# How important are cutting boards?



## domgro (May 14, 2014)

I want to buy a cutting board,but there are big price differences.

I've read,that it is important to choose hardwood like oak,maple,walnut aso and that its favourable to choose end grain.

but how impoprtant is it really in maintaining sharpness?
will there be major differences in edge retaining,when choosing oak vs. bomboo or maple edge grain vs maple end grain?


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## Pensacola Tiger (May 14, 2014)

Yes, cutting boards are important.

The best ones are end grain maple, cherry, walnut or mahogany. Oak is not the best choice.

Answers to your questions can be found on the FAQ page of The BoardSMITH:
http://theboardsmith.com/boardsmith-faqs/

A hard rubber board like a Sani-Tuff is an alternative to an end grain wood board.

Even an edge grain maple, cherry, walnut or mahogany board is preferable to a hard plastic or bamboo board.

The effect on edge retention varies with your cutting technique.


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## Matus (May 14, 2014)

Advantage of well done end grain board is similar to one of high end knife. It allows the edge on your knives last longer, it is pleasure to use and often it also looks very nice. All that comes at a cost, of course


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## MAS4T0 (May 14, 2014)

Another consideration is the longevity of the board. Cheap plastic boards are throw away items and are often past their best within a few weeks; while a good quality wooden board can be good as new after decades of use if well looked after.

A good board is much more enjoyable to use and does make a big difference. I'd much rather be using a decent knife on a good board than a great knife on a cheap board. A good board is an important component, like tyres on a car.

If you can afford it then go for it, you won't regret it and it will serve you well for a long time.


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## MAS4T0 (May 14, 2014)

Avoid Oak; the grain is very open which can cause a lot of problems.


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## toddnmd (May 14, 2014)

Pensacola Tiger said:


> Yes, cutting boards are important.
> 
> The best ones are end grain maple, cherry, walnut or mahogany.
> 
> Even an edge grain maple, cherry, walnut or mahogany board is preferable to a hard plastic or bamboo board.



+1

Bamboo is a grass, so to make a board out of it requires a lot of glue, which is hard on your edges. 

Either make the commitment to an end grain that will serve you for decades, or get a smaller edge grain now and upgrade to a nicer board later.


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## glestain (May 14, 2014)

I like the Hi-soft cutting board fro Korin.


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## icanhaschzbrgr (May 15, 2014)

When I talked to Andrey from MTMWood about different species of wood used in end grain cutting boards, he told me that European species of Oak are very different from americans White and Red Oaks species. European version is a lot less porous and is much denser. He told that actually about half of his boards are made from European wood.

There's also a good introduction article about end grain boards on MTMWood site that's worth reading.


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## TimoNieminen (May 15, 2014)

toddnmd said:


> Bamboo is a grass, so to make a board out of it requires a lot of glue, which is hard on your edges.



Even without problems with glues, bamboo itself is pretty abrasive, due to silicates.

Other grasses have high silicate contents too; sugar cane is abrasive to cutting tools, too. Non-grasses can be problematic too; I find palm fronds very abrasive. Not an issue for cutting boards, though.

Sani-Tuff boards look interesting.


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## andur (May 15, 2014)

Do your end grain boards stay absolutely flat? All my end grain ones are curved after some use, from the constant washing and drying.


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## rami_m (May 15, 2014)

Mineral oil my friend. There is also a section on board care at mtm website


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## domgro (May 15, 2014)

thank you for all the answers.
some very informative posts.
after the first posts,I would have avoided oak,but the post from icanhaschzbrgr makes sense.
Here in Germany oak boards are very popular and they are a little bit cheaper compared to other end grain boards.


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## apathetic (May 15, 2014)

I have a maple board from MTMWood, and I am very happy with it. Definitely worth spending on a good board.


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## domgro (May 15, 2014)

damn,I wanted to buy an european oak board,but after going through the MTM catalogue,its too tempting to buy such a board,because they are so damn nice.
so I'll be again way over my budget :surrendar:


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## WildBoar (May 15, 2014)

Te end grain boards really are a long-term investment. The initial pricing pain fades from memory pretty quick, but the enjoyment of the board lasts indefinitely.


