# Best wood for cutting board ao/sg knifes



## Nick112 (Jun 29, 2019)

as header, what is the consensus about best wood material for cytting boards?

For high carbon knifes, to protect the edge

Thanks


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## AT5760 (Jun 29, 2019)

I think the consensus is end-grain wood. Preferably wood with a low silica content - not teal. Hard maple, walnut, and cherry are popular.


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## CiderBear (Jun 29, 2019)

I asked Jon about this a while back. He believes that even with end-grain wood, you should pick something with a Janka hardness below 1500 or so. I find end grain walnut a bit too soft for my taste, and maple is just ugly and stains quickly. I've been very happy with my custom end-grain sapele board


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## McMan (Jun 29, 2019)

Here’s a relevant thread from a little while ago:
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/cutting-board-effect-on-sharpness.41785/


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## Nemo (Jun 29, 2019)

CiderBear said:


> I asked Jon about this a while back. He believes that even with end-grain wood, you should pick something with a Janka hardness below 1500 or so. I find end grain walnut a bit too soft for my taste, and maple is just ugly and stains quickly. I've been very happy with my custom end-grain sapele board


Softer is kinder on edges but the board will show more score marks more quickly and will probably have a shorter life.

I use an end grain board of a beautiful West Australian hardwood called jarrah. It has a Janka rating of 8.5 KN (around 1900 lbs). It is pretty kind to edges. I have seen boards of much softer woods (Tas Blackwood is Janka 6/ 1300) and much harder woods (ironbark is 14/ 3150).

Get a board made by someone who knows how to do it properly out of a wood that you like the look of.


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## Paraffin (Jun 29, 2019)

I use Hinoki boards (relatively soft, edge grain cypress) for vegetables with my good knives:

https://www.cuttingboard.com/hinoki/

On the positive side, they're easy on the knives, easy to touch up any marks by sanding, and very lightweight for carrying over to the sink for washing. They dry fast too. On the negative side, they might be prone to warping over time, but it can be minimized by making sure you wet both sides when washing. They also stain fairly easily. But they're so inexpensive compared to thick, high-end hardwood end grain boards, that it doesn't cost that much to replace. I'm still using a small and larger Hinoki board I bought 2 years ago. Just make sure you cut at no more than a 45 degree angle to the edge grain, because the wood is so soft that a sharp knife will tend to stick in the wood if you get close to the grain direction.

For raw protein I use a rubber "Hi Soft" board to keep it separate from the veg product. It's easier to sanitize for something like raw chicken. Like Hinokik it's also fairly gentle on the knives compared to hardwood. It's a common board type for sushi chefs. Easy to wash, but heavier to carry over to the sink than Hinoki boards.


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## Nemo (Jun 29, 2019)

I also use a rubber board (Ueda) for meat. Goes in the dishwasher. Easy clean.


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## bahamaroot (Jun 29, 2019)

CiderBear said:


> ...and maple is just ugly and stains quickly...


Nothing ugly about my Maple board and no problems with staining.


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## Elliot (Jun 29, 2019)

I use Hasegawa for everything ‍


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## HRC_64 (Jun 29, 2019)

Buy a good local wood and keep whatever it is used smooth.
Maple is great if you live in US/Canada, but its not globaly available tree.

Teak is full of sand (silica) and other woods can by allergenic (eg, acacia)
Bamboo is a grass and typically is cut thin and is full of glue joints (ie, hard plastic)

Edge grain is fine, but it scars faster than end-grain (so no bread knives)
NB, with he 50% off price of edge grain you can buy a sandpaper assortment
and a nice bottle of mineral oil and take better care of it...still save money.

End grain is caddilac or heirloom quality but typicall needs to be 60-70mm thick,
so the thing is a monster and not always fun to put in the sink.

Don't overlook rubber (no plastic) as some people have aluded to above,
especially for protein boards (sushi, etc included).

And consider separate boards for specific tasks like bread,
where your "bread" sword might destroy any board in short order.

Lastly, measure your sink and find a board that fits in it for cleaning.

Portability of the board and board height off the counter should not
be overlooked as factors which will impact practical usage patterns.


