# Powered balde steel saw



## Matus (Apr 12, 2016)

Hi,

I am trying to improve on my efficiency and one of the tools I could really use is some sort of powered metal saw. There are obviously different possibilities - band saw, scroll saw, angle grinder or even Proxxon (supposed to be better than dremel) with grinding/cutting disc.

Obviously the cheapest solution would be an angle grinder, but I am not too crazy about the noise, dirt and sparks as my workshop is a rather confined place with plenty of fire-friendly material around. The Proxxon would be basically a miniaturized angle grinder, but could fine other use too - and it is also rather cheap. Band saw would probably be the best, but it seems that the ones that can actually cut steel are rather pricey and large - same goes for scroll saw. The last two options could be also used with handle making, what would be an advantage.

I am just wondering - what would be the best choice. I am not making any high volume, but after cutting 240mm gyuto out for 3mm thick D2 steel with a hack saw (took me about an hou) I am looking at less fitness oriented alternatives. On top of that - with large blades one must set the saw blade under an angle to the rest of the saw so that you can make a long cut - that makes the cutting really awkward.

I am located in Germany - so if you have some particular models in mind I would appreciate that. I would not mind buying a used equipment, but I need to be sure it is up to the task.

thanks 

EDIT: The are also angle grinders that run on Li-Ion batteries that could get the job done - advantage would be, that I could do it somewhere outdoors without letting our neighbours suffer too much. Question - would the battery (18V, 3-5Ah) last long enough.


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## RDalman (Apr 12, 2016)

Yup you're looking at either the band saw like femi 780xl with a table available as addon. Which is sort of pricey, or angle grinder... If I where you, I'd probably make some space "angle grinder safe" and cut out a bunch at one time, then deal with the cleanup...


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## jessf (Apr 12, 2016)

You can get a cheap bandsaw from most home improvement stores. $159 or so here in canada. The hard part is finding a blade that will fit with enough teeth per inch to cut the type and thickness of metal you want to cut.

It's often easy to find a blade with enough TPI, but rarely at the length you need to fit your cheaper bandsaw. The solution I to buy an oversized blade and have it resized at either a machine shop or sharpening shop. A blade can be cut, shortened then welded. I buy 64" blades at princess auto and have them resized down to 59.25" for $14 a piece. Very cheap and effective.


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## Matus (Apr 12, 2016)

Thanks, but welding is unfortunately not something I can do (or have experience with). But I get your point - before buying a bandsaw, check whether suitable blades are available. Actually - how many teeth per inch should the blade have?


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## jessf (Apr 12, 2016)

No I mean you can have the blades welded at most machine shops or if you're lucky the sharpening shop that serves those machine shops. Not do it yourself. If you live in an urban area these shops might not be near you but chances are they aren't far.

Generally you want 3 teeth in the material. So the thinner the material the higher the TPI. Generally.



Matus said:


> Thanks, but welding is unfortunately not something I can do (or have experience with). But I get your point - before buying a bandsaw, check whether suitable blades are available. Actually - how many teeth per inch should the blade have?


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## RDalman (Apr 12, 2016)

We're not as lucky in eu as being able to get a portaband for that kind of money. It's around 4-500 eur here for the things like Femi, so it's sort of an investment.


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## jessf (Apr 12, 2016)

What about this? 

https://www.bauhaus.info/bandsaegen/c/10000175


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## Matus (Apr 12, 2016)

jessf said:


> What about this?
> 
> https://www.bauhaus.info/bandsaegen/c/10000175



The two cheaper ones are not up to the task (info from messerforum.net) of cutting steel and are meant for wood or soft metal. Proxxon actually makes a lot of interesting tools, but very most of them are aimed at modelling (car, planes, ships, etc) and not for heavy use - what is a pity as it seems that their tools are of decent quality.


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## Matus (Apr 12, 2016)

But what about that accumulator powered angle grinder? If it would have enough power (I would not need it to cut more than 10-15 minutes in a row I guess) it could be a solution ... but cheap it is of course not - around 200


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## jessf (Apr 12, 2016)

I can't say from experience with the brand but if it's anything close to the cheap ryobi junk we have here it can do what you want, with the right blade. Cutting 1" thick steel might not be possible but I doubt that's what you're doing.



Matus said:


> The two cheaper ones are not up to the task (info from messerforum.net) of cutting steel and are meant for wood or soft metal. Proxxon actually makes a lot of interesting tools, but very most of them are aimed at modelling (car, planes, ships, etc) and not for heavy use - what is a pity as it seems that their tools are of decent quality.