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## domgro (May 15, 2014)

WildBoar said:


> Te end grain boards really are a long-term investment. The initial pricing pain fades from memory pretty quick, but the enjoyment of the board lasts indefinitely.



I totally agree and I wouldnt mind beeing over my budget by only few bucks,but I'm moving out and I'm basically over my budget for everything I bought/will buy because I see everything as a longterm investment.
i.e. in the beginning I spent 25 euro for a Henckels santoku and 80 Euro for a Henckels Knife set.Quickly I realised I need to spend more for good quality so I spent 160 euro (~220$) for 2xHiromoto Knives,50Euro for a good Wooden Knife holder,then 35 euro for a sharpening stone (stone was reduced) and now instead of spending 50 Euros for 2 cutting boards,I'll spend almost 3 times as much.

on the other hand they arent as expensive compared to european made cuttingboards,they look very nice and they are an eyecatcher
add that up for a whole appartment and you're couple k over your initial budget.


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## WildBoar (May 15, 2014)

domgro said:


> i.e. in the beginning I spent 25 euro for a Henckels santoku and 80 Euro for a Henckels Knife set.Quickly I realised I need to spend more for good quality so I spent 160 euro (~220$) for 2xHiromoto Knives,50Euro for a good Wooden Knife holder,then 35 euro for a sharpening stone (stone was reduced) and now instead of spending 50 Euros for 2 cutting boards,I'll spend almost 3 times as much.
> 
> on the other hand they arent as expensive compared to european made cuttingboards,they look very nice and they are an eyecatcher
> add that up for a whole appartment and you're couple k over your initial budget.


Sounds pretty normal. Stick around here a bit longer and you'll be waaaaaaaaaay beyond just a couple k over :wink:


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## tchan001 (May 15, 2014)

How about Japanese cutting boards like hinoki, gingko, and bakko yanagi?


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## panda (May 16, 2014)

my fancy end grain board is collecting dust ever since getting a synthetic rubber board (hi-soft). no more annoying maintenance and feels nearly as good, plus it is very gentle on knife edges. also a lot lighter, takes up less space.


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## mr drinky (May 16, 2014)

domgro said:


> I want to buy a cutting board,but there are big price differences.
> 
> I've read,that it is important to choose hardwood like oak,maple,walnut aso and that its favourable to choose end grain.
> 
> ...



yes.

k.

P.s. that is all I can muster at this point.


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## XooMG (May 16, 2014)

The way you cut might also impact (literally) edge longevity. I've got a decent rubber board, but because I never chop hard, I probably could have saved my money and gotten a cheap thick poly board that I could sand down from time to time.


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## domgro (May 16, 2014)

I end up buying these 2 boards
http://mtmwood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=681
http://mtmwood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=731


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## apicius9 (May 16, 2014)

My house mates complained about my larger Boardsmith board. Supposedly, it was taking away counter space where they wanted to cut things. I was a bit baffled, but it seems they found the board too nice to cut on and kept puting crappy boards on top of it. I just gave up and stored it away, but in general, it's an investment that will really make sense. Definitely is worth looking into how to mainain them.

Stefan


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## WildBoar (May 16, 2014)

domgro said:


> I end up buying these 2 boards
> http://mtmwood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=681
> http://mtmwood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=731


Nice! Way to bite the bullet and get yourself set up well for the next few years.


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## apathetic (May 16, 2014)

domgro said:


> I end up buying these 2 boards
> http://mtmwood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=681
> http://mtmwood.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=20&product_id=731



Nicely done!


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## domgro (May 16, 2014)

WildBoar said:


> Nice! Way to bite the bullet and get yourself set up well for the next few years.



