# Why isn’t bamboo or plastic cutting boards ideal for hard knives?



## Goorackerelite (Sep 1, 2020)

Excuse the seemingly newb question but I have found that my Japanese knives don’t hold their edge as well in these surfaces as the softer steels. And I want to know.... why? It’s infuriating to take my freshly sharpened White number 2 knife and not be able to slice through tomato skin after a few minutes on my friends bamboo board while their crappy Hampton forge knife that I finished at 300 grit holds an edge seemingly forever on bamboo and plastic boards.


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## M1k3 (Sep 1, 2020)

2 things for your example. Bamboo is a hard grass with silica (sand) in it. The glue to hold it together is usually pretty hard also. 

White steel is a simple carbon steel. Low wear resistance.

The steel in the other knife is pretty wear resistant. And low grit edges are better at slicing.


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## D J (Sep 2, 2020)

For years I've been using plastic place mat's as cutting boards they're 30mm×40mm and looks only about 1mm thick. I dread cutting on them, but. After buying a bamboo cutting board I put it away after the first use and started using the plastic ones again. I found it too hard. Got frustrated yesterday preparing dinner and pulled the trigger on a synthetic rubber cutting board. I've heard they are a little forgiving. Don't think they are better than a soft wooden board like hinoki or some of the others, I'm hoping it will be easier maintenance


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## dorianwidling (Sep 2, 2020)

I found this a while back...it's a study that was done on the effects of various chopping boards on edge longevity. I'm not a scientist or an engineer so I can't speak to the accuracy of the study but the findings were pretty interesting. http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf


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## kayman67 (Sep 2, 2020)

I think I remember this. But after seeing what people do and experience, I believe now that the test is just too perfect and too simple.


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## Michi (Sep 2, 2020)

I used an Ikea edge-grain bamboo cutting board for a while. It's a bargain; quite large and only costs about $20. But it's absolute murder on knife edges. Glass or stone would be worse, no doubt, but probably by not all that much. It only took me a few weeks before I gave up on that board.

Use something made of softer wood and you'll be fine. Whether that's end grain or edge grain probably doesn't matter all that much—I suspect that using a soft-ish wood is more important than the grain orientation.

White #2 doesn't have great edge retention, no matter what you cut on. That's the price you pay for the phenomenal sharpness you can get from white #2, and the ease of bringing it back to being sharp again once it dulls.

If you are worried about edge retention, try blue #2, or Aogami Super, or SG-2, SLD, ZDP-189, or HAP-40. Those won't get quite as sharp, but will stay sharp a lot longer.

Something like a Wüsthof will handle a bamboo cutting board much better than most Japanese knives. The advantage of that steel is that it can take a lot of abuse, and it's easy to bring it back to really sharp over and over with just a honing rod. A Wüsthof won't get as sharp as a good Japanese knife, but it'll be more than adequately sharp for almost any use—for a long time and with little effort.


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## Hz_zzzzzz (Sep 3, 2020)

A Wusthof is usually pretty thick behind the edge and the edge angle is usually 20+ degree per side. If you thin a Wusthof to be as thin behind the edge as a Japanese knife and put a 10 degree edge on it, and then sharpen it to a higher grit like you do to a white 2 steel knife, it won't show any edge retention because the edge would either roll or microchip after a few contacts with the bamboo board.

Btw, I get best edge life on Hasegawa Soft Rubber board, and the micro chipping issue on some knives has been mostly eliminated since I switched to Hasegawa from a TheBoardSmith end grain maple cutting board.


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## Runner_up (Sep 3, 2020)

Hz_zzzzzz said:


> Btw, I get best edge life on Hasegawa Soft Rubber board, and the micro chipping issue on some knives has been mostly eliminated since I switched to Hasegawa from a TheBoardSmith end grain maple cutting board.



This. I think overall I still prefer the feel of my walnut end grain, but there's no doubt about it - the Hasegawa boards are very gentle on edges and are great boards to use.


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## Desert Rat (Sep 3, 2020)

dorianwidling said:


> I found this a while back...it's a study that was done on the effects of various chopping boards on edge longevity. I'm not a scientist or an engineer so I can't speak to the accuracy of the study but the findings were pretty interesting. http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf


When a knife gets sharper through use on a cutting board I have to think that the test was flawed from the start.