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## Matus (Apr 12, 2016)

I have dropped an email to Proxxon tech-rep (first only about the IBS/E) and they said it would manage, so I have also asked the question about their band saw and I am waiting for the answer.


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## WingKKF (Apr 12, 2016)

Have you checked out plasma cutters? Those look cool in a Star Wars way. They do throw off sparks like crazy but I don't think you can beat it in speed. They cut through steel like a hot knife through butter, literally. They will need some serious current capability from the mains power and and an air supply I think. Check out some of the Eastwood plasma cutter videos on youtube.


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## Matus (Apr 12, 2016)

My father worked for a company that builds those, so yeah, that could work, but I would have to make couple of thousands knives a day to make it economical


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## jessf (Apr 12, 2016)

I'll be surprised if they say it can, only because it would be operating outside the parameters of the warranty and they'd like you to buy the more expensive model with the ready made steel cutting blades. 




Matus said:


> I have dropped an email to Proxxon tech-rep (first only about the IBS/E) and they said it would manage, so I have also asked the question about their band saw and I am waiting for the answer.


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## jessf (Apr 12, 2016)

Stichsageblatt 

This would be an experiment. Carbide blade for a jigsaw.

https://www.bauhaus.info/saegeblaetter/craftomat-stichsaegeblatt-t-118-ahm-/p/11420706


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## Castalia (Apr 12, 2016)

What about a die grinder, like a dremel on steroids:http://www.amazon.com/Metabo-GE-950-950-watt-Variable/dp/B00FDLBAPA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1460492803&sr=1-1&keywords=metabo+die+grinder?

You have to plug it in but it is portable. Batteries may be powerful but I have to imagine cutting several inches of knife steel would be a tough challenge that an extension cord could solve.


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## jacko9 (Apr 12, 2016)

I can't tread German but if you buy a bandsaw make sure that it is for metal cutting (not wood) the speed range on wood cutting bandsaws is much too high for metal.


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## WingKKF (Apr 12, 2016)

The Eastwood 40 amp model(on sale now for $499.99) costs less than a 240mm Gesshin Kagekiyo gyuto. Assuming you can get one to work in your location or can get an equivalent, after a couple knives you might start to think it was well worth the investment. If you have a template set up, it would probably take about 30 seconds to cut out a knife shape. Salivate on that.


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## Matus (Apr 13, 2016)

WingKKF said:


> The Eastwood 40 amp model(on sale now for $499.99) costs less than a 240mm Gesshin Kagekiyo gyuto. Assuming you can get one to work in your location or can get an equivalent, after a couple knives you might start to think it was well worth the investment. If you have a template set up, it would probably take about 30 seconds to cut out a knife shape. Salivate on that.



Sorry, I though you were joking. The plasma cutting machine I had in in mind is this one:







Still - the tool you mention needs very hign currents I would not be able to provide and in that price category I would probably get a band saw, but it is interesting to know that such an option would exist.

Concerning the Proxxon - I am still waiting for answer, but as far as I know they do not make any more upscale machinery.

The die grinder - what would be the difference to angle grinder?


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## TB_London (Apr 13, 2016)

slitting disk in an angle grinder is the way to go for ease and speed. Cordless version should work fine if you're only doing a handful at a time


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## Matus (Apr 13, 2016)

I read some more on a German knife forum - apparently the Proxxon band saw is no go for steel (no wonder though) as are most other band saws that are build for wood as those are simply too fast.

Currently it seems that the options are: 
- angle grinder as 'quick, loud cheap & dirty' solution, 
- metal band saw that can be set to vertical positionwith some add-on table as a 'not cheap but solid' solution
- Proxxon as a mini-disc-grinder 'cheap & slow' solution

The battery powered angle grinders apparently may not have enough torque for the job, but that would have to be tested.


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## Matus (Apr 13, 2016)

I just got a reply from the Proxonn - the band saw 240/E is supposed to be able to manage knife steel with a suitable blade (28172 - HSS Bi-Metal). I am inclined to give it a try even though it will be surely slower than convetional steel band saw. Not only because it costs less, but also it is much small and space is something I do not have much of.


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## jessf (Apr 13, 2016)

Good show. Read up on "speeds and feeds". Your feed rate will be a function of type and thickness of metal and the blade you're able to find for it. In the end heat is your enemy as it will shorten the tool life.