At worst I can sell them on ebay at least for the amount I bought them.
but I hope I will have fun with them for the next years


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## WingKKF (May 16, 2014)

I found this one at the local TJ Maxx for about 20 bucks. I was so happy I could finally get rid of my poly board and for not much more money. The Mountain Woods board is light so it is easy to wash. Can't say how durable it will be since I've only had it for about 2 months but if it breaks a year or six months down the line, I'll just buy another.







http://www.mountainwoods.com/moreinfo.cfm/Product_ID/112.htm


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## nerologic (May 17, 2014)

I recently picked up a Core Acacia brand end grain board at TJ Maxx for $25. Couldn't find their end grain listed anywhere, so I could not look up reviews. Dave the BoardSMITH says acacia is alright for end grain boards, but it has voids that need to be filled (which can be seen on both of ours).
http://www.cheftalk.com/t/74564/cutting-board-advice#post_418731

I sanded mine a bit and loaded it up with mineral oil. We'll see how it lasts.


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## WingKKF (May 17, 2014)

Yay! for inexpensive end grain cutting boards. I'll have to look into getting mineral oil or whatever needs to be used to maintain a wooden board to make it last longer. Seems to be kinder to knife edges so I'm loving it.


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## Maylar (May 22, 2014)

andur said:


> Do your end grain boards stay absolutely flat? All my end grain ones are curved after some use, from the constant washing and drying.



A board shouldn't warp unless you're getting it way too wet. A quick wash with warm soapy water and then dried with a towel is good maintenance. Renewing the finish (mineral oil usually) also helps keep the board from absorbing water.


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## jennalyn (May 22, 2014)

Board size question! I plan on getting myself a nice end grain board in the next few months for not-raw-meat cutting purposes. Much as I'd love to have something large and gorgeous live on the counter, I don't think that's a great idea with my housemates. If you had to haul the board out of a cabinet on a regular basis, what size range would you consider?


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## WingKKF (May 22, 2014)

I'd say about 15x12 would be the smallest I'd go. More importantly is the weight if you're going to be hauling it out all the time. You might also want to consider some other methods of keep the board out of the way besides putting it back into the cabinet. Hanging, a vertical stand, a spot on the dish drying rack?


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## mark76 (May 22, 2014)

Good question. I instead, am looking for a larger board that I will leave in place for a longer time. So no picking up and putting back every time after cutting.

Most boards I see are about 15x12 max, not minimum, WingKKF. What larger size boards do you guys have?


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## toddnmd (May 22, 2014)

I have a 15 x 20. I wouldn't want to go smaller than 12 x 18 if I could help it.

Having a bigger board is pleasant to work on. More room for piles of various things, trimmings, etc. A large board almost never feels cramped.

I leave the board on the counter a fair amount of the time. If I need the counter space, it goes vertical against the backsplash on the same section of counter.


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## XooMG (May 23, 2014)

I think a good board should be as large as possible within a certain ratio of available counter space. Personally I don't mind cutting on a small board as long as there are dishes to transfer to...but a board that crowds my counter gives me no room to have ingredient bowls and that makes for a good bit of hassle, juggling ingredients around so I can wipe off the board.

Unless your entire counter is a cutting board, it's always nice to have some space for other things. Striking a balance might be more important than just maximizing cutting space...I use something like a 33x26cm board and I could probably go smaller.


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## WingKKF (May 23, 2014)

The 15x12 inches is the only end grain board I have and it's about the perfect size for me as it's not too big or small. The acacia board is also very light relatively, not much heavier than the poly board it replaced.


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## Chef Doom (May 23, 2014)

I leave my cutting board on my table I use to prep on. I have a rectangle board on a round table which can make things a little awkward, so I would take various shapes into account.

If I new I would be pulling it from a cupboard and constantly storing it, hi-soft/rubber all the way.


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## Keith Sinclair (May 31, 2014)

After cutting on plastic & other materials at work for decades, having a endgrain at home is a treat. I have used crossgrain boards too that are quite good. Still do for proteins. I follow Dave's tips for cleaning, like Howards Block Conditioner.

Talk about endgrains, how about the large round blocks Chinese chef's use. After cutting all that Duck & Char Sui pork, just poke the heel of the cleaver in the block until next cutting.:viking:


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## LKH9 (May 31, 2014)

The kind of roundblocks you're talking about is standard in our chinese kitchens. We have mini versions for general use. Chinese do a lot of choppings with cleavers, so round board is a must.