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## MarcelNL (Sep 3, 2020)

Hz_zzzzzz said:


> A Wusthof is usually pretty thick behind the edge and the edge angle is usually 20+ degree per side. If you thin a Wusthof to be as thin behind the edge as a Japanese knife and put a 10 degree edge on it, and then sharpen it to a higher grit like you do to a white 2 steel knife, it won't show any edge retention because the edge would either roll or microchip after a few contacts with the bamboo board.
> 
> Btw, I get best edge life on Hasegawa Soft Rubber board, and the micro chipping issue on some knives has been mostly eliminated since I switched to Hasegawa from a TheBoardSmith end grain maple cutting board.



I'm thinking to make an end grain board but am torn between that and the Hasegawa, does the benefit apply cutting everything one uses in the home kitchen or is that mainy when cutting soft tissue (fish and meat)?


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## tostadas (Sep 3, 2020)

I don't have any issue with plastic. I have end grain wood, edge grain wood, plastic, and synthetic rubber boards that I use regularly. 

I threw away my bamboo which I had been unknowingly using for years. There is a very noticeable degradation of the edge when I used bamboo.


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## M1k3 (Sep 3, 2020)

Don't overlook Asahi boards. The thicker ones are in the 'goldilocks' zone, IMO. Soft enough to be gentle on the edge, while not being overly grabby, allowing the knife to glide almost like poly boards. Doesn't really stain except for stuff like beets. A little bleach usually cleans it up though.

They definitely don't like bread knives though.


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## LostHighway (Sep 3, 2020)

I've used most of the usual suspects over the years (plastic, edge grain maple, Epicurean, Hinoki, Hi-Soft, end grain cherry, and I recently acquired a brown PE Hasagawa). I skipped over bamboo because it is notorious for dulling tools whether you're cutting culms in the field or working with it in a woodshop. My take is that they all have their pros and cons but that for edge longevity Hi-Soft and Hasegawa are hard to beat. That may be true of the Asahi and Sani-Tuff boards as well but I haven't used those. I used to be able to find some plastic boards that were on the softer side, you could get them to yield to a fingernail edge with moderate pressure, but I haven't found any that soft for years. I still keep a couple plastic boards around but only for abusive uses like serrated knives. For good Japanese knives I think you pick your trade offs among Hasegawa, Hi-Soft and equivalents, Hinoki or Aomari Hibari, and not too hard end grain (I prefer cherry). Plastic and Epicurean/San Jamar Tuff-Cut are, IMO, well below any of these but tolerable for limited uses. Bamboo, acrylic, glass, metal, and stone boards I would avoid like the plague.


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## jacko9 (Sep 3, 2020)

I have been experimenting with several boards; I made a 10" x 14" maple end grain board which is fine but a little too small for me, a 18" x 26" large edge grain maple board which is pretty heavy, a bamboo board which is pretty hard on edgers, a plastic board which I'm about to throw away, a 14" x 17" Hasegawa Wood Core Soft Rubber board which slows knife marks when cutting veggies (I'll use this for fish and raw protein in the future) and I finally just ordered in in stock 12" x 23" Hasegawa Wood Core PE Rubber board which should be a little harder. Bottom line I most likely will get down to the large board and both Hasegawa boards.


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## MarcelNL (Sep 3, 2020)

Asahi is on the shortlist, but thanks helping me remember...prob is none of them seem readily available in the EU at the moment...


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## McMan (Sep 3, 2020)

Desert Rat said:


> When a knife gets sharper through use on a cutting board I have to think that the test was flawed from the start.


Or the sharpening was flawed from the start?


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## McMan (Sep 3, 2020)

I wish that the synthetic rubber boards could go in the dw...


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## Dave Martell (Sep 3, 2020)

dorianwidling said:


> I found this a while back...it's a study that was done on the effects of various chopping boards on edge longevity. I'm not a scientist or an engineer so I can't speak to the accuracy of the study but the findings were pretty interesting. http://knifegrinders.com.au/SET/Chopping_Boards.pdf



What a cool test they did. I do wish that they had used a knife with some edge retention though, I'm 100% sure the results would be different. 

Thanks for sharing this!


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## Dave Martell (Sep 3, 2020)

I'll tell you about an unintended test between two Boos blocks and two BoardSMITH blocks.

The owner of the Carter International Damascus set (yes set!) was getting crazy edge chipping from his new knives. The problem persisted through about a year's time. I was involved in resharpening the damage out and eventually we contacted Murray who was perplexed by the situation. He asked for the knives back for evaluation and regrinding and could find no issues after looking them over. Upon return the knives began to chip again.