Matus said:


> I just got a reply from the Proxonn - the band saw 240/E is supposed to be able to manage knife steel with a suitable blade (28172 - HSS Bi-Metal). I am inclined to give it a try even though it will be surely slower than convetional steel band saw. Not only because it costs less, but also it is much small and space is something I do not have much of.


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## Matus (Apr 13, 2016)

The apparent problem with the cheap vertical band saws is, that they are designed for wood and are thus way too fast to cut steel. I have googled more user experience with the proxxon band saw and while is it apparently a decent product, knife steel for stock (so thickness up to about 5mm or under 1/4") removal is probably pushing it too far. I am consider ordering it and getting a proper blade - in the worst case I would send it back and would only have the cost of the blade as that could not be returned then.

I an wondering whether I should not wait a little longer - if I get more serious with knifemaking I will have to rent some space for a workshop and then a decent metal band saw (about 500) would not be a problem space wise (f I want to get more serious I will have to get a proper belt grinder and a heat treating kiln anyway - two costly items).

I may try to borrow an angle grinder from a friend and see whether that would be possible (noise & dust) - as that is the fastest and cheapest solution.

There is simply, yet again, no free lunch


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## jessf (Apr 13, 2016)

The proxxon 240/E one you're looking at says in the product literature that it has a variable speed controller. I could see the speed chart on the unit in the bauhuas picture. Without knowing what the speeds are you'll have take a chance or do more research. It's important that you read up on "speeds and feeds" when it comes to cutting metal before buying any tool. Your concern with any tool will be heat gain and cutter degradation and finding an appropriate blade for the task. Generally, band saws with a fixed high rate of speed are for wood but for thinish steel with the right blade it can be done as I have done it. 



Matus said:


> The apparent problem with the cheap vertical band saws is, that they are designed for wood and are thus way too fast to cut steel. I have googled more user experience with the proxxon band saw and while is it apparently a decent product, knife steel for stock (so thickness up to about 5mm or under 1/4") removal is probably pushing it too far. I am consider ordering it and getting a proper blade - in the worst case I would send it back and would only have the cost of the blade as that could not be returned then.
> 
> I an wondering whether I should not wait a little longer - if I get more serious with knifemaking I will have to rent some space for a workshop and then a decent metal band saw (about 500) would not be a problem space wise (f I want to get more serious I will have to get a proper belt grinder and a heat treating kiln anyway - two costly items).
> 
> ...


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 15, 2016)

I know this auction has ended, but eBay is your friend...even in Deutschland.:biggrin: I would just keep my eyes open for a bit.
http://www.ebay.de/itm/Metall-Bands...D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
-Mark


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## Matus (Apr 15, 2016)

Indeed  For whatever reason I did not check out german ebay, there might be something useful there actually 

It seems however that I might have found a place where I could try to cut blanks with angle grinder. I guess I will try that first before buying a metal band saw.


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 15, 2016)

Excellent! Try to remember to wear a respirator if at all possible. ALL abrasives are harmful to lungs. I wish I'd worked a little smarter when I was young.
-Mark


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## Matus (Apr 15, 2016)

Thanks, I actually use respirator with most of the work I am doing (sawing, sanding). I am trying to be carefull in general - the only time I take down the polycarbonate glasses is if I am just drawing a profile on steel or taking notes. I also try to wear working gloves most of the time - spare me dozens of small wounds that woudl otherwise hurt for days and also keep my hands from looking like trash.


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## Castalia (Apr 15, 2016)

I did mention the die grinder which is like an angle grinder (quick, messy and loud), but I'll put in another word for hand tools. No muss no fuss, just an hour of sawing for a cardio work out. If you are just going to be making an occasional knife as a hobby every few weeks or months, it is still something to consider. If you really want to cut significant amounts of steel in a short time, budget for and use a proper metal band saw. I don't think the proxxon as a sort of intermediate step between a hand saw and a powerful metal band saw will make you happy in the end. I have been getting into hobby wood working after making several knife handles and seem to have been bitten by the hand tool bug. I have the time, but not a lot of space for a workshop full of large stationary power tools. So going slowly with hand tools (and a drill press) has been a reasonable way to pursue the hobby. I have not progressed to cutting out knife blanks or purchasing a belt grinder, but may one of these days.


