# Anodizing a blade? Anyone try it?



## pennman

Has anyone tried anodizing a chef knife? What steel was used? What formulation and procedure? Source of materials? Results? Pictures?


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## Jmadams13

I thought anodizing wa only used on aluminum. I surely hope you done have an aluminum knife (not even sure they exist)


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## EdipisReks

anodizing is for metals that produce a durable self-limiting oxidized layer, like aluminum or titanium. steel is not one of those metals.


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## Miles

The nearest thing I can think of is Parkerizing. I have a couple old military blades that have a Parkerized finish. I'm not sure what the advantage or benefit would be, though. I'm definitely not keen on the idea of using a phosphate finish on a kitchen blade.


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## TB_London

You might be able to electroplate it with a different metal, you can get home kits for gold etc plating. Not sure it's hold up as only a few microns thick though


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## Miles

True. But I revisit my initial question: To what end? What's the benefit?


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## Mike9

Here is your answer:

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=can%20steel%20be%20anodized&source=web&cd=3&sqi=2&ved=0CEEQFjAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.pioneermetal.com%2Fresource%2Fpdf%2F1295915409faq.pdf&ei=s0VkUdfyCITn0QH744AY&usg=AFQjCNGaNHQNEvJSwS5gXFM0qy72ieOxfA&bvm=bv.44990110,d.dmQ&cad=rja


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## Miles

I understand the reasons why someone might want an anodized surface on a great many things, it's just that kitchen knives aren't one of those things that I'd ever think of as needing that kind of treatment. LOL I guess I'm curious about the OP's interest.


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## Jim

For rust resistance and reduction in odor and taste transfer carbon steel can take "blueing" very well. The patina we all enjoy is chemically the reaction to the various salts in the items we cut. Blueing is a souped up version of that. 

I blued a cheap cleaver that I infrequently use to keep it from rusting.


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## Jmadams13

Interesting. Mind sharing the process?


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## Jim

Jmadams13 said:


> Interesting. Mind sharing the process?


 Degrease and swab on Brownells blueing solution, 4xxxx steel wool and repeat. Not very challenging but effective..


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## Jmadams13

Thanks. Just placed my order


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## TB_London

I was of the understanding bluing was pretty far from food safe, happy to be wrong but I'd properly check before using it


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## Jim

TB_London said:


> I was of the understanding bluing was pretty far from food safe, happy to be wrong but I'd properly check before using it


Indeed it is, but the blueing solution is removed before you use the knife, you only leave the reaction behind.


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## chinacats

Jim said:


> Indeed it is, but the blueing solution is removed before you use the knife, you only leave the reaction behind.



How's it look? Pics?

Cheers


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## mpukas

We had a thread on FF a couple of years ago about bluing a knife. I had found a small company that makes a cold bluing product (can't recall if it's Brownell's that Jim used) and inquired about it. One member bought some and tried it. I think he didn't have great results. The bluing took, but didn't protect the blade, and possible wore off.


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## codhll

This is my first post. I created this account here to revive this thread as I cannot find any information on the web on how to successfully anodized knife blades to protect the steel with a patina.

I have anodized 1095 carbon steel with vinegar and a 12Vdc 0.5A power supply. The power supply was a radio shack wall adapter. Any wall adapter of suitable voltage and Amperage will work, as long as the wall adapter produces DC voltage. To determine which lead of the power supply to use, dissolve a spoon full of baking soda into a cup of water and place both wires of the powersupply in the solution. The wire that is producing the most bubbles is producing hydrogen gas. This is the Cathode. The wire producing the oxygen gas is your anode and that is the wire the knife blade is attached to. I used alligator clips to attach the de-greased knife blade to the anode and I used 00Steel wool as the cathode. In seconds I could see the knife blade begin to blacken. I anodized the blade for roughly 10 minutes or so.

The amperage and voltage of the power supply determine the thickness and characteristics of the oxide coating on your knife blade. There is a voltage to produce the reaction on the knife blade; however an over-voltage is required to actually get the reaction to occur. To much over-voltage can destabilize the oxide coating resulting in a flaky coating. To much Amperage ad the reaction occurs rapidly and unevenly. I found 12Vdc and 0.5A to work well; however, I urge you to try your own experiments and report back. 

Lastly, the concentration of vinegar should be between 5 and 25 percent by mass for maximum electric conductivity.

Attached is a photo of a ForgeCraft butcher knife and an Old Hickory Skinner anodized following the procedure outline above.




[/IMG]


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## codhll

Do not anodize the knife blade in Sodium Chloride solution unless you want to make bleach!!!

I would have edited the post above; however, my edit time limit is up.


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## ecchef

Submerge it simmering "Iron Out". Same results without the power supply and potentially combustible gasses.


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## codhll

ecchef, i'm not familiaer with the product iron out. Is this the MSDS for your product? http://www.summitbrands.com/summit/downloads/msds/usa/MSDS%20Super%20Iron%20Out.pdf


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## EdipisReks

codhll said:


> This is my first post. I created this account here to revive this thread as I cannot find any information on the web on how to successfully anodized knife blades to protect the steel with a patina.
> 
> I have anodized 1095 carbon steel with vinegar and a 12Vdc 0.5A power supply. The power supply was a radio shack wall adapter. Any wall adapter of suitable voltage and Amperage will work, as long as the wall adapter produces DC voltage. To determine which lead of the power supply to use, dissolve a spoon full of baking soda into a cup of water and place both wires of the powersupply in the solution. The wire that is producing the most bubbles is producing hydrogen gas. This is the Cathode. The wire producing the oxygen gas is your anode and that is the wire the knife blade is attached to. I used alligator clips to attach the de-greased knife blade to the anode and I used 00Steel wool as the cathode. In seconds I could see the knife blade begin to blacken. I anodized the blade for roughly 10 minutes or so.
> 
> The amperage and voltage of the power supply determine the thickness and characteristics of the oxide coating on your knife blade. There is a voltage to produce the reaction on the knife blade; however an over-voltage is required to actually get the reaction to occur. To much over-voltage can destabilize the oxide coating resulting in a flaky coating. To much Amperage ad the reaction occurs rapidly and unevenly. I found 12Vdc and 0.5A to work well; however, I urge you to try your own experiments and report back.
> 
> Lastly, the concentration of vinegar should be between 5 and 25 percent by mass for maximum electric conductivity.
> 
> Attached is a photo of a ForgeCraft butcher knife and an Old Hickory Skinner anodized following the procedure outline above.
> 
> 
> 
> [/IMG]



Remember to keep the magnetite layer oiled, or you'll find yourself with plain ol' rust. This is why it's not really anodization in the sense commonly used with aluminum or titanium.


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