On an impromptu move the user bought two new BoardSMITH boards just to try out and you know what happened don't you? Yeah, the edge chipping stopped immediately!!!

Both types were maple end grain.

Why did the Boos chip out the knives and the BoardSMITH did not? You tell me!


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## Barmoley (Sep 3, 2020)

Brown PE Hasagawa and Hinoki are the best for edges. Hinoki stains and has other issues, but is very light. Brown PE Hasagawa is excellent and can go into the dishwasher if you have one large enough.


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## MarcelNL (Sep 3, 2020)

McMan said:


> I wish that the synthetic rubber boards could go in the dw...





Dave Martell said:


> I'll tell you about an unintended test between two Boos blocks and two BoardSMITH blocks.
> 
> The owner of the Carter International Damascus set (yes set!) was getting crazy edge chipping from his new knives. The problem persisted through about a year's time. I was involved in resharpening the damage out and eventually we contacted Murray who was perplexed by the situation. He asked for the knives back for evaluation and regrinding and could find no issues after looking them over. Upon return the knives began to chip again.
> 
> ...



glued with epoxy vs bone glue, rabbit skin glue, or something similar?


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## Barmoley (Sep 3, 2020)

Dave Martell said:


> I'll tell you about an unintended test between two Boos blocks and two BoardSMITH blocks.
> 
> The owner of the Carter International Damascus set (yes set!) was getting crazy edge chipping from his new knives. The problem persisted through about a year's time. I was involved in resharpening the damage out and eventually we contacted Murray who was perplexed by the situation. He asked for the knives back for evaluation and regrinding and could find no issues after looking them over. Upon return the knives began to chip again.
> 
> ...


Could the glue be the issue? is it possible for glue to be hard enough. Epoxy can be depending on the filler, but you'd think glue used for cutting boards is pretty soft.


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## Dave Martell (Sep 3, 2020)

MarcelNL said:


> glued with epoxy vs bone glue, rabbit skin glue, or something similar?





Barmoley said:


> Could the glue be the issue? is it possible for glue to be hard enough. Epoxy can be depending on the filler, but you'd think glue used for cutting boards is pretty soft.




I recall David using Titebond II(?)

I always figured it had something to do with the binding agents and the fact that Boos uses smaller pieces of wood blocks meaning more glue.


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## MarcelNL (Sep 3, 2020)

Titebond does not seem to be anything THAT special, it's just another PVA wood glue.


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## juice (Sep 3, 2020)

MarcelNL said:


> Titebond does not seem to be anything THAT special, it's just another PVA wood glue.


It is food safe, though.


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## jacko9 (Sep 3, 2020)

Barmoley said:


> Brown PE Hasagawa and Hinoki are the best for edges. Hinoki stains and has other issues, but is very light. Brown PE Hasagawa is excellent and can go into the dishwasher if you have one large enough.


Just ordered my Hasegawa Brown PE yesterday!


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## MarcelNL (Sep 4, 2020)

juice said:


> It is food safe, though.


that to me is a nice to have, how much of your cutting board is glue and how much of the cutting board ends up being eaten? Mean, as long as you don;t make the board out of U235 or something similar 

Smaller versus larger blocks may mean something, ther is just more glue usinh smaller blocks; if there is more wood surface arrea impregnated with glue it probably makes the board harder.


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## juice (Sep 4, 2020)

MarcelNL said:


> that to me is a nice to have, how much of your cutting board is glue and how much of the cutting board ends up being eaten?


It's no harder to use, so why not use it? Also, if you're making/repairing boards for others, it's surely a non-negotiable.


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## MarcelNL (Sep 4, 2020)

True, and likely non negotiable when in the food trade


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## Desert Rat (Sep 4, 2020)

Dave Martell said:


> I'll tell you about an unintended test between two Boos blocks and two BoardSMITH blocks.
> 
> The owner of the Carter International Damascus set (yes set!) was getting crazy edge chipping from his new knives. The problem persisted through about a year's time. I was involved in resharpening the damage out and eventually we contacted Murray who was perplexed by the situation. He asked for the knives back for evaluation and regrinding and could find no issues after looking them over. Upon return the knives began to chip again.
> 
> ...