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## Matus (Apr 15, 2016)

Hand tools are indeed my current situation. But after needing more than an hour to cut a 240mm gyuto-blank out of 3mm thick D2 steel (and then needing another hour with a coarse file to get that profile smooth) I would really appreciate a different option for these large knives. In particular since once the straight cut is longer than about 10mm, I have to tilt the blade so that the saw-bow can pass next to the steel being cut - and that is a real pita as you loose the balance. 

Still - the most time consuming part is beveling the blade with a file. I have so far invested cca 1 hour in that gyuto and extrapolating that experience it will be around 10 hours for the whole blade and another 2-5 hours on Atoma 140 after heat treat. So the tool I actually need most is a belt grinder 

The story is much different with some 100 mm outdoor/hunting knives where you can cut out the blank in less than 30 minutes and have the bevels in less than 2 hours with. But at the moment I am most interested in trying to make kitchen knives as I can actually test those myself.

EDIT: I agree that getting that under-powered little proxxon band saw is not a good investment. Once I will have the space (read - decide to rent some) than I will get something like Femi 780 XL + a table - together about 500 - that should be a solid solution. I only wish a decent belt grinder could be have for 500 (impossible in DE)


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## Castalia (Apr 15, 2016)

But are the 15 or 20 hours you spend shaping the blade enjoyable? You are pursuing your hobby and when you finish you will have something you will treasure (with a relatively modest outlay of money). If you really want to step up to producing a high volume of blades, buying the right gear like expensive high quality large stationary machines, like a metal band saw and a belt grinder will be what you should do. Buying cheap halfway machines will not improve your enjoyment of your hobby.


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## jessf (Apr 15, 2016)

Are you guys underestimate the proxxon? Variable speed and it even can be converted to wet cutting. A larger unit might just be that, larger. Bigger motor, if you need it maybe and bigger throat, but speed control and possible wet cutting would be the same or similar. Depends on how much volume your talking.

Features
Speed: 395 to 820 ft./minute (with feedback control)
Throat Depth: 5-29/32 inch with maximum work piece height of 3-13/32 inch
Table size 7-7/8 inch x 8-11/16 inch; 110-120V AC, 60 HZ
Includes adapter to connect with vacuum cleaner
Optional Coolant Kit, number 28188 available for wet cutting


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## Matus (Apr 15, 2016)

Castallia, it is indeed rewarding to manage to get a knife made literally by hands, but yes, I would like to step up my game at some point and you are 100% correct that buying cheap/halfway gear is not going to be cost efficient at the end. Also 20+ hours or work on a blade means it takes me about a month to get that done - that also makes making progress hard.

Jessf - you may be right, but the speed as you quote it is to my understanding too fast for steel - metal cutting band saws seem to have speeds of 20 - 80 m/minute (that would be about 65 - 200 ft./minute. . So it may be able to cut speed with a proper blade (there is one), but I am concerned about cooling - the blade guide (PROX-28187) which allows to attach a hose with coolant was discontinued in 2014 and I am not sure how long it will last. The problem is - there is not much user feedback and those who have the proxxon advice against cutting steel with it.


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## jessf (Apr 15, 2016)

Humm. It's a shame cause it looks like a decent unit. When my wood bandsaw bites the dust i'd consider a proxxon but at the same time I get all the metal cutting I need with my cheap ryobi so I'd probably just get another one. 



Matus said:


> Castallia, it is indeed rewarding to manage to get a knife made literally by hands, but yes, I would like to step up my game at some point and you are 100% correct that buying cheap/halfway gear is not going to be cost efficient at the end. Also 20+ hours or work on a blade means it takes me about a month to get that done - that also makes making progress hard.
> 
> Jessf - you may be right, but the speed as you quote it is to my understanding too fast for steel - metal cutting band saws seem to have speeds of 20 - 80 m/minute (that would be about 65 - 200 ft./minute. . So it may be able to cut speed with a proper blade (there is one), but I am concerned about cooling - the blade guide (PROX-28187) which allows to attach a hose with coolant was discontinued in 2014 and I am not sure how long it will last. The problem is - there is not much user feedback and those who have the proxxon advice against cutting steel with it.


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## jessf (Apr 15, 2016)

here's the proxxon in action. 
[video=youtube;XsFhLkaG-HM]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XsFhLkaG-HM[/video]

The coolant hopper is little more than a tank with a valve connected to a brass fitting via vinyl tubing, and a tray. You could totally make that.