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## Nick112 (Jun 30, 2019)

Hi any of the brands of hi soft boards that seem more popular than other?


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## ojisan (Jun 30, 2019)

Paraffin said:


> On the positive side, they're easy on the knives, easy to touch up any marks by sanding, and very lightweight for carrying over to the sink for washing. They dry fast too.



I also love my hiniki board it's soft and feeling good but I need to mention that a hinoki board can make edges dull faster than plastic cutting boards. I still cannot believe this in my gut feeling, but a research showed that.

Neko-Yanagi and Kaya would be the best materials for cutting boards if they are available. Icho is another good option.


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 12, 2019)

CiderBear said:


> I asked Jon about this a while back. He believes that even with end-grain wood, you should pick something with a Janka hardness below 1500 or so. I find end grain walnut a bit too soft for my taste, and maple is just ugly and stains quickly. I've been very happy with my custom end-grain sapele board



Can I see the sapele board? I think that purple color is great! Is it resistant vs scratches?


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## CiderBear (Jul 12, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> Can I see the sapele board? I think that purple color is great! Is it resistant vs scratches?


Of course! It's actually not purple, more like a reddish brown. The other wood is zebra wood which is a wee bit higher on the Janka scale. I find mine quite scratch resistant, definitely much more compared to my endgrain walnut boards. However it seems to dry out faster, so I need to remember to keep sanding, applying wax, and oiling it more.

My Gengetsu, Watanabe and Toyama do dig into it if I'm pushing hard so I think the wood is still soft enough for these carbon knives. No microchipping yet either.

It took me way too long to decide on a cutting board, tbh. I don't think many woodmaking hobbyists are knife enthusiasts, so they make these people cutting boards on Etsy using crazy hard woods like bubinga, purpleheart, padauk and tigerwood. There really isn't much information on if end grain boards made from high Janka woods are safe for delicate Japanese knives either, so I'm glad I asked Jon before ordering. I hope this helps!


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 13, 2019)

CiderBear said:


> Of course! It's actually not purple, more like a reddish brown. The other wood is zebra wood which is a wee bit higher on the Janka scale. I find mine quite scratch resistant, definitely much more compared to my endgrain walnut boards. However it seems to dry out faster, so I need to remember to keep sanding, applying wax, and oiling it more.
> 
> My Gengetsu, Watanabe and Toyama do dig into it if I'm pushing hard so I think the wood is still soft enough for these carbon knives. No microchipping yet either.
> 
> It took me way too long to decide on a cutting board, tbh. I don't think many woodmaking hobbyists are knife enthusiasts, so they make these people cutting boards on Etsy using crazy hard woods like bubinga, purpleheart, padauk and tigerwood. There really isn't much information on if end grain boards made from high Janka woods are safe for delicate Japanese knives either, so I'm glad I asked Jon before ordering. I hope this helps!


Thanks a lot.
Watch do you think of a board made of zebra, sapele, walnut, maple as oak. Is a mix with great look


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## YG420 (Jul 13, 2019)

Love my cherry woood end grain board from lone star artisans/the boardsmith


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## Fynbo (Jul 13, 2019)

Beech wood is also great for cutting boards, should be easy to find where you live.
Maybe check out these guys located in Denmark, they make some really cool boards.
https://træskærebræt.dk/

P.s 
Oak is a widely used wood also, but my advice is to stay away from it, due to its open grain structure and high level of acid.


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## CiderBear (Jul 13, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> Thanks a lot.
> Watch do you think of a board made of zebra, sapele, walnut, maple as oak. Is a mix with great look



Way too busy for my taste.


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## childermass (Jul 13, 2019)

I‘m using a pear wood end grain board and enjoy it very much. The fine pore structure of the pear gives the board a nice smooth feel.


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## HRC_64 (Jul 13, 2019)

Fynbo said:


> P.s
> Oak is a widely used wood also, but my advice is to stay away from it, due to its open grain structure and high level of acid.



North american oak and the eurpean oak species are different 
IIRC i believer are best avoided in the US, but the EU species/version are OK


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## CiderBear (Jul 13, 2019)

Does the grain structure matter if you're using an end grain board anyway?

