07 (Dec 24, 2016)

foody518 said:


> I think the Chosera line is all magnesia bonded. And my Jyunpaku 8k has spiderweb kind of cracking from <5 times usage, no long soaking, not deliberate fast or slow drying


Thanks for the tip. All my Choseras came bonded to plastic bases so that should be OK. My Junpaku has survived 6 months of use without any visible issues. Guess I better not push my luck - will seal it as soon as the shops reopen after the summer solstice.


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## bennyprofane (Dec 24, 2016)

Has anybody used synthetic resin varnish for lacquering?


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## Marek07 (Dec 24, 2016)

I think Badgertooth's post #37 would interest you. (I'm assuming it qualifies as synthetic)


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## bennyprofane (Dec 24, 2016)

Thanks, I wasn't sure if it's synthetic acrylic lacquer or resin lacquer.

Edit: Okay, it's a resin lacquer. Will ask him about it.


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## Nemo (Dec 27, 2016)

Badgertooth said:


> The magnesia bonded stones can get brittle and crack from the small amount of water that does make ingress. If it is dried without an appropriately consistent drying rate or with temperature variance it may crack. I mention it because you have a jyunpaku and they are fairly notorious for it.



Badger, how would I seal my Junpaku? Just the base or the sides as well. Presumably not the face? Is it the same for Jnats?

My Choseras are all munted to a base. Does that mean that I don't need to seal the sides?


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