# Straightening a Tang for Custom Wa-Handle Install



## aboynamedsuita (Dec 20, 2016)

I am installing some wa-handles on my honyaki knives (pics and more details later once I'm done). One of the tangs kind of bends off at a bit of an angle, so when fitted it causes the blade to deflect a bit from the straight line projection of the handle to the right.

This pic shows the left side of the sujihiki laying flat, and the tang is flat for about the first 35mm or so, then it has a kink/bend, but then everything after is flat. 






Any suggestions on how to remedy?

I tried protecting the blade and the first 30mm of the tang then clamping between some 2X4s, and flex the tang back, but that doesn't seem to work too well not sure if it needs a more sudden and forceful movement, but being honyaki I'm kinda iffy even though the tang isn't hardened steel.

The other option I can think of is to try and hollow out the one side of the handle a bit more with a micro rasp to counter balance the displaced tang, but that could be risky too.

Lastly I could just live with it, although it may drive me nuts every time I see.

Any other thoughts, opinions and perspectives are welcome.

Thanks,
TJ


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## jessf (Dec 20, 2016)

Just whack it with a hammer.


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## aboynamedsuita (Dec 20, 2016)

I was kinda thinking that, but since it is honyaki Also thought the resonating vibrations could be a problem. Probably best to do the clamped 2X4s on the blade and first bit of the tang, then work the remainder of the tang on an anvil or equivalent with a hammer


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## panda (Dec 21, 2016)

cover the blade with clay, and then heat up where the heel meets the tang so you can bend it? (with a focused heat gun)


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## chefcomesback (Dec 21, 2016)

Wrap the blade with wet towel , Heat the tang with torch , with map gas it should hit red within 20 seconds , hit it hammer , taps rather than big hits . Repeat till it is flat . Honyaki tangs are easier than fully hardened blades , don't try this with stainless.


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## Burl Source (Dec 21, 2016)

jessf said:


> Just whack it with a hammer.


That is how I fix everything.


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## Nemo (Dec 21, 2016)

Burl Source said:


> That is how I fix everything.



Surely you use glue sometimes?&#128518;


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## aboynamedsuita (Dec 21, 2016)

Thanks for the input Mert.

Just to clarify, when I mentioned "my honyaki knives" I'm referring to J-knives that I own...


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## cheflivengood (Dec 21, 2016)

Have you tried to just bend it at the apex against, say the edge of a cutting board. I've straitened peoples knives like that for awhile. just be gentle......or whack it with a hammer haha


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## chefcomesback (Dec 21, 2016)

tjangula said:


> Thanks for the input Mert.
> 
> Just to clarify, when I mentioned "my honyaki knives" I'm referring to J-knives that I own...



No problems, This will work on honyaki knives regardless of where they are made.


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## Nemo (Dec 21, 2016)

Nemo said:


> Surely you use glue sometimes? &#128518;



For some reason, the emoticon didn't come through in the original. Just to be clear- this was meant to be humorous. Sorry if it fell flat.


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## JMJones (Dec 21, 2016)

you need to use heat to prevent cracking. The towel and torch method mentioned before is in my opinion the best option. You dont even have to go to red hot, anything above 400 F greatly reduces the chances of cracking.


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## Noah (Dec 21, 2016)

Nemo said:


> Surely you use glue sometimes?&#128518;



Duct tape.


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## Beau Nidle (Dec 24, 2016)

If you haven't done this already I second the heat option. I heat with a torch and straighten in a bench vice. As JMJones said it doesn't need to be red hot, you can do it easily at tempering temps, 400f ish.


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## aboynamedsuita (May 7, 2017)

Did this over the weekend
https://www.instagram.com/p/BTyIizAgWUF/

It's now straight enough that it'll install okay. Maybe if I had more experience or the blade wasn't expensive and already finish polished / sharpened I'd try more, but don't want to risk it if it ain't broke don't fix it.


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## zitangy (May 8, 2017)

I believe that this is quite common so that the handle installers in Japan do bend it so that after the install the knife is straight vis a vis handle .. both from the spine to handle and edge to handle ( choil shot). That's why there is a rounded head metal piece ( abt 4 inches thick) around them to hammer /bend the tang

On harder wood it wld be a challenge to burn it.. but can still be done. .. with emphasis on keeping the blade square to the handle... Spine and choil view .

Didnt hv the need to do it on a honyaki blade as I insisted that they do not adjust the tang but with the white steel... i do remember heating it up and clamping it in a vice and it worked.

hv fun.. Z


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