# Low grit stones



## ABranson (Apr 18, 2017)

What Low grit stones would people suggest. Was thinking about naniwa pro stone 400 grit. Looking for something that's s&g, not crazy aggressive or eats a lot of metal but does a nice easy job. Don't want a hassle of a stone. Wanna keep it less than 70$. What do you guys think?


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## foody518 (Apr 18, 2017)

location? 
if you're in the US then you can get almost every decent sized coarse stone for like $75 or less
The Naniwa Pro 400 fits those traits you specified. I'd put it more at like would appreciate a 1 minute or less quick rinse or soak, or otherwise use with a generous pool of water on it starting out
Is this gonna be a thinning stone, a quick bevel setter, etc.? Intended use?


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## ABranson (Apr 18, 2017)

foody518 said:


> location?
> if you're in the US then you can get almost every decent sized coarse stone for like $75 or less
> The Naniwa Pro 400 fits those traits you specified. I'd put it more at like would appreciate a 1 minute or less quick rinse or soak, or otherwise use with a generous pool of water on it starting out
> Is this gonna be a thinning stone, a quick bevel setter, etc.? Intended use?



I'm not entirely educated on the different between thinning and bevel setting. I really just need a stone to freshen up edges when steel is weakened and occasionally set a new angle for a bevel. Explain thinning?


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## Devon_Steven (Apr 19, 2017)

Thinning explained, and then demonstrated, by Jon Brioda:

[video=youtube;3jsTtnidY3w]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3jsTtnidY3w&index=15&list=PLEBF55079F53216AB[/video]

[video=youtube;twP_05UEHIM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twP_05UEHIM&index=16&list=PLEBF55079F53216AB[/video]


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2017)

I think Gesshin 320 (or JNS 300 which is a very similar stone) would fit your needs very well. 100% S&G (should not be soaked at all), not too aggressive, leaves finer scratch pattern than the grit # would suggest. It dishes rather slowly (for its grit).


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## labor of love (Apr 19, 2017)

You would probably love a cerax 320(cuts fast, feels good, splash and go). I really need to try these new low grits jki is offering.


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## JBroida (Apr 19, 2017)

cerax 320 isnt splash and go... enjoyable stone though


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## labor of love (Apr 19, 2017)

JBroida said:


> cerax 320 isnt splash and go... enjoyable stone though



Panda loves it, I figured it must be splash and go. Really?


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## JBroida (Apr 19, 2017)

really... soaks quickly, but needs some soaking for sure


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## labor of love (Apr 19, 2017)

I liked it too. So it's a 5-10min soaker as described by vendors that carry it.


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## zetieum (Apr 19, 2017)

If I may highjacked the thread:what would be for you a good, fast, that does no dish too fast, that can be followed by a AI-1000, or by a orange Thai (~800 grit)? (splash and go or to soak).


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2017)

zetieum said:


> If I may highjacked the thread:what would be for you a good, fast, that does no dish too fast, that can be followed by a AI-1000, or by a orange Thai (~800 grit)? (splash and go or to soak).



Well, coarse stones are either hard and slow dishing, or fast. But JNS 300 or Gesshin 320 could be what you might like. If you would like to try the JNS 300, then I could lend you mine (I will be sending you a package in few weeks time anyhow 

Another option could be the 300A diamond stone from Jon, but that depends on the budget


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## foody518 (Apr 19, 2017)

zetieum said:


> If I may highjacked the thread:what would be for you a good, fast, that does no dish too fast, that can be followed by a AI-1000, or by a orange Thai (~800 grit)? (splash and go or to soak).



Naniwa Pro 400 will follow those 2 for sure. I haven't tried Gesshin 320 followed by my Orange Thai Binsui, but for sure can be followed by synth 1k stone


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## ABranson (Apr 19, 2017)

So, as it stands my lineup would go from whatever coarse stone I get to a beater 1200, to naniwa aotoshi, to Rika 5k. Seems ppl are suggesting gesshin 320, jns 300, or stick with naniwa 400. Which of these is the slowest disher and which is the fastest cutter?


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## foody518 (Apr 19, 2017)

Naniwa is not going to be the fastest cutter and it might leave the finest finish (less low grit by comparison)
Why the Naniwa aotoshi?


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2017)

ABranson, you do not need another stone between Bester 1200 and Rika 5k.


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## ABranson (Apr 19, 2017)

Cuz right now I have soft German stainless and I have read that the aotoshi treats soft stainless fairly well. I don't really need to go up to the rika cuz it won't do much for my knife. Just wanna have a 5k on hand. And the aotoshi seems like a cool stone to play around with. So mainly it would be my finisher and I'd finish on my leather strop


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2017)

OK, that make sense. We are not going to stop you from getting a stone to play around


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## Mucho Bocho (Apr 19, 2017)

Ari, Understand, there's thinning and there's THINNING. 

A thinning grit would be ~400 to 800 (depending on the material and character of the stone)

A THINNING grit would ideally be 300 or below (depending on the materials and character of the stone

After years of sharpening my

thinning stone 500 Shapton Glass 10mm
THINNING stone King 300 Deluxe

These stones would fit nicely into a progression with the Bester 1200 and S. Rika 5K you picked up from me. I'd suggest picking up the 500 Glass stone and see if its fast enough for you. Just my suggestions...