Very odd. I have been useing a 24 x 24 x 6 end grain maple Boos butcher block for better than a decade with no issues at all. It was old and abused when I found it but it will easily out live me.


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## MarcelNL (Sep 4, 2020)

Desert Rat said:


> Very odd. I have been useing a 24 x 24 x 6 end grain maple Boos butcher block for better than a decade with no issues at all. It was old and abused when I found it but it will easily out live me.



why odd, the block was not falling apart, the knives were. Porblem might be a combination of knive hardness and thickness vs how the block behaves/was made.


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## adam92 (Sep 5, 2020)

LostHighway said:


> I've used most of the usual suspects over the years (plastic, edge grain maple, Epicurean, Hinoki, Hi-Soft, end grain cherry, and I recently acquired a brown PE Hasagawa). I skipped over bamboo because it is notorious for dulling tools whether you're cutting culms in the field or working with it in a woodshop. My take is that they all have their pros and cons but that for edge longevity Hi-Soft and Hasegawa are hard to beat. That may be true of the Asahi and Sani-Tuff boards as well but I haven't used those. I used to be able to find some plastic boards that were on the softer side, you could get them to yield to a fingernail edge with moderate pressure, but I haven't found any that soft for years. I still keep a couple plastic boards around but only for abusive uses like serrated knives. For good Japanese knives I think you pick your trade offs among Hasegawa, Hi-Soft and equivalents, Hinoki or Aomari Hibari, and not too hard end grain (I prefer cherry). Plastic and Epicurean/San Jamar Tuff-Cut are, IMO, well below any of these but tolerable for limited uses. Bamboo, acrylic, glass, metal, and stone boards I would avoid like the plague.


What do you think pros & cons between hasegawa & hi-soft? 

I haved experience with asahi & hi-soft, i heard hasegawa really good, been thinking to getting one..


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## adam92 (Sep 5, 2020)

jacko9 said:


> I have been experimenting with several boards; I made a 10" x 14" maple end grain board which is fine but a little too small for me, a 18" x 26" large edge grain maple board which is pretty heavy, a bamboo board which is pretty hard on edgers, a plastic board which I'm about to throw away, a 14" x 17" Hasegawa Wood Core Soft Rubber board which slows knife marks when cutting veggies (I'll use this for fish and raw protein in the future) and I finally just ordered in in stock 12" x 23" Hasegawa Wood Core PE Rubber board which should be a little harder. Bottom line I most likely will get down to the large board and both Hasegawa boards.


Where did you get the hasegawa cutting board?


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## jacko9 (Sep 5, 2020)

adam92 said:


> Where did you get the hasegawa cutting board?


MTC Kitchen supply and they are having a 20% off sale right now.









Hasegawa FSB Wood Core Soft Polyethylene Cutting Board Brown 0.8"-1.2" ht


The wood-core of Hasegawa FSB cutting board is sterilized and covered with thick plastic layers fully and completely. Therefore wood won't be exposed except for unusual rough handling, so it's possible to keep it hygienic, and its lightweight board makes handling so easy that burden of washing...




mtckitchen.com


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## adam92 (Sep 5, 2020)

jacko9 said:


> MTC Kitchen supply and they are having a 20% off sale right now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Shipping to New Zealand almost cost more than half price of cutting board, I've been trying to search any other supplier offer cheaper price shipping but seems there's no choice.


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## jacko9 (Sep 5, 2020)

Another supplier that might be closer to you and have better shipping rates is Globalkitchen and they do have Hasegawa cutting boards;









Globalkitchen Japan | Chef's Favorite Japanese Kitchenware


Find high-quality brand items e.g. Japanese chef knives, Santoku knives, sharpeners, cookware, kitchenware and tableware. Worldwide shipping with safe and reliable delivery. Enjoy shopping with Globalkitchen Japan!




www.globalkitchenjapan.com


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## VicVox72 (Sep 5, 2020)

adam92 said:


> What do you think pros & cons between hasegawa & hi-soft?
> 
> I haved experience with asahi & hi-soft, i heard hasegawa really good, been thinking to getting one..



I am also very interested -- I have an end grain block and Hi Soft and basically do all my chopping on the Hi Soft. How does the Hasegawa compare?


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## ModRQC (Sep 5, 2020)

Funny how these things go.