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## domgro (Jun 1, 2014)

can anybody tell me,how long their mtm cutting board delivery took?
I bought my boards ~2weeks ago and they havent even shipped it yet and from what I heard it takes another 3-4 weeks for the shipping to germany


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## mark76 (Jun 1, 2014)

Haha! I also bought a board from MTM last week. Haven't asked whether they have shipped it already...


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## domgro (Jun 1, 2014)

I asked them few days ago,how long it takes for a package from russia to germany since I bought it 2 weeks ago and they answered,that the order is ready to be shipped.
I thought they would at least be able the ship the package after 2 weeks.
once its on the way,I am supposed to get a tracking number,but I havent got anything yet.


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## icanhaschzbrgr (Jun 1, 2014)

domgro said:


> I asked them few days ago,how long it takes for a package from russia to germany since I bought it 2 weeks ago and they answered,that the order is ready to be shipped.
> I thought they would at least be able the ship the package after 2 weeks.
> once its on the way,I am supposed to get a tracking number,but I havent got anything yet.



Production time can easily consume 10-14 days, so 2 weeks seems to be a reasonable time to me. From my experience packages from Russia to Europe usually travels under 3 weeks (with majority of time lost in the customs).


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## domgro (Jun 1, 2014)

ah ok,I thought the board was already finished when I ordered it,since it was a single specimen.


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## Dgilks (Jun 3, 2014)

I'll be curious to see how these MTM boards stack up against the competition. The price is very competitive and they do look good as well.


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## Gertbysea (Jun 19, 2014)

I went to a timber yard, rummaged around and found a large piece of mahogany which I sanded and put small feet on. It is heavy but it will last forever and cost me only $40. Every once in a while. I will sand it again. Very happy.


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## 99Limited (Jun 19, 2014)

Since this thread showed up in the June newsletter, I thought I'd add my .02 cents and this is just my opinion based on 40 years of cooking at home.

This should be common knowledge: "Maple, walnut and cherry are generally accepted as the best woods for cutting boards. End grain cutting boards are preferred over edge grain, but ..."

Do not discount the durability of edge grain boards or the effects edge grain boards have on your knives edges. Earlier in this thread there was mention of Oak boards from Europe. Well

I have an Oak cutting board that was the work surface of a charcoal grill I bought in '77 when I was stationed in the U.K. The grill is long gone but I used this as my sole cutting board

for 30 years. Although it doesn't look new anymore, it certainly has a lot of life left in it and I still use it on occasion. I replaced it with a Boos edge grain board about nine years ago.

I've been very pleased with this board. There's plenty of work surface and because it's only about 1.5" thick, it's easy enough to take to my large, single bowl kitchen sink and give it a

quick cleaning. When I joined this forum I became familiar with The BoardSmith and ordered a custom sized black cherry board and retired my Boos board. Like many have said, David's 

boards are almost too pretty to use. These boards are really the best cutting boards money can buy. David has figured out the right ratio of block size to glue joints to board size. 

This makes for a strong board but without too many glue joints that can effect the durability of your knife's edge. If there is any drawback to a BoardSmith cutting board, well these

boards don't fit everyone's budget. But that's okay. As I pointed out earlier if an end grain board is not within your budget you should be able to find a well made edge grain board

that won't break the bank.


Another viable choice is the "rubber feeling" boards like Sani-Tuff. These boards take a little time to get used to, but in the end might make you a better user of your knife. Why?

Well with wood you can chop down as hard as you want and you're not going to do much if any damage to the wood. With a Sani-Tuff board you can cut into the surface which 

you really don't want to do. So what you end up doing is developing finer control of you knife to cut your proteins or vegetables without cutting deeper than necessary.


I recently moved and after a short trial period, unfortunately found my beautiful BoardSmith cutting board was too large for my counter. :sad0: I've put my Boos board back into production 

and although it's not nearly as pretty I know it will get the job done for many years to come.


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## DWSmith (Jun 19, 2014)

I have been swamped with work recently and am just now getting to the point I can read a little. So I will try to respond.