Also @childermass that sounds really interesting. Where did you get it?


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## childermass (Jul 13, 2019)

CiderBear said:


> Does the grain structure matter if you're using an end grain board anyway?
> 
> Also @childermass that sounds really interesting. Where did you get it?



I bought the board online from a german woodworker that specializes in end grain boards.

End grain can vary quite a bit for different wood species ranging from very big pores to very fine. As far as I know only fine porous woods are suitable for end grain boards as big capillaries can act like straws and suck in juices from the produce.
The finer the pores, the denser the feel of the board. Pear has very fine pores (usually only seen under higher magnification) and also irregular pore arrangement. This makes the wood feel hard and dense while retaining the benefit of an end grain board.
Not sure how it compares to other common board woods like oak or maple, but I think performance and feel will be similar.
To be honest I mainly opted for pear because of the looks [emoji4].



(I think it will need to be oiled again in the near future)


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## CiderBear (Jul 13, 2019)

@childermass oh wow, that looks really nice!


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## childermass (Jul 13, 2019)

CiderBear said:


> @childermass oh wow, that looks really nice!



Found the link to the manufacturer: https://www.schreiner-loeffler.de/hirnholzbretter.html

On the online shop page they have a table comparing the different woods also in respect as how gentle they are on the knife and it seems like oak is the clear winner here (you will have to scroll down a bit): https://www.schreiner-loeffler.de/gx/info/Hirnholzbretter.html


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## childermass (Jul 13, 2019)

childermass said:


> Found the link to the manufacturer: https://www.schreiner-loeffler.de/hirnholzbretter.html
> 
> On the online shop page they have a table comparing the different woods also in respect as how gentle they are on the knife and it seems like cherry and walnut are the clear winners here (you will have to scroll down a bit): https://www.schreiner-loeffler.de/gx/info/Hirnholzbretter.html



Sorry, meant to edit a mistake in my previous post but ended up quoting myself [emoji23]. I have misread the table and corrected my statement about oak.


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## John Loftis (Jul 14, 2019)

I would steer you towards end grain cherry. We used to make mahogany/sapele boards but they have larger wood pores and seem to be prone to cracking.

At the risk of appearing self-serving... have you seen this?
https://www.seriouseats.com/2019/07/best-wooden-cutting-boards.html


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## Cyrilix (Jul 14, 2019)

Tenryo embossed hi-soft board is pretty good. It's a little heavy but I love it for knives.


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## captaincaed (Jul 14, 2019)

I like end grain as much as the next guy, but here's my take from a woodworker's perspective - it's more prone to splitting than edge grain. As water enters the grain, the wood swells, pressing the glued joints apart. The more seams, and the more end-grain, the greater the chance for splitting. I'm sure there are remedies for this the pros use, but as a hobbyist woodworker, this is where I've seen failure most often. All anecdotal of course. 

Hinoki isn't oiled, but with hardwoods, I've had best luck making sure it's fully saturated with mineral oil, so water beads on the surface. This keeps the board as flat as possible, and reduces water penetration into the grain.

I've yet to try something in the hi-soft family, but my guess is something purpose-built for a sushi bar is probably going to give you a positive experience if you treat it right.


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## captaincaed (Jul 14, 2019)

I like Gritzer's work quite a lot. I like the article, but could wish for a more rigorous display of his results. I'd like to see a results summary like "Board A : dull after x cuts; Board B : dull after y cuts; ..." as opposed to "over or under 300." But then again, I'm a chemist so it probably says more about me than him... His comments about craftsmanship and wood selection seem to square with my experiences.


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## Paraffin (Jul 14, 2019)

captaincaed said:


> I've yet to try something in the hi-soft family, but my guess is something purpose-built for a sushi bar is probably going to give you a positive experience if you treat it right.



I use a Hi-Soft board as our raw/soft protein board for home cooking (see message above), but I wouldn't call it a general-purpose board. 

