# Finishing grit when sanding blades



## Wagnum (Mar 10, 2022)

I just thinned and refinished my Moritaka after a year or two of procrastination. I stopped at 180 grit but that was mainly because my shoulder started to hurt. It looks fine but is a little wonky (the finish and the left side bevel) as I wasn't planning on stopping at 180 but depending on how the patina goes I might just leave it. Is there a benefit to a low grit finish or should I be taking it to a higher grit? Any advice or info on the benefits and downfalls of different grit finishes is appreciated

Some photos


----------



## tostadas (Mar 10, 2022)

I finish at 800 for sandpaper. The higher you go, the less "drag" you experience when cutting stuff. But also as you go higher, you increase stiction. I find 800 to be the perfect balance if I want a brushed style finish.


----------



## M1k3 (Mar 10, 2022)

I finish in the 400-800 grit range. I like to take it a step higher than I'm going to finish though. So say 120 -> 240 -> 320 -> 400 -> 600 -> 400 (or 800 -> 1k -> 800).


----------



## ethompson (Mar 10, 2022)

I too think the 600ish grit range is the sweet spot for a hand sanded finish. Also agree on taking the finish past the intended grit then coming back to make light one directional passes with the finish grit. I find I get a much more even and better looking finish that way.


----------



## Wagnum (Mar 10, 2022)

ethompson said:


> I too think the 600ish grit range is the sweet spot for a hand sanded finish. Also agree on taking the finish past the intended grit then coming back to make light one directional passes with the finish grit. I find I get a much more even and better looking finish that way.





M1k3 said:


> I finish in the 400-800 grit range. I like to take it a step higher than I'm going to finish though. So say 120 -> 240 -> 320 -> 400 -> 600 -> 400 (or 800 -> 1k -> 800).



I'm re starting the finishing now. Thanks for the advice. Probably going up to 600 and will definitely go up to 800 then back


----------



## M1k3 (Mar 10, 2022)

Looking forward to seeing the results.


----------



## captaincaed (Mar 10, 2022)

You can also go a hair coarse (220-400) then Scotch Brite. Helps decrease both drag and stiction if it's done right. 

Also insert obligatory "watch Nick Wheeler" comment here


----------



## Wagnum (Mar 10, 2022)

captaincaed said:


> You can also go a hair coarse (220-400) then Scotch Brite. Helps decrease both drag and stiction if it's done right.
> 
> Also insert obligatory "watch Nick Wheeler" comment here


I like the sound of that I'll look it up. I've seen a couple of Nicks vids, definitely knows what he's talking about. What I'm worried about is the cladding being too reactive at a low grit finish but definitely going to try it out


----------



## RDalman (Mar 11, 2022)

Yes with some kind of light buffing (like scotchbrite mentioned or autosol or such paste) a 4-600 finish should work well without causing braking. Maybe even 180 grit with the right buffing might give some food release pros. But maybe difficult to be happy with aesthetically.


----------



## Wagnum (Mar 11, 2022)

RDalman said:


> Yes with some kind of light buffing (like scotchbrite mentioned or autosol or such paste) a 4-600 finish should work well without causing braking. Maybe even 180 grit with the right buffing might give some food release pros. But maybe difficult to be happy with aesthetically.



I'm not super worried about it looking super refined I more concerned with being able to re-finish easy. For that reason I went to 220 and then Scotch Brite. I'm assuming the Scotch Brite sold for kitchens is not what y'all mean but it's what I had (a green one and light blue one that says "non-scratch") so I used it. It seemed to smooth things out a bit. I did rub some natural stone slurry to smooth the transition between the finish on the bevel and the rest of the knife. I'll see how I feel one it starts to get some patina


----------



## RDalman (Mar 11, 2022)

Wagnum said:


> I'm not super worried about it looking super refined I more concerned with being able to re-finish easy. For that reason I went to 220 and then Scotch Brite. I'm assuming the Scotch Brite sold for kitchens is not what y'all mean but it's what I had (a green one and light blue one that says "non-scratch") so I used it. It seemed to smooth things out a bit. I did rub some natural stone slurry to smooth the transition between the finish on the bevel and the rest of the knife. I'll see how I feel one it starts to get some patina


Nice that should work


----------



## Wagnum (Mar 11, 2022)

RDalman said:


> Nice that should work


Thanks for the input, it's much appreciated


----------



## captaincaed (Mar 11, 2022)

I mostly hear of belts, I suspect with a fine abrasive. Blue pads without abrasive can be useful to deburr after sharpening (just strop edge trailing)


https://www.grainger.com/category/abrasives/sanding-belts-and-kits/sanding-belts?brandName=SCOTCH-BRITE&filters=brandName


----------

