# Push cutting VS rocking style



## HappyamateurDK (Feb 7, 2020)

Hallo all.

Push cutting VS rocking style, edge wear and edge stress. What is best for the knife?

I recently bought a 180 mm santoku knive. and has begun practicing my push/pull cut technique. I can't help thinking the clacking sound when the knife hits the board sounds terribly, and almost like hurting the knife. 

Is push cutting actually harder on a blade then the rocking style cutting I have learnt on European chefknifes ? 

Thanks, and have a great weekend


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## veryconfused (Feb 7, 2020)

I was told that rock chopping isn't good for knives with harder steels because the lateral motion could stress the blade and cause it to chip. I was also told it may be a bigger problem on very thin knives and that it can warp (especially) them. No idea if that's correct or not though. I'll defer to the pros here.


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## McMan (Feb 7, 2020)

HappyamateurDK said:


> Hallo all.
> 
> Push cutting VS rocking style, edge wear and edge stress. What is best for the knife?
> 
> ...


Flip the question on its head: Which cutting style is better for the product? 

Because Japanese knives are generally thinner than Euro knives, they can (generally) make more precise/refined cuts. Push cutting (generally) gives more control.
You'll see I said 'generally' a lot--these are less about hard and fast rules and more about how a user can get the most out of their techniques, and there are many different techniques. More than one way to skin a cat.

You should hear a thud, thud or a tap, tap when hitting the cutting board. If you hear a tink, tink or a loud scraping sound, this is because you are moving the knife laterally (aka "walking" the knife). The edges on Japanese knives are not well suited to this because of thinness/hardness. Often walking the knife is a result of rocking. Push cutting is a way to avoid putting lateral stress on the blade (walking the knife). One last point, rocking keeps the tip pegged to the board. This can wear that part of the knife, from the constant back and forth on the board.


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## Benuser (Feb 8, 2020)

https://cheftalk.com/threads/guillotine-and-glide-classic-french-knife-action.62068/


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## Nagakin (Feb 8, 2020)

HappyamateurDK said:


> Hallo all.
> 
> Push cutting VS rocking style, edge wear and edge stress. What is best for the knife?
> 
> ...


I push and chop commercially with knives up to 65 hrc without issue, but I can admit I was a bit shy at first. I'd even inspect my blade for chips between every task. After learning what your tools can handle though there are days you actually look forward to julienning 100 lbs of onions (but you still mostly want to die...I'm the saute cook tf are all the prep guys??).

The only Japanese knives I've ever had that were "chippy" were a Miyabi and Enso before an initial sharpening, since production models tend to do that ootb. I've since sold them to coworkers who rock chop exclusively and they would only damage the edge because of the steep angle I sharpened them at. Once I lowered the angle for them all issues went away.

There is a best way in this case, but that doesn't mean it's the best way for everyone. You can adjust your tools to suit your style if you find out rocking is just what you enjoy.


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## SeattleBen (Feb 8, 2020)

What's your cutting board like as well as force through product?


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## Kristoffer (Feb 8, 2020)

SeattleBen said:


> What's your cutting board like as well as force through product?



I was thinking the same thing; my first j-knife was a super thin behind the edge Aogami Super Nakiri that I used on a hard Akacia end grain board. It made a horrible chirping sound, even with the most precise push cuts


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## HappyamateurDK (Feb 8, 2020)

SeattleBen said:


> What's your cutting board like as well as force through product?



Mostly an edge grain European Oak board. But occasionally a edge grain walnut and rarely a end grain Teak


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## Paraffin (Feb 9, 2020)

I learned to avoid rock-chopping when I got back into Japanese knives, to avoid chipping. I don't scrape the blade sideways against the board at a 90 degree angle either. For scraping product together I use the wide straight front edge of a nakiri, or if it's a smaller knife like a long petty I'll flip the blade over and use the back of the knife.

Technique is based on what the food "wants" for the cut. I push cut harder veg like potatoes or carrots, or if it's something big like a cabbage. With anything smaller or softer it's a draw cut for veg, especially very precise small draw cuts for garnish, using the curved tip of a nakiri. 

I use one technique that I suppose isn't all that great for edge sharpness retention -- flicking my hand under the handle of a nakiri with a pinch grip for a rapid vertical chopping of peeled and sliced garlic into small bits. No rocking, just very fast straight-down chop chop. I'm barely "kissing" the board when I do that, sometimes not even touching the board. It's a soft Hinoki board, easier on the blade edge than hardwood. Anyway, I don't notice significantly greater wear on my Blue #1 nakiri with that technique. The curved tip of the nakiri never touches the board when I do that, so it always stays super sharp for precision draw cuts.


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