It's too soft for aggressive chopping like you might do with vegetables or more aggressive meat preparation. It works best for draw-slicing protein or other soft stuff on the board. You can restore the surface with sanding if it gets too many cut lines, but it's better just to use it for what it's designed for.

For anything more aggressive, like double Chinese cleaver chopping of pork or fish, I use a beat-up old side grain maple board. And soft edge-grain Hinoki boards for all the vegetable stuff, which is a combination of slicing and chopping.


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## captaincaed (Jul 14, 2019)

Paraffin said:


> I use a Hi-Soft board as our raw/soft protein board for home cooking (see message above), but I wouldn't call it a general-purpose board.
> 
> It's too soft for aggressive chopping like you might do with vegetables or more aggressive meat preparation.


Thank you, yes I should have said "positive experience when used for its intended purpose "


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## Michi (Jul 15, 2019)

Hasegawa is another decent option. I have one of the 5 mm Hasegawa boards (without the wooden core) for putting on top of my main cutting board when I cut meats or fish. It's light, thin, and very easy to clean in the sink. And it doesn't murder my knife edge…


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## gman (Jul 15, 2019)

i'm still that guy sticking to the unpopular opinion that edge retention is one of the least important factors in choosing a cutting board (unless of course you are talking about glass, where it is so bad that it outweighs all other considerations).

a good cutting board should be attractive to look at, feel good to cut on, present a solid and stable work surface, be easy to keep clean/sterile, resist cracking and warping, and be kind to your edge, but there are going to be some trade-offs. it's hard to find a material that is both attractive and can be sterilized, for example, and the woods that are easiest on edges tend to be more susceptible to cracking and warping...


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## Paraffin (Jul 15, 2019)

gman said:


> a good cutting board should be attractive to look at, feel good to cut on, present a solid and stable work surface, be easy to keep clean/sterile, resist cracking and warping, and be kind to your edge, but there are going to be some trade-offs. it's hard to find a material that is both attractive and can be sterilized, for example, and the woods that are easiest on edges tend to be more susceptible to cracking and warping...



There is one more factor here in deciding on board materials and dimensions. Do you like to leave a board in one place all the time and clean it there, or carry it to a sink to wash? 

Thick, heavy, end-grain boards in my experience are best used in fixed locations. My personal drift away from hardwood boards and into thin Hinoki boards and Hi-Soft is because they're so easy to carry to the sink and wash. I think I can do a better job there of making sure something like raw chicken is properly cleaned, and it's easy to swap boards in and out to avoid cross-contamination. Warping *can* be an issue with Hinoki, but they're so cheap that it's easy to replace when needed. I think the Hi-Soft board will probably last a good 10 years, the way it's going.

There are also some aesthetic concerns: the "attractive" element mentioned above, and I get that. My boards aren't very pretty. Nice end-grain boards dress up a kitchen, whereas Hinoki boards can pickup stains, even Hi-Soft rubber boards might get some stains that are hard to clean. In my home kitchen that doesn't matter. The "aesthetic" value is in the huge maple butcher block island these boards temporarily rest on when I'm cooking. I have plenty of nice wood in my kitchen aside from the cutting board.

In a different style of home kitchen, a hardwood end-grain board might be more of a centerpiece. Especially in a modernist home kitchen that's mostly granite and stainless steel.


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 16, 2019)

Sorry for my late reply. I’ll stay away from a great mix of woods and i’ll focus on a walnut vs sapele choice. I found about two table 40cm x 35cm x 5 cm made one of walnut and one of sapele. I can’t decide


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## CiderBear (Jul 16, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> Sorry for my late reply. I’ll stay away from a great mix of woods and i’ll focus on a walnut vs sapele choice. I found about two table 40cm x 35cm x 5 cm made one of walnut and one of sapele. I can’t decide



Get both, donate the one you don't like to me 

Personally, I have found that my sapele board is more scratch resistant than my walnut boards (duh, from the higher hardness). The walnut boards were fine when I used cheaper knives, but my J knives kept digging into them and it started to become really annoying, so I had to look for a harder wood.​


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 16, 2019)

CiderBear said:


> Get both, donate the one you don't like to me
> 
> Personally, I have found that my sapele board is more scratch resistant than my walnut boards (duh, from the higher hardness). The walnut boards were fine when I used cheaper knives, but my J knives kept digging into them and it started to become really annoying, so I had to look for a harder wood.​



Ahahah I love the sapele when is not so dark but I love the walnut when is really dark. I can’t decide


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## khashy (Jul 16, 2019)

If I’m reading the OP’s first post correctly, Edge retention is the main goal; 

If that is in fact the case, I’ve not experienced a more edge friendly board than Aomori Hiba. 