I have a Boos edge grain, some cheap Teak end grain, couple of bamboos, couple of poly, one synth rubber. Poly and bamboo will definitively put fine carbons to dull pretty fast if a lot of slicing against the board occurs. If mostly raw and not so forceful impacts, as in push cutting/push slicing with just the force required to lead the edge through, I don't have much problems with bamboo vs. edge stability, and none with bamboo vs. micro-chipping. 

When I must slice proteins on my lesser surfaces, I revert back to my Diplome Gyuto. Aeb-l survives "forever" to the harshest of conditions. Also have some Victos always at the ready for the crappiest jobs.

And that story about Boos vs Boardsmith seems almost incredible to me, unless "maple" of both cases is not of the very same subspecies and had the maximal difference in hardness found between maple samples. Puzzling to say the least.

Boos edge grain is a very forgiving board even for slicing, in my experience.


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## Desert Rat (Sep 5, 2020)

MarcelNL said:


> why odd, the block was not falling apart, the knives were. Porblem might be a combination of knive hardness and thickness vs how the block behaves/was made.


Or a foreign object is in the Boos some place. Could of been imbedded in the tree or became embedded in the block after the fact.


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## Desert Rat (Sep 5, 2020)

ModRQC said:


> Funny how these things go.
> 
> I have a Boos edge grain, some cheap Teak end grain, couple of bamboos, couple of poly, one synth rubber. Poly and bamboo will definitively put fine carbons to dull pretty fast if a lot of slicing against the board occurs. If mostly raw and not so forceful impacts, as in push cutting/push slicing with just the force required to lead the edge through, I don't have much problems with bamboo vs. edge stability, and none with bamboo vs. micro-chipping.
> 
> ...


The end brain feels softer than the edge grain to me. I'm just a home cook though so don't have the experience as others here.


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## Hz_zzzzzz (Sep 5, 2020)

MarcelNL said:


> I'm thinking to make an end grain board but am torn between that and the Hasegawa, does the benefit apply cutting everything one uses in the home kitchen or is that mainy when cutting soft tissue (fish and meat)?


I cut almost everything on Hasegawa now but I occasionally use Asahi as well. Both good boards while Asahi is easier to clean and Hasegawa is softer and has less drag. For the same size, they are both cheaper than end grain boards. To me the benefit of using soft rubber boards exists mainly in chopping vegetables and scraping as those are supposed to degrade the edge most. Every one tells you to use the spine instead of edge to scrape, but with Hasegawa you can scrape using edge with no problem. If you just slice and cut with less force, I think end grain boards are soft enough to not chip the edge.


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## LostHighway (Sep 5, 2020)

adam92 said:


> What do you think pros & cons between hasegawa & hi-soft?



I have had the Hi-Soft much longer than the PE Brown Hasegawa so I'm still a bit of a novice on the Hasegawa front. The Hi-Soft is significantly softer than the PE Hasegawa, and seems, so far, more prone to cut marks and staining (it is a lighter color board). The Hi-Soft is also heavier for a given surface area than the Hasegawa. I have heard reports of Hi-Softs warping but mine has not, it is the 40cm x 30cm size, but if I buy another it will be 60cm x 30cm. There is more material thickness to work with on the Hi-Soft since it is effectively cutting surface all the way through, it should tolerate more more cycles of sanding the surface than the Hasegawa. I don't feel that I've had the Hasegawa long enough to form an opinion on knife edge wear. I have not seen chipping on my Hi-Soft, end grain cherry (_Prunis serotina, _a native North American species. Janka hardness 4,230 Newtons - significantly softer than Hard/Sugar Maple), or the PE Hasegawa.
How does the Asahi compare to the Hi-Soft?


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## Hz_zzzzzz (Sep 5, 2020)

adam92 said:


> Shipping to New Zealand almost cost more than half price of cutting board, I've been trying to search any other supplier offer cheaper price shipping but seems there's no choice.


Have you tried Knives and Stones? They are closer to new Zealand so the shipping might be easier? Hasegawa Kitchenware


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## juice (Sep 5, 2020)

Hz_zzzzzz said:


> Have you tried Knives and Stones? They are closer to new Zealand so the shipping might be easier? Hasegawa Kitchenware


It's a tough choice - a new chopping board or a new car...


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## adam92 (Sep 5, 2020)

Hz_zzzzzz said:


> Have you tried Knives and Stones? They are closer to new Zealand so the shipping might be easier? Hasegawa Kitchenware


Website said only can shipping Australia..


