# First Board!



## ColinCB (Dec 29, 2011)

Got the Maple Carolina Slab for Christmas! It arrived at my house over a month ago, but I was barred from using it until the 25th! It's a beautiful board! Very nice pattern (in the wood), heavy, and looks great. 

Unfortunately being the new guy to high quality boards, I didn't season before using. 



Does anybody know where I can get the right USP food safe Mineral Oil? For whatever reason I can only find the typical cleaning oil.


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## chazmtb (Dec 29, 2011)

Available at your local pharmacy. I have CVS brand mineral oil that is used for laxatives.


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## SpikeC (Dec 29, 2011)

I got my last bottle at an Ace hardware store.


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## Vils (Dec 29, 2011)

I use the beeswax/mineral oil mix from Dave Martell.


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## Eamon Burke (Dec 29, 2011)

Dave's board butter stuff is made from beeswax that comes via the local Amish folks there in PA. Pretty freaking sweet if you ask me.


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## DWSmith (Dec 29, 2011)

My mineral oil comes from Texas and the bees wax from the foothills of North Carolina. Mineral oilm is available in most any drug store in the laxitive section and at many grocery stores that have a pharmacy. The label will read USP or Laxitive. Don't worry about getting the wrong stuff, it is usually colored red and sold as either transmision fluid or hydraulic oil.


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## ColinCB (Dec 30, 2011)

Thanks for all the help. 

Somehow I completely forgot that it is used as a laxative! I was at the pharmacy today, dang!


Dave, I've been reading a lot about seasoning from here and on your FAQ. Am I okay just using mineral oil for now? Also, I looked in the basement for it and we had it, but it was not USP and it was clear!


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## DWSmith (Dec 30, 2011)

As long as the label reads "USP" or "Laxitive" you will be okay. But, if it has been left in the basement for a period of time, I would obtain a fresh bottle from a local drug or grocery store.


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## ColinCB (Dec 30, 2011)

The BoardSMITH said:


> As long as the label reads "USP" or "Laxitive" you will be okay. But, if it has been left in the basement for a period of time, I would obtain a fresh bottle from a local drug or grocery store.



Whoops, I meant, just using mineral oil and not the oil and butter.


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## Vils (Jan 5, 2012)

I got my second board today:bliss: A 12x18" mahogny that I intends to use for proteins mainly. My first board (16x22) is a tad too cumbersome to rinse of in the sink so the new board will be a perfect complement.


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## TB_London (Jan 5, 2012)

I don't have a board smith (yet) but my standard procedure for new wood boards is to keep applying mineral oil until it stops soaking in, then use a homemade beeswax and mineral oil mix for maintenance. If you wax early on it can form a layer on the surface stopping the oil from seeping in. I'd listen to what the board smith himself says for his products though, oh and congrats on the new board


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## ColinCB (Jan 9, 2012)

Any idea how much oil I'll need? I've been oiling it 3-4 times a week for 2 weeks and it's still not saturated! Am I missing something here?


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## zitangy (Jan 9, 2012)

ColinCB said:


> Any idea how much oil I'll need? I've been oiling it 3-4 times a week for 2 weeks and it's still not saturated! Am I missing something here?



Its not so much the number of times that yu apply but how much you apply each time..... Flooding or pools of oil tells you that it can't absorb any more. IF it is really dry.. it will be like quick sand.. oil disappears. That is your gauge...

a) I would literally squirt or pour mineral oil and spread it over with bare hands. IF the board is thirsty.. it will literally soak it up. What you want ot see is that the surface layer IS NOT flooded, then it can consume more! Even if it is flooded.. it will only be for a few minutes.. ON new boards I wld keep on applying after every 20 min or so adn leave alone. WHEn it is still dry, I will add more. TEH time the board floods easily.. it has enough! DO this to both sides..

b) there after, I would wld apply bees wax and mineral oil as it leaves a layer of protection (wax) BEes wax with mineral oil is not penetrative enough.



Have fun..

rgds

DL


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## ColinCB (Jan 9, 2012)

I was doing multiple applications as I heard that even with a thick board, they can still possibly warp. 

At this point, it's definitely still dry. Guess it's back to the board! Maybe this time with a sponge.


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## DWSmith (Jan 9, 2012)

Cutting boards need only enough oil to coat their surfaces, they do not need to be completely saturated from top to bottom. When the area most used starts looking lighter in color than the surrounding area, it is then time to oil. On occasion, oil the bottom and sides as well to keep the oil layer even in the wood. 