It is incredibly kind to the cutting edge and it smells absolutely beautiful when you get it wet. 

I find Aomori Hiba to be more edge friendly to the one Hinoki board I have.

You’ll find lots of info about Aomori Hiba but essentially a slow growing type of cypress which is used in building temples, pagodas and shrines.

It is meant to have anti bacterial properties and repel pests - apparently.

Unlike Hinoki, the only Aomori Hiba boards I have been able to find are made from a single piece of wood.

Biggest downside of it is the size - because it’s a single piece of wood, the width is restricted to the diameter of the tree trunk.

I have been told that the largest pieces are reserved for above mentioned construction purposes and not for cutting boards.

I have managed to source a large Hiba board finally, however it is not made from a single piece (and cost an arm and a leg)


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## Bert2368 (Jul 16, 2019)

End grain hard maple (Acer saccharum) has a pretty good reputation for cutting boards in North America.

I have seen quite a few maple boards wrecked by inattention to keeping them properly oiled, leaving them set upon on a wet surface/in a wet sink overnight or otherwise warping/splitting/delamination of these boards via changes in moisture content.

One of the claimed benefits for the "baked" maple I experimented with last winter is a decrease in moisture absorption and a reduction in the related dimensional instability.

https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/...handle-the-blade-will-come.41308/#post-610097

Anyone tried to make an end grain board of heat treated hard maple?

Still crazy busy with my day job, will be a couple of months before I have time to play with this.


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 17, 2019)

Last question before I make the order. Is it better with or without feet? I like the double side use without feet but I like the stability with them.
The woods will be walnut or sapele


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## HRC_64 (Jul 17, 2019)

Ultimately its a personal call...and depends a bit on your countertops
and whether you plan to keep the board in 1 place all the time, etc...
its alot harder to store a board on its side with feet, for example.

Generally I'd probably skip feet on small to mid size boards,
and include them on large boards likely to stay in one place.


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## HRC_64 (Jul 17, 2019)

Consider each side you use needs sanding/oiling etc also
so a larger board is maybe better used 1 side kept perfect.

Smaller board spread the wear and maintenance still
is not so bad because combined surface is smaller.

Lastly, you Probably want to use a side-towel (under your board) if you don't have feet, 
...if you hate the idea of this, maybe consider feet also...etc


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## gstriftos (Jul 17, 2019)

Or maybe some anti skid matt? I found it to be the most secure solution in all surfaces.


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## Michi (Jul 17, 2019)

I use a piece of anti-slip mat under my boards. Available at camping stores or eBay for next to nothing.


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## CiderBear (Jul 17, 2019)

I like mine with feet and without the juice groove.


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## Bert2368 (Jul 17, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> Is it better with or without feet? I like the double side use without feet but I like the stability with them.



I use a a cheap piece of rubberized mesh drawer liner as an anti skid mat. I DO like to be able to use both sides of a board.

I have learned the hard way NOT to just leave the clean board on the anti skid mesh sitting on counter top overnight/between uses, a fair amount of water can be lurking in the mesh if some was spilled on counter & the moisture will warp the board.


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## parbaked (Jul 17, 2019)

I like feet if you plan to leave the board out on the counter and no feet if you put the board away after cleaning.


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## Michi (Jul 17, 2019)

Bert2368 said:


> a fair amount of water can be lurking in the mesh if some was spilled on counter & the moisture will warp the board.


With my quite large board (60 cm x 52 cm), I have a piece of non-slip mat underneath that is quite a bit smaller than the board, around 40 cm x 30 cm, so there is a 10 cm wide strip around the perimeter of board without the mat.