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## Matus (Apr 15, 2016)

True, the cooling can be patched up. The machine also has a rather small footprint and it is not too heavy to store away (under the bench) when not in use. I guess I am not going to discard it just yet


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 15, 2016)

After seeing some videos and doing some reading, I have to say that as far as band saws go, considering the tasks you would be asking it to do, the Proxxon would have a very short lifespan and/or your frustration level with its performance would lead to some serious regret. I support using the right tool for the job whenever possible.
-Mark

p.s.- please take into consideration that where I live I'm tripping over surplus industrial quality equipment every time I turn around......it's tough to put myself in your shoes!


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## Matus (Apr 15, 2016)

That is what I fear Mark. Should the proxxon die after few blades it would not be the best investment. Here when I look at used machines I am sometimes asking the sanity of the seller - often close to new price, just rusty. I guess there are places to get used stuff (I would not mind - I am probably not going to wear out a professional tool), but I just have no idea where.


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 15, 2016)

I know this is an odd offer, but I'd be more than happy to pick up a good used portaband and ship it to you (found one this morning for $125 locally). I have no idea what you might have to pay in duty or shipping...hell, I don't even know if your electrical plugs might be a hindrance. Let me know if this is something you'd like to pursue.
-Mark


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## Dan P. (Apr 16, 2016)

Matus, I have an old "Startrite" (1950s? 60s?) band saw that I need to get rid of. It's a tank. Yours for a tenner (negotiable) if you're passing through the north Cotswolds any time soon!
Concerning filing= Leave the guide for later on in the process, and do the greater part of the bevelling with a dreadnought file, or indeed a carpenter's float, freehand. It'll save you a lot of time! But a good file is the key- dreadnought cut is my recommendation for serious stock removal.


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## Matus (Apr 16, 2016)

PolishAvenger said:


> I know this is an odd offer, but I'd be more than happy to pick up a good used portaband and ship it to you (found one this morning for $125 locally). I have no idea what you might have to pay in duty or shipping...hell, I don't even know if your electrical plugs might be a hindrance. Let me know if this is something you'd like to pursue.
> -Mark



Mark, thank you for the offer. I suppose with portaband saw you man those hand-held saws. I will look at those, but I guess that ship one from US to DE would be too expensive because of the size/weight.


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## Matus (Apr 16, 2016)

Dan, that is a really cool offer from you. Now I need to start to plan a serious trip to UK - I could use the occasion and visit your shop and also Blenheimforge and maybe even Will if possible 

The file guide - I have one on order, but I actually do not need it for kitchen knives - only for outdoor knives with hidden tang where bolster is made out of one piece.

Thanks for the tip about the file - I have never heard before of dreadnought cut type. Would you have a recommendation for a good quality file? I am currently using DICK files - the one for beveling is 300mm, double cut hieb 1 (cut 1 - the coarsest one) and is does a decent job - it also cost around 40. But If I could get a file that cuts faster I would get one ASAP. I would be interested in length of 300 mm or longer.


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## Dan P. (Apr 17, 2016)

You'd be most welcome to come visit. Advance notice required, however, as my shop is usually a shameful pigsty!

Dreadnought files have a low tooth per inch count, which along with single cut curved teeth means they are fast and don't clog.
Single cut "millenicut" files are good too, more aggressive, but less smooth, more prone to chatter.
I have only ever come by dreadnoughts and millenicuts second hand, but search google.co.uk and you will get a selection of new ones, some might be ok?


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 18, 2016)

I haven't looked, but if Pferd makes a dreadnought, I'd say you should buy it. They make an exceptional product.
-Mark


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## Matus (Apr 18, 2016)

PolishAvenger said:


> I haven't looked, but if Pferd makes a dreadnought, I'd say you should buy it. They make an exceptional product.
> -Mark



Unfortunately they do not, and nor does DICK. All I found is this 'noname' file:
http://www.teng.co.uk/fildth914-file-dreadnought-files-tanged-hand-un-handled.html (also available via German Amazon branch, just for double the price)


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## Matus (Apr 18, 2016)

To bring a little twist on the matter, I am very close to order this 'baby belt sander":
http://www.amazon.de/dp/B014WEJU5U/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

I know I know, it has 250W, and just 1x30" band, but there are Zirconium belts for it:
http://www.amazon.de/dp/B01DYANACM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Even if it would not be all that fast (it will not) and all that consistent (it will most probably not), it could help me grind some material away even if I would be finishing the blade with files. I mean, 80+20 could be worth a try before I will pay 10 to 20 times as much for the real thing (may be possible in 6 - 12 months from now)


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 18, 2016)

I've seen lots of folks make a really nice product with a 1x30. No harm in trying it out!
-Mark


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## Matus (Apr 18, 2016)

Mark, I just ordered it. I will start a separate thread on it once it arrives.