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## adam92 (Sep 5, 2020)

LostHighway said:


> I have had the Hi-Soft much longer than the PE Brown Hasegawa so I'm still a bit of a novice on the Hasegawa front. The Hi-Soft is significantly softer than the PE Hasegawa, and seems, so far, more prone to cut marks and staining (it is a lighter color board). The Hi-Soft is also heavier for a given surface area than the Hasegawa. I have heard reports of of Hi-Softs warping but mine has not, it is the 40cm x 30cm size, but if I buy another it will be 60cm x 30cm. There is more material thickness to work with with on the Hi-Soft since it is effectively cutting surface all the way through, it should tolerate more more cycles of sanding the surface than the Hasegawa. I don't feel that I've had the Hasegawa long enough to form an opinion on knife edge wear. I have not seen chipping on my Hi-Soft, end grain cherry (_Prunis serotina, _a native North American species. Janka hardness 4,230 Newtons - significantly softer than Hard/Sugar Maple), or the PE Hasegawa.
> How does the Asahi compare to the Hi-Soft?


Hi soft more prone to leave cut mark, softer than asahi, hi soft good for pulling method, so i said hi soft better when i cutting sashimi, asahi good for both pushing & cutting method, but is slightly harder than hi soft, edge retention is good on hi soft, better than asahi.


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## Michi (Sep 5, 2020)

adam92 said:


> Shipping to New Zealand almost cost more than half price of cutting board, I've been trying to search any other supplier offer cheaper price shipping but seems there's no choice.


Knives and Stones may be a better option:









Hasegawa Wood Core Soft Rubber Cutting Board


Hasegawa is the leading kitchenware manufacturer using anti-bacterial rubber. Brought to you by Knives and Stones, Sydney, Australia




www.knivesandstones.com.au


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## juice (Sep 5, 2020)

Michi said:


> Knives and Stones may be a better option:


Nah, they don't ship them to NZ.


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## adam92 (Sep 5, 2020)

Michi said:


> Knives and Stones may be a better option:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Only shipping Australia..


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## M1k3 (Sep 6, 2020)

@pkjames


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## adam92 (Sep 6, 2020)

I found some video comparing Asahi & Hasegawa.


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## LostHighway (Sep 6, 2020)

adam92 said:


> I found some video comparing Asahi & Hasegawa.




So the Asahi is wood core as well? I wasn't aware of that.
Does anyone know how soft the regular, not brown PE, Hasegawa is relative to the Tenryo Hi-Soft?


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## adam92 (Sep 6, 2020)

LostHighway said:


> So the Asahi is wood core as well? I wasn't aware of that.
> Does anyone know who soft the regular, not brown PE, Hasegawa is relative to the Tenryo Hi-Soft?


hasegawa have two kind, one is PE, one is wood core, i heard hasegawa softer than asahi. 
I don't think relative to tenryo, they're different company.


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## adam92 (Sep 8, 2020)

I heard hasegawa cutting board have new version, 4 layer instead of 3 layer, but biggest size is 46x26x2mm. 

3 layer offer much longer and wider sizes, anyone experience?


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## Goorackerelite (Sep 8, 2020)

Ha I get it now thanks. Anyone wanna sell me a beater stainless while I search for my next cutting board?


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## Hz_zzzzzz (Sep 8, 2020)

Goorackerelite said:


> Ha I get it now thanks. Anyone wanna sell me a beater stainless while I search for my next cutting board?


You could get a Victorinox Fibrox if you don't have one already. It's the best beater out there IMO.


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## Goorackerelite (Sep 8, 2020)

Hz_zzzzzz said:


> You could get a Victorinox Fibrox if you don't have one already. It's the best beater out there IMO.


I was hoping for something the lines of a misono ux10.


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## Goorackerelite (Sep 8, 2020)

Is that too much of a stretch? Lol


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## adam92 (Sep 11, 2020)

So i got email reply from hasegawa, FSR(3 layer) is better for professional kitchen. I gonna get one soon! Finally pull the trigger


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## Tag302 (Sep 16, 2020)

Great info on here! I have a 40x30inch poly cuttinboard that I absolutely loooove. It is so large, it almost like having a poly table. The only thing that sucks is how difficult it is to clean. I have a split sink so I cannot even fit it in...
My other smaller boards are bamboo. After reading this, they are gunna get cut up and turned into something else! Most of my knives are vintage carbon!


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