If there is a minor spill, the liquid doesn't reach the mat. If there is a major spill, I know about it anyway and can make sure that things underneath are properly dried.


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## Bert2368 (Jul 18, 2019)

Michi said:


> If there is a major spill, I know about it anyway and can make sure that things underneath a properly dried.



A good scenario- I am frankly envious of you.

Regrettably, I don't have continuous on site control/habitation at either of my two primary cooking sites. It makes me a bit crazy at times... Because other people can do "interesting" things in my kitchen(s) while I'm gone for a day or a week. Or a couple of weeks! It's to the point where I stash my better knives and leave out the beaters when I must go out to do a job or visit factories in China, etc.

I need to get some alternate, "sacrificial grade" cutting boards to leave out when I'm not around too!

And you wouldn't BELIEVE what happens to my shop tools when I'm out of sight (off site?) sometimes.


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## Michi (Jul 18, 2019)

Bert2368 said:


> And you wouldn't BELIEVE what happens to my shop tools when I'm out of sight (off site?) sometimes.


I feel for you…


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## Marek07 (Jul 18, 2019)

I have two 60x40cm boards and both sit on trolleys. I prefer no feet as they are turned on a weekly basis. Surface is well scrubbed and allowed to dry, then oil or board butter is applied before its flipped over and that side has a week off from kitchen duties. My Larchwood board has ~clocked up around 35 years of service. A new Tasmanian Blackwood board has just arrived to take over most of the workload. 

Edit: I thought this Janka hardness chart might be of interest - especially those in Oz. Choppa Block make very nice boards and are happy to customize to your needs.
https://www.choppablock.com.au/assets/choppa-block---a0-chop-o-meter---additional.pdf


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 18, 2019)

Thanks for all the help. I will buy a board around 40(45)x35 cm and about 5cm thick. I use it on the countertop and then I store it in a dedicated drawer in the kitchen. I know that you have to oil also the side you don’t use because the risk of warp but I don’t have priblem to oil both sides every time. It’a a tough decision about feet


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## Michi (Jul 18, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> It’a a tough decision about feet


Suggestion: buy one without feet first and see how you go. If you feel you want feet, you can easily add them later, but you can't do the opposite without leaving holes behind…


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## Bert2368 (Jul 18, 2019)

Consider a mix of bees wax and oil for your board, more durable than just oil in my experience.

See here:

http://www.theboardsmith.com/product/board-butter-2/


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 18, 2019)

Michi said:


> Suggestion: buy one without feet first and see how you go. If you feel you want feet, you can easily add them later, but you can't do the opposite without leaving holes behind…


This is a nice tip. Thanks usually I use a cheap ikea board without feet but with a nice one I don’t have experience


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 18, 2019)

Bert2368 said:


> Consider a mix of bees wax and oil for your board, more durable than just oil in my experience.
> 
> See here:
> 
> http://www.theboardsmith.com/product/board-butter-2/


I have both thanks


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## Michi (Jul 18, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> This is a nice tip. Thanks usually I use a cheap ikea board without feet but with a nice one I don’t have experience


My personal preference is to not have feet. Being able to flip a board over is useful, IMO. On the other hand, once a board gets large and heavy enough, you probably don't want to flip it over, in which case it might as well have feet (assuming you don't mind the added height).

In my opinion, the anti-slip mat is a good solution because it, in effect, provides "removable feet".


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 18, 2019)

I love this one here. Small but I think is enough

https://etsy.me/2SnYto9


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## Marek07 (Jul 18, 2019)

Michi said:


> Suggestion: buy one without feet first and see how you go. If you feel you want feet, you can easily add them later, but you can't do the opposite without leaving holes behind…


Good suggestion Michi!

BTW, my new board came supplied with self-adhesive silicone feet. These would be a better solution than screwing feet into the board.


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## Michi (Jul 18, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> I love this one here.


Given the size, I'd use it without feet. You may find that you don't even need an anti-slip mat, depending on your benchtop surface.


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 18, 2019)

Michi said:


> Given the size, I'd use it without feet. You may find that you don't even need an anti-slip mat, depending on your benchtop surface.


