# Kitchen wall mount ducted hood advice



## MontezumaBoy (Nov 19, 2020)

Looking to see what folks here have installed recently ... starting a new kitchen design and am looking for input. 

Range/cooktop is likely 36" or 48" (Bluestar) so need some decent extraction so thinking >800 CFM (for 36) and >1200 (for 48).

Haven't bought a new hood in >15 years so any help / info on recent purchases would be appreciated.

Thx


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## Dull_Apex (Nov 19, 2020)

Do you care about the noise generated? There are some designs now that put the motor in the roof cavity to make it quieter.


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## MontezumaBoy (Nov 20, 2020)

Thx D_A - looking at both internal & external blowers just trying to understand what the implications are to an external one that would be in the roof cavity (particularly as I have moved to a part of the US that gets weather now ... LOL). I generally don't care noise wise since when I need the extraction I am making some 'noise' anyway but to be fair there is the "wife/partner" variable to consider but I doubt that will be an issue.

My last home had a hood (~800 CFM max) and full out it was loudish ... but the number of times I ran it at that level was minimum ... likely going a bit higher volume as I want to increase the burner sizes so ...

Thx for the reply


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## WildBoar (Nov 20, 2020)

Been almost a decade since our work, but the Vent-A-Hood we got fits nicely over a 36" w range (the hood is 42" w) and does something like 1,100 or 1,200 cfm. It has two separate fans; the first is 2-speed (and has a sensor). Takes three halogen (or LED) bulbs across the front and has an option for two heat lamps in the back.

Once you get in this range of CFM air supply can be an issue. If we are doing something that will generate a bit of smoke we need to crack a window in the adjacent family room for make-up air so the air flows properly on a path that will pick up and carry out the smoke. Also we go not have a grilltop; if you get a range with a grill on part of it go with a wider hood, and think higher CFM (which may then trigger the need to go with a remote fan unit, as the in-hood fans typically max out around 1200 cfm. Although it's possible that has changed over the last decade.

The Vent-A-Hood is a nice stainless steel hood -- it got a nice pro-sumer look and build quality. Much better than the builder-grade vent-A-Hoods put in houses in the 1960s and 1970s.

'Course Bluestar has their own range hood$$$$$$$ now. But the Vent-A-Hood was a great bang-for-the-buck purchase.


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## Paraffin (Nov 20, 2020)

WildBoar said:


> Once you get in this range of CFM air supply can be an issue. If we are doing something that will generate a bit of smoke we need to crack a window in the adjacent family room for make-up air so the air flows properly on a path that will pick up and carry out the smoke.



That's an important consideration if you're getting into the higher power hoods. We installed a huge custom copper hood with twin blowers in our kitchen remodel years ago. The vent draw was enough that we added a duct vent below the built-in cabinets with an intake flapper to the outside that would vent outside air into the kitchen when the fans were blowing at max capacity. 

You could crack a window as an alternative, but if you have the money to spend and you're installing a serious vent hood, it's worth going a little extra for an intake vent. Otherwise you're wasting some of that ventilation power while the fan tries to find enough intake air.


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## MontezumaBoy (Nov 20, 2020)

Thx Wildboar & Paraffin ... I have been chatted with the designer/builder to add the 'spare air' vent intake - apparently it is code up in the area so that is being discussed. Very much appreciate the input/reminder though ...

David - I had been trying to remember the name "Vent-A-Hood" when I did my original remodel they were also a contender at the time but I couldn't remember it for what ever reason ... and yes - I say that bluestar did hoods and NO that ain't worth the money ... many other goodies in that kitchen are already in line (starting with the range/cooktop/ovens/refrig/etc.) to take the $$$ ... since I don't live in the dream world of HGTV BS ... LOL


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## WildBoar (Nov 21, 2020)

If it's any consolation, my fridge is a 15 year old Maytag that I bought off the store's floor as a display model the ight my old fridge crapped out. When we redid the kitchen we built a nook for it instead of going for a $$$ fridge. We also salvaged and reused our Maytag dishwasher since it was only a couple years old. We bought a KitchenAid double oven (not a fancy-looking one), a mid-grade KitchenAid dishwasher and a stand-alone KitchenAid mini fridge that we put into a nook under one of the counters (much cheaper than a true built-in unit). You can drop serious $$$ on the 'architectural' appliances and not get any better functionality then the less expensive lines form the same manufacturers. With the exception of the Bluestar range our appliances blend into the background rather then being the visual focal points. We used the granite countertops as the main focal points.


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## MontezumaBoy (Nov 21, 2020)

thx for the thoughts always appreciated.


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## AT5760 (Nov 21, 2020)

Very interested in what you find.


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## Macaroni (Nov 22, 2020)

I put in a Proline a couple years ago over my 36” kitchenaide commercial and it works well. 1400 CFM dual motor is pretty powerful. Loud on full speed but when your searing meat indoors you need it. Also way more affordable the the blue star. Most 36-42 are under a grand.






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## Macaroni (Nov 22, 2020)

Also +1 on the intake vent. In any modern home with tight instillation you need it. Also think about position, you don’t want the intake creating a cross-wind that pulls the smoke out from under the hood. Ideally the vent is “behind you” (while youre standing at the range cooking). To the left or right and you run the risk of the cross-wind effect.


