# Getting pins flush with handle scales



## chiffonodd (Jun 1, 2015)

When I did my first western rehandle the other day, I had a real bear of a time getting the pins to be 100% flush with the scales.

I wasn't able to tell if this was because the wood (cocobolo) just continually sanded faster than the pins (3/16 inch stainless rod), or if it was because the pins were fitted a bit too tight and we're causing some bulging in the wood. Come to think of it, it may have been the latter because I wasn't feeling metal protruding from the handle so much as a sort of general raised area around the circumference of the pin -- almost like the metal and epoxy were displacing wood ever so slightly. 

Is this a common result of pins that are fitted too tightly? Or is this more likely caused by uneven sanding? If it's a sanding issue, how do you get them flush?

No power tools 

Thanks!

edit: PS the pin holes were drilled using a 3/16 bit so supposedly the round bar was the exact size as the hole. Had to be "encouraged" into the pin hole, read: lightly hammered.


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## Twistington (Jun 1, 2015)

The wood is abraded quicker than the pins, get some kind of backing material behind the sandpaper(wood, metal, hard rubber etc).


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## Benuser (Jun 1, 2015)

I use worn dry coarse sandpaper on linen to have them flush. My finger is the soft backing. You abrade a bit of both steel and wood until they flush. No big pressure.


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## chiffonodd (Jun 1, 2015)

Thanks for the responses - do you prefer "pin-point" (lol . . .) pressure with your finger right above the pin to try to abrade that area specifically, or even pressure throughout? 

Also, anyone ever use a softer material like aluminum?


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## Benuser (Jun 1, 2015)

I use an overall light pressure.


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## Dave Martell (Jun 1, 2015)

Twistington said:


> The wood is abraded quicker than the pins, get some kind of backing material behind the sandpaper(wood, metal, hard rubber etc).




This is the answer. 

Also, when doing 100% by hand files can help for doing the rough work.


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## chiffonodd (Jun 1, 2015)

Dave Martell said:


> This is the answer.
> 
> Also, when doing 100% by hand files can help for doing the rough work.



Thanks Dave - I assume the harder the better, if the purpose is to ensure that the sanding surface stays completely level?


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## Dave Martell (Jun 1, 2015)

chiffonodd said:


> I assume the harder the better, if the purpose is to ensure that the sanding surface stays completely level?




Yes...but....sometimes you just have to go with a softer substrate - like for rounded sections. Hard rubber and that type of thing can help here.


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