Do you think is enough for general use? I don’t want a too much big board that is uncomfortable to move and store


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## Michi (Jul 18, 2019)

Spadazzo88 said:


> Do you think is enough for general use? I don’t want a too much big board that is uncomfortable to move and store


Impossible to tell without seeing your kitchen and how you cook  It's a decent size. Just compare to the cutting board you have now. If you are happy with that size and the new is at least as large, you won't be disappointed.

Keep in mind that area goes up as the square of the lengths of the sides, so a fairly small increment in length and width adds more real estate than you would intuitively expect. for what it's worth, the board you linked to is pretty generous, in my opinion. Larger than that gets into truly big (and heavy) territory.


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## JLaz (Jul 18, 2019)

I'd like to give another recommendation for Hasegawa boards. I have the wooden core board and it keeps flat, lighter than solid plastic or thick boards and is generally easy to clean. The textured surface is so nice to work on and even very thin edges dont dig into it as much compared with endgrain wood. The only downside for these boards is that you cant sand and refinish the surface like with some solid plastic and wood boards so I only reserve it for delicate cutting tasks.


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 18, 2019)

Michi said:


> Impossible to tell without seeing your kitchen and how you cook  It's a decent size. Just compare to the cutting board you have now. If you are happy with that size and the new is at least as large, you won't be disappointed.
> 
> Keep in mind that area goes up as the square of the lengths of the sides, so a fairly small increment in length and width adds more real estate than you would intuitively expect. for what it's worth, the board you linked to is pretty generous, in my opinion. Larger than that gets into truly big (and heavy) territory.



Thanks I really appreciate your help. My actual board is 50x35 is a little bit bigger but is way too much I think for me


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## bahamaroot (Jul 19, 2019)

Only one name in cutting boards.


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## Spadazzo88 (Jul 20, 2019)

Thanx to all, because of you I finally ordered my first high end board made of walnut.


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## Lazyboy (Jul 20, 2019)

bahamaroot said:


> Only one name in cutting boards.



Yep, it's in Russian .... 

https://mtmwood.com/en/mtmwood.php


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## adam92 (Oct 18, 2019)

JLaz said:


> I'd like to give another recommendation for Hasegawa boards. I have the wooden core board and it keeps flat, lighter than solid plastic or thick boards and is generally easy to clean. The textured surface is so nice to work on and even very thin edges dont dig into it as much compared with endgrain wood. The only downside for these boards is that you cant sand and refinish the surface like with some solid plastic and wood boards so I only reserve it for delicate cutting tasks.


Do you cut vege likes spring onion or chives on hasegawa or you prefer not to cut?

I'm thinking to get one hasegawa, currently using korin brand hi-soft.


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## Nick112 (Oct 19, 2019)

I just recently bought a hasegawa, since it was the only brand I found in Eu to avoid customs vat a high freight costs. I use mine for meat, fish, vegetables and tomatoes and stuff, more or less everything so far. I would like to try the Korin hi soft but shipping is to high to Eu


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## Spadazzo88 (Oct 19, 2019)

Nick112 said:


> I just recently bought a hasegawa, since it was the only brand I found in Eu to avoid customs vat a high freight costs. I use mine for meat, fish, vegetables and tomatoes and stuff, more or less everything so far. I would like to try the Korin hi soft but shipping is to high to Eu


Which one you take?


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## adam92 (Oct 19, 2019)

Nick112 said:


> I just recently bought a hasegawa, since it was the only brand I found in Eu to avoid customs vat a high freight costs. I use mine for meat, fish, vegetables and tomatoes and stuff, more or less everything so far. I would like to try the Korin hi soft but shipping is to high to Eu


I'm currently using hi-soft cutting board from korin. at the first very good, but not good for too much push cutting as the edge scratch into the cutting board &,very hard to get rid off.

My master using Asahi from korin.

I feel much better than mine.


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## Nick112 (Oct 20, 2019)

I bought the smallest 39x26 cm just to try the waters. Seems like different opinions which brand is the best. Anyone knows which cutting black boards that show in the netflix 42g?


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