Ask Ryan, you can oil a board to much. When the temperature rises or the board comes into direct contact with sunlight, the oil will seep to the surface and look like it is sweating. Over a period of years you might be able to saturate the board completely but not in two or three weeks. 

The application of oil is intended to be a moisture barrier of sorts. You can't stop all the moisture from being absorbed but you can slow it down somewhat. Warping comes from a prolonged exposure to water in a specific spot or area. The water swells the wood fibers and starts the warping. The best defense against warping is to keep the board dry. The second best defense is to oil. 

Enjoy using the board.


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## El Pescador (Jan 9, 2012)

Once an hour for a day, once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year...


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## ColinCB (Jan 11, 2012)

Thanks a lot for all of the information! It's definitely awesome to use!


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## Mr. Clean (Jan 28, 2012)

Do Dave's board come with a spot of oil by chance?


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## ColinCB (Jan 28, 2012)

I believe Dave oils them just a bit before they ship out, but other than that, you need to go out and buy the oil.


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## WildBoar (Jan 28, 2012)

ColinCB said:


> I believe Dave oils them just a bit before they ship out, but other than that, you need to go out and buy the oil.


x2. And you can by board wax from him, but I don't believe he sells the straight-up mineral oil.


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## ColinCB (Jan 28, 2012)

Mineral oil is easy to source at any decent pharmacy. I found mine in the laxative section. Make sure it's the food safe/USP version though.


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## Johnny.B.Good (Jan 28, 2012)

ColinCB said:


> Mineral oil is easy to source at any decent pharmacy. I found mine in the laxative section. Make sure it's the food safe/USP version though.



Or hardware store.


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## ejd53 (Jan 29, 2012)

I just get mine at Walgreens. I also use Dave's board butter.


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## echerub (Jan 29, 2012)

If you've got an Ikea nearby, their price for mineral oil is pretty good. Otherwise I've gotten good deals from HomeSense, but I don't know if these guys exist in the United States.


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## Chef Niloc (Jan 29, 2012)

A little off subject (but not realy), but what do you think about the Jojoba oil? It's thin and absorbs easily, does not go rancid, and is a liquid wax, not a true oil. Has great moisturizing properties, food safe. Any thoughts?


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## nhatduongchi (Dec 30, 2013)

What is the ratio of beewax and mineral oil to use for best result? Thanks


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## bahamaroot (Dec 30, 2013)

I used 1oz of beeswax and 8oz of mineral oil to make my wax and it came out pretty good.


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## nhatduongchi (Dec 31, 2013)

Thanks! I'll try that.


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## ed_k (Dec 31, 2013)

How about walnut oil? That should dry properly (unlike vegetable olis which never really dry). You could consider food grade flax/linseed oil too, which I believe also drys properly (but slowly). I've been using walnut oil on wooden items recently and I like it.


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## DWSmith (Jan 1, 2014)

Personally, I wouldn't use flax seed oil. It is just one step away from paint and needs about 30 days to properly dry and outgas. Even after 30 or more days, the paint smell will linger. Rather then use flax seed oil I would use a butcher block oil made primarily for cutting boards. That still requires several days to dry thoroughly and outgas enough to make it usable. Either are considered film finishes and stay on the surface of the wood primarily and may flake off during use. 

I haven't used walnut oil but I know a lot of people do. Since it is an organic material, I will not recommend it as a substitute for mineral oil and since it is made from nuts, it might lead to a reaction in those people with nut allergies. I know from experience it only takes a miniscule amount of nut oil to start an allergic reaction.


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## Pensacola Tiger (Jan 1, 2014)

nhatduongchi said:


> What is the ratio of beewax and mineral oil to use for best result? Thanks



I find a 4 to 1 ratio by weight of oil to wax is best. 

Rick


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## Mucho Bocho (Jan 1, 2014)

Also wash the board with cold water and no detergents. If cutting meat, fish, bloody products, wash with warm water and lightly scrub surface with a sink brush. You will eventually wash off the protective surface oil but its designed to be washed off. Like ablative bottom paint on a boat. Also, for best absorption, apply oil when the board is dry not after use.


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## nhatduongchi (Jan 5, 2014)

I made the oil with 4 to 1 ratio and used on my board and wooden utensils and I like it a lot. Thank you all


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## Vils (Feb 10, 2014)

I´ve mixed 100 gram of bees wax with 1 litre of mineral oil, works as good on knife handles, cutting boards and tired feets


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## charles222 (Feb 10, 2014)

This is some interesting reading.


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