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## pleue (Nov 22, 2020)

It’s called make-up air and it is code in most places above a certain cfm. It’s wired to be switched on when you switch on the hood. I’ve mounted them all over the place in a kitchens (toe kicks are quite common) but our cleanest looking install was under the range itself though it would be finicky if you had a gas oven. Vent a hoods are quite nice and their baffle design is easy to clean. I’d go the largest you can if you have a wok burner. Look for your areas higher end appliance dealers and look into their outlet/scratch and dent sales. Lots of deals to be had especially toward the high end. Also look at habitat type stores or CL since people get fickle with their kitchens all the time - I bought our 1000 cfm ventahood for $100 and our 1200cfm copper abbaka for $300.


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## MontezumaBoy (Nov 22, 2020)

Thx all for the info/suggestions and tips on make-up air ... something that will need to be addressed for sure. My '74 house in San Diego never had a "too tight" issue ... especially given the fact that if I closed the windows it was due to local fires not rain or cold ... Pacific Northwest & new contruction will make for quite a different mix of variables ... 

Pleue - thx / I have time so getting certain items ahead of time would be both beneficial and cost effective ... may have to look in the direction of Seattle area but we shall see ...


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## coxhaus (Nov 23, 2020)

I put in a Viking vent hood when I remodeled our kitchen a couple of years ago. You buy the motor separate that way if you want one of those quiet attic motors then you can buy one. I just bought the standard hood motor. It is fairly quiet and I mainly run it on low. I really like the Viking vent hood. I bought it half price new when they were changing the models. The same with the Viking 6-burner range I installed which I got from craigslist.


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## Dull_Apex (Nov 23, 2020)

Pleues comment on kickers reminded me: if you get a built in oven, the space directly below can be made into a drawer so that you can store spare shelves or wide trays. 

Our oven was too tall so there's a secret kicker drawer (it has a pull hidden by the bottom of the cabinet) which we use that way.


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## coxhaus (Nov 23, 2020)

I ended up with a small space when we cut the cabinets that I turned into a cutting board drawer. There just seems not to be anywhere to store cutting boards in a kitchen. This worked out great. The drawer is mounted on 2 dove tail slides to handle all the weight.

This is in the building stage as the walls have not been finished. The bottom picture is closer to finished. I thought it would take a couple of weeks to finish when it really took 3 months of working almost every day. Good thing I was retired.


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## Kgp (Nov 23, 2020)

MontezumaBoy said:


> Looking to see what folks here have installed recently ... starting a new kitchen design and am looking for input.
> 
> Range/cooktop is likely 36" or 48" (Bluestar) so need some decent extraction so thinking >800 CFM (for 36) and >1200 (for 48).
> 
> ...


I've used Proline in last two homes. Couldn't be happier. Available on Amazon or direct from them. Very high quality for the money.
Ken


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## coxhaus (Nov 23, 2020)

My kitchen originally had a small cook top and wall oven which my wife complained about all the time. So, I and a buddy cut all that out and modified the old cabinets to fit the new Viking 36-inch range. We added LED end to end lighting to make sure there was enough light doing kitchen chores. I also installed a larger sized vent pipe which seems to make the vent hood quieter. Think about maybe enlarging your vent pipe size when you install your new vent hood.

The Viking cook top is a pleasure to use large pans on. The big burner keeps you from burning food by not having hot spots using little burners with larger pans. And now we can cook a really large turkey in our 36-inch oven. We were limited with our old wall oven.


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## WildBoar (Nov 23, 2020)

coxhaus said:


> I ended up with a small space when we cut the cabinets that I turned into a cutting board drawer. There just seems not to be anywhere to store cutting boards in a kitchen. This worked out great. The drawer is mounted on 2 dove tail slides to handle all the weight.


We have a double wall oven, and turned the space above into a double-wide wall cabinet with vertically-oriented slots for baking sheets.


Dull_Apex said:


> Pleues comment on kickers reminded me: if you get a built in oven, the space directly below can be made into a drawer so that you can store spare shelves or wide trays.
> Our oven was too tall so there's a secret kicker drawer (it has a pull hidden by the bottom of the cabinet) which we use that way.


I stumbled on a Decor warming drawer on Craigslist, so we had it installed below the double oven. It serves as roasting pan storage most of the time.


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## coxhaus (Dec 9, 2020)

I was getting ready to clean my vent hood filters and I thought I would add a couple of pictures for the underneath of my vent hood for people to see. The filters are easy to clean as they lift out and you soak them in a sink of soapy water. The second picture is of the vent hood motor. It is considerably quieter than my old small vent hood motor which was tiny.


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## TB_London (Dec 9, 2020)

Put a new kitchen in last year and went through this process.

I went big as our kitchen is open plan and was fed up of searing steaks causing smoke alarms to go off. I also put the motor in the roof space, to reduce the noise. It’s still loud on full at 1300 m3/hr due to the air movement, but nowhere near others that are louder and extract less. On low it’s virtually silent, but pulls enough for pans of boiling water. 
It’s over a 36” wolf gas range which has been so much nicer to cook on than a typical gas hob in the uk.