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## Dan P. (Apr 18, 2016)

The curved tooth fitters file on one side;

http://www.dick.de/en/files-and-rasps/products/milled-tooth-files

Though I'd go for the one below it and affix it to a nice bit of hardwood with machine screws and wing nuts rather than spend on one of those holder/handle thingummies.


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## Matus (Apr 18, 2016)

Dan, thanks! I completely missed those (did not think to check different category on their webpage). Apparently the keywords in German are '_Karosseriefeilenblatt radial_'


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## WingKKF (Apr 18, 2016)

Another possible option for cutting into sheet steel is a reciprocating saw or sawzall. It may not have the precision of a band saw but it does work well with the right type of blade, is versatile to many other tasks like pruning and takes up less space.


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## Matus (Apr 18, 2016)

That is an interesting option. I would have not though that it would be powerful enough. Its design does rule out using some sort of cooling liquid it would seem. I will look into that - the price is definitely OK.


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## WingKKF (Apr 18, 2016)

Oh, a sawzall is definitely powerful enough. You should check out the youtube videos on those things. They use them to cut through just about anything in demolition work. As for cooling, I think you can just use cutting oil (or less messily, paste) on the cut outline of the steel and it should be good to go. Carbide tipped/infused blades also resists heat quite well, I hear.


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## Matus (Apr 18, 2016)

Sounds great - that could be a better solution (less messy) than an angle grinder.


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 19, 2016)

Heat generated during cutting will not have an affect on your steel since you'll be cutting it in the unhardened state. Since sawzall blades really aren't meant for going around corners when cutting steel you're lines would more than likely be straight, in which case you aren't generating any great amount of friction, so, theoretically, no lube should be necessary at all. I don't think I've seen anyone in the profession use a reciprocating saw to do this kind of work, so its effectiveness/economy is doubtful. Just thinking out loud.
-Mark


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## WingKKF (Apr 19, 2016)

Maybe a jigsaw would be an even more appropriate albeit less versatile tool.


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## Dan P. (Apr 19, 2016)

Just a question; Has anybody actually used a sawzall to cut 3mm steel plate??


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2016)

Dan P. said:


> Just a question; Has anybody actually used a sawzall to cut 3mm steel plate??



I have seen a youtube video where they cut an O profile of about 3mm wall thickness, but that was some construction steel, not a knifemaking steel. Still - these tools can have 1000W or more, so power should not be a problem. The question is can one hold the saw steady enough so that the blade does not get caught in the metal under full power as that would be ... awkward.


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## jessf (Apr 19, 2016)

How many watts of power do your arms have with a hacksaw?



Matus said:


> I have seen a youtube video where they cut an O profile of about 3mm wall thickness, but that was some construction steel, not a knifemaking steel. Still - these tools can have 1000W or more, so power should not be a problem. The question is can one hold the saw steady enough so that the blade does not get caught in the metal under full power as that would be ... awkward.


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## Matus (Apr 19, 2016)

jessf said:


> How many watts of power do your arms have with a hacksaw?



I would say, about 1 donkey 

Serously - that probably cannot be compared directly, I am definitely not as fast. I just wanted to say that power should not be a limiting factor with a sawzall.


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## jessf (Apr 19, 2016)

Assuming an average levek of fitness the human body ranges from 50 to 150w. A 1000w reciprocation saw should have more than enough power. They are used generally in demolition or anywhere detail doesn't matter. 



Matus said:


> I would say, about 1 donkey
> 
> Serously - that probably cannot be compared directly, I am definitely not as fast. I just wanted to say that power should not be a limiting factor with a sawzall.


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## Mucho Bocho (Apr 19, 2016)

I consistently pull 190W on the rower over 5:00 min. @ max load. Does that make me super human?


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## PolishAvenger (Apr 19, 2016)

Maybe....but it CERTAINLY makes you a glutton for punishment!
-Mark


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## Matus (May 18, 2016)

Little update - I have just used my brand new 1000W Bosch angle grinder to cut out 8 blanks for 180 mm petty out of 2.2 mm thick O1 steel (in my friend's garage). It took me about 30 minutes. So it saved me some 4+ hours of hack saw fitness  Seems like I have a solution for the near future. Next step get the profile finished with 1x30" belt sander and start to learn how to grind bevels


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