Personally, I'd call Jon at JKI. I think that's one recommendation everyone on the forum will agree with.


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## foody518 (Apr 19, 2017)

Just want to point out that you can also finish soft stainless on the Bester plus strop. Or Bester, light strokes on the Rika, then strop. In case you're deciding how to allocate funds and something else is on your list XD.


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2017)

The advice from MB is sound. Should you need a real nastard stone for heavy work, then get the Bester 220 (or some of its other incarnations) later.


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## ABranson (Apr 19, 2017)

Mucho Bocho said:


> Ari, Understand, there's thinning and there's THINNING.
> 
> A thinning grit would be ~400 to 800 (depending on the material and character of the stone)
> 
> ...



Could you do the same thing with a thinning stone as you could a THINNING stone but just have it take more time? Some ppl have regarded shaptons as really aggressive. Do you agree?


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## foody518 (Apr 19, 2017)

I got a Gesshin 220 when my regular coarse stone was taking too&#8203; long and going through too much wear and dishing for what I needed to do. Your judgment call on when to use what
Also the more motions you make the more likely you'll mess up the angle at least once and scuff up the blade face more than you meant to


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## Mucho Bocho (Apr 19, 2017)

Ari, Absolutely you could do the same work with a thinning stone as a THINNING stone, just takes longer. No I don't find the Shapton 500 aggressive at all, it has really nice feedback too. 

Understand this, if you plan on thinning/THINNING a knife, your either going to have to learn to refinish the blade or live with the scratches. for most of us, blade refinishing takes three to four times that amount of work as does sharpening.


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## ABranson (Apr 19, 2017)

Mucho Bocho said:


> Ari, Absolutely you could do the same work with a thinning stone as a THINNING stone, just takes longer. No I don't find the Shapton 500 aggressive at all, it has really nice feedback too.
> 
> Understand this, if you plan on thinning/THINNING a knife, your either going to have to learn to refinish the blade or live with the scratches. for most of us, blade refinishing takes three to four times that amount of work as does sharpening.



I emailed Jon to get his perspective. And I already have sandpapers and 000 and 0000 steel wool so I have what I need to fix all scratches. (Had to get it after coworker "cleaned" my knife with normal steel wool from the dish pit. Scratches? Only a little haha)

And maybe this is a silly question but can I use a THINNING stone for thinning haha


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2017)

Yes you can, but after using THINNING stone you also want to use a thinning one to get the scratches out. Going from 220 straight to 1200 would be just too much work with the 1200.


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## ABranson (Apr 19, 2017)

Matus said:


> Yes you can, but after using THINNING stone you also want to use a thinning one to get the scratches out. Going from 220 straight to 1200 would be just too much work with the 1200.



so going from a gesshin 320 or naniwa 400 may be ok to go to 1200, but would take a little more work in the first step?


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## foody518 (Apr 19, 2017)

ABranson said:


> so going from a gesshin 320 or naniwa 400 may be ok to go to 1200, but would take a little more work in the first step?



It really just depends on what or how much you're trying to do. At some point you gotta just mess around a bit with stuff to develop that feel of what 'makes sense' in that kind of situation


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## zetieum (Apr 19, 2017)

ABranson said:


> I emailed Jon to get his perspective. And I already have sandpapers and 000 and 0000 steel wool so I have what I need to fix all scratches. (Had to get it after coworker "cleaned" my knife with normal steel wool from the dish pit. Scratches? Only a little haha)
> 
> And maybe this is a silly question but can I use a THINNING stone for thinning haha



Please share his thoughts with us!


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## labor of love (Apr 19, 2017)

ABranson said:


> so going from a gesshin 320 or naniwa 400 may be ok to go to 1200, but would take a little more work in the first step?



So for example, what I do is thin with either an atoma diamond plate or 220 stone. Then I clean up with a king 300 and gesh 400. Then maybe a king 800. Then, I sharpen the edge.


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## GRoc (Apr 19, 2017)

The naniwa pro 400 --> Naniwa aotoshi is a great combo for soft stainless or german steel.

The cerax 320 is a much softer and muddier stone compared to the naniwa pro 400 and definitely needs a good 20 min soak. Manage your mud in order to avoid scratches on the face/side of the blade if you decide to get the cerax 320


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## labor of love (Apr 19, 2017)

labor of love said:


> So for example, what I do is thin with either an atoma diamond plate or 220 stone. Then I clean up with a king 300 and gesh 400. Then maybe a king 800. Then, I sharpen the edge.



I just realized I didn't directly answer you. If you're looking for the next step after a 400 grit I'd be hesitant to recommend a stone based on grit because diff stones have diff purposes and leave diff scratch patterns, auto sandpaper is an option to.


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## LifeByA1000Cuts (Apr 19, 2017)

A huge grit jump (cho 400 straight to a BB or coticule or crox) also gives you a usable, albeit different edge (it slices. it kinda ... uh... doesn't like to dice  )


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