End grain is easier on edges for a variety of reasons. Edge or face grain boards just can't hold up as long but with care they will provide adequate service and life. However, some of the people I know just don't care for their boards properly and wonder why it died an early and unnecessary death. 

Mineral oil is essential! A caot when the area used most starts to turn lighter than the surrounding are is all it takes. There is *no*, let me repart that, *no* schedule for oiling a board. Discard any of those old wives tales as soon as you hear them. Simply put, the person relating that knows nothing of what they speak of. 

Read today a blurb on another web site where the maker states mineral oil will evaporate so you need to use his mixture of mineral oil and bees wax on top of the board. He copied my Board Butter name, substituting f's for the t's and called it Board Buffer. Again, pure baloney. Mineral oil doesn't evaporate, it is absorbed deeper into the wood and is carried off in minute amounts with the food that is cut on the board and washed off when sanitizing. I may sue him for copyright infringement.

Wood is usually preferred but rubber workes as well. Plastic boards are usually somewhat hard on edges and can be almost impossible to clean properly. Washing in the dishwasher doesn't help much. Bamboo is hard and all the added glues and resins used make it harder on good edges. Glass cutting surfaces is knife abuse pure and simple. Might as well cut on your driveway or a brick.

Build time can vary depending on how busy the maker is and who the maker is. If you order from Boos, Michigan Maple Block, JK Adams or Catskill, there is a good chance they have the board on the shelf ready to go. Remember, they build hundreds a day on an assemly line using many workers and automated machines. The closest many of the small makers get to an automated machine is our own two hands. If you want instant gratification, buy from one of the mega-large national brands where a worker sees the board for an instant then goes on to the next one. If you want more of an artisan board, find a smaller maker but be very careful who you choose. Seems every person with a garage workshop is an expert and not all of them can grasp the comcept completely. (I have seen some of those garage workshops where there is no room for a car and trying to get around is an exercise in thrying to get through a well defined path.) I have seen some real shady characters on ebay and Etsy selling boards and their wild claims are laughable. In short, check them out! I have seen some of the boards the Russian the OP ordered from makes. I would prefer some heavier devices but he seems to get along with what he has. Since I haven't seen his boards up close and in person I can't comment on the quality.

Here is where size does matter; get the largest board you can afford and have space to use. Smaller boards limit the luxury of usable work space. Larger boards give more room to cut, store, and move around as needed. Get what you can afford now and then upgrade in the future, as needed. 

I am sorry if I am being to long-winded. I hope I have helped in a small way.


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## JoeSchmoe (Jul 24, 2014)

I have an 11"x17" end-grain cutting board that is supposedly made from yellow birch. I have been trying to use it, and I don't especially like it. 

1. It's very heavy and therefore difficult to wash and/or dry. I tend to cut something up and then move the cutting board over to a pot/pan and slide the food into the pan. The weight and size of this board makes it difficult to do this. 

2. Due to it's size and thickness, I don't know what to do with it when it's not in use. It takes up a lot of space wherever I put it. I actually have a lot of counter space in the kitchen but putting the cutting board on the counter takes up that whole section of countertop. 

3. It sucks up oil like a sponge. When I first bought it, I was oiling it every day and the oil just kept soaking in. I think I went through a whole bottle of oil in this way. Anytime I oil it, the oil immediately is absorbed. How often should I oil it?


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## WildBoar (Jul 24, 2014)

1. Try moving the cut up items to a bowl, sheet pan, etc. for transfer to the stove area. I have to do this myself since my cutting board is 8+ feet from the stove. 2. No real words of wisdom here except leave it on the counter if possible. 3. Sounds like it has never been oiled enough. I believe BoardSmith gives his boards an immersion bath before he packs them up and sends them out. I suggest you keep oiling until it takes a long time for the oil to soak in (say 20+ minutes before it all disappears). Once you finally get it to that point you should only have to oil every few weeks, or maybe even longer in between. Of course try and keep the board away from a heat source (HVAC vent, side of stove, etc.), as the heat will dry it out fast. Hopefully you will be able to enjoy the board more going forward than you have previously.


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