Cost more, but I use it everyday and enjoy using it with none of the frustrations I had before.


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## coxhaus (Dec 10, 2020)

We cook at lot at home and now it is so much more fun. 

I thought about an attic motor but it was like $1700 vs $600. Which is not a lot but I would also need to run power up high as I use a 7-foot latter in the attic to reach the roof. I already had to run 1 circuit down for the range. The other thing is in Texas attics reach 130 degrees in the summer time which is probably not good for motors. As it turns out with the larger vent pipe my current vent motor is a lot quieter than my old small vent hood with the small motor.


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## Tristan (Dec 10, 2020)

TB_London said:


> Put a new kitchen in last year and went through this process.
> 
> I went big as our kitchen is open plan and was fed up of searing steaks causing smoke alarms to go off. I also put the motor in the roof space, to reduce the noise. It’s still loud on full at 1300 m3/hr due to the air movement, but nowhere near others that are louder and extract less. On low it’s virtually silent, but pulls enough for pans of boiling water.
> It’s over a 36” wolf gas range which has been so much nicer to cook on than a typical gas hob in the uk.
> ...


Any particular brand for the hood extractor?
How are you finding the wolf?


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## TB_London (Dec 10, 2020)

Westin- they’re a UK brand that manufacture them. If I’d done some more hunting could have found the blower for less as pretty sure they just rebrand them and add a markup.

Enjoying the Wolf, is better than any other gas hob I’ve used. The US does seem to have better options than we see in UK. Simmer settings on the burners are useful and means the 4 rings cover all bases, and have enough space that can have full size pans on each of them. The griddle/teppan heats well too, pancakes most weekends and today for lunchtime monte cristo sandwiches.


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## coxhaus (Jan 11, 2021)

So, I was reading up on hood vents and it seems like you need to have a 10 or 12 inch vent pipe going through your roof for 1200 cfm or greater. Does anybody know?

I used an 8-inch pipe for my vent hood through my roof. I originally had a 6 inch from my old vent hood necked down to a 4 inch.


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## WildBoar (Jan 11, 2021)

It's a function of the motor, the distance, and the number/ types of elbows. I think my Vent-a-hood recommended a 9 inch diameter for the short run I had, but it is pretty normal to see recommendations for 10 inch diameter. There should in the installation manual for your particular hood. Often the minimum recommendation is good for a run that may be 10s of feet longer than what you will have in your installation.


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## TB_London (Jan 11, 2021)

I ran a 10” with the blower halfway through and only one bend. Trying to suck a lot of air through a narrow pipe drops the volume and increases the load on the motor. The blower should come with guidance on the duct size needed for the length of run.

Having enough airflow into the room is another factor, the air getting sucked out needs to be replaced.


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## coxhaus (Jan 11, 2021)

I have 2 45-degree angles as my stove is offset to where the pipe goes through the roof. I do have a spare roof vent that was my old gas wall oven. I have it plugged right now. I guess I could tie in and use 2 roof vents if I needed to move more air. I think I am fine right now. If I would have gone with a 48-inch Viking then a 8-inch vent pipe would be too small as you need to be able to move more air with the larger ranges.


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## DT74 (Jan 15, 2021)

Whatever you do, my recommendation would be to get the highest CFM you can and do it with a remote motor. My builder screwed up and couldn’t accommodate the remote as a result, the noise kills me every time I use it


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## coxhaus (Jan 16, 2021)

DT74 said:


> Whatever you do, my recommendation would be to get the highest CFM you can and do it with a remote motor. My builder screwed up and couldn’t accommodate the remote as a result, the noise kills me every time I use it


What vent hood do you have? What size is your vent pipe? You have to match vent pipe and motor/fan size. You can't do one without the other. When I was looking for vent hoods only some vent hoods allowed remote motor locations as some had built-in motors.

My Viking vent hood is very quiet compared with my previous vent hoods. It has the option for remote motor setup but I don't think it is necessary. If I had a 48 inch, I might think different as you need to move more air with the larger vent hood. My 36-inch seems OK to me now. I can change mine at any time. I just need to run power and splice it in. You should be able to change yours if your vent hood supports it.

The other aspect of a large vent hood is the very large pipe sticking through your roof to vent. I did not want a 12-inch pipe sticking through my roof as I think it looks funny.

And last but not least you can always change your vent hood to be one that supports a remote motor/fan.


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## DT74 (Jan 17, 2021)

I have a two-story house. As I was told, the issue is that the exhaust runs between the two levels horizontally two it’s exit point. The remote Motor needs to be set up at the end of that exhaust piping and there wasn’t enough height room to accommodate it


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## coxhaus (Jan 17, 2021)

I have not installed a remote motor/fan but I don't see why it can't go lower if it is an issue. How big is your vent pipe? I am not sure they make remote motor/fan units for smaller vent pipes. The ones I looked at start at 7-inch but I don't really know. Oh, how wide is your vent. I was looking at 36- and 48-inch vents, mainly 36 inch when I was thinking about a range. Either range size would have fit in my kitchen.


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