# what's the right tool for sharp my knifes for a santoku and a european chef knife?



## luko (Jul 17, 2014)

hi guys,


I've got a Victorinox Fibrox wide blade 8-Inch Chef's Knife and a 7-Inch zwilling santoku motion (it's not a 4 strars. check there [http://database.zwilling.com/artikelbilder/artikelbild.php/artikel_id/63312/size/600)



1) what's the right sharpening steel for sharp mi knifes? 

2) do I need 2 different sharpening steel?pls tell me why, I want learn 

3) is a set of 2 water stone better? why? but isn't a sharpening steel cheaper? 


pls use a basic english, I'm not english mother tongue
thank you


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## daveb (Jul 17, 2014)

I like the diamond plates for stainless knives like yours. They sharpen knives quickly and wear out very slowly. This product will work for you:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H6L6FA/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

A sharpening steel will clean the edge of your knives and can be used between sharpening sessions. It will not do well for sharpening. 1 would be enough.

What is your mother tongue? There are people on here from all over the world.


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## Ruso (Jul 17, 2014)

Sharpening steel will not sharpen a knife. It will make the edge last longer.
If Diamond Plate is not yours, you can buy Norton IB-8 Combo, works well for cheap stainless.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XK5ZDY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Also you can try water stones. Good beginner stone King 1000. But King is much slower then the Norton. King can be used as next step from Norton IB-8 for more refined result. This is because King is a higher grit stone.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0016VC46A/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
Or King combo 1000/6000
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0037MCLLO/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


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## Benuser (Jul 17, 2014)

Don't use a rod. It will fatigue the steel, and the fatigued steel has to get abraded with the next sharpening session. I use a Chosera 800 with these stainless, and deburr perhaps on a 2k. For maintenance strop on the 2k.
For stones in Europe, have a look at knivesandtools.com


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## luko (Jul 17, 2014)

thank you guys: I didn't know who the sharpening steel cant sharp my knifes. I was wrong 

to be honest I didn't think who the tools for sharp my knifes could cost more than my knifes 

anyway I'm an italian pizza maker. sometimes I work around Europe

I have another question: what can I use when I don't have the time to use the water stones? I found that at 15: Zwilling Ceramic Knife Sharpener http://i01.i.aliimg.com/wsphoto/v0/...rpeners-Stone-Grindstone-Tool.jpg_220x220.jpg


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## Benuser (Jul 17, 2014)

I happen to know both the Victorinox and the Zwilling Motion, and both are better off with stropping on a 2k, I believe. Stay away from gadgets, please.


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## LKH9 (Jul 17, 2014)

"Sharpening" steel's real purpose is for straightening and re-aligning back rolled edges. It's a maintenance tool. You need to get one also.

Get either SILICON CARBIDE or DIAMOND.


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## luko (Jul 18, 2014)

I understand: no cheap rubbish, the right tool for a good job 



Benuser said:


> I happen to know both the Victorinox and the Zwilling Motion, and both are better off with stropping on a 2k, I believe. Stay away from gadgets, please.



what does "2k" mean? 2000 grit?



LKH9 said:


> "Sharpening" steel's real purpose is for straightening and re-aligning back rolled edges. It's a maintenance tool. You need to get one also.
> 
> Get either SILICON CARBIDE or DIAMOND.



I've got a cheap Vogue Diamond Sharpening Steel http://www.nisbets.co.uk/vogue-diamond-steel-30-5cm/D161/ProductDetail.raction can this rubbish work?


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## LKH9 (Jul 18, 2014)

luko said:


> I understand: no cheap rubbish, the right tool for a good job
> 
> 
> 
> ...



You need a "real" STEEL with vertical grooves along the surface, which is not abrasive at all. Stay away from abrasive steels please.

Most people really have no idea what "steel" is made for, seriously. It's to repair rolled edge of soft stainless knives.


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## luko (Jul 18, 2014)

thank you guys. your advices are precious 

so, all what I need are 2 stones for sharpening and a steel with vertical grooves for the maintenance? 

what grid? 400/1000? 600/1000?

and is a sandpaper good for keep flat the stones? or do I need a specific tool for flattening?


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## LKH9 (Jul 18, 2014)

If it's not traditional Japanese knife, you won't need waterstones for the rough grinding, just get silicon carbide + a good finishing stone, maybe waterstone here will be good for finishing.


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## luko (Jul 19, 2014)

LKH9 said:


> If it's not traditional Japanese knife, you won't need waterstones for the rough grinding, just get silicon carbide + a good finishing stone, maybe waterstone here will be good for finishing.



are a silicon carbide (maybe a combo 400\1000? or 250\1000? or 400\800?) + finishing stone (2000? 1200? 1500?) enough? do I need steel with vertical grooves (for the maintenance) as well?


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## LKH9 (Jul 19, 2014)

luko said:


> are a silicon carbide (maybe a combo 400\1000? or 250\1000? or 400\800?) + finishing stone (2000? 1200? 1500?) enough? do I need steel with vertical grooves (for the maintenance) as well?



I dunno, but the common silicon stones I see are very rough, I don't know what grit they are. But that doesn't matter much, you only need a good finishing stone for making the microbevel, the final edge that you want.

Use this setup when honing on your finishing stone. Grip the dowel/rod/chopstick/wood firmly against the knife body with both hands. This will guarantee a consistent angle and save your time.





















Get a grooved steel if you can.


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## Benuser (Jul 19, 2014)

Carburundum (SiC) stones are great for removing a lot of steel, and are indeed meant to be used with huge pressure. I use them for fat stainless European blades. Both the Victorinox and the Zwilling Motion series are another category. Geometry is rather thin, I would use coarse waterstones. And, again, forget about a steeling rod, it won't help you.


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## luko (Jul 20, 2014)

very good advices guys. thank you


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## osakajoe (Jul 21, 2014)

Don't use training wheels. If your just starting learn, learn the correct way and making mistakes is the only way to get better. Get your hands use to the feel of sharpening and to keep a consistent angle.


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